Routes in North

A 'Castle Hill' classic. A great climb to do in the afternoon. The route was rebolted in late 1998 and again in 2017 to make it completely safe. Simply great climbing with excellent positions up the top.

Start: Starts a few metres down R of TS. If you can't find TS, walk past the bouldering wall, keeping an eye out for a wide chimney (landmark) up through the grass on your L. Continue past this for a few metres, keeping on the track until you hit the (overall) third railing on the track. Once here, punch up the hill through the grass for 10m (no track) to the base of the blunt arête of the large, slightly detached block that is the start of the climb. You'll know you're on track if you see a series of big, silver 90 degree FHs quite close together up the face.

1. 20m (18) A tricky lead with some insecure moves. Easily to clip the first FH. Cruxy moves through to third FH. More FHs until you reach the crack where the climb eases. Chain belay behind the tree. 'Escape' off L (chains) is possible here, but keep climbing because the next pitches are better.

2. 20m (16) From the DBB behind the tree, step up onto the cheat stone and L onto the thin face past first FH. Nice moves past some thin stuff with odd thank-you-God jug will lead you past FHs to the massive, exposed slab with fantastic views, easy moves. More FHs up the slab until the ledge and DBB. A great pitch. You can scramble off L here if needed.

3. 30m (19) Step R using the slightly loose block to clip the first FH above the belay. Now instead of traversing R for the Vision Original Finish, continue straight up through the crux at midway following the bolts to the DBB.

You'll need 12 quickdraws + something for the DBB the anchor.

Speed Record

The current speed ascent record is held by Jarrah Brand-Adams & Christopher Glastonbury with a time of 7 minutes 15 seconds.

Glen Hayford & Sam Lavender 17:54.

18-12-19 Jarrah Brand-Adams & Christopher Glastonbury 10:45.

22-12-19 J B-A & CG 8:06.

22-12-19 J B-A & CG 7:15.

One of the first recorded routes at Mt Stuart. Climbs the obvious R facing corner to ledge at half height then solid laybacking up the flake to top. Tricky to protect down low; take small wires/RP's, very small cam, 0 Camalot X3 works a treat. You need to be solid at grade 17 to lead this route (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb). Be wary of the block at the top which appears to move (though some reinforcement was done late 2021).

A climb perfect for beginners or a first multi-pitch.

1. Start on the slab left of the gully. Up slab and headwall to DRB. 10 bolts + anchor

2. Step R and up slab, through crux to easy ground to DRB. Can walk off left here. 8 bolts + anchor

3. Straight up slab to DBB. Can also walk off here. 8 bolts + anchor

4. Walk R 5m on ledge to slab. Traverse slab R to DRB. 5 bolts + anchor

5. Up slab through corner to DRB. 7 bolts + anchor

Start in the obvious corner and climb straight up crack with good moves. Once in the cave reach out to the right to the "Eye" hold then up to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

One of the best crack routes on the 'Playground'.

Start: The obvious crack 2m R of "Eye of the Tiger" good placements for "pro" throughout. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Beginning 15m R of FD, climb the steep orange slopers. Finish at anchor below roof.

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

A good crag warm up. A tricky start and finish with a flowery middle!

The crack line, wide at the top. Apparently, if you grab the tree you're cheating.

Large open corner on the left of the cave. Start on the raised ground at a corner. Stick clip the first and only bolt to gain large jugs and gear. Move left before extruded block to easy moves and more gear. Straight up, then move R to single rap ring.

Starts on the first four bolts of OMF and continues straight up. It's a classic route and a very nice warm-up route for the area. There is a small cairn (a rock stack) to reach the bad starting holds and then up to the better hold.

Sit start at the base of the arete, left of slab the slab wall. There is a small pocket for right hand low on arete. Follow arete keeping feet smeared slab, avoid use of left hand face. Perfect hold halfway. Rails just left of arete on face are in for V1, out for V2. Topout at top of arete.

