Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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20 | ★★ Dreamcatcher | 15m | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Jan 2012 | |||
Really happy to have onsighted this, hardest climb I've lead in a while. Form slowly coming back. Make sure you go right at the last bolt... all that moss covered rock to the left is not a two star 20!
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20 | ★ Pommy Bastard | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Feb 2012 | |||
Great fun, supprised this does not get more attention. I'd say it is an ego boosting 20 and it is really well bolted so never stressful. Those last moves up the chimmny are really fun.
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19 | ★★ Reid | 15m, 3 | Brooyar | Average | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
I led this first, then went back on top rope to see how I could have done it better. That slab section up top is very technical with tiny holds and even smaller feed. Felt very run out, only three bolts... guide does say use 1.5 SLCD somewhere? Anyway, good change of style at Brooyar.
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19 19 R | ★ Arrow | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 4th Mar 2012 | |||
High first bolt, then only two more before the chains! Nice climb though.
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19 | ★★ Surrender | 20m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Fri 27th Dec 2013 | |||
Harder on the head than the arms, those ledges are ever present. Nice moves though. It would be a great climb if the first three bolts were reshuffled and maybe another added low down.
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18 19 | ★ Worm Hole | 17m, 5 | Mt Ngungun | ★ Good | Sun 30th Aug 2015 | |||
Quite tricky for the grade.
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18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Oct 2011 | |||
Challenging enough to be fun, nice and consistent
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17 18 | ★★ Troposphere (Troposphere p2) | 110m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Sat 5th Nov 2011 | |||
Starts to get a bit more dawnting to the end of this pitch, I combined it with P3.
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18 | ★★ Troposphere (Troposphere p3) | 110m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Sat 5th Nov 2011 | |||
One section on this pitch is hard, easier ground to the right but becarefull of a fall here, you'll take un unpleasent swing into the wall. Stoked to have led this.
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15 18 | ★★ Troposphere (Troposphere p4) | 110m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Sat 5th Nov 2011 | |||
Really easy after the previous pitch, but great position and enjoyable climbing.
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16 18 | ★★ Troposphere (Troposphere p5) | 110m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Sat 5th Nov 2011 | |||
Mmmm traversing Little bit more challenging than the previous pitch. Great fun. Make sure you have a 60m rope if your rapping this route with a single rope. Especially if you want to combine pitch 3 and 4 for the rap. Loved this entire route.
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18 | ★ Prima Diva | 8m, 3 | Brooyar | Average | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
Fun first move, rest is boring, and very sandy.
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18 | ★★ Pink Panzer | 17m, 8 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Nov 2011 | |||
Surprised this route has not had more ascents, great climbing, scary looking roof but big holds always within reach. Second you partner on that hanging belay, brilliant stuff.
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18 | ★★ Annabelistic | 16m, 7 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sun 20th Nov 2011 | |||
Pretty typical Brooyar, little overhung, lots of holds, really fun.
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18 | ★ Mank Mistress | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Thu 14th Jun 2012 | |||
Fully bolted, 8 hangars, no chains at top, must top out and belay second up to clear the gear. A little bit sandy but I enjoyed it in a masochistic kind of way.
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18 | ★ Stoat Clips Bolts | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Jun 2013 | |||
This is a good climb, it is just not so popular because of the lack of chains. Pretty sustained and easy to get all crossed up if not thinking about where you're going.
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18 | ★ Chironex | 8m, 3 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Aug 2013 | |||
Tough little move to the 3rd bolt.
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18 | ★ Hook Line And Sinker | 10m, 5 | Brooyar | Average | Fri 23rd Aug 2013 | |||
Awkward crux that is harder than expected looking from the ground.
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18 | ★ TOS | 12m, 8 | Pages Pinnacle | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Feb 2014 | |||
Yep, pumpy like they say! Great fun and a route I can see myself doing many times.
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18 | ★ Herb's In The Fernery | 15m, 3 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Fri 14th Mar 2014 | |||
Pretty tough getting through the roof. Interesting top out.
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15 18 | ★ Dark Matter | 17m, 6 | Mt Ngungun | Average | Sun 30th Aug 2015 | |||
I did not think this was much easier than Worm Hole and that was tricky for an 18.
