Routes in Utopia

Project by Simon Vaughan

Make the first break without to many problems then try to get established on the middle section that has a worrying lack of holds. Hard pulls to a great break and then a brilliant top section.

The obvious crack splitting this wall. Mixed route with trad gear needed down low, bolts up higher to anchors.

Technical climbing packed into a short route

Start: Just right around the arete then takes line of bolts out left

Crux off the ground to hard move high

Hard pulls at the start and finicky at the top

Pump up your guns and traverse out left under the roof to anchors around the nose and over the lip

Start: From the anchors of Five o'clock shadow continue steeply thru the roof

Start: Just right of Five o'clock shadow, slab moves increasing with difficulty with height

Start: At the vague corner go up the left hand side of flake

Start: 2 mtrs right of "August Night" and punch up thru the bulge

Up the arete 3 bolts to lower off

Start: Off block 3 metres left of Bushwacked

Start 3m left of the obvious crack. Climb to the ledge, then the technical slab and then steeper ground to join the crack to anchors of Crack, Back n Sack.

Fine climb with deceptive crux

The diagonal line in the middle of leaning wall. Start from the ledge gained via the rope. Punchy, technical and sustained climbing to gain the pebbly band, long draw required there, and a little sting at the end.

Punchy bouldery start following bolts that trend right

Start: In the cave under the end of the left leaning crack.

Nice climbing marred only by a little sand

Start: Start at the sandy cave at the base of the little corner.

Like lifting mini bar fridges

Could be a little harder if your technique is lacking (like mine!) Starts up left leaning crack to join crash and burn at three quarter hieght

Thin and balancy climbing just left of arête. Start on the crack and move right to a big move after the 3rd bolt then awesome climbing to the top.

Start: The middle line on the huge flake, just right of a massive burnt tree halfway up cliff

Technical start leads to an easing mid section, milk the rest as the top gets very steep

Start: Start off the block and climb the blunt flake to begin.

Start: Up the right hand side of mega flake

Great climb fun all the way

Thin climbing with a technical crux. Start: 15 mtrs down from the chimney, up a little slab apron. Follow the line of bolts that head left and on to an easier flake.

The obvious extension to HAN to C9 anchors. How else to you get ur draws off C9 at the EOTD.

Sharpen up your finger nails for this one, great moves on super rock

Start: 3 mtrs left of crack, as for Broken Bishop then take the right line of bolts. Leave your office hands at home for this one!

Start just left of 'Smash and Grab' and up the crack and grey streak.

Climbs the flake that leads to another flake, that leads to another flake!

Start: At the eastern end of the wall, just left of the crack, shares Keyboard Bruises anchors

A vertical warm up with a hardish start and nice crux

Dirty, dirty, dirty route; but great fun moves.

Will get better with a few good kickings.

Balance up and control that barn dooring, grit style.

Start: Start in the entrance of the Hells Mouth Decent gully.

First Climb on the wall once you exit the Hells Mouth Zorn.

Easy moves up flake then pull down hard for the rest

Start: Middle of wall up the obvious left leaning flake

Fun jugging between great holds

Start: 2 mtrs right of 'Konnichi Wa', jump or use cheat rock

Harder start than salute but easier finish

Start: 2 mtrs right of Salut

Pull hard past the first bulges and then commit to hard moves to big jugs.

Don't fall from the top easy section!

Start: Last route on the 'Wave Wall'.

Starts off a ledge gained by batmaning up the fixed rope. The corner behind the big tree.

Pumpy start and a little techo finish

Start: Same as Peas in pod but trends left along large flake

Pumpy then just pumpy

Start: Same as Peas in pod but climbs left hand side of overhanging arete, some weak scallywags have found an option of McDougling out left and making the climb a little easier. Your choice!

Steep and pumpy start and crimpy techo finish

Start: At the leaning arete

Eat your spinach for this one, short and steep on great rock.

Start: 3 mtrs right of two peas. Shares same start as Four and Twenty. Up two bolts then goes left to anchors over the lip

Punchy climbing all the way

Start: Same as Blind mice but trends slightly right to hard mantle, anchors set back over the top