Showing all 24 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
13 |
★★★ Trojan
- with
Thomas Zambon
| 73m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
NE Buttress Sector | ||||||
16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
- with
Steve Clarke
| 62m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Access to El Scorcho
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21 ~19 |
★★ El Scorcho
- with
Steve Clarke
| 110m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great start to the Sunday with Steve who absolutely crushed the crux pitch!
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
NE Buttress Sector | ||||||
21 ~19 |
★★ El Scorcho
- with
dre
1
21
53m
lead by
Robert Hartley
Great to come back and lead this pitch! Really fun climbing. I maintain my original opinion of the grade, even on lead it’s a soft touch. Stiff 18 / solid 19 in my opinion. Great second by Andre!
2
19
24m
lead by
Robert Hartley
A few hard moves off the belay, and then you’re off! Mellows very quickly into a scramble.
3
14
32m
lead by
dre
Great lead by Andre, especially given my pooly remembered description of the pitch… Handled the runouts excellently. | 110m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wasn’t the original plan, but beats being crowded at an anchor with another party for several hours. Great to come back and tick it too.
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13 | ★ Blabbermouth VS - with dre | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Brilliant lead by Andre! His first actual trad lead.
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16 |
★★ Blabbermouth P2
- with
dre
2
16
34m
lead by
Robert Hartley
Didn’t miss the first bolt this time, had a good chat to the party of three ahead. Chose to do El Scorcho than make a crowd at each belay. | 34m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Carborundum Wall | ||||||
19 Hard |
★ Patience Crack - Direct pitch 1 P1
- with
Yim
1
lead by
Yim
| 94m | ★ Good | |||
I think Yim was telling the truth when he said “I’ll take the 15” of the first pitch options, but then couldn’t resist the 19 onsight, and so up he went!
I thought the crux of this route was at the 15/19 intersection and found it quite tricky. One or two drop knees, followed by putting a couple hand holds back once I was done with them, and I was up. |
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15 |
★ Patience Crack
- with
Yim
2
32m
lead by
Robert Hartley
Great pitch of climbing and thrilled to have done so well! Bomber gear, great hands and feet and plenty of opportunity to test. The belay at the top of p2 is excellent (large wire, cam and thread), I don’t know why others suggested traversing onto Phoenix p2.
3
32m
lead by
Yim
I had planned to lead this pitch too, but I built and anchor of the rope and neither Yim or I could be bothered swapping ends. I thought this pitch was a bit tricky near the white rock, but otherwise pretty cruisy. Decent runout to the trees / grass which form your belay. | 64m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I’d had my eye on this route for a while, and I’m so glad I got to spend it with Yim linking up into Trojan.
Yim set his glasses on the ground and almost immediately stood on them… “How well can you see without your glasses?” are the words I used. “Can you still lead the scary pitches?” is the question I was asking. The strapping tape fix held the whole day but made for an interesting look! Gear A single rack was sufficient, maybe doubles in 2 and 3 would be useful?
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
13 |
★★★ Trojan
- with
Yim
1
13
14
lead by
Yim
Not as insecure climbing as the description and previous comments seemed to suggest. The feet are slick but the hands are quite positive. Yim did an excellent job leading this pitch and I cannot wait to return to lead it myself! Yim linked 1 and 2, and I would do the same in future. #4 BD hex was brilliant for the first piece. It sunk so well I didn't think I'd get the damned thing out. Yim slung a horn at the top and lovingly weighted it with his approach shoes: the olfactory crux.
2
14
lead by
Yim
Another great lead by Yim! As I arrived at the cave, I couldn't see the belay behind Yim and thought for a second that I was the lucky recipient of the loosest hip belay I've ever seen... I reckon the crux mantle on this pitch would be much harder if you were short. A 0.8 totem would've been better for the mentioned slot, and you could get an ornamental micro into the glued on flake too I guess. It might also be easier to place the cam after moving past the slot, rather than before. If linking 1 & 2, the risk of the second swinging is quite low as you're essentially walking for all but the last meter of the traverse.
