Ascents in South Wall having Beta

Its still the same crux whether you bridge or not at the start! Felt like 24, a dyno off a gaston. Great moves.

Fell at anchors, got an eye full of dirt, couldn't c them

my first 24 redpoint

totally committing, love it

Did it on top rope, bad run out to lower off

2nd shot. The only thing that spoils it is the arete at the start. Exciting finish.

First Ascent done at night... Great Flow

ok, just glad i dont have to do it again...

I'll be back

Worked the top moves first shot. Had one go at doing it clean and couldn't make the final move. Avoiding the arete makes it way more classy.

Very hard. ESP last 1m. I think I need new shoes after this one...

Rpt. It's been a while. Cool finish once I unearthed the jug from the leaf litter

Hmm, may have discovered a short person method involving a mono.

Nearly left my teeth and testicles on this one. Not a good climb to fall on.

Great to get this crag classic. extended draw on the anchor for me,

Should have read old attempts. Short person beta involves R kneebar, L hand on 2mm crimp and r mono with left foot onto lip, then dyno to hold with R hand. Actually did move twice.

Finally after 18 years I have done this nemesis ( though with long anchor slings). Short person beta is definitely different and involves compressing a shallow mono and a 3 mm flake whilst getting feet over the lip to Dyno for arete hold. The key for me was a slanting right kneebar with left foot on arete so I could get the two tiny holds precisely but still disengage quickly.

Couldn’t finish the last sequence

There appears to be a variant of Eye Moss You that goes further left after the first 2 bolts to another DBB that look slightly older, I had a couple of goes trying the left top variant but couldn't figure out the last couple of moves to the DBB's after the 4th bolt. But managed to "onsight" (I had to downclimb after failed attempts on the left top variant) what I think was the typical Eye Moss You (Direct)

Stupid calling this 2 routes, not using the corner is crazy. The crux is exciting especially when my dyno hold had a nice rolling twig hidden away

Fun climb with a tough finish

Tricky couple moves up top! Had to have two goes. Just climb the line of least resistance at the bottom, the 'direct' seems very contrived.

too tired to pull one move.

one big move, ouch, sharp hold 2/6/04,

Quite contrived, Need long slings

broken holds. anyone see a pattern?

Got to about 3rd bolt...will try again...committing move as seconder.

Obviously bored. Interesting moves.Dirty rock.

avoided the arete on white pointer and went right. toping out was safer imo. would like to try it using the left arete next time

Had to bailout as my heal was killing me from the earlier mishap

3rd bolt to anchor is the crux. Still not sure of the beta.

found beta that took the fear out of the last bolt!

I was able to lead the climb using the anchors for swsc.

Couldn't figure out the moves between last bolt and anchors

not too hard for the grade.

hard start then trend left to BC anchors

mmm thin slabs

Steve spots another fun line!First May 2004. Better second time around!

so so thin

About 19. Gear adequate, I was just soft and preplaced it.

balancy start, will clean up well with a little more traffic.

exciting watching andy lead it

a tad soft?

Steve spots another fun line!

Excellent warm up. Move rest move rest the whole way up. Do it using the undergling thumb catch.

easier to skip the 3rd RB. 2 no hands rests

quick lap to clean.

Ok, weird holds, seem to all be facing the wrong way. A little cleaner than some other routes.