Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Trad | ||||||||
17 | ★★ Remains Of The Day | 140m, 22 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Jun 2012 | |||
Awesome! Leading the start of P3 is exciting! Led 1, 3, 4 and 5. Rob led 2. Gear required: #1 C4 top pitch 3. Single set C4 #0.3 to #2 and set BD stoppers on pitch 5. Rest is bolts. Rapped the route with 100m half rope (50m rappels) in three pitches, only just managing to link 4 and 5 with rope stretch. Linked 1 and 2 easy. Grade is a stiff 17 and pretty consistent the whole way except P5 at about 14.
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17 | ★★ Remains Of The Day - with Dan | 140m, 22 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Jul 2013 | |||
Pitches 1, 2, 3 and got rained off so rapped. Dan led 1 and 3, I led 2. Pretty sketchy first pitch in the wet.
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15 | ★★ Get Into The Groove - with dave kenny | 50m, 7 | Mt Ngungun | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Feb 2014 | |||
The second pitch is magic and on its own it is a classic, but the first pitch is pretty ordinary. The run outs might freak out new leaders. Could be done with only a set of slings to protect the first pitch (there is no gear other than the trees anyway), just clip the first bolt on P2 and stay attached to the tree to belay.
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16 | ★★ Blabbermouth | 200m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Mar 2012 | |||
Great route, good rock, nice mix of trad/sport and plenty of air. I led 1, 3, 5 and 7, Ian made short work of 2, 4, 6. Variant start is a great trad route in its own right. We went off route at top of pitch 2 and ended up on El Schorcho (21). No wonder it seemed like a very hard 16! At the third bolt I and traversed right to the right line. Pitches 4-7 are pretty chilled after the first three. I soloed the last pitch which goes at grade 10.
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15 | ★ Insomnia | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | Don't Bother | Fri 13th Jan 2012 | |||
Just did this because I ran into a friend who'd just put a rope up it. Pretty crappy climb, dangerously run out to the 3rd bolt (warning is correct).
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15 | ★ David Mac | 18m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Sun 27th May 2012 | |||
Cleaning the gear.
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18 | ★ Arcane Secrets | 12m, 3 | Serpent | Average | Sat 16th Nov 2013 | |||
Another lap just to do it clean, did not get a chance to lead it again.
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19 | ★★ Reid | 15m, 3 | Brooyar | Average | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
I led this first, then went back on top rope to see how I could have done it better. That slab section up top is very technical with tiny holds and even smaller feed. Felt very run out, only three bolts... guide does say use 1.5 SLCD somewhere? Anyway, good change of style at Brooyar.
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15 | ★ David Mac | 18m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Sun 22nd Apr 2012 | |||
Same old easy KP route.
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15 | ★ David Mac | 18m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Sun 27th May 2012 | |||
Rope up for friend.
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4 8 | ★ Prometheus I | 120m | Mt Tibrogargan | Average | Sat 21st Jul 2012 | |||
First "climb" since the shoulder injury. Climbing is pretty ordinary because it is a lot of bush bashing through ledges interspaced with sections of easy but very poorly protected climbing. But it is still a really fun choose your own adventure style climb. We knew where it started and where it ended, the rest we worked out by climbing upwards!
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16 15 | ★ Mettiste | 60m | Mt Maroon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | |||
Climbed the first pitch of this with leaning hand crack, then went around the arête on the right up to tree and continued to large ledge up thin corner which might have been second pitch of Rocks Of Honey.
First pitch is great with good gear and hand jams. Second pitch was really good as well what ever it was but scary for the second because the traverse is very hard to protect for the second. |
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17 | ★ Mexicana | 60m | Mt Maroon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | |||
I think this is the route we climbed, headed left at the top of Rocks Of Honey first pitch and up into the nice crack system in the centre of the highest section.
There were a couple of committing scary moves down low with OK gear. the crux might be getting over the bush at half height! |
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10 | Head In The Trees | 15m | Mt Tibrogargan | Average | Thu 1st Nov 2012 | |||
More interesting way to start Prometheus I. Guess at date.
