Routes in Queensland

Links Straight out of Compton into the Dead Wrong Project, busting left just before you reach the dream block. Links V12 (Straight out of Compton without moves to Dream block) into V10+ bouldering for a total of around 21 steep burly moves.

one of SEWQ's hardest lines, sit start. Detached left boulder is out.

Sit start on the big undercling below the start of crooks and castles and heads straight up to finish on good block 1 m from top of cave.

Guess this needs a new name. Low start on the first of the monos and the obvious incut edge, with a pretty crucial toehook. Climb straight through the roof for a few moves before finishing up The V7. One of QLD's new hardest boulders.

Possibly lives up to the name. It would appear that holds have broken since Brad S and Nick W first documented this boulder. A powerful, aggressive crimp boulder that needs a repeat to reconfirm the grade. Would appear at least V11.

Sit Start on good two finger side pull and crimp. Hard first moves left into small crimps, then finish as for ‘Kiss My Witness’.

Brad S and Nick W (Pictures on StrandedClimbers.Blogspot.com.au)

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

No sure if it goes. Start The Seam and stay in the it all the way. Two more bolts allow to link directly to the upper wall of Spoonman.

Start on LH pinch and RH undercling, up through shouldery dihedral before finishing as for storm chasers.

The wobbly block recently came out, but the boulder will still go at a similar grade.

Sit start matched on the flat jug. Move up and right through heel/toe trickery on slick river washed edges and small seams. All time.

Mega roof fridge, start on the arete and crimp following the arete until holds start apearing up the face.

Sit start on small edge at back of cave. Head up and right to dream block before climbing a few more easier moves to finish below lip of cave.

Climb the obvious fridge feature. deep from in the cave. Slap side to side and try and work out the wacky puzzle at the lip. Don't get swallowed up by the giant monster!!

One of the hardest problem's in Queensland. This is the amazing line in the middle of the wall.

[eliminate] The stunning line at the entrance of the cave. Start at middle of Orient Express and blast straight out of cave through blank section. eliminates the big sidepull on the right side.

Hard line right of wrestle mania starting very low and eventually blasting through the roof. Its all there!

Same sit start as antique roadshow prom but head right till you link into the V4 arete. A 60 degree sloper guards this beast.

This was previously ‘Kiss My Witness’ V6. Holds broke and alas was a project for some time before a “post break repeat” grade confirmation.

Start with both hands on low incut rail. Follow obvious break straight up and finish as for ‘Silent Witness'

The insane, thin, finger crack that splits the whole cave in half, straight down the middle. Sit start the start of the crack at the very back of the cave and figure out the insanity. Very possible

Bouldery start on tiny slopers and a shallow hueco. Once over the lip do Friction Addictions

Start matched on obvious flat hold. Tricky moves through slopey holds lead to tough move into the slot. Use small LH crimp to gain the big sloping rail, follow it left and up above questionable landing. Bush-bash to the top.

Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. The landing needs rebuilding.

Callum Mather

Start low on undercling, puzzle your way through the steep and finish as for Tadpole.

Start matched on the sharp micro-crimp/pinch flake, then fire of onto a series of increasingly desperate slopey crimps, before busting to the jug and mantling out.

Stand start on distinct sidepull, executing a powerful set of moves to a show-stopping long move. How it ends was anybody's guess ... until visiting Canadian Simon Parton showed everyone how it's done in 2016 in the inaugural Passchendaele V1 Bouldering Festival.

Stand start on right crimp pinch and low left crimp. Go through small crimpy pinches until easy top.

Start with left hand on the right hand start hold of "Straight out of Compton". Right hand on jug. From there punch straight up to the prominent pinches of "The V11" and finish on the dream block.

Sit start on good small block and good edge. Head straight back the trend left to finish on dream block. Hard and sustained.

Sit start on big undercling and good pinch at the far back of the middle of the cave. Head straight up and out of the steepest part of the cave on some very slopey holds and good underclings. Finish matched on the dream block.

Start as for times up but head straight up via huge dyno

Links 'Gone for Borneo' into If the 'If the Shoe Slips'

Start left hand on the arete, right hand on lower crimp. Overhanging arete above the small pool near the entrance as you approach super overhanging wall.

And on the sixth day Bo created this line. Start in a casual laying down position with hands on the left and right crimp rails. do not start matched on the left crimp as it takes a grade or two off. bring plenty of skin

Climb 'Astrobatics', then keep girdling to the right across Mr Meeseeks until you end up at the end of Desperado. The longest and hardest route in the cave.

