Routes in South Australia

Local warm up route.

Start: Start on the left side of the orange wall. Nice continuous climbing up the flake. Gain a rest on the ledge and continue up the arete.

Very nice sustained wall climb.

Start: Start as for muesli and continue for 6 metres to where 2 small horizontals allow you step out on to the wall to the right. Climb over a small bulge to reach a thin seam and follow this to where it curls of right. Clip the bolt and go for the top.

Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route.

Up 4 bolts Lt of Grurper direct. Then traverse up and Lt past 2 more bolts to chains. DBB

A short powerful sequence starting on good holds at head height into a crimpy crux section to the big incut feature followed by some big moves to the top of the staircase. Graded back in line with '24 print guide.

The curving corner just left of Boulder Bridge.

Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route.

Move straight up on the right hand side of the wall until you reach a small block with a letter box slot. Step left and follow the crack.

Start: Start on the right hand side of the wall right of 'Shedidit' crack.

Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner.

Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'.

Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out.

Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall.

Start on the higher platform right of the nose of the buttress. Stiff start with delicate moves up textured slab. Hold loss at the start has made this a tad easier since the first ascent.

Start: Traverse right from the cave, or start directly up left side of the lower cave. Move up to the detached block and execute a nice move to gain a stance on the block. Follow the well protected corner.

Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader

Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner.

This is a must, nice bridging on good rock.

Start: The main corner below the sheoak tree.

Start: Climb Clea's well protected crack. Move slightly right from the ledge onto the arete. Continue up moving over the small roof.

The route just left of 'Battery Acid' (previously known as Zombie Pash). Climb up face until first overhang section. Climb through overhang on blades until bridging becomes possible. Pull onto right face level with a large pinch. Climb diagonally right around arete and onto face & finish at chains on 'Battery Acid'. Watch the rope drag on the arete.

Climb 'Peregrine LHV' and then launch up the rest of Eddie. Can also be done via the RHV start at roughly the same grade.

Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack.

Up the L wall of the gully following the flakes and cracks. Put some pro in between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Step R for a rest, then back L to the top.

The top anchor is two carrots so bring bolt plates.

Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack.

The most fallen off crux move at the Summit. Takes the easy juggy start below the 1st ring bolt to a big move for a well-chalked crimp/slope - and a reach out left to a jug. Finish up on the slab.

Climb the reachy boulder-problem off the deck just right of the Terrethea crackline via a big move to the dubious flat jug. Continue up to the 'shield' (which is living on borrowed time) - then onwards up the face.

Start beneath moulded brain shaped hole. Up easily to ledge and into brain, then difficult move to underneath roof. Pull over roof to a rest below a second roof. Surmount this and then continue easily up crack.

Up fist sized crack, trend left and up wide crack. Beginners sometimes bury themselves inside it.

Start at broad arete marked with "O". Up to stance below roof, move left and mount the protruding flake, finish up the crack above.

Start standing on stalagmite and head up following bolts on layaway's and slopers. Move into heel hook rest under small roof. At 4th BR continue straight up to final overlap and onto headwall.

The LH side of the buttress. Keep the second bolt at the small roof to your left and stay on the left side of the upper flake.

Start just right of Felch Me and head directly up through layback flake. Veer slightly right over small overhang and up slab to chains.

The most common way up the wall. Follow 'Bung Original' but do not move back L. Finish up the face between the crack and arete.

The shallow scoop on the LHS of the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on LHS of ridge line.

An exposed outing in a spectacular position. Well protected. Start at the very left end of the wall beneath DOA.

1. Step left out to the arete and climb this until the large ledge. Stay on the Great Wall side of the arete for maximum value.

2. The best finish is to continue up the arete on "Buckley's" at grade 17. Alternatively you can nip off leftwards on "Sorcerer's Apprentice" (12).

Start up Sexy Love Slot and then move R onto the slab passing 3 bolts to the chains.

Start right of the alcove/overhanging corner at ground level. Climb good holds toward crack weakness (white rock) to eventually step left out onto face/arete and finish up short headwall above Any Colour You Like.

Follow as for the original route to the rest below the small roof, escape left, then up to chains.

The good-looking corner crack just right of 'Sardine'. Cruxy start, then once level with Sardine's 2nd bolt, it eases off (but not completely). Best finished by traversing left to the 'Sardine' chains.