3
15
lead by
Robert Hartley
Stellar finger jams the whole way up with enough sinker wires to (almost) make up for the overwhelming lack of gear on the first two pitches!
5
15
lead by
Robert Hartley
A fun little pitch in its own right, with a stellar keyhole wire placement right at the start of the crack. Wasn't expecting a bolted belay here, but I'll take it! | 73m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Spectacular! I thoroughly enjoyed this route, far more than I was expecting to. The position is outrageous, the moves are cruisey, and bar the first two pitches, the gear is great!
I'm grateful to Yim for leading the first two pitches, and showing me I could do the same. I look forward to returning to tick them on lead myself. Gear A single rack was perfect.
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Sun 7th May 2023 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
17 |
★★ The Martian
- with
dre
1
15
48m
lead by
Robert Hartley
Run out sport with a horn to sling. Easy climbing and a nice intro pitch.
8
15
30m
lead by
Robert Hartley
Rope drag wasn’t too bad. I found it easier to go up the arête. Didn’t spot the hidden pro on the left, I must have stayed too far right, but there was some gear available?
10
17
30m
lead by
Robert Hartley
What you’re here for! A terrific pitch of climbing with great pro the whole way. | 320m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The Martian makes for a great day out! The last 2 pitches are certainly the most fun, but the others are so relaxed that they’re enjoyable in their own right.
Andre did a great job, taking the lead for his first ever mixed multi, and only his second mixed lead. Great placements! We went at a very leisurely pace, and copped some rain on the descent. Doesn’t take much water to turn the slab to glass! Gear The recommended rack is perfectly adequate for a safe day out. If you really wanted to double up on something, you could get another 3 (DMM) in. If you’re comfortable at the grades, you can essentially leave the whole rack on the second for the first 8 pitches. I think Andre only placed wires and DMM 1 & 2 during these pitches. |
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
NE Buttress Sector | ||||||
20 Easy |
★★ Sideshow Bob
- with
Alex
2
13
30m
lead by
Robert Hartley
Typical nondescript Tibro access pitch. Bolts where you need them, and a nice wire near the top.
3
15
30m
lead by
Alex
A 30m percussion instrument. Lots of dummy, suspicious rock at either end of this pitch.
4
16
45m
lead by
Robert Hartley
The route this pitch follows wasn't immediately obvious to me. Generally up and left from the belay, for future reference. A really nice pitch of climbing. Bolts are well spaced, but wire placements are easily found.
6
20
30m
lead by
Robert Hartley
Quite a crazy looking pitch of climbing! Certainly longer than photograph's I'd seen made it appear. Great mix of jamming, stemming, and weird arm bars while you shake out your claves. The crack didn't feel like a 20 to me, perhaps closer to 18/19. I felt the hardest one or two moves were exiting the crack at the top as you step out onto the face. Rock quality within the crack was generally decent. Several portable holds on the faces either side, however. Medium - large wires and hexes were my primary protection. Plus small - medium cams.
7
16
32m
lead by
Robert Hartley
A nice pitch of climbing with solid rock. Hangers are decently spaced but where you need them. Didn't see any placements on this pitch, but didn't feel the need for any gear. Went past the actual anchor for this pitch and belayed from the top of the second last pitch of Ross Miller Route (up and left). This made exiting via Blabbermouth easier. | 220m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A great day out with Alex! Hopefully we'll get a few more in before he racks off to Canada.
Overall a fun, well protected route with a great crux pitch and smatterings of questionable rock throughout. Started up pitch 1 around 9am, topped out around 1pm. Didn't bother with the last pitch. Descent via Blabbermouth. Gear Wires & hexes (DMM 1-3) Cams: 00-4 (DMM). Doubles 0-3 if you want, and I reckon you could fit a 5 in there too. |
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
NE Buttress Sector | ||||||
19 ~19 |
★★ El Scorcho
- with
Angie
1
19
53
Great lead by Scott! This pitch felt very soft for a 21, closer to 18/19 in my opinion.
