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Routes as sport in Black Snake Buttress

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 Slashin Crack

Done once as a mixed gear abomination in the very distant past. Now steel rules supreme. Don't expect to get off this one alive if you don't tie a knot in the end of your rope! Close to being the longest single pitch sports route at TJF. The crack splitting the wall 50 or so meters towards the waterfall from the Mystery Mossy Slab. Which by the way isn't a mystery. Climb the wall using the crack as a supplementary hold. Top out or lower to an anchor and lower again! Remember the knot!

FA: G Hill P Allen

Sport 38m, 15
12 Mystery Mossy Slab

The escape route (and rap in route). Mossy black slab 5m right of Black Snake. Originally had lone carrot halfway up sticking out a long way. Now has 5 very spaced rings and a rap chain. Needs a good brush down low but is climbable. This is a zero star route. thecrag.com database star allocation is stuffed.

FA: G. Hill in the 80s?

Sport 30m, 5
24 Black Snake

Major steep arête on right side of orange face. Quite unusual climbing style for 'Nowra', with lots of sideways holds and blocky edges. Start arête direct with bouldery moves past first bolt. Rest on stance then more trick moves up marbled rock to tricky crux bulge. Finish up crack.

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Mystery Mossy Slab'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

Sport 20m, 9
25 Slippery Little Snake

Excellent wall climbing straight up the face right of the major corner. Slabby start, tough move through small bulge in the middle then punch out the short roof to top of cliff jugs.

Set: Neil Monteith, 1 Aug 2014

FA: Dylan Tubaro, 9 Sep 2021

Sport 18m
21 Gale Force Nine

Bolted in the windiest day ever. Start on slab 4m right of big mossy corner. Left trending line past flakes and big pocket to join into major corner crack. Layback and stem up this surprisingly clean corner to anchors under big roof. Crack seeps after heavy rain.

FA: Neil Monteith, 3 Aug 2014

Sport 16m, 7
25 The Regular Route

Slightly overhung face just left of major corner crack. Sustained edges and pockets. 25? There is a direct finish, and an easier right version bolted.

Sport 17m, 9
The Regular Route Direct (project)

Finish direct up sandy shallow crimps. Will add a grade to the route.

Sport 18m
25 Triennial

Action packed steep arête 8m left of The Regular Route. Start off ledge (bolt belay) trending left on conglomerate band to instant exposed arete perched above void. Up technical arete on small shallow pockets and reachy jugs. Pumpy right until the very last move.

Set: Neil Monteith, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith, 3 Aug 2014

Sport 17m, 10

Showing all 8 routes.

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