Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Similar start as to RoP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing.

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'.

Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid if leading. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

Start at the "K" mark.

Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start at the "FOBS" mark.

Hard overhung start then more easily up past 6 RBs to DBB.

This daunting line is simply magnificent. Up the twin cracks on locks and jams that would leave a poet short for words. From here, continue up to where the cracks merge to form a single, steep, fingers to fists crack. A hard move to the ledge provides a classic sting in the tail.

Brilliant. A desperate little move out of the cave sees you to a stance. Blast up this to a difficult thin section at half height. Grunt up the top to the ledge. Constantly interesting with bombproof gear all combine to make this route deservedly popular!

An absolute classic test piece locking and jamming problem. A hard start gains a stance at 2m. From here, climb the unrelenting corner with excellent gear, stances and locks. Keep plugging and moving like a punch-drunk boxer, as the lactic acid build-up ever so surely creeps up on you. There are just enough stances and holds to keep you from being reduced to a whimpering mess. A DBB can be found above the ledge as you top out.

Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!

Hard start. Up steep wall past five U-bolts, keeping R of bulge at the top, to double U-bolt belay. Holds have broken off the start, increasing the grade from 18.

The only non-steep warmup here. Stickclip. Stemming moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to double rings.

Brilliant! Start up the off-width to a ledge at 4m (alternatively, you can start up HG for 4m and then step L onto the same ledge). From there up the awesome finger crack with excellent face holds and locks to a thin crux at half height. From there, up the hand and fist crack to a ledge. Go up the broken corner at the back and right to double rings. Bring second rope to get down.

Sit-Start to the left of the cave entrance and follow the obvious holds along the lip. Finish as for Too Soft. Beta- https://youtu.be/AhPA2D2BDb4

The central line on the clean face left of the cave with the basketball sized huecos. Fun and engaging climbing. Don’t forget to fondle the nostrils mid route.

Starts 3m right of Yesterdays Hero in the small enclave. Thin start up the slab to engaging ground above. Anchor on right of crack.

A very popular route, and deservedly so. Up the classic line on superb finger locks and jams to an easy but grotty chimney finish. To rap, either use chains on SA (left) or YGH (right). Easiest way is the tree directly above the route that will get you back to Warlock ledge with a 70m rope.

An amazing route that is a must do. Up the tricky start to a ledge. Step L into the bottomless chimney, doing some funky moves up the corner. A desperate bulge at the top of this groove provides loads of excitement, as well as the crux. Flop with much joy onto the ledge. Belay is possible here. A tricky move off the ledge gains a small crack which eases off very quickly. Up the obvious line above to a ledge and rap rings.

Straight up the centre of the chimney working your way in and out of a series of scoops. 9 hangers to anchors. Chossy start but gets better. Belayer wear a helmet!

Start as for 'Grey Nurse'.

Head straight up face after clipping 1st UB shared with 'Grey Nurse'. Nice moves up corner in 2nd half to below roof then an exhilarating push through roof to finish at DBB on prow. 5 UBs total. Great climbing and almost as fun to watch!

A new warm-up option. Up TDLW for four UBs. Instead of traversing right as for TDLW, go straight up past another three UBs into the cave. Finish atop the diving board (double U-bolts). Lower-off.

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.

Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by RB 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past RB then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 RBs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with a rebolt.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start 2m L of 'FOBS'.

6 RBs. Shares final RB & DBB with 'FOBS'.

10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

Sit start at base of obvious flake, up flake trending left to top out.

One of the most impressive lines on the cliff. Bridge up the line until the pillar stops. Step into the crack and blast up the ever widening crack. Chock stones and large gear can protect the top body chimney adequately.

Marked by the initials "AA" for Artificial Aura, which was the climb's actual name (so named because it looked so ridiculously hard, but actually went quite easily). The route, however, had been named Cock Crack, and through the ages, no doubt due to Alzheimer's, alcohol and drug abuse, the names were swapped and Cock Crack was re-born! Climb the widening hand crack to a stance. Up the wide section by chimney moves or very classy and thin bridging to where the crack closes again. Motor up the brilliant crack and arete on super holds to finish. Big gear essential. Finish at the chains for Infinity.

