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Routes as trad in South Australia

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,395 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
16 Muesli

Start: Start on the left side of the orange wall. Nice continuous climbing up the flake. Gain a rest on the ledge and continue up the arete.

FA: Col Reece & Mike Round, 1972

Trad 18m Morialta
21 Extra G

Very nice sustained wall climb.

Start: Start as for muesli and continue for 6 metres to where 2 small horizontals allow you step out on to the wall to the right. Climb over a small bulge to reach a thin seam and follow this to where it curls of right. Clip the bolt and go for the top.

FA: Tony Barker & Steve Moore

Mixed trad 18m, 1 Morialta
16 Asgard

Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route.

Trad 15m Morialta
12 Balthazar

The curving corner just left of Boulder Bridge.

FA: Iain Allan, John Griffiths & Terry Prime, 1971

Trad 13m Morialta
12 Sheoak Corner

Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route.

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Terry Prime, 1968

Trad 15m Morialta
18 Illequipt

Climb the wall left of Al Sirrat, starting at a small arete. At half height, step L into the crack.

Trad 14m Morialta
15 Shedidit

Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out.

Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall.

FA: David Moriarty, Stuart Fishwick & Christine Shedley, 1968

Trad 13m Morialta
15 Lords Prayer

Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner.

Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'.

Trad 17m Morialta
16 Plexas

Start: Traverse right from the cave, or start directly up left side of the lower cave. Move up to the detached block and execute a nice move to gain a stance on the block. Follow the well protected corner.

FA: Colin Reece, 1975

Trad 18m Morialta
18 The Billiard Table
Trad 18m Morialta
17 R Resurrection

Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader

Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner.

Trad 14m Morialta
14 Bacchus

This is a must, nice bridging on good rock.

Start: The main corner below the sheoak tree.

FA: Martin Bell & Alan Coghlan, 1972

Trad 23m Onkaparinga
15 Clea Direct Finish

Start: Climb Clea's well protected crack. Move slightly right from the ledge onto the arete. Continue up moving over the small roof.

FA: John Griffiths & Martin Bell, 1971

Trad 16m Morialta
16 Golgotha

Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack.

FA: Stuart Fishwick, George Adams & John Dutton, 1970

Trad 15m Morialta
20 R Digital Input

FA: Gary Scott, Colin Reece & Mark Barnett, 1980

Trad 19m Morialta
21 Fascination

Up the L wall of the gully following the flakes and cracks. Put some pro in between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Step R for a rest, then back L to the top.

The top anchor is two carrots so bring bolt plates.

Mixed trad 16m, 3 Morialta
22 Barad Dur

Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack.

FA: Stuart Fishwick & Richard Horn, 1970

Mixed trad 20m, 1 Morialta
18 R Brainrack

Start beneath moulded brain shaped hole. Up easily to ledge and into brain, then difficult move to underneath roof. Pull over roof to a rest below a second roof. Surmount this and then continue easily up crack.

FA: Quentin Chester (TR), 1979

FFA: David Crisp, 1983

Trad 19m Morialta
11 Clea

Up fist sized crack, trend left and up wide crack. Beginners sometimes bury themselves inside it.

FA: Iain Allan & John Griffiths, 1971

Trad 18m Morialta
17 Mt Olive

Start at broad arete marked with "O". Up to stance below roof, move left and mount the protruding flake, finish up the crack above.

Trad 17m Morialta
11 Big Sham
Trad 14m Morialta
20 Bung RHF

The most common way up the wall. Follow 'Bung Original' but do not move back L. Finish up the face between the crack and arete.

FA: Unknown

Trad 13m Morialta
19 Tilt

FA: 1980

Trad 18m Morialta
16 Outside Chance

An exposed outing in a spectacular position. Well protected. Start at the very left end of the wall beneath DOA.

  1. Step left out to the arete and climb this until the large ledge. Stay on the Great Wall side of the arete for maximum value.

  2. The best finish is to continue up the arete on "Buckley's" at grade 17. Alternatively you can nip off leftwards on "Sorcerer's Apprentice" (12).

Trad 50m, 2 Moonarie
19 Downwind of Angels
Trad 40m Moonarie
18 Terrathea

The good-looking corner crack just right of 'Sardine'. Cruxy start, then once level with Sardine's 2nd bolt, it eases off (but not completely). Best finished by traversing left to the 'Sardine' chains.