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17 | ★ Slow Cure | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Oct 2011 | |||
Bit harder than I expected for the grade, that overhang especially. Have to admit that I skipped the overhang and used a bolt of 'Standing Room Only' at the overhang when I first lead it.
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17 | ★ Little Ray Of Sunshine | 45m, 10 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
I may have ticked this when I was actually on 245T???
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17 | ★ Bombadil | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Wed 30th Nov 2011 | |||
Run of the Mill KP.
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17 | ★★ The Enticer | 14m, 5 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Jan 2012 | |||
Warm up for "Dreamcatcher", but fun climbing in it's own right.
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17 | ★★ Pass the Bosch | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Wed 29th Feb 2012 | |||
Good climb till the the last bolt, then all sandy through tree roots. Moves past first bolt are a bit tough for a 17, the rest is easy.
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19 17 | ★ Three Stroke Scree Slope | 15m, 6 | Mt Ninderry | ★ Good | Sat 19th May 2012 | |||
This deserves extra difficulty grading just for the confidence you need to pull on those scary thin bits of rock!
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17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th May 2012 | |||
Great warm up, really fun climb.
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17 | ★★ Remains Of The Day | 140m, 22 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Jun 2012 | |||
Awesome! Leading the start of P3 is exciting! Led 1, 3, 4 and 5. Rob led 2. Gear required: #1 C4 top pitch 3. Single set C4 #0.3 to #2 and set BD stoppers on pitch 5. Rest is bolts. Rapped the route with 100m half rope (50m rappels) in three pitches, only just managing to link 4 and 5 with rope stretch. Linked 1 and 2 easy. Grade is a stiff 17 and pretty consistent the whole way except P5 at about 14.
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17 | ★★ Free Range Heggs | 20m, 8 | Brooyar | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th May 2013 | |||
I'm going to call this one a classic. Fantastic exposure and interesting moves up some crazy rock.
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17 | ★★ Remains Of The Day - with Dan | 140m, 22 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Jul 2013 | |||
Pitches 1, 2, 3 and got rained off so rapped. Dan led 1 and 3, I led 2. Pretty sketchy first pitch in the wet.
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17 | ★★ Zeitgeist - with Dan | 110m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Mon 15th Jul 2013 | |||
Rain held off long enough to get up this. Fun first pitch but the second two are pretty generic. I led pitches 1 and 3, Dan led pitch 2. Skipped many bolts on the third pitch to reduce drag and eliminate backcleaning (otherwise requires about 16 draws).
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17 | ★ Blowing Bubbles | 15m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Dec 2013 | |||
Fun climb, interesting moves.
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17 | ★ Little Ray Of Sunshine | 45m, 10 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Mar 2014 | |||
Thought I'd done this before but must have ticked this previously when I was actually on 245T. I got a bit confused at the tricky overhang up top. It's easy once you commit.
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17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
First climb of the Brooyar trip and what an introduction, overhung and two spots high up but holds everywhere! Awesome.
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16 17 | ★ Rocks Of Honey | 60m | Mt Maroon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | |||
Flaring 3 sided chimney on the first pitch is an excellent, really technical climb that requires a fair bit of thought. Good gear all the way.
Headed left and linked into second pitch of what I think was Mexicana, aesthetic long crack system up the centre of the highest part of the wall. |
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17 | ★ Mexicana | 60m | Mt Maroon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | |||
I think this is the route we climbed, headed left at the top of Rocks Of Honey first pitch and up into the nice crack system in the centre of the highest section.
There were a couple of committing scary moves down low with OK gear. the crux might be getting over the bush at half height! |
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17 | ★★ Sports Fan - with Rose | 45m, 11 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Apr 2015 | |||
Very nice route. The fun moves through overhang are well protected. Crux is finding the carrots!
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16 | ★ Standing Room Only | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Sun 16th Oct 2011 | |||
Hard moves to a high first bolt, rest of route pretty is easy, not a great warm up if you're looking for a chilled lead.