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12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Fri 6th Apr 2012 | |||
So apparently I did this all wrong the first time round... stay out of the chimney to the left!
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15 | ★ Mechanical Prune | 18m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Sat 5th May 2012 | |||
Murray's lead, glad about that too, the gear seemed a bit fiddly, it was fun to second though.
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14 | ★ Theory | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th May 2012 | |||
Awesome route, well lead by Murray. Would not want to do this without a big cam (#5 C4?) to protect that overhang at the start.
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8 | ★ Walk The Line - with Snapple | 20m | Mt Ngungun | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2013 | |||
Warm up for the arms.
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10 | ★★ Black Orpheus | 140m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Dec 2011 | |||
I led 2nd (crux) pitch, Jonothan led 1 and 3/4 (combined). I climbed the first pitch twice after I dropped our biggest hex at the belay, grrr! Second pitch did not seem too bad, hardly any worthwile gear on that slab but very easy climbing. 3rd pitch was great but insainly run out, Jonothan basically soloed it. On combined pitches 3 and 4 (55m) we only placed 5 bits of gear! Finished up the caves route and walked down the west face tourist route. Great day out!
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13 | ★ Electric Mud | 10m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Dec 2011 | |||
First climb at frog! Great intro, plenty of gear, not hard but still interesting.
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14 | ★ Electric Lead | 26m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Dec 2011 | |||
Great climbing, loved this route, again plenty of gear but also some spicy moves for a 14.
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12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 | 12m | Frog Buttress | Don't Bother | Thu 29th Dec 2011 | |||
I was looking for a nice easy warm up but this turned into an ordeal! It is not technically difficult (although that chimney is not easy for really tall guys like me) but the problem is you can't clean this yourself! You cannot lower back down the chimney without getting your rope nicely jammed in a crack. To add to my torment I got a red C4 stuck which took me half an hour to get out. The final straw was getting the rope jammed in that crack on the pull! Arrg!
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11 | ★ Parson's Pleasure | 10m | Frog Buttress | Don't Bother | Thu 29th Dec 2011 | |||
I was looking for something to sooth my nerves after the last climb. This was easy but very dirty. There is way better climbing at Frog than this. It only sees as many assents as it does because it is in the shade all day.
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14 14 R | ★ Cornflake Crack | 18m | Kangaroo Point | Don't Bother | Sun 4th Mar 2012 | |||
Led on trad gear in the wet. It was very very sandy which did not inspire confidence. Good gear in the first half, bit sketchy up top with dodgy rock and questionable placements. No holds on the top out, just dig those fingers into the dirt and scramble! Glad to have done some trad at KP but won't be rushing to repeat this climb.
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13 | ★ Blabbermouth VS | 22m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Mar 2012 | |||
Nice easy trad route with good protection, we went on to complete blabbermouth proper.
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12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 2 (Witches Cauldron) | 18m | Frog Buttress | Average | Fri 6th Apr 2012 | |||
Seconded first pitch, lead second. Damn that chimeny is tight!
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8 | ★ Walk The Line - with widdim | 20m | Mt Ngungun | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Feb 2013 | |||
Really good climb at the grade. I'm not used to having this much gear in the Glasshouse!
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8 | ★ Cold Girl - with Widdim | 20m | Mt Ngungun | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Feb 2013 | |||
Distinctly without ledges that usually mare easy climbs in the glasshouse. Fun climb, plenty of gear.
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12 | ★ Air Line - with Widdim | 20m | Mt Ngungun | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Feb 2013 | |||
Slightly awkward down low then jugs to the top!
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15 | ★★★ Icehouse - with Snapple | 40m | Mt Ngungun | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2013 | |||
More a test of your head than your arms, 50m is a long way to keep you sh1t together. I almost lost it when I found myself at the crux, 40m off the deck and with a couple of suspect cams 4m below my feet. Staring at three perfect hex placements does not help upward progress when there are no hexes left on your harness. So a few deep breaths and I ran it out to the wide crack where with great relief I jammed in the #3 and dispatched the last few meters. WooooHoooo!