Start on good holds on prominent bulge under and to the L of the high ferns.

Brilliant face climbing up the thin face on the far L of the ledge. Despite appearances, protection is excellent throughout the whole climb (provided you have RPs), and it is a must do at the grade.

Good face climbing up the broken orange wall. Protection is spaced. Climb off left to anchors of Pixel Princess.

Stand-start on the right side of the small cave- left of The Downfallen. Head up and slightly right on good holds.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd RB then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing 2 RB's. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Edit: This run out can be protected with a number 5 nut in the top of the crack to the left of the first ledge after the second clip.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start on good right sidepull, up and bounce across L to rail, then top out straight up or up R.

Start: Shares first bolt with Elite Rebuplican Guard. Caution: Clipping the first bolt can be difficult if you have a short reach.

A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. Head slightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock clip five more bolt's to anchor. Steeper than it looks.

Sit start, up trending right on the slab with a high pocket then top out.

Fun juicy dyno from hold in the middle up to jug.

This long-neglected corner offers brilliant bridging and jamming up a long sustained line! Bridge up the initial corners to the cave at 2/3rd height. A hard move around this to the top, and many celebration beers at the "Doogs". Rap chains on the pillar.

Start on good holds on the lip of cave. Continue through mantle top-out.

Start at Jacked and move out R along shelf and straight up over the 9 painted onto the rock.

The 2nd Last route at the cliff, 2m left of the small alcove. 8 Ubolts to chain anchor, consistent and not obvious climbing.

Stand start on good edge, head straight up on decent holds.

Start of great undercling at the back, hard move up and the easy traverse left and top out.

SS. Pull up, slap to large sidepull then throw for bulbous sloper and mantle. For 4 Vermin points instead, crank directly straight up to the bulb.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Gynaecology', staying right of the bolt line. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

Starts 2m to the right of "Entergalactic Ceiling". Give your eyes time to adjust. Interesting climbing into the back of the cave.

If you wish to log this climb, please do as at Odin II. This climb was regraded to a 21 after the "magic block" was dislodged in June 2017. Odin remains as a historical relic, to record the ascents of those who did it during the "magic block" era.

This classic climb used to be the test piece for all budding rock gods in the 1970's. Up the initial orange crack system to a stance below the "magic block". A tricky move above this into a narrow groove. The hand and fist crack above keeps you puffing the whole way! Hard for the grade.

Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.

3m L of Remains Of The Day.

1. 30m (18) Trends ever so slightly left. Awkward and a wee bit exciting with long runouts. Scamper quickly up easy ground to single ring and double ring anchor.

2. 30m (17) Trends quite a way towards the left, avoid the ancient relic carrot and hanger at about half way. Mind the choss before the belay.

3. 20m (20) Up through some bad rock to small roof, left and up with balance and strong manoeuvres to once again encounter easier ground above the bulge.

4. Pitch 4 options: 4a) 35m (17) Wander right off the belay, up the steep gully and skirt under overhang then continue up using a couple of chimney moves or brave the face out to the right. Up slab to step left onto stoney ledge, up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge. This pitch is very wandery and should not be rappelled. 4b) 28m (24) From belay, head straight up and over slab passing a single ring and chain belay. Continue left up the tricky overhanging corner and pull the lip with a few punchy moves. over the lip head right through shrubbery to a DBB on a bushy ledge.

5. 25m (16) Up from belay avoiding the 'less than inspiring rock'. Move across left to gain easier ground around a gentle corner.

6. 25m (14) Up and gingerly step left across gap continuing up and then right avoiding the hanging blocks, very easy ground to the top of the ridge, look for the Airtime rap and belay hangers over on the left, they are on vertical rock under an overhang. Don't climb any higher as rap becomes problematic from here. You would also need trad gear to continue to the top on the top pitch of Airtime.

Ten sport draws are sufficient however two additional long or extending draws would help to smooth out rope drag in places. Take a 70m rope if intending to link pitches.

