Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
16 | ★★★ Muesli
Start: Start on the left side of the orange wall. Nice continuous climbing up the flake. Gain a rest on the ledge and continue up the arete. FA: Col Reece & Mike Round, 1972 | 18m | Morialta | ||
21 | ★★★ Extra G
Very nice sustained wall climb. Start: Start as for muesli and continue for 6 metres to where 2 small horizontals allow you step out on to the wall to the right. Climb over a small bulge to reach a thin seam and follow this to where it curls of right. Clip the bolt and go for the top. FA: Tony Barker & Steve Moore | 18m, 1 | Morialta | ||
16 | ★ Asgard
Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route. | 15m | Morialta | ||
12 | ★ Balthazar
The curving corner just left of Boulder Bridge. FA: Iain Allan, John Griffiths & Terry Prime, 1971 | 13m | Morialta | ||
12 | ★ Sheoak Corner
Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route. FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Terry Prime, 1968 | 15m | Morialta | ||
18 | ★★ Illequipt
Climb the wall left of Al Sirrat, starting at a small arete. At half height, step L into the crack. | 14m | Morialta | ||
15 | ★★ Shedidit
Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out. Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall. FA: David Moriarty, Stuart Fishwick & Christine Shedley, 1968 | 13m | Morialta | ||
15 | ★ Lords Prayer
Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner. Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'. | 17m | Morialta | ||
16 | ★★ Plexas
Start: Traverse right from the cave, or start directly up left side of the lower cave. Move up to the detached block and execute a nice move to gain a stance on the block. Follow the well protected corner. FA: Colin Reece, 1975 | 18m | Morialta | ||
18 | ★★ The Billiard Table
| 18m | Morialta | ||
17 R | ★★ Resurrection
Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner. | 14m | Morialta | ||
14 | ★★ Bacchus
This is a must, nice bridging on good rock. Start: The main corner below the sheoak tree. FA: Martin Bell & Alan Coghlan, 1972 | 23m | Onkaparinga | ||
15 | ★ Clea Direct Finish
Start: Climb Clea's well protected crack. Move slightly right from the ledge onto the arete. Continue up moving over the small roof. FA: John Griffiths & Martin Bell, 1971 | 16m | Morialta | ||
16 | ★ Golgotha
Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack. FA: Stuart Fishwick, George Adams & John Dutton, 1970 | 15m | Morialta | ||
20 R | ★★ Digital Input
FA: Gary Scott, Colin Reece & Mark Barnett, 1980 | 19m | Morialta | ||
21 | ★★ Fascination
Up the L wall of the gully following the flakes and cracks. Put some pro in between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Step R for a rest, then back L to the top. The top anchor is two carrots so bring bolt plates. | 16m, 3 | Morialta | ||
22 | ★★★ Barad Dur
Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack. FA: Stuart Fishwick & Richard Horn, 1970 | 20m, 1 | Morialta | ||
18 R | ★★ Brainrack
Start beneath moulded brain shaped hole. Up easily to ledge and into brain, then difficult move to underneath roof. Pull over roof to a rest below a second roof. Surmount this and then continue easily up crack. FA: Quentin Chester (TR), 1979 FFA: David Crisp, 1983 | 19m | Morialta | ||
11 | ★ Clea
Up fist sized crack, trend left and up wide crack. Beginners sometimes bury themselves inside it. FA: Iain Allan & John Griffiths, 1971 | 18m | Morialta | ||
17 | ★ Mt Olive
Start at broad arete marked with "O". Up to stance below roof, move left and mount the protruding flake, finish up the crack above. | 17m | Morialta | ||
11 | ★ Big Sham
| 14m | Morialta | ||
20 | ★★ Bung RHF
The most common way up the wall. Follow 'Bung Original' but do not move back L. Finish up the face between the crack and arete. FA: Unknown | 13m | Morialta | ||
19 | ★★ Tilt
FA: 1980 | 18m | Morialta | ||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance
An exposed outing in a spectacular position. Well protected. Start at the very left end of the wall beneath DOA.
