Routes as trad in Middle Cove

Start: Right end of cliff below bollard-like lump of rock. DBB

Start: 2m L of Ept

Start: 1m L of 'Rusted Iron', between boulder and wall. DBB.

Up to mantelshelf then up slab.

Start: Obvious crack L of PYMP4. DBB.

Go up the crack.

Start: 1m L of GFH. Good gear and takes wires well. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort. Toprope/lower-off anchor at top

Start: Up crack 2m L 'Cold Chisel'.

Start: Up undercut crack 2m L 'Hardware Lane'.

Up to the flake and following it. Caution when placing pro in the vertical crack. Shared lower offs with Balance and Crimp.

The crack left of Clingwrapper.

Shared lower offs with Clingwrapper.

Corner crack, exiting via wall to left, or clean out the leaf litter and go Over The Top. Gritty either way.

No doubt done before.

Up cave to full body rest on sandy ledge, turn out to jam crack, then big moves up the lichen layback. Beware the chockstone that goes "boomp" and any other loose bits.