Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
14 ~16 | ★ Orca | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
5 Glue In machine bolts (you need bolt plates) and 1 piton at the top where the rock is too fractured for drilling. Quite hard for the grade easily grade 16 or 17.
Very sustained climbing with a few committing moves.
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Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
18 | ★ Kid Glory - with Mathis | 14m, 8 | Don't Bother | ||||
Not so glorious, just be content with Kid Rock. Also a pain to clean.
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Mon 22nd May 2023 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins | 27m, 6 | |||||
Work
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Wed 19th Apr 2023 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins | 27m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Long run out
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Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
16 | Penguin Master | 25m | |||||
An easy climb that's very well bolted.
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Bonking Penguins | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Would have sent it, but i got stung by wasps around 4th clip
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Mon 6th Mar 2023 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 ~18 | ★ Morning Glory | 20m, 6 | |||||
Pretty slippery. Best done early morning.
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Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with Robbo | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Loved this climb. A couple of boulderers near by. One of them had a cool ring tone but I dont know the name of the song.
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17 | ★ Centrepiece - with Robbo | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bit tired from the walk from lifestyle refugees but let out a few pasaats! and got the job done.
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15 | ★ Lifestyle Refugees - with Robbo | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good fun. Couple of people walked past with their dog. Good times.
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17 | Quickie — 3 attempts - with Robbo | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tried on a 26 degreee day. The foot holds were a bit slippery.
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Sat 18th Feb 2023 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins - with robbo | 27m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very fun. Best to rappell down.
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Sat 7th Jan 2023 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins | 27m, 6 | |||||
Decent climb, a little chossy.
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Sun 9th Jan 2022 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
14 | ★ The Spine | 25m, 3 | |||||
Heaps of fun, the top belay ledge need a sweep,
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Fri 24th Dec 2021 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★★ Kid Rock | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Fun
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Fri 6th Aug 2021 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins - with Meg Page | 27m, 6 | |||||
Ended up down climbing it to clean it for fun.
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Sat 3rd Jul 2021 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Stolen Glory | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Barn doored at the side pull
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23 | ★★ Stolen Glory | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell at the intermediate
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23 | ★★ Stolen Glory | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Intermediate may need some glue, try not to stand on it
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Sat 26th Jun 2021 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Lifestyle Refugees | 20m, 6 | Don't Bother | ||||
Fat 2nd bolt can't take a 45 plate but you can get a 90 on it with enough space for a draw. Sketchy but seemed ok enough to proceed.
Having said that the route isn't good enough to bother. There are much better options. |
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Fri 25th Jun 2021 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
12 | ★ Hipster Crack | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super fun crack climb; made it much harder for myself the first time round by not using hand or foot jams. Did it a second time round and definitely felt like a 12.
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13 | Tear Drop | 30m | |||||
Super chossy; retreated due to too much falling rock on my belaye=r
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12 | ★ Hipster Crack | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great crack for teaching people to crack climb and place trad gear
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Sat 11th Jul 2020 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with george walker | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So freeking great! Though a bit of an acquired taste. But beautiful rock. So happy to have got this one.
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14 | ★ Orca - with george walker | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Good climb, will be a nice challenge if just starting on the grade as some small foot holds at one point.
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Sat 27th Jun 2020 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | Quickie | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
short but very technical sequence. trust your feet!
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Sat 23rd May 2020 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
14 | ★ Child's Play - with Emily Hoffmann | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
yeah, fun exercise in trusting small gear.
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Mon 30th Sep 2019 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
16 | Penguin Master | 25m | Don't Bother | ||||
Terrible route. Veers right into sketchy Chossy terrain that was covered in silt. Then a big runout to finish.
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17 | ★★ Kid Rock | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun route. Good mix of slab and a pumpy finish.
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15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins | 27m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Didn’t find bolt to be fat. Plates still fitted. Anchors a long way back so take some rope or cordelette if lowering off to avoid rope drag. Middle section is better if you go straight through. Not left.
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Mon 23rd Sep 2019 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
13 | ★ Middle Line | 31m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Requires more than a 60m rope. Anchors behind, over the top edge.
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Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with meegs | 15m, 5 | |||||
Missed the onsight cause i couldnt see all the holds on the lower bulge, fun moves
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12 | ★ Hipster Crack - with meegs | 20m | |||||
Cool,
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Sun 28th Jul 2019 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Stolen Glory | 15m, 5 | |||||
Brilliant combination of crimps and smears
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Wed 3rd Jul 2019 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins | 27m, 6 | |||||
2nd bolt is fat
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Tue 19th Mar 2019 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★ Morning Glory | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Epic lines for a full moon climb!