The crag classic, stick with the mank start as the rock gets vastly better by the third bolt. Great endurance climbing with a powerful finish.

Start in the middle of the rock and follow a straight line up. The crux it just below the top cliff.

Continually interesting face and crack climbing that is not well protected at the start. Up the light coloured face to the diagonal crack (or start up the diagonal of ZZ) diagonal L to a small cam then diagonally R to the crack. Up this to the top, #2.5-3 cam at the top.

Straight up into the Martin traverse and up past the bolts. DBB. (originally natural anchor from boulders and chockstone).

Funky steep arête on the left edge of the Hyperbowl cave. Finish left past bolt 6 to join Metalicious and lower from that routes anchor. 7 U-bolts.

Another beginner classic. Starts 4m R of SWW in the deep black corner. Follow this corner crack to top of pedestal. Climb up into the three-sided lift shaft and fill your pants as the massive boulder moves. Now layback your way up the R-facing corner to glory. DBB at the top or use the crack & tree belay.

Climb on some unbelievable scoops followed by a crimpy crux to the midway anchor.

Starts about 6m right of Smiley at the 'UTC' initials. The climbs goes straight up to the prominent bollard, then traverses left and crosses over 'Let's Face It' to join up with Smiley. Up the deep crack of Smiley to finish.

Starting 4m right of TCYRIO. Pass the small plant next to the 1st bolt and then a tricky slab section, layback up block to orange streak and DRB in back of bowl. Shares the same anchors as Steel Cavalry.

Reachy start with an optional batman to the first jug. Sustained and enjoyable with closely spaced bolts.

Good first lead or warm up. On the slabby side of the pinnacle facing Vision. Start 1m R of the arete, up the delicate slab and over the roof to chains. 4FHs

Sit start on the flake surrounding the F on the Flip graffiti, work up and around and top out.

Short, powerful and pumpy.

One of the cliff classics and the epitome of Mt Stuart climbing. If the bottom half was like the top, it would be three stars. Up the grungy corner (14) 3m R of BGMRTF to ledge. From here, boldly blast straight up the 10m face passing three FH's with the crux at the third FH to the top.

Starting on the arête to the left of "Par 3". This fun climb is a mega classic with spectacular views and providing a true feeling of exposure. This awe inspiring climb offering excellent photo opportunities with powerful starting moves and an interesting mix of crimps and balancey high block steps for the rest, up to the lower-off.

Rising traverse, topping out at the right-hand arete. Super classic and a fantastic warm up.

Start off the block as for "Master's Apprentice", technical moves off ledge then a brilliant punchy finish through awesome steep pockets. 23 for tallies.

Starting just left of Nacho Libre, this is an excellent warm-up route for the area, with a technical start, and a consistent intensity level up to the finish after a short rest. Fun and technical!

Starts 5m right of Cannonball (ZZ initials). Take small to medium wires and cams. Climb up the wall to the first ledge then zig R and up to the next sloping ledge. Up to the big half-way ledge then zig R to the shallow open-book corner. Up the shallow corner with some concern, then zig L to the welcome ledge. Finish up the right diagonal crack.

Starting around the corner from Torched and just left of Phantom Bolters. A fun route that requires good footwork, and trusting feet to get to the anchor. It shares an anchor with Phantom Bolters.

Starting left of Nude Nothings, this route has good climbing most of the way followed by a definite crux where all good holds have been ripped away to leave only a difficult move, one hard & crimpy crux. A steep finish to anchors shared with Nude Nothings.

'M' at start of climb.

Starting up Mira Nova but continuing up at 3rd bolt to U bolt anchor at lip. Often seeps, but still climbable if the seepage is minor.

Start far right, work pockets and incredible hidden undercling jug up weakness to orange patch. Nice pinch into jugs and topout

Obvious finger crack in middle of the wall. Move straight up, then to the left to finish on ledge. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Extension to Fairy Dust. From anchor move up and L through steep roof to CW anchor.