| 50m, 2 | Moonarie | ||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels
| 40m | Moonarie | ||
18 | ★★ Terrathea
The good-looking corner crack just right of 'Sardine'. Cruxy start, then once level with Sardine's 2nd bolt, it eases off (but not completely). Best finished by traversing left to the 'Sardine' chains. FA: Dave McNamara, George Adams & Doug Mclean | 20m | Morialta | ||
8 | ★ Leprosy
FA: 1971 | 15m | Morialta | ||
24 | ★★ Extra G Connection
Start up Geronimo's Cadillac. Traverse left after the first bolt to join Extra G. | 17m, 2 | Morialta | ||
17 | ★★ Absolute Alcohol
Start: Climb the right side of the arete right of Ouzo. Clip the old peg at 8m. Balancy move up left through corner, to a bolt. Follow crack then step right to final arête. FA: Colin Reece, 1976 | 23m, 1 | Onkaparinga | ||
19 R | ★ Popular Miss Conception
FA: Colin Reece, 1976 | 16m | Morialta | ||
20 | ★★ Gladiator
Takes the overhanging line just left of the corner (marked). Climb through the overhanging start (crux) to a stance just under a small roof, then reach out right and climb into the opposing corner. Continue up the line to a layback finish and chains. | 16m, 3 | Morialta | ||
9 | Justine
FA: Iain Allan, 1971 | 19m | Morialta | ||
8 | Cinch
Ledges and large cracks on the R of the asgard wall. The groove through the overhang is awkward. | 14m | Morialta | ||
15 | ★ Ouzo
Despite conspiracy theorist touts that there are incredible runouts the pro is solid in the very small wire range. Swing past Rundle Street and pick up some brass offsets / RP’s then blast up the corner placing fine gear as the face steepens, move left over the bulge before finding another fine wire. Bomber gear ahead, move up and into the crack in the right wall before tackling the summit block head on. Steal a star off Bacchus. FA: Colin Reece (TR), 1972 FFA: Mike Broadbent, 1978 | 22m | Onkaparinga | ||
15 | ★ The Thinker
FA: John Griffiths & Martin Bell, 1971 | 16m | Morialta | ||
15 | ★★★ Flying Buttress
| 110m, 3 | Moonarie | ||
15 | ★★★ Hangover Layback
A Moonarie mega classic, the 3 pitches are all exciting and all very different. Start in corner at left end of overhang at right side of large mossy slab.
The rap chains at the top are awkward to access from above (consider roping up.) From here it is a 30m abseil to the large ledge, then 50m to the ground (second abseil is in an awkward position.) | 90m, 3 | Moonarie | ||
15 | ★★★ Pagoda Variant
1
10
30m
2
13
15m
3
15
15m
4
12
43m
The most popular way to do this exciting route on a mega flake.
| 100m, 4 | Moonarie | ||
17 | ★★ Vortex
Obvious steep line on the left side of the buttress above descent gully. Rap chains at the top of the first pitch. 60m rope will get you back easily. | 45m, 2 | Moonarie | ||
13 | ★ Three Step
Classic Jamming moves through an awkward bulge. FA: Richard Horn et al, 1970 | 12m | Morialta | ||
19 | ★★★ Pine Crack
Originally done with a belay after only 10m, but is now usually done in two 30m pitches. The 1st belay (at 30m) is bolted. Above pitch 2 there are trees and cams to belay off, then walk 10m R on the ledge (best to stay on belay) to carefully access abseil chains (55m to the ground). | 65m, 2 | Moonarie | ||
12 | ★★★ Nervine
Rap chains on top of pitch 3. 60m rap should get you to the ground. | 120m, 5 | Moonarie | ||
21 | ★ Living on the Ceiling
Start 2m right of Mt Olive (marked "O"). Up to stance below roof. Follow thin crack through roof to jugs, hand traverse left around arete then up. FA: Nick Neagle & Mike Brown, 1985 | 17m | Morialta | ||
15 | Arev
FA: 2006 | 14m | Morialta | ||
16 | ★★ Tim Tam
The crack line just left of the callitris. Pass an overhang and remember it's not over until you clip the chains. 30m rope stretcher abseil to the ground. | 30m | Moonarie | ||
19 | ★★ Sticklebrickette
A nice climb with the bolt at the crux. Start: Immediately right of 'Bacchus'. Move around right from the initial undercling. Head up to the bolt over the small roof and follow the crack. FA: Mark Witham, 1986 | 23m, 1 | Onkaparinga | ||
16 | ★ Dropout
FA: Colin Reece | 17m | Morialta | ||