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13 | Afternoon Delight | 5m | Redcliffs | Don't Bother | Sat 10th Aug 2013 | |||
What a waste of time.
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16 | Trad Bumblies Revenge | 5m | Redcliffs | Don't Bother | Sat 10th Aug 2013 | |||
Hard start, really crap rock and only 7m high. Enough said.
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14 | Cracked Glass | 15m | Redcliffs | Average | Sat 10th Aug 2013 | |||
Shitty gear down low, fun middle section, tricky finish.
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15 | ★ Patience Crack | 100m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th Dec 2013 | |||
Dan led P1, I led 2 and 3 combined. Excellent climb, gear and exposure. Only just managed to link P2 and 3 with a 50m rope and a little simu-climbing. Some tricky moves in there for a 15.
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16 17 | ★ Rocks Of Honey | 60m | Mt Maroon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | |||
Flaring 3 sided chimney on the first pitch is an excellent, really technical climb that requires a fair bit of thought. Good gear all the way.
Headed left and linked into second pitch of what I think was Mexicana, aesthetic long crack system up the centre of the highest part of the wall. |
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15 | ★ Witches Cauldron (Variant Finish) (?) | 14m | Frog Buttress | Don't Bother | Thu 29th Dec 2011 | |||
Haha, did this years ago on my first trip to frog thinking it was Witches Cauldron. Pretty horrible as far as I can remember!
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8 10 | ★ Orpheus | 150m | Mt Tibrogargan | Average | Sat 1st Jun 2013 | |||
Finally found out that this is the climb we did ages ago (date guessed). I just saw the decent looking corner on the way to Prometheus and decided to go up that. Thought we were pioneering an epic new route... but really you can do whatever you want on this section of Tibro. Rapped down caves route. Great day out!
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4 | ★★★ Caves Route | 520m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Jan 2012 | |||
Great day out with Jonothan, Amanda, Chris and Sven. Soloed the whole route, some nice exposure but basically a scramble. Me Sarah and Jono rapped down Blabbermouth on the North East buttress but I've previously been up to the summet from that point after doing Black Orpheus, so ticking this climb now.
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14 | ★ Electric Lead | 26m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Sat 5th May 2012 | |||
Seemed a lot easier that when I first did it 6 months ago, some improvements in crack climbing technique have helped.
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14 | ★ Shit Heap | 10m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Sat 5th May 2012 | |||
A #4 C4 makes this a lot easier! Glad to have ticked this after last trips micro epic. The upper crack is great, perfect fist size for me.
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12 | ★ Air Line | 20m | Mt Ngungun | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Mar 2013 | |||
Warm up for the head.
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4 | ★★★ Caves Route | 520m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Apr 2016 | |||
Took a couple of friends up, chilled day on the mountain.
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Sport | ||||||||
16 | ★★ Line Of Credit - with Tigz | 70m, 23 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Mar 2013 | |||
We defied Mother Nature and her rainy ways. She said f u and opened up the skys when I was at the 6th bolt on P1, nothing like leading tibro in the wet! It dried up and pitch two was fantastic.
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16 | ★★ The Pioneer | 40m, 11 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
Done with Terry, this climb has a great variation in it's 40m; face climbing, Brooyar pockets then nicely overhung and exposed up top. Great fun.
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17 | ★★ Sports Fan - with Rose | 45m, 11 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Apr 2015 | |||
Very nice route. The fun moves through overhang are well protected. Crux is finding the carrots!
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15 | ★★ Me And My Dog - with Rose | 45m, 11 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Apr 2015 | |||
Great route, I must have missed at least one bolt that put me a LONG way above the gear in the middle, kept a cool head and felt good!
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17 | ★ Little Ray Of Sunshine | 45m, 10 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
I may have ticked this when I was actually on 245T???
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15 | ★ Tea for 2 | 35m, 10 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Aug 2013 | |||
Great fun long climb.
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17 | ★ Little Ray Of Sunshine | 45m, 10 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Mar 2014 | |||
Thought I'd done this before but must have ticked this previously when I was actually on 245T. I got a bit confused at the tricky overhang up top. It's easy once you commit.