Sit start underclining underside of major central flake (made possible by the spider who gave his home for this hold). Avoiding dabbing pointed flake behind. Follow into weakness diagonally up left, top above here.

'TFG' at start of climb. A little faded.

Starts about 5m R of "Master's Apprentice". Perfect little sport route with some lovely pockets. Start off block, up orange wall on good holds to final tricky bulge. It's a nice grade 21 warm-up to 6th bolt. 7 U-bolts.

Who doesn't like a spicy finish? At the second last bolt traverse left and into the corner. Once you are in the corner then come back right onto the exposed juggy face to reach the anchor.

Sit in rocky hole, work left hand crack using wall features for V1, V2 for direct up crack without wall's aid

Punchy boulder crux.

Super classic sit-start to “Bear Huggies” and very pleasant for the grade. A Harvey's Marbles must do!

Extension to Wings of Steel - a real slab adventure for true slab ambassadors!

The way to do Holiday. The shallow corner up the L hand side of the pedestal/flake. Take a sling for the small chockstone. DBB at the top or use the crack & tree belay.

A test piece 16 and a serious lead for the grade. Starts at the black stepped face 4m R of "Under The Cling". Climb up this black wall with growing concern (bring tiny wires or RP's) to welcome ledge (good gear). Bridge and claw your way up the technical V-corner behind, being mindful of the finger locks.

Work holds in centre of wall, end again is slightly scarce of holds working cenral due to angles. But works, topout

Starts at the ramp below the large scoop.

1. 18m 17 Up via the grey scoop past the 1st FH. Traverse out left and then around the block to easier ground. Up to ledge with tree and DRB.

2. 30m 12 Up the obvious corner. Go left and up until you reach the large ledge beneath the short headwall.

3. 30m 13 Walk left along ledge and climb around bulge to gain short steep corner. Up corner and then diagonally left until you reach a small section of orange rock below a steep headwall. Belay at end of orange section.

4. 50m 17 Climb up the headwall past horizontal breaks, then traverse right to crack. Up and over to reach the large ledge. Traverse right along the set of ledges to reach the top of Master's Apprentice. Escape via the chains.

Be aware of loose rock on pitches 2-4.

"The Inner Circle" classic problem with lovely technical moves. Up the left leaning vague arête. This is normally done from a sit start, although the stand is no easier.

Starts 3m right of EP. The first few metres can be badly affected by impressive green mounds of seepage during/after the wet season. Bridge against the tree and cliff to bypass the often wet start. Head right at 3rd bolt and mantle.

A nice beginner problem that can be started from numerous holds and heights, but it's best started low off on opposing sidepulls.

The obvious rising traverse line from L to R on the next side around. Start as far left as possible and slap along right on very open-grip holds. Finish by topping out on the boulder. Quite a bit harder when done barefoot.

Start 2m right of "Gone in 60 Seconds" on 3 ring bolts then followed by 5 plates. This had to get completed eventually.

Start as BOMF, following line of bolts trending right and finishing up AF. Unsure of grade, so if you get on it please list what you think it is.

Short and sweet. The short face with 3 FHs up hill in the gully. L of the chimney and starts in the little corner on the L. DRBB lower off now on side of pinnacle for this route.

A very fun climb with good holds up to a balancy crux! Starting 2m right of BIU; up the flake, jugs, another flake then onto the slab and up to the chains. Beware of blocks that might still be loose.

Excellent thin wall with the crux at the top. Wicked from start to finish. Scramble up ramp rising up on L, which is about 10m R of JB, to big ledge with trees; this is is the base of the route.

Can be done with or without bridging at the start. The left wall is used a few times to bridge in the lower half of the route. Climb up the sustained wall just R of the chimney Eridanus passing six FH's. Crux is near the top.

Start up the prominent rib feature to a powerful crux at the third bolt. Now cruise up the jugs to the orange streak, watch out for the tricky last move.