2
19
24
lead by
Angie
A hard few moves straight off the belay, especially if you’re short. These moves felt harder than anything on the 21 pitch. | 110m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A really great climb! I’ll definitely be back to take the lead of each pitch. This is basically sport with a mixed approach via Blabbermouth.
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13 | ★ Blabbermouth VS - with Angie | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still haven’t done the direct start, but this pitch is hard to beat.
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16 |
★★ Blabbermouth P2
- with
Angie
2
16
34m
| 34m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I always miss the first bolt on this pitch, it’s lower than I remember!
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Sat 17th Dec 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Carborundum Wall | ||||||
17 |
★★ Remains Of The Day
1
17
20m
2
15
28m
3
16
28m
4
16
30m
5
13
30m
| 140m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Carborundum Wall | ||||||
17 |
★★ Remains Of The Day
- with
Amy Chan
| 140m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | |||
During P4 a falcon circled overhead a few times, paused briefly on a ledge in the chimney to check us out, then took off again. Besides this encounter they didn't seem to pay us any attention. During the 5th pitch a pair engaged in midair combat over the caves route sector! Route Summary: A well protected introductory trad route, similar to Blabbermouth, but in a more interesting position. SLCDs 0-4 (DMM) + medium & large wires is more than sufficient. Descend: 2x60m will get you from the top of p5 to the top of p3, and again to the top of p1.
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Sat 25th Jun 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
NE Buttress Sector | ||||||
16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
- with
Amy Chan
| 180m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back to lead the route!
Gear beta: A single rack is sufficient, if you must bring doubles make them micros. Swap out the #5 (DMM) with a big hex. Rap beta: If on 60m doubles, I’d recommend descending by linking 7-6, 5-4, 3-2, 1. On a 60m single you’ll have to rap each pitch. |
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Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
NE Buttress Sector | ||||||
16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
- with
Angie
| 200m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This was my first mixed multipitch route and was an excellent introduction! Overall the route is very well protected with plenty of hangers where natural gear is unavailable. A 70m single rope will allow you abseil each pitch without issue. We started climbing the variant start at around 0715 and topped out around 1045 and were back on the ground at 1145.
Big thanks to Angie for taking me up and for being great company! Pitch notes:
Thanks to the developers for the time, effort, and money that went into making Blabbermouth what it is: an excellent introductory mixed multipitch. It's a route I expect I'll enjoy many times, and gives me the confidence to tackle others! |
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Sun 6th Feb 2022 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Upper Cliffs The Upper Main Cliff | ||||||
13 | ★ Deep Purple - with Alex | 35m | ||||
Done as two pitches, belaying from the ledge. Alex leading the first, me the second. It was extremely windy at the top belay stance.
Even the largest pieces of the rack were being held horizontal to my body by the wind. |
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13 | ★ Angie - with Alex | 18m | ||||
An enjoyable, reasonably protected route with lots of stemming.
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Mon 4th Oct 2021 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Octopuses Garden | ||||||
16 | Guam - with Alex | 14m | Don't Bother | |||
Very dirty, not worth it even if you’ve hauled your rack all the way up the approach.
The top out ledge which hides the anchors was covered in a ferny mat and prevented placing snake pro. This mat is now at the bottom of the crag. Had to traverse right onto Pitcairn at the obvious seam. Was on doubles so easy enough to protect. Got taken out by a skinny tree, broke a branch off on the way down. |
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Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Lower Cliffs Flat Battery Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Hairy Legs - with Alex | 15m | Average | |||
There’s only one move on this route that comes close to the grade. Protection is adequate with underwhelming rock quality. Very dirty, mustn’t see much traffic.
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14 | ★★ Spilled Milk - with Alex | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 2nd Aug 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
13 | ★★ Crack Chaser - with Alex | 16m |
Showing all 24 ascents.
Tom did a great job linking pitches 3-5 in one push. Best way to do it imo.