All the moves had been done but no one was able to take care of this one until a climber from Scotland, Robbie Phillips visited Queensland. He sent the route on his last day in the country thereby establishing Queensland's current hardest Sport route.

Bouldery start trending left on line of weakness, before joining into BTHTF at the bolt below the headwall (ignore bolts out right which need to be removed).

Robbie re-named "Taking Care of Business Project" to "Haggisaurus Rex" due to the Dinosaur skin-like nature of the rock and the fact that Robbie only ate Haggis the whole time he was in Australia to maintain his Scottish Highlander Powers! Rumour has it they shipped 70 whole Haggis' to Australia just for Robbie..."

Townsville's first 5.14! The king reigns supreme.

Un-climbed open project. FH on the main face lead the way up a slightly over hanging, blank looking face, following a faint seam feature. No DBB.

Climb Plumbus and keep trucking left into the hard end crux of astrobatics.

Mega extension of 'Event Horizon'. After the last draw of 'Event Horizon' head right across cheese blocks and then continue right and then up the compact head wall.

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA.

Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur.

Climb TFVOM to the off width of RP then blast straight back right into a thin pebble belt. Next is a huge dyno then some blankness going right. At this point it could keep going towards pebble or straight up to anchor right of RP. Hard to know at this point. Bloody hard

Sit-start just right of "Globalisation Left" on the low edge. One of Harvey's hardest problems. See the original guidebook for the starting holds.

Sit start on jug, move right through thin seam before doing a big move to arete. Hold the barn door and mosey to the top.

Start under roof to the right of the seam on an undercling and low left facing edge. Join the crack via a big lock off move and finish as for Bodega.

Squat start on slopey edge and pinch, head up and left to a tricky lip encounter.

Starting on good horizontal rail

Sit start low on the arete adding some really fun moves into the stand start.

The rippled face, on the left, medium sized bloc. Sit start with sidepull RH and LH on bad crimp. Punchy moves up the face and left arete. Slab to the left is out and watch those awkward landings.

Hard bouldery sit start on pinches, traversing right and up into '$53'.

Start as for 'The Big Zee', then head right and up on crimps and slopers. It's excellent. Fingery and powerful. Beta video https://vimeo.com/42103468

Start on poor rail then big move up to slot, then to victory jug.

Same as for Crooks and Castles, except starting from the lowest under cling possible.

Rad sit-start on block under roof to small undercling, then punch to cool looking flake. Sooo bloody awesome and burly. Make sure you have a fair few pads.

Used to be the Jango fett project, but our authenticity checks clarified that Jango was never actually on tatooine we think. Unless he went there on a holiday at some point, but seriously who would go to mos eisley for a holiday, so it's kind of unlikely.

Start in obvious low pocket, head up and right past sloper and finish just left of times up.

Hasn't seen many repeats since the FA and doesn't seem very logical at V10. Only time will tell

Start sitting, then move up the crack before moving right on some small edges to get to the lip. Be careful mantling out.

Sit-start on barely there holds, moving left into mono's and finish on jug below ferns.

This climb has a confusing history which had an original description of '??' . General consensus is to start at "Bulge" and traverse left with hands going up over the lip at "The Rick White Problem", then back down at "The Plum". Ends with mantling and topping out as per "Gaston". A power-endurance test-piece

Absolute cracker of a one move wonder. Start on incut edge in middle of wall. Do a big move to good edge, match, then finish up an easy mantle (as for 'Kiss the Witness'). Definitely harder for those challenged in the ways of the span.

start sitting down with your right hand in pocket and left on the little crimp on the outside left of the pocket. blast up leftwards, slopey madness, fantastic.

Corey Batten

Start as for dreadnaught 2 hands in the undercling with feet on the rock below and then dyno straight out to the big jug then mantle from it and finish as for dreadnaught.

Seems like you’d have to hit it with both hands at once to hold it. BRING MATS AND SPOTTERS *is a contrived route

super hard route made harder by the height, start on crimps just over lip of rooflet, hard move moving onto headwall, followed by some serious crimping.

Super crimper! Start right hand and heel on the sandy flake and left hand on the good crimp. Punch your way up through some bad crimps and spring into a glory jug to finish. Please don’t brush the sandy right start self to much it needs to be sealed. it’s endlessly sandy and with out it the problem may be impossible. Update: An attempt has been made to preserve the flake, as it was crumbling a little more with every attempt.