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15 | ★ Tea for 2 | 35m, 10 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
Fun climb that has some steep rock in the upper half. Spent 2 hours belaying up multiple seconds!
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14 | ★ 2 For Tea | 32m, 9 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sun 19th May 2013 | |||
A good climb but probably pretty average for the crag. There are a few reachy moves and there is no way that finish on the overhung headwall is a 14, closer to a 17 or so. The second last bot is in a terrible spot leading to some heinous rope drag if you're belaying up a second.
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17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
First climb of the Brooyar trip and what an introduction, overhung and two spots high up but holds everywhere! Awesome.
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17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Aug 2013 | |||
Excellent climb, bummer you have to climb through the shitty sandy stuff for the first 10m to get to the good stuff. Pretty overhung for a low grade, but all the holds are there, and the rests are where you need them.
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17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Mar 2014 | |||
Great climb, do this one every time I'm at Eagles Nest, heaps of fun.
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17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
Obligatory lap on this climb, so much fun.
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16 | ★★ It's A Long Way To Tip A Fairy | 45m, 8 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
Another great climb, the top overhangs look scary but the climb's bark is worse than it's bite, it's Brooyar and there are holds everywhere. Maybe a little run out but no need for natural pro as the description says.
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18 | ★★ Pink Panzer | 17m, 8 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Nov 2011 | |||
Surprised this route has not had more ascents, great climbing, scary looking roof but big holds always within reach. Second you partner on that hanging belay, brilliant stuff.
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15 | ★ MD | 30m, 8 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sat 18th May 2013 | |||
First climb in a while, pumpy when you've got no strength left.
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17 | ★★ Free Range Heggs | 20m, 8 | Brooyar | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th May 2013 | |||
I'm going to call this one a classic. Fantastic exposure and interesting moves up some crazy rock.
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14 | ★ I'm Lichen It More | 20m, 8 | Pages Pinnacle | Average | Sat 1st Feb 2014 | |||
Super easy but fun, good for beginners.
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16 | ★ What Were We Thinking | 20m, 8 | Pages Pinnacle | Average | Sat 1st Feb 2014 | |||
There is no escaping it, the rock is terrible but the climbing is actually fun. Should clean up eventually.
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18 | ★ TOS | 12m, 8 | Pages Pinnacle | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Feb 2014 | |||
Yep, pumpy like they say! Great fun and a route I can see myself doing many times.
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15 | ★ MD | 30m, 8 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sat 18th May 2013 | |||
Done again.
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18 | ★★ Annabelistic | 16m, 7 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sun 20th Nov 2011 | |||
Pretty typical Brooyar, little overhung, lots of holds, really fun.
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17 16 | ★ Snake Charmer | 15m, 7 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th May 2013 | |||
Quality climb and surprising moderate given the steepness. Ironically there was a baby brown snake enjoying the sun in a hole just before the second last bolt. Keep calm, clip and carry on.
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15 | ★★ Coco Pops | 30m, 7 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Aug 2013 | |||
Jugs all the way and pretty easy climbing but super runout in a couple of locations. Pretty sustained as well. Just forget the bolts and climb! Might not be the best beginner lead.
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13 | ★ One Legged Dog | 18m, 7 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Fri 6th Jun 2014 | |||
Warm-up and rope up for friends. Fun low grade climb.
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14 | ★ Degrees Of Freedom - with Rose | 35m, 7 | Mt Tinbeerwah | Average | Sat 25th Apr 2015 | |||
One tricky section at the start then just stepping up blocky slab for 25m.
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16 | ★ Snake Charmer | 15m, 7 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Jun 2014 | |||
One tricky clip in there.
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14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur (was: SI) | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Tue 17th Apr 2012 | |||
Cleaning the gear
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17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th May 2012 | |||
Cleaning the gear.
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14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sat 8th Dec 2012 | |||
14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Fri 23rd May 2014 | |||
Cleaning route.
