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Routes as sport in Sunshine State

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Showing all 21 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Sector 1 - Descent Gully Area
14 Bunny Corner

Easy peasy. Right facing corner with a black slab on the right.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2012

Sport 17m, 5
Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
25 Blinded by the White

Stay left. Maximizes the quality rock on this wall with a big girdle across the quality pocketed white rock. Follows the left line of bolts under the roof for a couple of metres, then over powerful rooflet and keep traversing left to final magic pockets to break and lower-off. Back clean or get someone to 2nd it.

FA: Neil monteith, 2010

Sport 25m, 12
The Ape Factor - PROJECT

Blinded by the White direct finish with a really long span from good pocket to sidecling. Not yet bolted but worked on top-rope. Will be in the high 20s.

Sport 18m
25 Faux Buoux

The best route here - a New 'Nowra' classic. Pockets of every variety from start to finish. Goes all the way to the top of the cliff. This is the middle line, which has a slight leftwards traverse once over the first rooflet.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Sport 30m, 14
24 When the Wind Blows

Amazing limestone like pockets makes for some very cool climbing. Start left of hanging garden. Juggy steep start rightwards to sequency magic pockets. After these crank bulge then final pumpy headwall on large pockets and crimps. Amazing all the way.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Sport 30m, 12
24 Swiss Cheese

Easiest way up the mega pocketed wall - but still no cakewalk. Starts as for When the Wind Blows for two bolts then right past three bolts to join into Pocket Rocket for one bolt then finish out left through orange scoops and reachy finish bulge. Magnificent white undercling pockets as usual.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Sport 20m, 9
25 Pocket Rocket

Very unique for sandstone and quite sustained. Lots of great holds - the top half is French limestone like solution pockets, all facing downwards! Bouldery start over the undercut, then up the orange rock on flaky pockets to horizontal. Left and up into the perfect pockets with some incredible undercling moves to gain the steep juggy orange jugs to finish out right. Suffers from heavy seepage on one hold near the top of the route.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

Sport 20m, 9
OPEN PROJECT

Not yet bolted, but looks about 28ish.

Sport 20m
24 Steal Some Steel

Hard campus start mounting undercut, then thin moves to bigger pockets. Head right up tasty orange slots to arete. For the full tick climb past the anchors using sneaky knee-bar to higher hold on arete (anchor should have been here). Backjump to anchor.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Pocket Rocket'

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Sport 15m, 6
16 Mini Water Holes

Good warm-up climbing the first half of Water Holes and lowering off big U bolt just over the rooflet.

FA: 2010

Sport 12m
23 Water Holes

Immaculate rock and a slick slopey crux. Stem up tree for a metre to gain rock then take left line of bolts up very nice pocketed grey wall to blankness and big bolt. Sneak left to find hidden pocket, fiffle with some sketchy feet then back right to big sloper pocket. Long move then finish up orange bulge. If you lower-off the big bolt at the half-way point its a classic grade 16.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Sport 23m, 9
22 Delicious

Great face climbing on crimps and pockets. Middle line of bolts on this wall, starting as for Lost for Profit. Lower off single large u-bolt when the rock turns blank.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Sport 15m, 6
19 Lost for Profit

Black pockets to gain slab - then right line of bolts to hit left end of roof crack. Jam up corner crack and finish with powerful sloper mantle finale on gorgeous orange rock.

Start: Starts 10m right of 'Pocket Rocket' right of the big tree.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

Sport 18m, 8
20 Sun Dew

Small dark corner 2m right of Lost for Profit. At the big roof crack undercling desperately left to join into LfP for top half. Crack seeps after rain.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Sport 20m, 9
22 SunnySide Up

5m right of 'Sun Dew' and right of major corner. Boulder over the undercut, up the jugs then traverse right across steep face to punchy finish. 'Fantastic' rock.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

Sport 13m, 5
23 Heal and Toe

Short and very steep rightwards leading line just right of SunnySide Up and finishing in little cave. Power. Stickclip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Sport 10m, 5
Sector 3 - The Cave
23 Kicking Heads

Fun slab, roof and corner with nails hard undercut start. Deduct 5 grades if you pull on the first bolt. Start by teetering up giant cairn to grasp massive jug on lip of cave. Curse and thrash at lip then up pleasant polished slab to massive roof. Skirt left and around it past halfway anchor bolts (use these to clean the route). Up black jam crack corner to high anchors, Stick clipping the second bolt is recommend unless you want to give your belayer a kick in the head.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Sport 20m, 9
25 Forgot Me Knot

Awesome powerful climbing. Undercut start to steep hanging pocketed arete to arrive under roof. Swing right with difficulty to jug and rap chain.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Sport 14m, 5
26 Forgot Me Knot Extension

Thin technical climbing adding three more bolts to the original past the rap chain on the lip of the roof. Rad.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Sport 20m, 9
Sector 4 - Pearlescent Wall
25 Masterstroke

Starts on far right side of wall. Jam across horizontal then diagonally leftwards (some chossy sections of rock) to finish up sweet shallow heucos. Top half is gorgeous rock quality.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Sport 20m, 10
26 Come Out Fighting

Start as for Masterstroke and at 5th bolt go straight up past chipped pocket to gorgeous finish on polished scoops. The top half is mega classic.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2012

Sport 18m, 9

Showing all 21 routes.

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