Ascents in Bangor West having Beta

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,632 ascents.

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Quality	Climber
Tue 21st May 2024 - Bangor West
	17	★★ Reno - with Fergus Ayton	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Joss
Make sure you use the boulder otherwise its a bit of a sketchy start
	16	★ Dorothy May - with Fergus Ayton	Sport 10m, 3	★ Good	Joss
Sketchy start off the wobbly cairn, once you get first clip you're away
Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Bangor West
	20	★★ Lucky's Roof — 2 attempts - with Hyakatan	Sport 5m, 5		Owen Rodley
Started from the rock, didn't try the tricky looking first move. Got all the rest in one go on second attempt with draws already in, but didn't bother clipping the final anchor, just downclimbed in sections to clean.
	17	★ Python - with Hyakatan	Sport 8m, 2	★ Good	Owen Rodley
Sent on top rope after Amanda's lead. Easy but good climbing. Holds are reasonably far apart so have to use your feet well.
	19	★★ Fixed Steps — 5 attempts - with Hyakatan	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Owen Rodley
Nice technical climbing on the arete. Mostly quite good holds, but position dependent, requiring good tension.
	21	★★ Tits and Bits — 5 attempts - with Hyakatan	Sport 10m, 2	★★ Very Good	Owen Rodley
Tried on top rope after Amanda's lead. Got all the moves, after a bit of figuring out. Some big moves off poor feet at the start, easy after that.
	15	★★ Andrew's Bulge - with Hyakatan	Sport 8m, 3	★ Good	Owen Rodley
Started a little off to the left to get to the first bolt securely. Nice rock but very straightforward climbing.
Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Bangor West
	21 Hard	★ End of the Decade — 2 attempts - with Adam Brygula	Sport 11m, 2	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
Good movement on this one.
Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Bangor West
	20	★★ Lucky's Roof	Sport 5m, 5		Anthony Mackay
cairn start
	20	★ A Loving Hole - with Anthony Mackay, Chanelle Noble	Sport 10m, 3		Eliezer
First time today, great being fresh
	21	★★ Tits and Bits - with Anthony Mackay, Chanelle Noble	Sport 10m, 2		Eliezer
1 lap to find beta, then send
	17	★ Pitted Arete - with Anthony Mackay, Chanelle Noble	Trad 10m		Eliezer
Nice of Anthony to bring the cams
Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Bangor West
	21	★★ Marathon Man - with Samuel Morton	Sport 12m, 7		Jess Morton
Cleaning was an adventure
	22	★★ End of the Century - with Samuel Morton	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Jess Morton
Super fun. Keen to try again soon.
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Bangor West
	20	★ The Shire Republic	Sport 12m, 3	★★ Very Good	Sam Carman
Nice climb, slopey pockets. Will try to link it all another time.
	23	★ My Girl	Sport 10m, 2		Sean Ealey
Got the moves, now just gotta stitch it together
	17	★ Grotto Crack - with Anthony Mackay, Kelly Ristovsky	Sport 9m, 2		Eliezer
Nice intro to chicken wing offwidth
	20	★ A Loving Hole — 6 attempts - with Anthony Mackay, Kelly Ristovsky	Sport 10m, 3		Eliezer
Got the bottom dialed, into the stunning knee bar. Kept punting off the blind pinch, or just couldn't hold the final jugs
	23	★ My Girl - with Anthony Mackay, Kelly Ristovsky	Sport 10m, 2		Eliezer
Feeling decent, got most of the Beta
	17	★ Pitted Arete - with Anthony Mackay, Kelly Ristovsky	Trad 10m		Eliezer
Gear is actually decent, black totem, 0.4, 2, blue totem, too knackered to haul the final jugs
	18	★ Zip	Sport 8m		Pat Grant
Nope
	19	★★ Fixed Steps	Sport 10m, 3		Pat Grant
Used chimney a bit at the bottom.
	18	★ Egg Rings - with Eliezer, Kelly Ristovsky	Sport 10m, 4		Anthony Mackay
satisfying moves
Fri 9th Feb 2024 - Bangor West
	19	★ Kick Start - with Kelly Ristovsky	Trad 10m		Eliezer
Super dirty, gear blew near the ground when I weighed it, rolled an ankle, not ideal
	15	★★ Passive - with Kelly Ristovsky	Trad 10m		Eliezer
Super dirty but takes passive gear well
	18	★ Active - with Kelly Ristovsky	Trad 10m		Eliezer
Cams 0.5 to 3
Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Bangor West
	20 Easy	★ Flash as a rat — 3 attempts - with Jesse A	Sport 12m, 3		Arden Burrell
This should really be two routes. The original which is left of the 3rd bolt, and a 16 or 17 that goes further right that uses the jugs on the right of the bulge.
	20	★ Pyromaniac — 2 attempts	Sport 9m, 3	★ Good	Arden Burrell
Finally sent it, its a solid route.
Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Bangor West
	21	★★ Marathon Man	Sport 12m, 7	★★ Very Good	Tom Swan
Pretty hard after the roof. Pumpy!!
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Bangor West
	20 Hard	★★ Lucky's Roof - with James Wagner, Corey Haslam, Mel, Stitch (The Dog) Gong	Sport 5m, 5	★★ Very Good	Silvia Gong
Started on the jug rail on the back of the roof for a hard first 2 moves
	13	★ Zulu Trainer - with James Wagner, Corey Haslam, Mel, Stitch (The Dog) Gong	Sport 10m, 2	Average	Silvia Gong
Kinda scary for a 13 on a hot and humid day
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Bangor West
	20	★★ Lucky's Roof	Sport 5m, 5		Thomas Maxted
Moonboot ascent, wet jugs
Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Bangor West
	22	★★ Go Go Gadget Arms	Sport 10m, 3		Den
Need healthy fingers for this one. Utterly desperate
	21	★ Killer's Kidneys	Sport 8m, 3	★★ Very Good	Den
2 laps on TRS
	22	★ Pyromaniac Direct Start	Sport 9m	★ Good	Den
2 laps on TRS
	20	★★ Lucky's Roof	Sport 5m, 5	★★ Very Good	Den
Clean repeat. The 18 version
	20	★ A Loving Hole	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Den
2 laps on TRS
	19	★★ Fixed Steps	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Den
2 laps TRS practice session
Wed 22nd Nov 2023 - Bangor West
	22 Hard	★★ End of the Century — 3 attempts - with James Hutton	Sport 10m, 3	★★★ Classic	Ethan Harley
Must climb quicker next time. 2nd crux using the undercling in the dish and leveraging body position to reach left arm up to a crimp before grabbing the arete seems to be the go.
	22	★★ Go Go Gadget Arms - with James Hutton	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Ethan Harley
Technical footwork to start. Yet to work out the hands coming out of the start. Guessing moving towards the arete is needed. Rather dirty.
Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Bangor West
	19	★ Buzz Boys Beat	Sport 9m, 3	★ Good	Murray
I ended up using the crack, it just felt too contrived otherwise. Anchors are above the crack, setting this as a toprope makes for a great beginners climb on the adjacent 'trad' route!
	17	★ Grotto Crack	Sport 9m, 2	★ Good	Murray
Climbs alright. Carrot anchors.
	22	★★ End of the Century	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Murray
Definitely a Bundy route
	21	★ End of the Decade	Sport 11m, 2	★ Good	Murray
Runout from 2nd bolt to end, could use another for comfort.
	19 ~20	★ Please Dont Piss Here	Sport 8m, 2	★ Good	Murray
Much harder then it looks if you don't know the beta.
Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Bangor West
	13	★ Chicanery Crack	Trad 8m	★ Good	Tom Bes
Works well as an early Trad lead as suggested
	17	★ Grotto Crack	Sport 9m, 2	★★ Very Good	Tom Bes
Can't believe I've never done this properly. I have bailed into the crack from the hand traverse routes but never done the worthwhile start. Quiet wide and burly. Some good fist jams
	19	★★ Fixed Steps	Sport 10m, 3	★★★ Classic	Tom Bes
Not as strong as I remember
	12	Mike's Photogenic Crack	Trad 10m		Tom Bes
I did this as purely an offwidth and had a great time! If you only use the crack and none of the great edges and jugs everywhere you can heel-toe and chicken wing the entire route! Good offwidth training.
	14	★ Get Tracked	Trad 11m	★★ Very Good	Tom Bes
What a great hand crack! Shame it stops at 2/3rd height where it gets a bit trickier.
	18 ~17	★ Active	Trad 10m	Average	Tom Bes
Bit wet from seepage. Awkward moves and a trickier top. Glad to do it though.
Thu 16th Nov 2023 - Bangor West
	21	★ Mars Apple	Sport 8m, 3	★★ Very Good	Arden Burrell
the move up to the first bolt feel impossible. the rest is really nice.
	17	★ Pitted Arete — 3 attempts	Trad 10m	★★ Very Good	Arden Burrell
needed a good clean. was very sandy on first attempt. Otherwise a solid route
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Bangor West
	13 ~14	★ Zulu Trainer - with James A	Sport 10m, 2		Courtney Darville
Not great hands and lots of pistol squating for a 13, but fun nontheless.
	22	★ Pyromaniac Direct Start — 2 attempts - with James A	Sport 9m	★ Good	Courtney Darville
Once the beta is worked out for the first clip, the rest feels pretty easy. Not sure which holds to the left of the bolt are considered part of the 20... But I had one hand to the left of the first bold and one to the right.
	22	★★ A pinch and a punch — 2 attempts - with James A	Sport 12m, 4	★★ Very Good	Courtney Darville
Had to work out the cruxy section between the 3rd and 4th bolt, went easily after my first exploratory attempt. Short but enjoyable.