FA: Dave McNamara, George Adams & Doug Mclean

Trad 20m Morialta
8 Leprosy

FA: 1971

Trad 15m Morialta
24 Extra G Connection

Start up Geronimo's Cadillac. Traverse left after the first bolt to join Extra G.

Mixed trad 17m, 2 Morialta
17 Absolute Alcohol

Start: Climb the right side of the arete right of Ouzo. Clip the old peg at 8m. Balancy move up left through corner, to a bolt. Follow crack then step right to final arête.

FA: Colin Reece, 1976

Mixed trad 23m, 1 Onkaparinga
19 R Popular Miss Conception

FA: Colin Reece, 1976

Trad 16m Morialta
20 Gladiator

Takes the overhanging line just left of the corner (marked). Climb through the overhanging start (crux) to a stance just under a small roof, then reach out right and climb into the opposing corner. Continue up the line to a layback finish and chains.

Mixed trad 16m, 3 Morialta
9 Justine

FA: Iain Allan, 1971

Trad 19m Morialta
8 Cinch

Ledges and large cracks on the R of the asgard wall. The groove through the overhang is awkward.

Trad 14m Morialta
15 Ouzo

Despite conspiracy theorist touts that there are incredible runouts the pro is solid in the very small wire range. Swing past Rundle Street and pick up some brass offsets / RP’s then blast up the corner placing fine gear as the face steepens, move left over the bulge before finding another fine wire. Bomber gear ahead, move up and into the crack in the right wall before tackling the summit block head on. Steal a star off Bacchus.

FA: Colin Reece (TR), 1972

FFA: Mike Broadbent, 1978

Trad 22m Onkaparinga
15 The Thinker

FA: John Griffiths & Martin Bell, 1971

Trad 16m Morialta
15 Flying Buttress
Trad 110m, 3 Moonarie
15 Hangover Layback

A Moonarie mega classic, the 3 pitches are all exciting and all very different. Start in corner at left end of overhang at right side of large mossy slab.

  1. Haul past the overhang and then follow the thin crack to the major ledge. Traverse left to belay below the flake.

  2. Swing up the flake to the spacious ledge (rap chains on your left - awkward position, 50m to ground.)

  3. Up crack, then take a deep breath and swing right along the sharp ledge. Heave ho and then follow left trending line to the top.

The rap chains at the top are awkward to access from above (consider roping up.) From here it is a 30m abseil to the large ledge, then 50m to the ground (second abseil is in an awkward position.)

Trad 90m, 3 Moonarie
15 Pagoda Variant
1 10 30m
2 13 15m
3 15 15m
4 12 43m

The most popular way to do this exciting route on a mega flake.

  1. 30m (10) Up corner and easy ramp to stance.

  2. 15m (13) Step up to the flake and follow it leftwards to the Pagoda. Either squeeze in behind it or swing around it. Belay on top of the flake.

  3. 15m (15) Move up to the scoop, then follow the R leaning crack back to the major corner.

  4. 43m (12) Follow the major corner.

Trad 100m, 4 Moonarie
17 Vortex

Obvious steep line on the left side of the buttress above descent gully. Rap chains at the top of the first pitch. 60m rope will get you back easily.

Trad 45m, 2 Moonarie
13 Three Step

Classic Jamming moves through an awkward bulge.

FA: Richard Horn et al, 1970

Trad 12m Morialta
19 Pine Crack

Originally done with a belay after only 10m, but is now usually done in two 30m pitches. The 1st belay (at 30m) is bolted. Above pitch 2 there are trees and cams to belay off, then walk 10m R on the ledge (best to stay on belay) to carefully access abseil chains (55m to the ground).

Trad 65m, 2 Moonarie
12 Nervine

Rap chains on top of pitch 3. 60m rap should get you to the ground.

Trad 120m, 5 Moonarie
21 Living on the Ceiling

Start 2m right of Mt Olive (marked "O"). Up to stance below roof. Follow thin crack through roof to jugs, hand traverse left around arete then up.

FA: Nick Neagle & Mike Brown, 1985

Trad 17m Morialta
15 Arev

FA: 2006

Trad 14m Morialta
16 Tim Tam

The crack line just left of the callitris. Pass an overhang and remember it's not over until you clip the chains. 30m rope stretcher abseil to the ground.

Trad 30m Moonarie
19 Sticklebrickette

A nice climb with the bolt at the crux.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bacchus'. Move around right from the initial undercling. Head up to the bolt over the small roof and follow the crack.