Corey Batten

Good start hold, up to thin crimps, ooze up to arete and then top.

http://vimeo.com/19953904

An outstanding hard line.

The extension to "Kendra's Roof", continuing past the mushroom via a roof crux and then up a desperate slab above the terrifying drop away landing.

Start in a sit start- with the obvious large side pull and bust some incredibley powerful moves that lack footholds into No Mans Land.

rubbish rock down low. Be gentle with the start hold, if it breaks the climb will be totally different. hard to grade this one feels easy sometimes, absolutely impossible other times.

Note: the FA was done doing the final dead point with feet up on starting hand holds (not from the bottom band of rock on the ground) it may or may not be possible from the low feet and may or may not change the grade.

Start as for Red Hood's Revenge, climbing into the reverse of Bane to exit the cave and blast up and right to finish as for Electric Bat Mobile. An undoubtably worthy villain for the Bat

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.

Next level effort! The extension to Transcontinental, climb that route and keep cranking.

The original start to Desperado!

Start up Terminus for 4 bolts then head left and grab the Dinglebop then reach up and put your fingers into the Krumbo. Once through the boulder chalk up with a bunch of Shleem as you are now on Desperado and still have a fair bit of climbing to go. Now power all the way to the top making sure to find the rests as your Fleeb juice will be pumping! Continue to the anchors and be a master of the Plumbus.

Start-up Gladiator, after the crux, climb leftwards on to Taking Care of Business variation, at last jug enjoy a hard low traverse left into the crimpy ending Friction Addiction. This route is fantastic with a great mix of climbing and is a classic link-up well worth doing.

Up Thriller till the second last bolt and then step right into friction addictions hard ending. Super pumpy classic.

Start up Thiller, climb across to 'Bite The Hand That Feeds' and to the chains.

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Insane bouldering.

Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!

Start up the bolts to the right of Reverse Psychology. Linking into RP after the 4th bolt following thin seam. Hard!!!

Climbs the smooth wall straight above Fruit Bat.

Slightly over hanging face, start on the lowest point of obvious rail (slightly flexing be careful). Definitely use a pad on the slab for when climber is topping out.

This is one of the original lines put up by Zimmerman. Original line used just the right layback seam, but would effectively make it an eliminate. the first move to the high layback puts you body in a position to use a compression move off of Reverie, then climbing both seams to the blank section. The Crux is from here to the top as originally described, But is considerably easier than the original grade of V9. Regardless, this is of equal quality to Reverie and is a must do. (Original description = Just to the R of "Highball #1" is a V9, with the crux at the top (start at the break and go up via lay offs to a thin section).)

The line up the 45degree wall with a big move to get to lip, easier terrain after. Take lots of pads.

Start on first boulders face to gain the bottom of the boulder sitting above, follow up crack like feature and up. Requires some commitment.

SS on LH flake. Powerful movements.

SS for “High Society”

Hard move on face with slab over the lip keeping it interesting, trends upward right on the slab. Might need to move some pads around. Another great line put up by Andy Lampard.

An inspiring line with powerful moves. Start off the obvious RH ear and the crystallised LH sidepull.

A mega classic! Start just R of "Skippy With a Smile" with your LH on a high pinch and RH on a terrible slopey scoop. Up via small holds and two hard moves. If you jump start to right hand razor and skip the hard static start it's a V8.

Face just right of Morning Glory following tricky gastons for a rounded mantle for top out. Watch your head on the large dead tree.

Start off block, head straight through the roof to a big move before veering left and up. The top is very overgrown so feel free to use a vine to mantle. Amazing boulder!

Stand start on pinches

Callum Mather

Sit start on edges. Make your way right and up through a big deadpoint, finish up thin crack.

Start on wide edges with a left heel hook. Puzzle your way through the abundance of gastons and the assortment of edges and underclings to reach the lip and the tricky mantle that awaits. Finish rightwards up the tall slab.

Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. There's a rock in the way that could be moved by a couple people.

Sit start under roof on an undercling and low left facing edge. Out via good rail to a big move from the sloper into TOA, finish as for this.

Sit start in back of cave in ‘corner’ with pair of slots in crack. Follow crack up and to corner then out to cave's perimeter via big move. Work to top via series of holds along lip. Top out using upper slab holds.