Routes in White Rock Conservation Area

Stand start on the left side of the arete of “The Powerpuff girls” with LH Gaston pocket and RH arete. “What we do every night pinky, try to take over the world”.

a shame the chock stone broke, poetical to start still sit start right hand foot match in the very low undercling, up the arete and big right move to gain the three finger pocket. straight up to tricky tope out. might go now at v10+

Sit or squat start low on right side of cave looking in. Traverse up the lip till just before the tree and top out.

Climb RAN, at the finish jug climb down onto the big shelf, blast left and then absolutely gun out of the cave through the project on the left side of the lip. V10?

Alt-start to RAN, sit starting 3m’s to the left (looking at the back of the cave) on obvious rail. Climb the enjoyable long flake which joins into- what most consider- RAN’s crux.

Sit-start in the middle back of the wall on the obvious jug rail. Take the nice middle line, blasting off to an oblivion of cave tricks. Remember your sequence or find yourself laying on the mats. Finish on the highest jug in the roof over the other side.

Start just to left of the Cherry Ripper start (when facing the back of the cave), with both hands and right heel in a jug. Traverse left onto the shelves and finish as for Rats of Tobruk.

Start in the middle of the lip on two jugs and a very high R Heel. Crank up and climb the steep ledges to finish on the highest jug in the roof above.

Sit-start on the left side of the cave looking outside- on obvious flat jugs. Move across the low line of jugs into a drop down move onto a shelf. Traverse across untill linking up into ROT.

Sit start as for NC on the left side looking out of the cave. Blast along the lip on the left to a stopper Steep Crux. Top out on buckets above next to the small tree. The only line that can escape the cave

Start hands on undercling crimps in cavelet, not big low undercling. Don't put your feet on the flat shelf at the base, but anything raised above (e.g. the prominent bumps) is good. Span out and higher up the face using sidepulls and heel then obvious top straight up.

Staring at the tree to the left of Obi-wans Revenge. Easy start from a scoop to a commiting sloping mantle topout

Stand start at the base of scoop, straight up and mantle lip.

...there is no try. Start in cave to the right of Obi Wan's Revenge. Right hand meat hook jug, left hand on top of flake jug. Huge low feet and heel hooks see you moving up and left on large crossover moves to the obvious gaping mouth sloper on the face. From here move delicately up and slightly right on positive sloping pockets to a long reach left to a good crimp, then another move left to small jug below roof. Finish with a committing overhanging mantle.

Climb the obvious fridge feature. deep from in the cave. Slap side to side and try and work out the wacky puzzle at the lip. Don't get swallowed up by the giant monster!!

Start on mega jug sidepull right of Smouldering Jawas, traverse across the start of Jawas following the line of crimps along seem, finish for The mighty Sarlak.

Rad sit-start on block under roof to small undercling, then punch to cool looking flake. Sooo bloody awesome and burly. Make sure you have a fair few pads.

Used to be the Jango fett project, but our authenticity checks clarified that Jango was never actually on tatooine we think. Unless he went there on a holiday at some point, but seriously who would go to mos eisley for a holiday, so it's kind of unlikely.

Start on big undercling, head straight out through roof on some small holds. Finish with a real mantle. Powerful, techy, steep and poopy - it's got it all.

Links the start of "These aren't the jugs you are looking for" into the crux of Tuscan Raider - slightly easier than TR.

Start on the Juggy flake between TATJYLF and Tusken Raider. Pull out a long way to a jug left of the giant flake jug before crossing to it. Super classic problem by HB.

Start on big flake right of Tuscan Raider, big move then head left and up to finish as for Tuscan Raider.

Start as TATJYALF but blast right into Sebulba. Save some gas in the tank for the crux mantle!

Start on the big pocket near the arete, just out of the cave. Blast up high to the lip on some cool powerful moves. A mighty huge commiting throw guards this beast. Bring a fresh pair of undies for the top. Rap inspecting the mantle may be a good idea.

Super committing line on the slab just to the right of the main cave. High with the crux at the top-out. Not the hardest line in the cave definitely the most serious. Prep really well for this problem. Skull n cross bones with poop everywhere.

The very obvious and scary looking rounded arete that splits the crag in two. Have fun and be safe. Serious poo territory.

Changed with First Ascentionist permission.

start on the big sloper rail as for star jug, up to the good rail then left into the undercling, pull through some side pulls to the mega jug then up and right for a few moves to a jug finish. Direct version of Star Jug (don't use the bucket jugs on the far left).