FA: Mark Witham, 1986

Mixed trad 23m, 1 Onkaparinga
16 Dropout

FA: Colin Reece

Trad 17m Morialta
12 Sauterne

Start: Climb the corner to a peg at 10 metres. Step right just above this to access a big ledge. Carry on directly.

FA: Mike Ball & Alan Coghlan, 1972

Trad 20m Onkaparinga
19 Close Your Eyes and Think of England

Start: Easy climbing but with limited protection up to the small roof. Clip the two bolts and finish on some slightly gritty rock.

FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1986

Mixed trad 17m, 2 Morialta
20 X Bung Original

"Original" in that it was the first variant on the wall to go free.

Climb 'Bung Direct' to below the crux, step R, make a move up and then back L to the crack.

FA: "Hot" Henry Barber, 1975

Trad 13m Morialta
19 Hard People

Start: Start left of Sandpiper's initial corner and head to the thin seam just right of the arete above. Climb the wall just right of this to reach a shallow niche. Undercling the block above and carry on up the overhanging seam.

FA: Mark Witham (TR), 1984

FFA: Sandy Hancock, 1987

Trad 25m Onkaparinga
13 Garden Refuse Removed Cheaply
Trad 120m Moonarie
12 Armageddon
Trad 15m Morialta
17 Buckley's

A great finish to Outside Chance.

From the cave, move slighty R, stretch up to the 2nd horizontal and then move left to the arete proper. At the ledge, clamber into the scoop from its bottom R and exit at its top left.

Trad 20m Moonarie
14 Cue Ball

FA: Martin Bell & Dave Sutton, 1971

Trad 17m Morialta
11 Frontignac

FA: George Adams & Colin Magor, 1972

Trad 22m Onkaparinga
20 Gang of Four
Mixed trad 20m, 2 Morialta
19 X Triad

FA: Colin Reece (solo), 1976

Trad 10m Morialta
23 Pizazz

The face on the left of the 'Barad Dur' wall, avoiding the corner. Climb on crimps following the line of bolts up the face.

Start: You can begin as for 'Barad Dur' or from directly below the route proper.

Mixed trad 21m, 4 Morialta
18 Miles from Nowhere
Trad 100m Moonarie
13 Sandpiper

FA: Colin Magor & K Chapman, 1972

Trad 25m Onkaparinga
12 Ultion

Up the corner to the right of Icarus. Recommend Taking #10 & #11 hexes or some large cams.

(1) 35m 13 Climb up the main corner, and right hand crack. Belay from inside the large cave.

(2) 25m 13 Follow the crack and the corner. Can top out and come down main descent gully or stop at the "Hold Tight" chains on the right just before exiting the corner. 59m abseil.

FA: John Austin & Dave MacNamara, 1968

Trad 60m, 2 Moonarie
19 A Quiet Chat

Start up Illequipt Left Side and then move up and R into the Illequipt crack.

Trad 13m Morialta
13 Gargoyle
Trad 40m, 2 Moonarie
15 Tai-o-Toshi

Start: Over the bulge 1 metre right of 'Golgotha'. Up to the ledge right of the nose. Head up the groove just right of the arete.

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

Trad 15m Morialta
20 Up The Baize
Trad 18m Morialta
19 Shewoodenduit

Start: Follow Barrud Dur to the roof, then nip back right under this to a crack, which is climbed.

FA: David Moriarty & Mike Waite, 1968

Trad 20m Morialta
12 Pedagogue

(P) The curving left facing corner with a steep start. The most popular climb at this end of the crag. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Dave McNamara, 1968

Trad 20m Morialta
11 Sexy Love Slot

The crack on the L side of the slab. Stick to the crack the whole way. At the top, move R to chains.

Following the bolts up the slab is 'Sexy Love Clam'

FA: Alistair Gifford-Moore & T. Cox, 1991

Trad 8m Mitcham Quarries
8 Al Sirrat

The obvious arete. Not well protected.

Trad 14m Morialta
23 X Bung Direct

The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free.

FA: Richard Horn & Stuart Fishwick (A3), 1968

FFA: Most likely Mike Law-Smith, 1984

Trad 13m Morialta
17 Only The Gnomes Know
Trad 16m Morialta
15 Cocolossal
Trad 18m Morialta
15 Cherry B

The obvious line through the overhang. Step up and over then trend left before continuing up.

FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, Finius & Helen Pope, 1989

Trad 25m Onkaparinga
15 Absolute Alcohol RHV

As for 'Absolute Alcohol', but escape right to the hanging blade. Stay right and head straight up

Mixed trad 23m, 1 Onkaparinga
18 R Voss

FA: 1977

Trad 13m Morialta
22 Cioch

“Up the wall Right of RESURRECTION to a squatting rest beneath the Roof, Step left , Clip a bolt - Then fight Up to the nipple on the arete. Finish up the HAND CRACK. There are variants but the above mentioned is most popular “ Rock climbing around Adelaide. George Adams , John Dutton (14M3) 1970 TR Jim Olsen 20.10.74 FFLA Henry Barber 15.4.75 (19) FFLA Rod Young 18.9.79 (22)

Trad 14m Morialta
20 R The Crunge

Climb 'Illequipt' to half height, then continue straight up the thin crack. The Illequipt crack and the arete are off limits.

Trad 14m Morialta
18 Scotch Missed

A tentative move before clipping the carrot bolt.

Start: Start 1.5 left of Ouzo and head up the corner below the roof. Reach over this to clip a carrot bolt. Pull up left onto the arete (bypassing the next roof) and follow this.

FA: Mike Ashton (TR), 1980

FFA: Nick Neagle (prior to the bolt), 1986

Mixed trad 22m, 1 Onkaparinga
13 Mal de Mer

The left curving undercling flake, to the body sized slot between the boulder and the cliff. Finish straight up.

FA: George Adams & Craig Hill

Trad 20m The Bluff
19 Muesli Direct Finish

Climb Muesli then at the Extra G variant move R to below the bulge and continue directly up the face L of Extra G.

FA: Adam Clay, 2008

Trad 18m Morialta
20 On the Rocks

Start: 1 metre right of 'Bacchus'. Climb boulder problem to slab. Move up to the roof and clip a carrot bolt before stepping boldly out to your right into the bottomless corner. Work your way directly up.

FA: Mike Broadbent & Simon Wooley, 1980

Mixed trad 24m, 1 Onkaparinga
13 Add Hock

FA: Mike Ashton & Catherine Pye, 1980

Trad 25m Onkaparinga
13 The Buttress

Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.

Mixed trad 20m, 1 Morialta
18 Sheoak Arete

The arete just right of Sheoak Corner

FA: Rodger Alldritt, 1975

FFA: John Marshal, 1979

Trad 15m Morialta
22 Pot Black

FA: TR Nyrie Dood & Led Tony Barker

Trad 18m Morialta
13 A Question of Balance
Trad 15m Morialta
16 R Kamikaze

The small amount of rock between Big Sham's corner and the left arete. Straight up the centre. The left and right side are off limits. Very little pro. Don't fall!

Stick to the middle only, left and right side out of bounds apparently. Dangerous lead. Small RP between you and the deck!

Trad 14m Morialta
18 Goodvibes Direct
Trad 22m Moonarie
20 Paradigm

Start: Follow the ramp and corner to the roof where a strenuous undercling leads to a rest in the corner above. When this blanks out continue boldly to a horizontal and easier finish.

Trad 15m Raetjen's Gap
17/18 Baudin DF

As for Baudin to the hollow scoop slab. Take the steep left line past 3 ring bolts. 3 hangerless bolts available for the anchor belay.

Mixed trad 25m, 3 The Bluff
8 Start

FA: Mike Ball & V. Venness, 1971

Trad 19m Morialta
14 Corkscrew Retribution

Follow the corner past an overhang to a ledge, it's hard to leave but you need to make a dicky move R to the wide crack. Up.

Trad 35m Moonarie
17 Pagoda Original

The original route. Takes the vertical crack above the overhanging pagoda on the flake.

Trad 100m, 4 Moonarie
19 Icarus

Obvious crack line just left of the corner. Finishes at the top of Flying Buttress, so you’ll then need to do the escape pitch.

  1. pass the small overhang on its left side, and follow the flake, trending right to reach the crack and a belay before tackling the line.

  2. up the crack through the small overhang.

Trad 60m, 2 Moonarie
18 Close to the Edge

FA: 1979

Trad 20m Morialta
14 R Pleasure Dome

A short memorable '14'. Adding to the excitement is how long will the window last!

Start: Start from inside the Tafoni (umbrella looking rock). Thread a sling through the window, clip and go! Step out then make your way over the top.

Trad 5m The Bluff
18 Alien Country
Trad 25m Moonarie
17 Flying Buttress Direct Finish

FFA: Henry Barber, 1975

Trad 110m Moonarie
11 Sham 'n' Eggs
Trad 10m Morialta

Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,395 routes.

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