Rap using one of the options:

A) Rap back down route.

From Airtime anchors rap by walking backwards along tip toe ridge trending slightly to the right (looking back up the ridge) to the bushy ledge anchors at the top of the 4th pitch. Rap from the top of the 4th pitch by walking back left i.e. down the alternate (24) pitch not down the (17) pitch, you can rap to the 3rd pitch DBB by doing it this way. From the top of the 3rd pitch rap to the top of the second pitch, you'll have to rap past the rap anchors due to the overhanging nature of the terrain, climb about 2 metres back up to the DBB. From here you can either rap to the ground via an intermediate rap chain half way directly down or continue rappelling down via the 1st pitch by rapping to the end of your rope and carefully walking 10m to the right to the DBB anchor of the 1st pitch. Due to the rappels being not straight down be mindful to not let go of your rope when anchoring in at DBB's. You should only need one 60 metre rope for climbing and rappelling if you follow instructions.

B) Down Airtime Over Pumicestone.

2x 60m ropes required. Straight down the bushy gully for about 40m. Then small belay ledge on left. Straight abseil to hanging belay under a tiny overhang on right. Then rap to ground.

Sit-start at the bottom of the crack using obvious block. Head up left, following the crack and making use of good features on the face.

Start as for 'Serenade For Rings'.

Don't clip the retro BR at the top of the 'SFR' slab. Instead head R and up past 3 RBs. Finish at the anchors shared with 'SFR'.

Start as for Meteor. Traverse to the right before topping out on Galaxy.

The Orange streak- SS with tricky mantle top out

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

Sit start with large L sidepull up to huge cave hold, then straight up to R of fig on good holds

Start on good flake at the start of the crack in the wall, straight up past crack line to horn finishing on jug just above.

Stand-start using flake, then straight up with some nice footless sections.

Sit start on the right side of the little cave. LH on slopper pinch jug- right on sidepull crack- feet start on dish underneath the RH crack. Ascend

The nice handcrack leading to a ledge and offwidth to the right of Elastic Rurp. Big gear essential if you don't want to run it out above the ledge and manky old pin. The 'elegant solution' to the offwidth mentioned in Andy Martin's description probably involves some kind of prancing about on edges like a sport climber. This sort of thing can be avoided with good old fashioned thrutching and struggling.

Even whispering the name of this route has struck panic and fear into the heart of many an aspiring leader. Up the ever widening off-width to the L of SA. Specially cut lengths of pipe were originally used to protect this visionary route. Big Bros and large cams (and plenty of them) should keep the Grim Reaper at bay nowadays! Jeans and a footy jersey would be a handy addition to the rack of any would be ascentionist.

Juicy holds, and chipped holds over the high mantle.

1. 30m (20) Bloody awesome. Really well bolted and keeps you thinking all the way. There's an optional large wire or 0.75 cam if you're having trouble getting to the first FH. As for Big Empty for the first three bolts, then break out right and follow the line of FHs leading up and right to DBB.

2. 15m (18) Cross over Short and Sweet (reach out left and clip Walk the Line's first FH with a long sling). Head up Circlet clipping its first RB. Instead of reaching left to clip the second RB, continue directly up the wall past two FH's. Follow big holds leftwards around the arête and up (FH) until you reach an anchor in a grand position. From the anchor, it's 35m rappel to the ground or two raps if you stop at the pitch 1 anchor.

The first route ever climbed at Frog! Good bridging with adequate pro despite appearances. Excellent technical chimney climbing at the top as it narrows to a body crack. It helps to keep all your gear on a sling on your L hip! The first ascent actually skipped the top chimney by going L onto the face.

Probably the toughest 20 at Frog if you can't climb off-widths! Disregard this if you have a foot-long beard and 20-year-old EB boots in your possession. Up the brilliant hand crack to the off-balance, off-width through two bulges. Big cams keep things sane. Really impressive climbing!

Starts same as Gravel Pit, except head right and finish as for TIE Fighter.

U-bolts. Up the slab and trend right until it steepens. Shares high anchor with previous route.