Sit start below “Jabba the promiscuous space slug” on the middle of the rail. Straight up, veering right to finish matched on “Gravel Pit” jug.

Starts same as Gravel Pit, except head right and finish as for TIE Fighter.

Extension to gravel pit, up the corner to top out. A bit poopy.

Climb Gravel Pit, then climb directly left into Jabbas jug. Much better movement than Star Jug Destroyer.

Start on jug at bottom left of cave, traverse right then up on thin face holds, before powerful move to gain big finishing jug.

An extension to Gravel Pit, keep climbing as to top out on A Mystery Unravel It, just before the lip travers right finish on the big jug

Start on the Gravel Pit jug, traverse right past the TIE Fighter flake, then continue right moving slightly up on jugs and pockets for hands, heel hooks and toe cams for feet. Then climb Horned Banthas to its finishing jug. With this many moves, it would be more appropriately graded 22.

Start at base of flake (same start as TIE Fighter) at the back of the cave, traverse left along flakes to finish at big jug on arete.

Start at base of flake at the back of cave, follow flake upwards to finish at end of flake.

Start on mega jug at the base of cave, climb through beautiful jug ladders, end on large jug pocket at the top where layers end.

Start on good flake at the start of the crack in the wall, straight up past crack line to horn finishing on jug just above.

Start to the right of Horned Banthas Half way up, on the good jug rail just right of the pocket. Dyno straight up to the finish top jug of Banthas. One move wonder, feet are out, blast off like Boba Fett

https://www.instagram.com/p/CtXw4wgrTf7/

Sit start on the jug of You're Too Old To Be A Jedi. Traverse left onto slopers then up one level to the shelf above. Continuing traversing left until you join Horned Banthas half way up. Finish on final hold of Horned Banthas.

Starts on large jug on far right of cave, follow big features straight up to finish on ledge halfway up wall. The grade is for the descent.

Start as for 'Long Live Short People' then bust up and right through thin gastons and crimps to top out. Only holds right of the thin seem leading from the starting pocket are allowed. Obviously, the fallen tree is out.

Sit start with left hand in obvious low pocket between predominant flake and black log. Straight up to finish the same as 'Not a V1'. Holds right of the thin seam leading up the wall from the pocket are out.

Start on top edge of predominant flake, step up and right on good edges to top.

Start on high edge and go straight up. Dominant flake of 'Not a V1' is out.

Mantle big triangular sloper.

Start as for Glen's V4 then traverse right on slopers and crimps and mantle out.

Straight up obvious groove, kinda scary, kinda funky but real good.

Jimmy Blackhall

Stand-start as for “Glen's V4” heading to the ball/pinch, then traverse left, across the arch- blasting up to a line of ming’in slopes. Finish up left with a high spicy mantle. The holds after the ball/pinch on Glen’s V4 are not in.

Start at low break, then up to slopey rail, huck to gaston pocket over lip and finish as for 'Sasquatch'.

Start as for times up but head straight up via huge dyno

One of the hardest problem's in Queensland. This is the amazing line in the middle of the wall.

Start in obvious low pocket, head up and right past sloper and finish just left of times up.

Hasn't seen many repeats since the FA and doesn't seem very logical at V10. Only time will tell

The middle/left line on “Superhard wall” from the big slopey pocket straight up. The tiny crux crimp has been broken since its original ascent by Oliver Miller. Has now been resent by Sam Bowman in it's new harder state.

The thin crux gaston hold is continually breaking and reforming.

Start as for remember to forget, then bust left from slopey pocket to finish up the Barn Owl. Still a project

Start in huge hueco then head right into seam and finish straight up.

Start up right hand hueco and head straight up for a commiting finish, spotters required.

Start up left hand hueco and finish straight up for an easy but committing problem.

Grab the lip, find the good sloper and mantle.

Longer version of Redbank Gillete Mach 3 that traverses further up the lip.

Jump to slopey rail and mantle. A stretch beforehand is advised.

Starting with the left side pull up to the rail, mantle finish.

Right side arete on back of dejableau boulder. Start standing with arete and mono.

Start the same as Dejableau but head up and finish on the right side of the boulder. It is important that you weight the wall as statically as possible. Jumping or hopping off the ground definitely changes the grade.

Blank slab starting of the right side of the boulder (standing on rock) heading left to finish above 'Bowl of Doom'. It is important that you weight the wall as statically as possible. Jumping or hopping off the ground definitely changes the grade.