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16 | ★★ The Pioneer | 40m, 11 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
Done with Terry, this climb has a great variation in it's 40m; face climbing, Brooyar pockets then nicely overhung and exposed up top. Great fun.
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16 | ★★ It's A Long Way To Tip A Fairy | 45m, 8 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Nov 2011 | |||
Another great climb, the top overhangs look scary but the climb's bark is worse than it's bite, it's Brooyar and there are holds everywhere. Maybe a little run out but no need for natural pro as the description says.
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15 16 | ★ Tombstone Row | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Wed 30th Nov 2011 | |||
Nice easy little climb.
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16 | ★★ Sun Chaser | 15m, 4 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Jan 2012 | |||
Fun climbing on a great piece of rock.
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16 | ★★ Halva | 20m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Wed 15th Feb 2012 | |||
Varied moves and positive holds all the way up make it enjoyable climbing. Very well worn because of the good quality citation and low grade.
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16 | ★ Anonymous DS | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 4th Mar 2012 | |||
Fun little climb, going straight up the face after the last bolt to the chains is about 19, to the right is an 14.
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16 | ★★ Blabbermouth | 200m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Mar 2012 | |||
Great route, good rock, nice mix of trad/sport and plenty of air. I led 1, 3, 5 and 7, Ian made short work of 2, 4, 6. Variant start is a great trad route in its own right. We went off route at top of pitch 2 and ended up on El Schorcho (21). No wonder it seemed like a very hard 16! At the third bolt I and traversed right to the right line. Pitches 4-7 are pretty chilled after the first three. I soloed the last pitch which goes at grade 10.
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16 | ★ The Bee's Knees | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Tue 17th Apr 2012 | |||
Easy arvo at the cliffs
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16 | ★ Without Council Approval | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th May 2012 | |||
Interesting climb, feels harder than the grade but once you get the moves it is pretty straightforward.
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16 | ★ Frontier Psychiatrist | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Thu 14th Jun 2012 | |||
Better then you'd expect looking from the bottom... not too much bush bashing at all.
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16 | ★★ Line Of Credit - with Tigz | 70m, 23 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Mar 2013 | |||
We defied Mother Nature and her rainy ways. She said f u and opened up the skys when I was at the 6th bolt on P1, nothing like leading tibro in the wet! It dried up and pitch two was fantastic.
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16 | ★ Robbie's Robust Runners | 20m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Fri 19th Apr 2013 | |||
Not bad, interesting getting into the chimney.
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17 16 | ★ Snake Charmer | 15m, 7 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th May 2013 | |||
Quality climb and surprising moderate given the steepness. Ironically there was a baby brown snake enjoying the sun in a hole just before the second last bolt. Keep calm, clip and carry on.
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16 | Trad Bumblies Revenge | 5m | Redcliffs | Don't Bother | Sat 10th Aug 2013 | |||
Hard start, really crap rock and only 7m high. Enough said.
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16 | ★ Becalmed | 13m, 6 | Brooyar | Average | Fri 23rd Aug 2013 | |||
Start is vaguely reminiscent of English gritstone... If only it did not turn to sand under foot. Fun headwall.
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16 | ★ The Horse | 12m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | Average | Mon 2nd Dec 2013 | |||
Tricky little start but it is all over quickly and turns into easy gerneric tibro.
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16 | ★ What Were We Thinking | 20m, 8 | Pages Pinnacle | Average | Sat 1st Feb 2014 | |||
There is no escaping it, the rock is terrible but the climbing is actually fun. Should clean up eventually.
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16 | ★ New Day Rising | 15m, 3 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Fri 14th Mar 2014 | |||
Warm up, nice easy climb, nothing really memorable.
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15 | ★ Tiger Stripe | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Don't Bother | Wed 16th Nov 2011 | |||
Hard for the grade, feels a little run out as well. Doing it at night by head torch made it harder than it really is I suspect.
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15 | ★ David Mac | 18m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Sun 22nd Apr 2012 | |||
Same old easy KP route.
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15 15 R | ★ Wind in the Willows | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Sun 22nd Apr 2012 | |||
Can you say super run out? Second bolt is twice as high as the first, WTF? Funny, I thought I read it was an well protected sports route... no lower off either... maybe I was not on what I thought I was.
