Routes in Cassia Cliffs

Unbolted exposed arete. Easy to bolt, but will be hard to climb. Someone needs to put some bolts in here, looks great !

Bring doubles in small camalots up to #0.75 , and singles up to #3. No wires required however you could probably find some. Starts at base of wall on right and climbs into twin crack system via Ubolts then steep pumpy sport climbing on gear. Very well protected when the moves get tough and a total pumper at the end, Make sure you save a #1 for last break and don't bail out left , direct to flake then loweroffs. Some extendable draws help for double placements in breaks on headwall.

Up obvious corner to flake system and some kind of shenanigans above

The three tiered open book corner sporting a thin crack. Has some gear left in it, it's not booty.

Something easy and easy to setup a top rope via rungs. Many gear placements, however, watch for any loose blocks. The anchor of this route is next to the rungs, ideal for close explanation of how to tie off on an anchor for first timers rather than yelling from the ground.

Start up corner and traverse out right. When the ledge ends go straight up through caves to lower off at top. medium wires, BD cams to #3, double the small ones. A really big sling (4ft+) is optional.

The crack starting at the little corner 4 meters right of SC. Still needs cleaning.

3m right of DOD starting off the vegetated ledge. Great climbing up this steep face with a short but cracker crux.

Line of bolts right of Pebble Rebel.

Long gently overhanging line on FHs , up juggy grey rock to a technical crux in middle then steep and pumpy to the loweroff. The route has one FH over the top should you use it to top out.

He says he cant but its the belief he can.

Start about 4m left of SC. Mega for the first 5 bolts up to break. Heave over the bulge and continue up to lower offs. For the full tick, link into the last few bolts on 'Shark Chats'

Start on the ledge midway up the wall. Easier the higher you get.

Starts half way up ramp left of S.F , stickclip first bolt then long line up middle of wall with a thin crux down low and a rewarding finish. A brilliant route.

Techy slab to powerful crux with sustained top half. Climbs up out left of Anchor. Anchor has been positioned to the right for ease of cleaning and to prevent rope drag.

As per 'Spandula' for 2 bolts, then head slightly right and directly up the wall. A couple of different ways to do the top section. Easy to top out (tree belay) or lower off.

From the start of SMBI21 climb the crack until over the rooflet and continue left onto the wall. Up the easy corner to the ledge and anchors.

Up the crack and fight the pump through reachy moves to the anchor (18ish to black slab before overhang)

Engaging moves on awesome grey rock

Shared start with 'Long like Gino' Thoroughly enjoyable slab leading to an even better steep face. A good rap-in / top-out option.

Long sustained pumper! With around 4 crux sections. Looses a star due to some questionable rock but only adds to the excitement. Should be 3 stars!

Directly up the awesome grey rock. Start on a little platform (clip in) and belay down on the track near tree.

Starts a few meters to the right of 'Spandula' , a long face trending right. As it is its a great journey out and up. Venture out across technical face to arete. Lower-off under large roof.

Feel good moves with a punchy crux finale.

First climb as you approach from the walk in. Climb the left side of a prominent arete, bolted perfectly to give the option of arete or face on left. Both options climb well with plenty of delicate climbing.

The long chimney/face trending right. Clamber up to start via two rungs. Lots of bolts to lower-off. A good walk-off / rap-in option

On upper tier at big log. Slab to steepening wall

Stickclip from base of yellow seam. Big moves between small holds to bigger moves between bigger holds including a wild dyno. Probably 28 but fantastic conditions on the send. A coldshut halfway assists cleaning. Extend a few draws around the middle.

Start down low at thin wall to gain edge of slab then up arête.

Start at the next bolt right of FYAI24. Traverse right at the start to the repaired hold and onto the ledge. From the ledge climb the wall until an escape right can be made to the base of the easy corner. Up the corner to the ledge and lower offs.

Short crack to spectacular orange line above.

Thin and sequency under vertical finger shredding with a lot of small edges and micro foot holds. Start at the first bolt left of the crack of SMBI21. Bouldery start to gain the ledge on the left. From the ledge head straight up the line of bolts to the ledge in the middle of the wall and a pair of lower off anchors. Near the top it is permitted to go right to the arete then up onto the ledge, but it really doesn't matter by then.

Arete with crack start on the left of shark chats.

Start 10 meters left of the arete. A climb for those who can manage grade 19 sequences piled one on top of the other. Hard moves past the first two bolts. Three no hands rests and an exciting crunchy yellow bit in the middle. Will fall easy to the crushers but is technical to all others.

Start 3 meters right of the arete of the large wall left of Phanged Out Ford, at thin crack. Many no hands rest ledges on the way up. Keep trusting the holds until they snap off. Easy for the grade, perhaps?

Left hand side of the big wall. Layback free standing pillar, then jug up the long wall.

Wall right of TFBOCC . Thin start up the first few bolts heading left to the cave. Thin out of the cave and a few thin moves before it gives up rolls over and plays dead to the top.

Left arete of wall 4 meters left of Project 16

Up 3m face at east end of cave into cave. Route was set to be climbed as a roof from second bolt for 15m then rest at base of 15m face before the final hurl.

The greatest invention of humankind to date. What will man think of next. Line of bolts right of Tilt Tre. Has a rest ledge at the top and a bunch of jugs thru the rest of the climb.

Up flake to big pocket move then traverse to right arette of big wall. Hard , scary and sometimes contrived. First ascent went direct to first arete bolt rather than further right , less out of ethic but more from fear of choss and runout , though all the falls are clean. There is an obvious squat rest on an arete jug higher up , however the route heads back left into steep terain after this. Might be 26 by Nowra standards.

Wall left of HP11

Route right of Teledildonics. Nice climbing on some great rock.