Originally finished right to "Out On a Limb" chains and titled "Slack Time".

This climb will leave you with a good feeling afterwards. Nice jugy hold & laybacks up this flake to a slightly technical foot rockover.

A balancy crack and face climbing to a slope at the top with a pleasant top out. Classic. See Bum Crack Sit-start for a slightly harder problem.

Worth doing. Starts around the corner, 8m R of TFT. Easily up face to BR below base of bottomless corner. Layback up corner to below small roof, then slap around R (crux) and pull up to ledge. Up short crack and go for a walk in the "greenhouse" before finishing up the nice wide cracks in the corner. Has seen some huge groundfalls from the corner.

Around the corner from Transcontinental. A rising line trending up left to a high crux with crescendoing funky moves and a steep finish.

Awesome! Hardest on the cliff, and also the best. One of the only climbs here that isn't a poxy slab! The line of five FH's starting 0.5m R of the arête. A left arm killer! Scott says "If you use the sloping wall on the R you are not climbing the proper route". BB and sling the boulder at top.

Start L of "Whale Traverse" at a tips mono pocket and traverse R along foot rails to exit up middle slabs.

Starting 4m right of TCYRIO at CAC. Climb up for 3 bolts, past the small plant next to the 1st bolt and the tricky slab section, then traverse left and link into TCYRIO. This route shares the same anchors as TCYRIO.

This is simply a continuation of 'Twister'. Climb the sustained crack of twister then continue up the tricky face. The route veers diagonally up and right past two carrots then to "Wimps in the Gym" 's last fixed hanger bolt. It is also possible to avoid the initial crack of twister by approaching from the ledge at Rude Awakening. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

The first crack you will see when entering the playground from the left end (while facing seawards) very easy, a good route for beginers to pratice trad climbing.

Popular for beginners. Very easy, and a good first lead on natural protection. It is the widest crackline which is located 1.5m L of the arête. Belay from "SIASSB" anchor.

Starts 5m R of TEOR, around the next side of the pinnacle. Clip the 1st FH and climb onto the face before heading L around the arete and up the vertical face, avoiding any of the large cheat stones for your feet (FH). Up, clipping the 3rd FH off a LH mono before reaching for the arete. Continue up the arete (2 FHs) before traversing (crux) around the bulge clipping the tricky 5th FH. Now up the overhanging wall on jugs to the chains.

A popular, nice slab climb. A good workout for your legs. Start at the bottomless, left-facing corner 30m R of arête. Finish up the loose exit to a boulder belay. Three FH's, wires at top.

A challenging start!

Use hollow jugs for fun flying up route

As for ZZ to the first ledge. Hard moves up the left side of the smooth wall passing a single FH.

Sustained technical face climbing. Starts just left of cave edge, 2m left of White Gold. Bouldery start then blocky bulges to little right traverse to finish at anchors over last bulge. 9 U-bolts.

Work 3 obvious jugs or 2 as a dyno. Mind the spiders in the holds

The set of twin cracks 2.5m L of arête to small corner in upper section. Great rock. Belay from "SIASSB" anchor.

Starting just left of Torched. This fun route has a technical start for beginners, and tricky finish for shorter climbers.

Starts where the western track meets the rock on the vague north-eastern corner of the South Sentinel.

1. Up from initialled corner to large scoop and gear. Move R out of scoop and continue up the crack. Move L past 1 FH to a small horn and another FH. Gain the corner crack and follow the ledges to vegetated belay ledge and chains.

2. Up and L from the belay through vegetation to gain the large detached rib. Pass optional rivet on the main wall (requires 1 bracket) and follow rib to ledge with prominent crack. Up to gain large ledge with tree.

3. Up steep scooped wall to sloping ledge and traverse L to single FH (back up with gear).

4. Obvious crack above belay then easy corner to summit.

Starts 5m right of vision. Option to bypass start by traversing in from ramp on vision pitch 1. Can reach vision ledge via one bolt extension.