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15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Thu 10th May 2012 | |||
Easy warm up lead.
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15 | ★★★ Icehouse - with Snapple | 40m | Mt Ngungun | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2013 | |||
More a test of your head than your arms, 50m is a long way to keep you sh1t together. I almost lost it when I found myself at the crux, 40m off the deck and with a couple of suspect cams 4m below my feet. Staring at three perfect hex placements does not help upward progress when there are no hexes left on your harness. So a few deep breaths and I ran it out to the wide crack where with great relief I jammed in the #3 and dispatched the last few meters. WooooHoooo!
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15 | ★ MD | 30m, 8 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sat 18th May 2013 | |||
First climb in a while, pumpy when you've got no strength left.
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15 | ★ Irukandji | 7m, 2 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Aug 2013 | |||
One move but a fun little climb.
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15 | ★ Tea for 2 | 35m, 10 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Aug 2013 | |||
Great fun long climb.
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15 | ★★ Coco Pops | 30m, 7 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Aug 2013 | |||
Jugs all the way and pretty easy climbing but super runout in a couple of locations. Pretty sustained as well. Just forget the bolts and climb! Might not be the best beginner lead.
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15 | ★ Such A Nice Monster | 15m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Dec 2013 | |||
Jugs... on Tibro... that don't pull off... wish I'd known earlier!
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15 | ★ Patience Crack | 100m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th Dec 2013 | |||
Dan led P1, I led 2 and 3 combined. Excellent climb, gear and exposure. Only just managed to link P2 and 3 with a 50m rope and a little simu-climbing. Some tricky moves in there for a 15.
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15 | ★★ Get Into The Groove - with dave kenny | 50m, 7 | Mt Ngungun | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Feb 2014 | |||
The second pitch is magic and on its own it is a classic, but the first pitch is pretty ordinary. The run outs might freak out new leaders. Could be done with only a set of slings to protect the first pitch (there is no gear other than the trees anyway), just clip the first bolt on P2 and stay attached to the tree to belay.
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15 | ★ Miss Kandy Kane | 20m, 5 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
I thought this would be better given the popularity, the rock is turning back into sand up top! The bolts at the chains are looking pretty ordinary as well, some glue-ins are in order.
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15 | ★ My Brothers Keeper (My brothers crack whore girlfriend) | 10m, 5 | Brooyar | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Jun 2014 | |||
Steep, low grade and fun leading.
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16 15 | ★ Mettiste | 60m | Mt Maroon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | |||
Climbed the first pitch of this with leaning hand crack, then went around the arête on the right up to tree and continued to large ledge up thin corner which might have been second pitch of Rocks Of Honey.
First pitch is great with good gear and hand jams. Second pitch was really good as well what ever it was but scary for the second because the traverse is very hard to protect for the second. |
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15 | ★★ Me And My Dog - with Rose | 45m, 11 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Apr 2015 | |||
Great route, I must have missed at least one bolt that put me a LONG way above the gear in the middle, kept a cool head and felt good!
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15 | ★ Witches Cauldron (Variant Finish) (?) | 14m | Frog Buttress | Don't Bother | Thu 29th Dec 2011 | |||
Haha, did this years ago on my first trip to frog thinking it was Witches Cauldron. Pretty horrible as far as I can remember!
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14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur (The Lemur's Femur (was: SI)) | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 30th Oct 2011 | |||
Nice and easy lead, consistent.
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14 | ★ Crap | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Sun 30th Oct 2011 | |||
Not as crap as the name would have you believe. Big holds, plenty of feet. Second bolt is dificult to clip with style
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15 14 | ★ The Dog's Paw (Dogs Paw) | 15m, 6 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sun 20th Nov 2011 | |||
Great way to get those sore arms back into another day of climbing.
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14 | ★ Electric Lead | 26m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Dec 2011 | |||
Great climbing, loved this route, again plenty of gear but also some spicy moves for a 14.