Stand-Start as BOD (RH in bowl) except LH down low on good hold (side pull) and left foot on wall. Straight up then traversing right on small edges. The whole lip left off the little shrub is out. Finish on jugs under the rock stack, highest point of boulder (the same finish as The non-friction section)

Start both hands in obvious bowl on left hand side of slab. Finish straight up.

Sit started on large flat hold. Straight up to crimp and cool set of pockets, then up to a large ledge. The top involves a funky mono sinker and a breezy mantle.

Stand Start left of W.B.Y.H.B with incut LH hold and RH undercling. Straight up to pleasant pockets and a high top out on slopes above.

Sit start with hands on a big flake, then up to crimpy rail. Mantle up and reach for a big jug for easy top out.

Start right of brave heart In the obvious corner, straight up to exciting slopey top out.

Start up the obvious corner as in Unknown, but like Chicken Run, traverse to the easy exit to the left.

Up slab to friendly pockets and very committing finish.

As for Brave Heart, but get scared at top and scurry left between boulders for an easy escape.

Immediately right of 'Gift of the Gab' on the small face. Straight up on good edges. Avoid the crack further right.

Sit start, as low as possible on sidepulls - moving up the arete about 200 metres before Superhard wall in a small cluster of easier problems. There is two variants of this line. RH side finish or straight up finish- both are hard and both are graded V6-V8. It depends on what side of the arete you climb!

Two hand start on ledge directly below obvious pocket which serves as the finish to Wolf. Up to pocket then traverse right 1m. From here up via the obvious in cut ledge. V3 due to exposure and insecurity. Probably V2 difficulty.

Start at Fox traverse right a coupleof meters then top out

A Traverse from start of Fox cross under Raven finish on single pocket

Straight up just to the right of small cave, take care with the top out.

Start as for Lazarus but rather than topping out Too Soft, continue traversing along lip. Top out at the highest point of the cave directly above the large boulder on the ground.

Sit start on good holds, move through a pair of friendly pockets and continue to an interesting mantle.

Start in big Hueco and traverse left into Polar Express

Start as for Orient Express and blast straight up out of the cave. Cleaned with Matt's hands on first ascent...May need a brush still.

Sit-Start as for Polar Express, climbing through the overhang directly into a prominent undercling before gaining an enormous jug directly over the small boulder in the middle of the cave and topping out. The pocket nearly directly above the rail, and just below the lip, is out.

Start inside the cave mid-way in (to the right side - first possible sit start) on obvious holds. Follow the big rail and finish as for Too Soft.

Yes it's another linkup. Climb Flying Frenchwoman to the finishing hole of Aiokiasof. Shake out, then reverse and climb Orient Express to top out as for Lazarus.

Climb “The Flying Scotsman” (the inside rail opposite side of Orient Express) but instead of finishing on Too Soft, climb Aiokiasof. Campus training helps! FA and beta clip- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyWWiJhWKp8

Sit Start inside on the right side of the cave on two pinches. Pull on- stem out to the large rail (the inside rail on the opposite side of Orient express), then campus and heelhook your way out to “Too softs” mantle. Pull on to the rail for a more natural start and you can have a 4.

Start this sandbag on the obvious jug pockets in the middle back of the cave (Metro’s start which is right of Shinkansen). Do the drop down move of Metro onto the rail that is exiting the cave (climb Aiokiasof with the foot stab Crux) then out up polar express through the pocket and on to hang finish at the ledge.

Start on massive pocket and traverse out left, finishing up Too Soft.

[eliminate] The stunning line at the entrance of the cave. Start at middle of Orient Express and blast straight out of cave through blank section. eliminates the big sidepull on the right side.

Links Supa Chief into Orient Express. Climb Supa Chief to the starting holds of Orient Express, then climb that line to top out as for Lazarus. Harder than the normal finish of Supa Chief, and pumpy!

Start at the back of the cave, right of 'Shinkansen' on obvious holds. Traverse right on the jugs until they end, then head across the first and then the second "gap" pulling some hard moves to finish doing 'Polar Express'. Pumpy!

Start on the mushroom hold in the middle, back of the cave. A drop down move get's you onto the big shelve. Reach under for Orient Express pockets. Finish as Shinkasen. Pumper.

Start matched on small crimp 1m L of ZZ. Shoot to crimp in the roof. From here, the hands follow only the thin crack until you reach the catch hold from the ICCCY dyno. Link into ZZ to finish and top out. Easier variations likely exist where the hands deviate from the thin crack. FA used only the crack for hands.