Routes in Lindfield Rocks

Left of 'Kim's Arete' is an obvious... ahem... crease. Knock yourself out

Straight up the arete to the right of the undercling

Right hand on the incut crimp, grab small sidepull for left and desperately up

aka Turkey Route. A must-do up the left hand side of the wall with a slight right-left deviation high up.

The best problem on this wall. From the wide corner crack traverse left keeping below the roof to finish at or near the crack.

Traverses the block (Hermit's Cave) right-to-left staying just below the top

Hold the obvious round pocket with your left hand and reach up to a sloper and nubin then up.

Left to right traverse via easiest sequence available (mid height under the roof).

Link start of Pipe Dreams into Big Wednesday.

Just right of the tree. Grab two small crimps and crank on up

Between 'The Arete' and The Tourist Route, a thin wall above two pockets with a well worn edge. Don't stray offline.

Right hand in the big sidepull pocket, feet up high and dyno for the top.

The arete

Hard left-to-right traverse staying below the reasonable head-height line. Highly unlikely to have ever had a 2nd ascent as Pete did a very eliminate method and very undergraded.

Same as '12' except both aretes are off.

Start as for '8', on the edges. traverse right into the start of '5' and up.

Start on the right, move onto the arete itself, then back on the right.

Excellent little problem, up the obvious hanging crack. Finger lock or face climb - fun either way.

Starting in the layback flake, traverse left keeping feet low to the arete.

Desperate sit start up the crack. Tape up, and use some crimps near the top for this grade. May not be doable pure.

Start in pocket on red streak and 2-finger pocket to the left of that. Go directly up.

The most common start for the Lindfield Traverse is 3. Move left staying low. Move slightly higher at the arete for the second section of the traverse.

From the little arete, traverse right via the flared crack.

Start in the two leftmost pockets and go dynamically up. Large break and arete are off.

Traverse the little wall from right to left. Stay below the top. This is the hard extreme right hand start of The Lindfield Traverse Complet.

The traverse around the arete from right to left, keeping low, is a good problem in its own right.

To the right of 'She-Oak Crack' is a thin seam. Climb it.

Lip Traverse from the obvious horizontal break right of the roof all the way along the lip to finish in the wide corner crack.

Go straight up the thin face. Both aretes are in, holds on the face past the arete to the right are off, and the cliff to the left of the gap is off.

To the left of traverse #1's block is a small buttress. Climb this directly without using the sides.

Thin moves up the black wall just left of the arete.

As the name suggests, the diagonal crack system leading out of the start of 'She-Oak Crack'.

Start just right of the small crack, trend right

Starts by underclinging a large flake just right of the big corner crack. Right to a large pocket on the arete and then up.

Start matched in the break below the two pockets, go directly up.

On the wall proper, layback the right arete.

High, thin, airy, scary.

Hard sit start variant on 'Orange Arete'

Thin seam on the right hand side of the wall.

Use the large edge to the right of the arete, move past a pocket and rail to top.

Contrived. Start: Undercling the large flake and go straight up to a match with both hands in the thin break.

Behind 1: Cave start, traverse left, gaston, undercling then go up jugs

Undercling the breaks to the left of 4, and either crimp or dyno to glory.

The left side of the black wall. Still thin but apparently jug heaven compared to '2'.

Starts high at the end of The Downclimb Slab. Drop down to the middle of the wall near problem 4 - feet on the obvious horizontal break. At the left hand end pop onto the shelf and scramble onto Abseil Wall without touching the ground or using the tree.

Eliminate all face holds and climb the seam by finger-locking and a tips layback

A rightward Traverse from '5 - Bum Crack' around the boulder avoiding the big foot ledge.

The corner crack.

OPEN PROJECT. To the left of 2, left arete. Not sure if doable or a route. Undercling, up to the rail, kneebar, right side pull until a pocket, slopers to top out

1/2m to the right of the obvious discontinuous crack feature is a small pocket. Off this to very crimpy stuff above.

Wide corner crack to small roof.

The easiest way across is to bridge across the back of the gully and traverse high on the wall. The hard way is to stay low and link Corals with '16'.

Fierce little ironstone crimps just left of the seam.

Start low on good edges to the left of '5 - Bum Crack'. Head up on the right hand edges.

Centre of the wall, there's an old (ex?) carrot and a drilled pocket. Up and right from here.

Start in the corner jug, move to left hand undercling/jug STRAIGHT TO THE EDGE, rock up and out

Crimpy stuff to the left of Discontinuous Crack.

Middle of the wall left of '4 - Corner Crack' on small crimps.

A tough part of The Lindfield Traverse Complet. Undercut sandy footholds are off.

Left hand sloper, right hand knifeblade. Grit your teeth and pull. Knifeblade is bigger than it used to be!

Start low and head up on the left hand edges.

As for '5', but haul up left on slightly less dodgy holds.

Go down towards the right of the trail boulders and follow the wall. Start on the long diagonal flat surface (about stomach/chest height) on the middle of the boulder. Go straight up top out right above the start holds. Clean as much as possible. Put up more routes around this area if possible.

It's a crack so try to jam - if you can't jam you can use the holds on either side of the crack.

Climbs the curving feature to the left till it runs out, then crimps on the right face

Classic bit of the traverse. Crux is near the arete, and its easier to go low at the arete.

Hard Men do a higher level traverse using good crimpers near the top.

Right hand sloper, up on small holds. Sidepull to the left is off.

Grab the undercling (a bit harder now that its broken), dyno to the rail and finish via a fin.

Crack. Yuck?

As if any more classics could be found on the glorious Kenny Boulder! From common undercling start, trend up and across slopers to same exit as "13" on left of boulder when looking at problem.

Left of the big crack, on positive edges and pockets. High; bolts on top.

The Wide Crack

Centre of the wall, aiming for the ironstone "horseshoe' crimps high in the middle. Very, very good.

Start at '1', walk the ledge and then scramble down from the ledge and traverse the wall at low height. Move around the Orange Arete to a short wall.

Just right of the crack. Plenty pockets and edges

Start just left of the undercling, laying away on two small pockets about 1m apart

Flake system through the roof.

Freedom Day's burlier older brother, and a problem of truly quality moves. Same start and exit, but the right arete is off. Gain the sloper and hang on for a ride! (In the grey area of V6/7)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OdfaJS9gpo

The left arete of Walkdown Wall. High; bolts on top.

To the left of Walkdown Wall is a slabby wall often used as a descent

Up the middle of the slabby wall. Commonly used as a descent route.

Flake system just right of the arete

Step across the descent gully to The Small Blank Wall, downclimb The Offwidth then traverse low across the wall to the top of The Golden Triangle and step across to The Overhang. This is probably the crux of The Lindfield Traverse.

Alternatively traverse high across The Blank Wall and drop down at the end which is much easier.

The layback crack. Layback on its right side or jam it.

Eliminate the squarish horn, smeary + desperate

Light coloured scoop further left of '8'. Standing start trending left.

No hands problem: two very high steps straight up the middle of the path side.

Hands-free up the trackside staircase, doubles as descent route

The juggy arete with an awkward start on the left hand side