Start on good sidepull, head directly up to large curved jug rest before moving up to a funky final sequence in smaller incuts. Grading for this line has changed over the years due to holds breaking. Current grading is approx 20-22

Starts just left of the 'Terrathea' corner and climbs up to the big sidepull sloper and two good edges. Clip the next bolt and launch out left (crux) to a big crank level with the small roof (rest). Cut back right - then left - until below the final face (rest). Continue to the chain. This route can also be done by going direct through the roof (at the same grade).

Same as 'Running to a Standstill' then escape right to avoid hard move to chains

Climb the first 3 bolts of 'Lokomotiv' then head up the left side of the arete all the way (do not deviate right around the arete).

Graded 24 until a large jug ripped off, courtesy of Mr Baker. Now a soft-touch 25 power-endurance fest. Takes the left most chalked weakness past a line of rings bolts and positive holds to a fingery crux at the last bolt. One of the best routes at the Summit.

Start behind large boulder at very low 1st bolt? Climb black slab veering R. The 5th bolt is in an unnerving slab. Finish over or R of the final block to chains.

Start: Left of 'Crossroads'

Straight up to the exciting move onto the big ledge. 3 bolts to rap station. NB: The original Grurper starts near North Terrace Stroll and gains the big ledge from the R.

Start up Geronimo's Cadillac. Traverse left after the first bolt to join Extra G.

Take the crack on the left? The arete on the right? Span across both? Ignore both? You decide.

Re-equipped 2015.

Start at the LH end of rock platform above pool. Pull over RH side of nose past bolt, then easily L to high 2nd bolt. Continue up ridge to chains. Take off a couple of grades if you climb the LHS of the initial bulge.

Start: Climb the right side of the arete right of Ouzo. Clip the old peg at 8m. Balancy move up left through corner, to a bolt. Follow crack then step right to final arête.

Start on log lying on the ground, climb past first bolt to the terrace. Head diagonally right up into central weakness of the cliff. Climb into chimney into good lay away. Head right out onto face/head wall (thin crimps) up through another 3 bolts then to chains.

Belay note: Route is still cleaning up. Belay from underneath the rooflet to the right of the starting bolt in case of loose rock.

Originally established as a bold traditional outing by Kim Carrigan. Now retro-bolted with general consensus due to it residing in a largely sport-route populated area. Not surprisingly, it has now become one of the most travelled lines for its grade at 'Morialta'. Makes for a far better outing than the original. Once at the big break, climb straight up the continuation of the arete largely on its right border to finish at a chain.

Takes the overhanging line just left of the corner (marked). Climb through the overhanging start (crux) to a stance just under a small roof, then reach out right and climb into the opposing corner. Continue up the line to a layback finish and chains.

The bolted line on the right side of the cave (no - not the furthest one!) Deceptively pumpy, with quite a technical finish.

Quite a hard onsight. Unlikely moves epitomise both crux's of this outstanding route, which breaks through the top main roof on its leftside (past the fixed 'biner).

Start: Start below a very high 1st ring bolt, climb to this, then onwards to the fixed blue 'biner (1st crux). Take the left-trending line of jugs up and left then through the main roof and up.

The line of bolts to the lower off on the short buttress R of the Hyperion corner. Stick clip recommended.

Takes a direct line after the 2nd bolt (basically eliminating the jug rest to the right). Contrived, but if you want the 26 label, this is the way to do it. Has over the years been muddled with the RHV (25 - and the obvious line using the jug).

Start at the RH end of the vegetated ledge above the large boulder. Pass left of the first bolt over prominent bulge (difficult) and then up slabs to tri-chains.

Was 23 until a small crimp at the crux magically turned into a jug

Ledges and large cracks on the R of the asgard wall. The groove through the overhang is awkward.

Despite conspiracy theorist touts that there are incredible runouts the pro is solid in the very small wire range. Swing past Rundle Street and pick up some brass offsets / RP’s then blast up the corner placing fine gear as the face steepens, move left over the bulge before finding another fine wire. Bomber gear ahead, move up and into the crack in the right wall before tackling the summit block head on. Steal a star off Bacchus.

A Summit classic. Optimal power-endurance climbing at the grade. Start as for 'Peregrine' RHV but launch directly up past the 1st bolt to a 2nd. Break back left via a crimpy move (crux) into 'Pussy' and finish at the chain.