2m left of little pebble. Start up short punchy corner onto ledge, up face on good crimps and pockets onto fun balancey slab moves

Wall right of HP11

Thin finger crack and brittle wall leading to the ledge atop the big flake. Easy up the crack with a few crack like moves. Bridge the flake and the wall until the last minute then slap for the ledge before the holds break off.

Pumper! Follow the obvious features to the 5th bolt, then traverse right to the arete and up to DRB's. (Stick clip the first bolt).

Shared start, then move left with an exciting move up high.

Slab 3 meters right of the thin bolted crack on the left side of Car Dump Corner. A few thin holds lead up the low angle slab to the ledge.

Jake Proj

Small holds on awesome rock to bigger holds and big moves up exciting head wall.

Start two meters right of Really Dumb on the short wall leading to a ledge. A burly start leads to some technical face climbing higher.

Awesomely long crimp sequence up to steep finish.

Up the thin dark wall. No hard moves, just sustained from start to finish.

Long line of bolts three meters right of Sexableflex. Thin in the bottom section. Cruise thru the middle. Take care when bouncing off the ledge up top not to dent the rock.

Rad technical sequence to the mini ledge then awesome crank sequence to the big ledge and up complimentary second pitch (around grade 18) to the top.

Line of bolts 2 meters right of Tequila Sunrise. Four or five move sequences of 18 followed by a single grade 20. Climbs the wall until about halfway when it begins to use the arete and some holds around the arete. Contrived you may say but i don't care. You are always on the left side of the arete until the obvious big hole at the top where it joins into Faking Clever and continues to its own anchors.

Up through techy slab then left traverse, straight up through big moves, then left to pumpy finish above rungs.

5m left of ‘SL’ Rapped a couple of times, but too hard for fat bundy. will be awesome when bolted

Half drilled wall on the next buttress right of Faking Clever. Start just left of cave. Most bolts drilled then my petrol drill conked out!! Piece of antiquated shit.

Great climbing to even greater climbing, moving through side pulls to last bolt.

Great sustained climbing up a nice line. Takes the right leaning crack/seam to anchors under the block.

Up corner crack as for the Pussy Stretcher. At the cave walk left to bypass pussy stretcher crux and up to the anchor of BS&BS.

Small flakes up the consistently overhanging wall. Looks about grade 1 million ! Closed Project until 2023

Start on Nebuchadnezzar for 2 bolts step left onto face traversing through Where Am I to 3m flake and up. For ease of cleaning rather than tie in at Dream Trader anchor, it is best to strip it on lead and down climb traverse right to tie in and lower off Where Am I anchor.

Start as for 'Where Did I come From' first bolt only and climb sstraight up through impossible looking moves.

Hard crimpy crux to fabulous sustained headwall.

The brown streak a few meters left of the main corner. Climb onto the sloping ledge then up the gently overhanging face.

Don't be intimidated by the offwidth, it climbs easily as a face route.

Line of bolts up the slab just right of the blunt arete. Easy slabbing into balancey moves up top

Pumpy and engaging. Stickclip first bolt and start 2m left of corner (Abednego). Move to crack for a few moves between 4th & 5th bolt.

Straight up the longest part of the separated wall right of "Shove Off Wall"[1889284953]. Corner start, pockets up and across to arête, rails for the fin.

Starts up on block in corner.. Lean out to clip bolt.. Small lower crux to stance then a funky move and jugs to the top..

Will be the new warm up at the crag

An amazing route with a tough crux sequence. Same start as Shadrach but branches right

The left hand of two lines on the right wall of the major corner. Climb the line straight up just right of the corner.

A novelty run out route not for bumbalies. Climb past first bolt to cave. Best to stick clip second bolt from inside cave until route is trafficked. Easier to climb right side of cave and traverse lip of cave to arette then climb up.

Shared start with Sunshine Diplomacy then takes the right line with crack and seam.

Climb the slab to a reachy clip (possibly aided with a short rope) through pockets to overhang and top of cliff.

On the face a few meters left of Dereliction of Duty. Climb the seam to the little ledge, careful leaving the ledge, sustained and interesting climbing trending left to arete. Jugs to top.

Crimpy start left of 'Spandula' for 3 bolts, then veer right crossing 'Spandula' at the 4 FH. Continue up the grey streak to the break and up the awesome head wall.

A chance to combine technique and power without really trying to hard. Second and third clip can feel awkwardly far right on first go yet seemingly perfect second go.

An old unknown route with fixed hangers, since removed and fixed with rings and a lower off. Start by climbing a little arete to the vegetated ledge 1m right of PCTS. Thin crimping which relents higher up on this unlikely looking face.

Takes the seam a few meters left of the major corner and right of MM. Start; In the little corner and follow the seam to anchors..

Climb start of Where Am I for 3 bolts then traverse left into Dream Trader.

The crack/seam a few meters right of Shark Chats. Start as for SC, stepping right after the 2nd fixed hanger. Follow the crack trending left up the headwall to anchors.

Wall to the right of the corner. Climbs free standing pillar on the right side.

Climb start of filthy off width for two bolts then traverse left into Where Am I. Can be best to climb Dream Trader first and travrse right at anchor to Where Am I anchor and rap down to see moves.

Line of bolts left of the arete. Start at the crack. Jam and layback crack until you can get to the camping ledge, then up many bolts to top. Comfortable no hands rest under the crux.

Line of bolts right of Jake's 24. Great sequences of 19 to 20 leading up a long slightly off vertical wall.

Roof proj Jake west end of cave

Line of bolts right of Faking Clever. Very thin slab sequence as a crux.

First clip is third bolt for Where Did I come From, climbing a perpendicular line through it to bolt at lip of cave and up finishing on Dream Trader.