One of the mega classic multi-pitches at Frederick Peak bolted by the three monkeys themselves.

1. 12m 13 Trend right on 'Gringo Nomad' slab to the right of the orange streak.

2. 25m 19 Technical & fingery crack into corner.

3. 27m 20 Up the arête then traverse 3m right to anchor on uber cave ledge.

4. 12m 15 Up jugs and then left around steep arête.

Quite good, especially the start. Corner crack 0.5m L of the arête to face crack. Belay from "SIASSB" anchor.

Starting 5m right of CAC, this route is a mega classic and doesn't let up until you get to the anchors. Follow the steep left leaning V groove with superb white rock. Super pumpy, nice sustained route on great rock; burly through the lower half, balancey, reachy and delicate through the top half. It has a definite sustained midsection crux that starts about 8 meters off the ground and after that the top is still pretty tricky. Very technical, intense, and engaging!

The nice line up the L-hand side.

Arete just left of “Spiderman”. Great.

Starting just right of YB. This route has engaging and fun moves where a height dependent move in the middle is possible. It shares an anchor with Yogi Bear.

Stand back and look for the fox! A beautiful technical climb with classic jug ending. Shares the same anchor as Dirty Business.

Starts about 7m R of Vision. Up flakes to clip first FH then up to second FH and up onto the slab and third FH. Now trend easily up and R to finish at double rings. A popular and fun sport route. 3 FHs.

Up laybacks to jugs on loose granite. No good foot holds.

Flows nicely on crimpy solid rock.

Start 10m right of BSC and left of fern garden. Long move to start then up slab then short steep orange corner to lower-off. Much harder than it looks from start to finish!

Starting on the other end of the split from Sliced. If your knee or elbow goes over the lip, you are not doing the intended route. The climb can be easily equipped/ cleaned by mantling on to the boulder and walking along the top. Further, this technique can be used to bail/ skip sections.

Obvious bear hug arête, like holding refrigerator block.

Stickclip first bolt below undercling flake, up this with tricky feet. Crimp through bulge to rest, then balance out right over to jugs

Technical slightly slabbed climbing following the bolts.

Climbs the prominent arete which is surprisingly featured! A brilliant climb with a challenging start. Recommend to clip the 2nd bolt early before entering the start crux moves to the obvious ledge above. The optional two bolt extension ('Turn to Gold') is thin, and goes at grade 24.

Located on the ground approximately 25m R of "Tristar", it's the best middle grade multi-pitches on Mt Stuart. A decent route with nice rock and brilliant views overlooking Townsville. The first and the last two pitches are sensational. There's plenty of good pro and some exciting moves. It's a great intro climb to the Mt Stuart area and can be top roped and split into two pitches. The last two pitches can be strung into one pitch but watch for rope drag and the sloping ledge.

Best accessed via rappelling down from rusty chain to P2 Chains and then again down to bottom of cliff.

1. 25m 18 Climb the sustained black R-leaning corner/slab, steepening at top to gain a ledge with small tree. Natural belay.

2. 13m 16 Up the groove to gain sloping ledge. Chain belay.

3. 12m 10 Traverse L past corner with FH (The Fifth Wind) and down around nose to belay below obvious V corner and arête. Beware of huge death block in traverse.

4. 20m (18 crux) Strenuously up steep crack in arête to where it finishes. Step L around arête to gain another corner then up to sloping ledge.

5. 30m 17 Climb straight up steep headwall to gain a ledge then continue up to final ledge and belay. Alternatively, traverse right once at fixed hanger to rusty long chain (rap station).

Words can't do this route justice. Undeniably a world-class, "you should travel here to do this" route. Starts with stickclipping the bolt a couple of metres right of Citizen Arcane. Technical slab/groove start to the Facebook-famous dyno. Motor up the crack and confront the "press". Seam section to monster pockets. An unforgettable finale to cap things off.