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Tue 19th Feb 2019 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
13 | Tear Drop | 30m | Don't Bother | ||||
Only do this if you want to kill your belayer with falling rocks, as it's super crumbly. Better yet, do not climb this at all. Not worth it at all. I made a bail anchor halfway up as it was getting sketchy and then collected my gear while anchored from the climbs to the right.
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Mon 7th Jan 2019 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
14 | ★ The Spine | 25m, 3 | |||||
Avoid the jugs on the left at the start there's wasps!
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Sun 9th Dec 2018 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
16 | ★ Cornflake | 13m | |||||
Awesome warm-up!
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Sat 24th Nov 2018 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
14 | ★ Child's Play | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Juggy after the face
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16 | ★ Plain Brown Wrapper | 20m, 1 | |||||
No gear until the crack
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Tue 23rd Oct 2018 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
13 | ★ Middle Line | 31m, 8 | Average | ||||
First roped self-belay
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Sat 20th Oct 2018 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
18 | ★ Carrot Master - with Emily Hoffmann | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
I really liked this, the arete is pretty fun. I found no DBB at the top though.
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14 16 | Preface - with Emily Hoffmann | 13m | Don't Bother | ||||
2 stars?? This is shit. And there is very little protection... No bolts, so I changed it to trad. And soft for a 16...
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Sun 26th Aug 2018 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with Catpass Clanky, Sarah Lynn | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
1st attempt on this one. Will try in cooler conditions, confident it will go
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17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with Catpass Clanky, Sarah Lynn | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Still a great warm up
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Sat 11th Aug 2018 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
13 | ★ Middle Line - with Jason Lieu | 31m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
First climb after fall. A few deep breaths required.
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Sun 5th Aug 2018 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins | 27m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Belayers beware: you should definitely wear a helmet here.
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13 | ★ Middle Line | 31m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Belayers beware: you should definitely wear a helmet here.
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Sat 16th Jun 2018 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Lifestyle Refugees - with Emily | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Ok warm up, a bit run out at times, but easy. Weird second bolt — too fat for normal hangers...
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Sat 12th May 2018 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★ Morning Glory - with Catpass Clanky | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up
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Sun 4th Feb 2018 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
19 17 | ★ Centrepiece - with Gordon Jessup, John O'Toole | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good, all bolt rings. Two nice slabby cruxes.
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Fri 15th Dec 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★ Morning Glory - with Kym Campbell | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Stalled out on the unsettling top section. Trust those tiny feet.
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Fri 27th Oct 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with Catpass Clanky | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Probably the best climb of the easier grades at the quarry. Good warm up.
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Sat 16th Sep 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins | 27m, 6 | |||||
Easy, just a bit nervous because the distance between each bilt is so far
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Sat 9th Sep 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★ Centrepiece - with Em | 20m, 5 | Crap | ||||
The bolts are so sparse you may as well solo.
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17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with em | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Little run out
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Sat 26th Aug 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
12 | ★ Hipster Crack | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
If only it were a bit longer this would be a classic.
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Thu 24th Aug 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
12 | ★ Hipster Crack - with Lizzie | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Took Lizzie up this, I love it, but I really wish it was twice as long at least... The 20m here is wrong, more like 12m. The grade 12 is not accurate either, it's a bit harder than that...
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17 | ★ Centrepiece - with Lizzie | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Cool and technical for the grade. Lizzie took a big whipper at the top on lead! Proud of her bold lead!!
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Mon 21st Aug 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
16 | Penguin Master | 25m | |||||
Struggled to follow the line had to go up and down a bit.
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Sun 6th Aug 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
18 | ★ Carrot Master - with Dav | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Average climb, ok to tick but wouldn't repeat. Only found one anchor at the top, placed a piece to belay from.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
16 | ★ Phantom Rib - with Lizzie | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Went up a different way (to clean the top) after leading the route on the right. I could then top out to the left, which would be impossible to protect on trad...
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23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with Jorge | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A few weeks ago I thought I'd never climb this! Stoked to see Jorge send it today too! Elegant footwork makes it so much easier.
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14 | ★ The Spine - with Lizzie | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Mid to large cams (surprisingly) at top! Good mix of styles...
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17 | Quickie - with Lizzie | 10m | Average | ||||
Probably not worth it...
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Fri 14th Jul 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with Jorge | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Jorge worked out an even more efficient footwork for this, I am amazed how poor my foot work was on this till today!
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23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with Jorge | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Redpoint attempt to get gear on the wall for Jorge. Not such a big difference between redpoint and pinkpoint in this, but never a great idea to jump on it without a warm up, painful fingers!
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Sat 8th Jul 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★ Morning Glory - with Patricia | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Cleaning it for the group... Good route.
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23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with Kate | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
FINALLY! Took some work, and three or four attempts today, but those feet finally stayed on at the crux.
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18 | ★ Kid Glory - with Gundula | 14m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Getting that rope on stolen glory, again...