Bolted route up the face right of Vortex. Shares the first couple of moves, bring a couple pieces of gear for the start and the top. Shares anchors with vortex

A Moonarie mega classic, the 3 pitches are all exciting and all very different. Start in corner at left end of overhang at right side of large mossy slab.

1. Haul past the overhang and then follow the thin crack to the major ledge. Traverse left to belay below the flake.

2. Swing up the flake to the spacious ledge (rap chains on your left - awkward position, 50m to ground.)

3. Up crack, then take a deep breath and swing right along the sharp ledge. Heave ho and then follow left trending line to the top.

The rap chains at the top are awkward to access from above (consider roping up.) From here it is a 30m abseil to the large ledge, then 50m to the ground (second abseil is in an awkward position.)

The most popular way to do this exciting route on a mega flake.

1. 30m (10) Up corner and easy ramp to stance.

2. 15m (13) Step up to the flake and follow it leftwards to the Pagoda. Either squeeze in behind it or swing around it. Belay on top of the flake.

3. 15m (15) Move up to the scoop, then follow the R leaning crack back to the major corner.

4. 43m (12) Follow the major corner.

One of the best routes at Car Crash. Follow bolts up the left wall of the amphitheatre, move left to the arete to finish at agricultural looking anchor.

Originally done with a belay after only 10m, but is now usually done in two 30m pitches. The 1st belay (at 30m) is bolted. Above pitch 2 there are trees and cams to belay off, then walk 10m R on the ledge (best to stay on belay) to carefully access abseil chains (55m to the ground).

Obvious steep line on the left side of the buttress above descent gully. Rap chains at the top of the first pitch. 60m rope will get you back easily.

Classic Jamming moves through an awkward bulge.

Rap chains on top of pitch 3. 60m rap should get you to the ground.

Standing start. From huge jug in middle of traverse line go up and left to jug pocket, then up.

AGW then into PO and finishing as for RO Lefthand finish. Easiest route on this wall.

The crack line just left of the callitris. Pass an overhang and remember it's not over until you clip the chains. 30m rope stretcher abseil to the ground.

Start 2m right of Mt Olive (marked "O"). Up to stance below roof. Follow thin crack through roof to jugs, hand traverse left around arete then up.

Belayer beware. Start 3m right of gum behind large boulder. Climb the red slab then through roof to chains.

A nice climb with the bolt at the crux.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bacchus'. Move around right from the initial undercling. Head up to the bolt over the small roof and follow the crack.

A power-endurance fest starting just right of 'Circus Street' and heading up via the 'shotgun' blast of finger pockets. Traverse left along jugs to the 'hole' - then up past shothole to match the final jug in the roof (after the last bolt).

Far left hand side of cliff. Stand-start off chalked horizontal, then up left then back right following the line of least resistance to the positive holds under the roof.

Start: Climb the corner to a peg at 10 metres. Step right just above this to access a big ledge. Carry on directly.

Start: Easy climbing but with limited protection up to the small roof. Clip the two bolts and finish on some slightly gritty rock.

"Original" in that it was the first variant on the wall to go free.

Climb 'Bung Direct' to below the crux, step R, make a move up and then back L to the crack.

Waits headspace slabbing at its best and probably not a good one to warm up on if you haven't experienced Waits before or are looking for a quick clip up. Good training for the harder routes.

Start: Start left of Sandpiper's initial corner and head to the thin seam just right of the arete above. Climb the wall just right of this to reach a shallow niche. Undercling the block above and carry on up the overhanging seam.

The often-climbed but unrecorded (?) corner-crack between RW and RTAS. Stay in it all the way!

A great finish to Outside Chance.

From the cave, move slighty R, stretch up to the 2nd horizontal and then move left to the arete proper. At the ledge, clamber into the scoop from its bottom R and exit at its top left.

One of the best routes in the Gorge. Climb the roof right of the undercut arete (Japetus) via a large undercling. Get your breath back over the lip, then launch up and left (or go direct) to the obvious rampline. One final hard move remains, then large holds lead to the chain in a runout position (Cam optional). Unfortunately the scene of some chipping circa 2005 when the crux slot on the face after the roof was altered to allow certain people's fingers to close crimp the hold. What they didn't know is that this route can be climbed direct up the face (slightly harder).

The right hand line on the graffitti wall. An intense sequence past three bolts.