L to cobble cup and up into undercling in cave for good holds to top

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Start on top of the boulder leaning against the cliff.

Very well protected with 12 bolts, DUBB. Rap/belay from ring #12.

Start at the small corner R of Sabrasucker. Bridge up this to a desperate little move onto the ledge. From here motor up one of the best and most pure cracks there is at Frog to the next ledge. It is best to get off here by stepping L through the chimney and rapping off as for Sabrasucker. If you must continue, add 20m, take off all the stars, lose all the enjoyment of the last 20m and thrash up some pretty ordinary climbing to the top.

Reach for holds or use large hole to reach holds, which is harder. Can use undercling to find holds.

Start just right of the 'T' for Trojan. The access pitch to In Between Dreams and Summit Sutra. Balance start to some stemming moves.

Sit start on good edges, straight to the top and mantle. Stand start goes at V0.

Straight up, using the L arête and flake to the R. Mantle out.

Crag classic of the easier problems. Stand start on crimps, then head up and left to arete to topout.

Rebolted. A rising traverse which begins on the gritty apron to the left. Crappy rock in the lower half soon gives way to more solid terrain with a few delicate, balancy moves.

Steep arete on pinnacle. What it lacks in length it makes up for with exposure and pumpiness! Use 1+mtr slings on anchors if lowering or alternatively abseil off to clean.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- December)

First move is R hand up and right. Feet low under the bulge.

Traverse up the L arête and traverse L

Follow the textbook hand crack (if only it was 10 times longer...)

Or cheat and face climb it to avoid the crack.

Straight up, using only the flake to top.

Sit start at the base of the arete, left of slab the slab wall. There is a small pocket for right hand low on arete. Follow arete keeping feet smeared slab, avoid use of left hand face. Perfect hold halfway. Rails just left of arete on face are in for V1, out for V2. Topout at top of arete.

Right pinch on the bulge, up with left and then tenuous mantle

Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A".

Up past 3 RBs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.

Sit start with right hand on side pull and left on crimp. Throw right to high pocket and top out through the smooth blankness.

Stand start with good side pull and small edge, head straight up. Sit start goes at V6.

Jug start with good feet, traverse left through one long move and then up slab.

Start 1m to the left of Robin on good right hand hold and left heel, go straight up and slightly right.

Exciting start moves followed by pleasant jug haul to top. Requires bolt plates. One bolt is too close to the rock to accept a plate, but is in an easy section close to another bolt so protection is OK.

Start: Not sure if there has been some rockfall, but it no longer seems safe to traverse onto the starting platform from the left. Accessible by climbing up the first two bolts of Overhanging Corner.

Stand start on good side pull and sloper, straight up.

Start on slope under-cling on the inside of the cave then work your way along the easy traverse, when you reach the end of the traverse reverse and traverse along the top of the boulder. Top out in the middle of the boulder.

Start at the big bifurcated box tree 50m R of the 'Me And My Dog' clearing.

1. 40m (19) The first bolt sticks out with a neck as long and graceful as a swan. Climb up through the bulge (crux) to the ledge, U bolt and bolt belay.

2. 35m (20) Straight up, take care at the top, touching the loose blocks for balance only. Belay at rings 19 & 20.

Sit start from undercling then follow the three big holds up. SHARP jug up top.

Start in the middle on some pockety side pulls, traverse slightly left on jugs and straight up to mantle. Sit start on a few nice crimps for a few more moves at the same grade.

Next wide strip of lichen to R of 'White streak'. Sit start with obvious good foot left and jugs.

A direct version of European man cave, sit starting left on a good RH sidepull and cool LH pockets. Joins EMC at the massive jug flake 3/4 of the way up.

Starts a few meters to the right of Bruce and Nemo. Stick clip the first bolt. A climb needing some thought.

Start on the good left hold and traverse right and then up.

Stand start using edges, head straight up to good slopers on the top and mantle.

Start just R of 'Gigolo' / 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Follow line of 3 BRs up R side of thin slab to anchor shared with 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Sit start with good right hand edge and low side pull, straight up for a nice short problem.