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Sun 2nd Jul 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with Jorge | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First time trying to lead this, a few falls on the crux, but super close!! Not as scary as I thought, well protected, just hard...
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13 | ★ Middle Line | 31m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Solid rock, jugs and really good for the grade. Top anchors are about 5m back.
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18 | ★ Kid Glory - with Jorge | 14m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Getting to the anchors of Stolen Glory.... again...
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Thu 29th Jun 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
18 | ★ Kid Glory - with Chris | 14m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Did this a few times to get a top rope on Stolen Glory and Bonking Penguins, then decided to add it to the crag as that traverse on the top is fun. I just need to clean it properly someday cause it gets no traffic and is very dirty with a couple of potentially lose blocks...
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23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with Chris | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Clean top rope ascent! Looking forward to trying to lead it now!
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Thu 15th Jun 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with Jorge | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A few falls on that crux — I now believe the secret for the first hard move is to go for it even when your brain tells you there is no way in hell you will reach it. I tend to end up reaching it somehow!
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Thu 1st Jun 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
12 | ★ Hipster Crack | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Wish this was longer ... good line for practising cam placements
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Thu 18th May 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with Jorge | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cleaning this route as we've been using it to put the top rope on the hard routes to the left. You know what, if you just keep traversing left after the anchor of this climb and connect it with the anchors of Stolen Glory, then it's a cooler route with a cool traverse in the end! Can I name that?
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17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with Jorge | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Getting that top rope on Stolen Glory...
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23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with Jorge | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
wow, super reachy move from a small crimp, then a small side pull from each you have to summon your hibernating core to get the foot work right to then pull the final moves of the crux. I am writing this dramatic description so I don't forget these moves, but I felt kind of good on it. It will go, just need a bit more faith as well...
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Thu 11th May 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Bonking Penguins - with Paul Donovan | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
A pretty horrid effort tonight. Working on my weaknesses, which is basically this whole route.
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Wed 3rd May 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with Jorge Peres | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Seconding to clean the route and put a top rope on the hard stuff to the left!
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23 | ★★ Bonking Penguins - with Jorge Peres | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I am unsure about the middle of the route, I worked the moves and got through, but I feel like I was on Stolen Glory a bit too much in the middle there... Super delicate, balancy and unnerving, but I might try the lead next time.
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Sat 29th Apr 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins - with James Waugh, Lukas | 27m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Wow, those run outs! Pretty easy, but the rock looks loose at places, so not so fun running out like that on shit rock. Since the bolts at the top are so far back I had to belay James and Lukas from the top, but that made it feel like a small little adventure...
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17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with James Waugh, Lukas | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Love this climb, I think this is the first time I red point it. I remember being a bit scared when leading it for the first time, but today it was just pleasant. Probably my favourite warm up in Stathams.
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Fri 7th Apr 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins - with John Saunders | 27m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really enjoyable climb with plenty of hand and foot holds.
Beware of the small run out to second bolt and loose rock in the crux. |
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13 | ★ Middle Line - with John Saunders | 31m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great warmup, excellent for beginners.
Watch out for extended anchors or drag on the top ledge; Sharp rock and weight make rope no good. |
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Sat 25th Mar 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★ Morning Glory | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
I always get nervous between the last bolt and anchors
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17 | ★ Centrepiece | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice balancey warm up
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Sun 19th Mar 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
12 | ★ Hipster Crack | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Such a cool climb with sweet jams!
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14 | ★ The Spine | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much better than I expected! I ended up starting on Phantom Rib and traversed right just below the overlap. Bring some slings to extend the anchors to prevent your rope rubbing over the lip if top roping.
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Thu 16th Mar 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with Ashley Felton | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up in the shade.
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Sun 19th Feb 2017 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with John Saunders | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Such a good climb with lots of protection.. Try to do this route early in the morning before the rock heats up too much.
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Tue 6th Dec 2016 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
12 | ★ Hipster Crack | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
on 2nd atempt, would not consider it a 12 though
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Fri 25th Nov 2016 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
17 | Quickie | 10m | |||||
17
Soft |
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Thu 24th Nov 2016 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
13 | ★ Middle Line - with Ashley Felton | 31m, 8 | Average | ||||
A pleasant enough warm-up.
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Wed 2nd Nov 2016 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
18 | ★ Carrot Master | 15m, 5 | |||||
18 chosss
Soft |
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23 | ★★ Stolen Glory | 15m, 5 | |||||
23 Great climb, felt easy, have some advantage of being tall. Arguably 6c (22)
Soft |
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Tue 18th Oct 2016 - Statham's Quarry | |||||||
Quarry Right Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Bonking Penguins - with Paul Donovan | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very technical line on very nice rock. Great climb to get some sun on a cool morning.
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