12 | ★ Sauterne
Start: Climb the corner to a peg at 10 metres. Step right just above this to access a big ledge. Carry on directly. FA: Mike Ball & Alan Coghlan, 1972 | 20m | Onkaparinga | ||
19 | ★ Close Your Eyes and Think of England
Start: Easy climbing but with limited protection up to the small roof. Clip the two bolts and finish on some slightly gritty rock. FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1986 | 17m, 2 | Morialta | ||
20 X | ★★ Bung Original
"Original" in that it was the first variant on the wall to go free. Climb 'Bung Direct' to below the crux, step R, make a move up and then back L to the crack. FA: "Hot" Henry Barber, 1975 | 13m | Morialta | ||
19 | ★★ Hard People
Start: Start left of Sandpiper's initial corner and head to the thin seam just right of the arete above. Climb the wall just right of this to reach a shallow niche. Undercling the block above and carry on up the overhanging seam. FA: Mark Witham (TR), 1984 FFA: Sandy Hancock, 1987 | 25m | Onkaparinga | ||
13 | ★★ Garden Refuse Removed Cheaply
| 120m | Moonarie | ||
12 | Armageddon
| 15m | Morialta | ||
17 | ★★ Buckley's
A great finish to Outside Chance. From the cave, move slighty R, stretch up to the 2nd horizontal and then move left to the arete proper. At the ledge, clamber into the scoop from its bottom R and exit at its top left. | 20m | Moonarie | ||
14 | ★ Cue Ball
FA: Martin Bell & Dave Sutton, 1971 | 17m | Morialta | ||
11 | ★ Frontignac
FA: George Adams & Colin Magor, 1972 | 22m | Onkaparinga | ||
20 | ★ Gang of Four
| 20m, 2 | Morialta | ||
19 X | ★★ Triad
FA: Colin Reece (solo), 1976 | 10m | Morialta | ||
23 | ★★ Pizazz
The face on the left of the 'Barad Dur' wall, avoiding the corner. Climb on crimps following the line of bolts up the face. Start: You can begin as for 'Barad Dur' or from directly below the route proper. | 21m, 4 | Morialta | ||
18 | ★★★ Miles from Nowhere
| 100m | Moonarie | ||
13 | ★ Sandpiper
FA: Colin Magor & K Chapman, 1972 | 25m | Onkaparinga | ||
12 | ★★ Ultion
Up the corner to the right of Icarus. Recommend Taking #10 & #11 hexes or some large cams. (1) 35m 13 Climb up the main corner, and right hand crack. Belay from inside the large cave. (2) 25m 13 Follow the crack and the corner. Can top out and come down main descent gully or stop at the "Hold Tight" chains on the right just before exiting the corner. 59m abseil. FA: John Austin & Dave MacNamara, 1968 | 60m, 2 | Moonarie | ||
19 | ★ A Quiet Chat
Start up Illequipt Left Side and then move up and R into the Illequipt crack. | 13m | Morialta | ||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle
| 40m, 2 | Moonarie | ||
15 | ★ Tai-o-Toshi
Start: Over the bulge 1 metre right of 'Golgotha'. Up to the ledge right of the nose. Head up the groove just right of the arete. FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968 | 15m | Morialta | ||
20 | ★★ Up The Baize
| 18m | Morialta | ||
19 | ★ Shewoodenduit
Start: Follow Barrud Dur to the roof, then nip back right under this to a crack, which is climbed. FA: David Moriarty & Mike Waite, 1968 | 20m | Morialta | ||
12 | Pedagogue
(P) The curving left facing corner with a steep start. The most popular climb at this end of the crag. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Dave McNamara, 1968 | 20m | Morialta | ||
11 | ★ Sexy Love Slot
The crack on the L side of the slab. Stick to the crack the whole way. At the top, move R to chains. Following the bolts up the slab is 'Sexy Love Clam' FA: Alistair Gifford-Moore & T. Cox, 1991 | 8m | Mitcham Quarries | ||
8 | ★ Al Sirrat
The obvious arete. Not well protected. | 14m | Morialta | ||
23 X | ★★ Bung Direct
The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free. FA: Richard Horn & Stuart Fishwick (A3), 1968 FFA: Most likely Mike Law-Smith, 1984 | 13m | Morialta | ||
17 | ★ Only The Gnomes Know
| 16m | Morialta | ||
15 | Cocolossal
| 18m | Morialta | ||
15 | ★ Cherry B
The obvious line through the overhang. Step up and over then trend left before continuing up. FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, Finius & Helen Pope, 1989 | 25m | Onkaparinga | ||