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17 | ★ Slow Cure | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Oct 2011 | |||
Bit harder than I expected for the grade, that overhang especially. Have to admit that I skipped the overhang and used a bolt of 'Standing Room Only' at the overhang when I first lead it.
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14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur (The Lemur's Femur (was: SI)) | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 30th Oct 2011 | |||
Nice and easy lead, consistent.
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15 14 | ★ The Dog's Paw (Dogs Paw) | 15m, 6 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sun 20th Nov 2011 | |||
Great way to get those sore arms back into another day of climbing.
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17 | ★★ Pass the Bosch | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Wed 29th Feb 2012 | |||
Good climb till the the last bolt, then all sandy through tree roots. Moves past first bolt are a bit tough for a 17, the rest is easy.
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16 | ★ Anonymous DS | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 4th Mar 2012 | |||
Fun little climb, going straight up the face after the last bolt to the chains is about 19, to the right is an 14.
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19 17 | ★ Three Stroke Scree Slope | 15m, 6 | Mt Ninderry | ★ Good | Sat 19th May 2012 | |||
This deserves extra difficulty grading just for the confidence you need to pull on those scary thin bits of rock!
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17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th May 2012 | |||
Great warm up, really fun climb.
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18 | ★ Stoat Clips Bolts | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Jun 2013 | |||
This is a good climb, it is just not so popular because of the lack of chains. Pretty sustained and easy to get all crossed up if not thinking about where you're going.
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16 | ★ Becalmed | 13m, 6 | Brooyar | Average | Fri 23rd Aug 2013 | |||
Start is vaguely reminiscent of English gritstone... If only it did not turn to sand under foot. Fun headwall.
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15 18 | ★ Dark Matter | 17m, 6 | Mt Ngungun | Average | Sun 30th Aug 2015 | |||
I did not think this was much easier than Worm Hole and that was tricky for an 18.
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14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sat 8th Dec 2012 | |||
17 | ★★★ Minotaur p1 | 20m, 6 | Serpent | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Nov 2013 | |||
Embarrassing but I took a big fall trying to clip the 4th bolt on my first attempt. Ended up very close to the ground with my belayer 3m up in the air. Probably should have used the huge jug just above the bolt not the tiny crimp below it...
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17 | ★★ Pass the Bosch | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Fri 27th Dec 2013 | |||
Warm up, awkward down low.
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14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Fri 23rd May 2014 | |||
Rope up for friends, first climb in months!
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14 | ★ The Dog's Paw | 15m, 6 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Fri 6th Jun 2014 | |||
Rope up for friends.
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19 | ★★ Footprints on the Other Side | 18m, 6 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Jun 2014 | |||
Stoked to cruise it after the last dogged ascent.
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17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd May 2015 | |||
One of the better KP routes.
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16 | ★ Anonymous DS | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sat 23rd May 2015 | |||
Easy but still more interesting than the usual slabby sloper climbs at KP
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21 | ★★ Idiot Wind | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★★★ Classic | Wed 30th Nov 2011 | |||
Such a nice climb. Good little crimps and pockets all over it. You can't miss the next hold, it is the bit of rock covered in chalk! Will be leading it next time.
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15 | ★ Tombstone Row | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Wed 7th Mar 2012 | |||
Another run up it on TR this time. Fun climb.
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14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Tue 17th Apr 2012 | |||
Cleaning the gear.
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16 | ★ The Bee's Knees | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Tue 17th Apr 2012 | |||
Cleaning the gear
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14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 7th Oct 2012 | |||
First real climb since shoulder injury. Easing back into it very slowly.
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17 | ★ Bombadil | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 25th Nov 2012 | |||
F u bursitis!
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16 | ★ The Bee's Knees | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sat 8th Dec 2012 | |||
19 | ★★ The Bolting Gestapo | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sat 12th Jan 2013 | |||
Stoked with this, not because it is epically hard, just because it is the first climb in 6 months where the shoulder has been relatively pain free, woo!
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16 | ★ Frontier Psychiatrist | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 24th Feb 2013 | |||
Warmup.
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