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14 14 R | ★ Cornflake Crack | 18m | Kangaroo Point | Don't Bother | Sun 4th Mar 2012 | |||
Led on trad gear in the wet. It was very very sandy which did not inspire confidence. Good gear in the first half, bit sketchy up top with dodgy rock and questionable placements. No holds on the top out, just dig those fingers into the dirt and scramble! Glad to have done some trad at KP but won't be rushing to repeat this climb.
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14 | ★ That Boy Needs Therapy. | 15m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Thu 12th Apr 2012 | |||
Warm up. Bit stressfull up top at night without a headtorch... thrashing around in the sand trying to find a hold by feel.
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14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Tue 17th Apr 2012 | |||
Super easy but fun
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14 | ★ Pentennial Romanticide | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Sun 27th May 2012 | |||
Easy lap.
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14 | ★ Tiger's Tail | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2013 | |||
Fun easy route.
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14 | ★ 2 For Tea | 32m, 9 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Sun 19th May 2013 | |||
A good climb but probably pretty average for the crag. There are a few reachy moves and there is no way that finish on the overhung headwall is a 14, closer to a 17 or so. The second last bot is in a terrible spot leading to some heinous rope drag if you're belaying up a second.
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14 | Cracked Glass | 15m | Redcliffs | Average | Sat 10th Aug 2013 | |||
Shitty gear down low, fun middle section, tricky finish.
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14 | ★ I'm Lichen It More | 20m, 8 | Pages Pinnacle | Average | Sat 1st Feb 2014 | |||
Super easy but fun, good for beginners.
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14 | ★ Degrees Of Freedom - with Rose | 35m, 7 | Mt Tinbeerwah | Average | Sat 25th Apr 2015 | |||
One tricky section at the start then just stepping up blocky slab for 25m.
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14 | ★ Event Horizon | 17m, 4 | Mt Ngungun | Average | Sun 30th Aug 2015 | |||
13 | ★ The Hyena's Heinie (The Hyena's Heinie (was: MB)) | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | Average | Sun 30th Oct 2011 | |||
Nice and easy warm up, think I did a harder variant at he start, left of the arret, still not much harder than the rest of the route.
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13 | ★ Electric Mud | 10m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Dec 2011 | |||
First climb at frog! Great intro, plenty of gear, not hard but still interesting.
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13 | ★ Blabbermouth VS | 22m | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Mar 2012 | |||
Nice easy trad route with good protection, we went on to complete blabbermouth proper.
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13 | ★★ The Great Barrier Reef | 20m | Brooyar | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th May 2013 | |||
Amazing, got to be one of the best thirteens in the country. More than worth the time spent raping in.
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13 | Afternoon Delight | 5m | Redcliffs | Don't Bother | Sat 10th Aug 2013 | |||
What a waste of time.
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13 | ★ Off With The Pixies | 18m, 3 | Serpent | Average | Sat 16th Nov 2013 | |||
Pretty unmemorable. You would not want to fall though.
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13 | ★ One Legged Dog | 18m, 7 | Brooyar | ★ Good | Fri 6th Jun 2014 | |||
Warm-up and rope up for friends. Fun low grade climb.
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13 | ★ Star Dust | 17m, 4 | Mt Ngungun | Average | Sun 30th Aug 2015 | |||
Easy day out.
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12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 | 12m | Frog Buttress | Don't Bother | Thu 29th Dec 2011 | |||
I was looking for a nice easy warm up but this turned into an ordeal! It is not technically difficult (although that chimney is not easy for really tall guys like me) but the problem is you can't clean this yourself! You cannot lower back down the chimney without getting your rope nicely jammed in a crack. To add to my torment I got a red C4 stuck which took me half an hour to get out. The final straw was getting the rope jammed in that crack on the pull! Arrg!
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12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 2 (Witches Cauldron) | 18m | Frog Buttress | Average | Fri 6th Apr 2012 | |||
Seconded first pitch, lead second. Damn that chimeny is tight!
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12 | ★ Air Line - with Widdim | 20m | Mt Ngungun | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Feb 2013 | |||
Slightly awkward down low then jugs to the top!
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12 | ★ Date Anatomy | 16m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Mon 10th Nov 2014 |