15 | ★★ Absolute Alcohol RHV
As for 'Absolute Alcohol', but escape right to the hanging blade. Stay right and head straight up | 23m, 1 | Onkaparinga | ||
18 R | ★ Voss
FA: 1977 | 13m | Morialta | ||
22 | ★ Cioch
“Up the wall Right of RESURRECTION to a squatting rest beneath the Roof, Step left , Clip a bolt - Then fight Up to the nipple on the arete. Finish up the HAND CRACK. There are variants but the above mentioned is most popular “ Rock climbing around Adelaide. George Adams , John Dutton (14M3) 1970 TR Jim Olsen 20.10.74 FFLA Henry Barber 15.4.75 (19) FFLA Rod Young 18.9.79 (22) | 14m | Morialta | ||
20 R | ★ The Crunge
Climb 'Illequipt' to half height, then continue straight up the thin crack. The Illequipt crack and the arete are off limits. | 14m | Morialta | ||
18 | ★ Scotch Missed
A tentative move before clipping the carrot bolt. Start: Start 1.5 left of Ouzo and head up the corner below the roof. Reach over this to clip a carrot bolt. Pull up left onto the arete (bypassing the next roof) and follow this. FA: Mike Ashton (TR), 1980 FFA: Nick Neagle (prior to the bolt), 1986 | 22m, 1 | Onkaparinga | ||
13 | ★ Mal de Mer
The left curving undercling flake, to the body sized slot between the boulder and the cliff. Finish straight up. FA: George Adams & Craig Hill | 20m | The Bluff | ||
19 | ★★ Muesli Direct Finish
Climb Muesli then at the Extra G variant move R to below the bulge and continue directly up the face L of Extra G. FA: Adam Clay, 2008 | 18m | Morialta | ||
20 | ★★ On the Rocks
Start: 1 metre right of 'Bacchus'. Climb boulder problem to slab. Move up to the roof and clip a carrot bolt before stepping boldly out to your right into the bottomless corner. Work your way directly up. FA: Mike Broadbent & Simon Wooley, 1980 | 24m, 1 | Onkaparinga | ||
13 | ★ Add Hock
FA: Mike Ashton & Catherine Pye, 1980 | 25m | Onkaparinga | ||
13 | ★ The Buttress
Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top. | 20m, 1 | Morialta | ||
18 | Sheoak Arete
The arete just right of Sheoak Corner FA: Rodger Alldritt, 1975 FFA: John Marshal, 1979 | 15m | Morialta | ||
22 | ★ Pot Black
FA: TR Nyrie Dood & Led Tony Barker | 18m | Morialta | ||
13 | ★ A Question of Balance
| 15m | Morialta | ||
16 R | ★ Kamikaze
The small amount of rock between Big Sham's corner and the left arete. Straight up the centre. The left and right side are off limits. Very little pro. Don't fall! Stick to the middle only, left and right side out of bounds apparently. Dangerous lead. Small RP between you and the deck! | 14m | Morialta | ||
18 | ★★ Goodvibes Direct
| 22m | Moonarie | ||
20 | ★★★ Paradigm
Start: Follow the ramp and corner to the roof where a strenuous undercling leads to a rest in the corner above. When this blanks out continue boldly to a horizontal and easier finish. | 15m | Raetjen's Gap | ||
17/18 | ★★ Baudin DF
As for Baudin to the hollow scoop slab. Take the steep left line past 3 ring bolts. 3 hangerless bolts available for the anchor belay. | 25m, 3 | The Bluff | ||
8 | Start
FA: Mike Ball & V. Venness, 1971 | 19m | Morialta | ||
14 | ★ Corkscrew Retribution
Follow the corner past an overhang to a ledge, it's hard to leave but you need to make a dicky move R to the wide crack. Up. | 35m | Moonarie | ||
17 | ★★ Pagoda Original
The original route. Takes the vertical crack above the overhanging pagoda on the flake. | 100m, 4 | Moonarie | ||
19 | ★★★ Icarus
Obvious crack line just left of the corner. Finishes at the top of Flying Buttress, so you’ll then need to do the escape pitch.
| 60m, 2 | Moonarie | ||
18 | ★ Close to the Edge
FA: 1979 | 20m | Morialta | ||
14 R | ★★ Pleasure Dome
A short memorable '14'. Adding to the excitement is how long will the window last! Start: Start from inside the Tafoni (umbrella looking rock). Thread a sling through the window, clip and go! Step out then make your way over the top. | 5m | The Bluff | ||
18 | ★★ Alien Country
| 25m | Moonarie | ||
17 | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct Finish
FFA: Henry Barber, 1975 | 110m | Moonarie | ||
11 | ★ Sham 'n' Eggs
| 10m | Morialta |