	16 ~19	★ Dorothy May — 8 attempts - with James A	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Courtney Darville
I really enjoyed this climb. After you have manteled over the lip (first bolt) it feels very much like a 16. But the first move - from the cave to the lip - was nowhere near a 16, especially as an average height woman. I would say it would be more like 19 for Bangor (took way more attempts than the other 2 22s I sent this session). Only possible reason I can imagine it is graded 16 is if you are tall enough to reach the chalked up holds in the roof from the ground. Would be a far better experience if it was accurately graded.
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Bangor West
	22 Hard	★★ End of the Century — 3 attempts - with James Hutton	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Ethan Harley
The start of the arete upto a crimp is in.
	22 ~21	★ Pyromaniac Direct Start — 2 attempts - with James Hutton	Sport 9m	★ Good	Ethan Harley
Once you get the side pull and compression start it climbs low for the grade.
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Bangor West
	24	★ Starfish - with Bojana Pavlovic	Sport 10m, 3	★ Good	Thomas Jones
It did not spark joy
	18	★★ Lucky's Roof - with Bojana Pavlovic	Sport 5m, 5	★★ Very Good	Thomas Jones
From the block
	22	★★ Felix - with Bojana Pavlovic	Sport 10m, 5	★★ Very Good	Thomas Jones
From the back of the cave
	21	★★ Marathon Man - with Adam Brygula	Sport 12m, 7	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
Had a lot of fun traversing through the overhang. To make cleaning easier, suggest seconding. An alpine butterfly will save you having to pull the entire rope through.
	22	★★ Felix — 2 attempts - with Adam Brygula	Sport 10m, 5	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
The first couple of moves from the back of the cave still don't seem doable for me, almost had a ground fall onto the rock below when deadpointing, so I did the rock start. Still some awesome roof climbing to be had, and the crimpy exit from the cave onto the headwall was quite good too.
	18	★★ Lucky's Roof - with Adam Brygula	Sport 5m, 5	★ Good	Michael Wilson
Repeat from the grade 18 rock start
	22	★★ A pinch and a punch - with Adam Brygula	Sport 12m, 4	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
Repeat
	17	★★ The Whorl - with Adam Brygula	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
Top rope set up
	21	★★ Tits and Bits — 2 attempts - with Adam Brygula	Sport 10m, 2	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
Bouldery start with poor feet, sweaty fingers and damp rock lost me the onsight. Cool route though!
	13	★ Whippersnapper - with Adam Brygula	Sport 8m, 3	★ Good	Michael Wilson
Top rope set up
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Bangor West
	20	★★ Lucky's Roof - with Courtney Darville, Luke Dennis	Sport 5m, 5		James A
Cairn start
Mon 16th Oct 2023 - Bangor West
	17	★★ Reno	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Will Powell
Fun little climb, was able to reach the start without jumping.
	17 Easy	★★ The Whorl	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Will Powell
Cool climb, thread felt a bit dodgy to me.
	22	★★ A pinch and a punch — 2 attempts - with Adam Brygula	Sport 12m, 4	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
Took some time to figure out the beta around the pinch, but it went on the next go. Good climbing on this one!
	22 Easy	★ Pyromaniac Direct Start - with Adam Brygula	Sport 9m	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
Awesome sequence at the start, quite bouldery.
	20 Easy	★ Pyromaniac — 2 attempts - with Adam Brygula	Sport 9m, 3	★ Good	Michael Wilson
Slipped off the early sloper to miss the onsight attempt. But good climbing to be had on this
	19	★★ Fixed Steps - with Adam Brygula	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
Beautiful blunt arete with some smears and pockets
	17	★★ The Whorl - with Adam Brygula	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
Nice warm up
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Bangor West
	19 Hard	★ Buzz Boys Beat - with Jesse A	Sport 9m, 3		Arden Burrell
tried without using the crack and it felt impossible
Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Bangor West
	22	★★ Go Go Gadget Arms	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Michael Wilson
Got some links happening, but will need some strong fingers for it! A super reachy but awesome move above the first bolt is the highlight for me.
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Bangor West
	21 Hard	★★ Tits and Bits — 2 attempts	Sport 10m, 2	★★★ Classic	Arden Burrell
Awesome Boulder problem to start with a tricky sequence on bad feet. Then jugs after the second bolt. A really fun climb overall
Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Bangor West
	18	FA Can't Stop The Knee Lock — 2 attempts	Trad 5m		Matthew Robbins
A cheeky little FA while scouting around Bangor. Technically its a high-ball but I've put this up as a trad route as I'd recommend gear be present for the final mantle. It's somewhat committing and the fall becomes pretty significant the further along the off-width you get. (PS: This crack is not a route on TheCrag but surely this has been done before. Will happily rename and change details if so.)
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Bangor West
	21	★★ Tits and Bits — 3 attempts	Sport 10m, 2		Aurora Pandora
Win title of worst onsighter
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Bangor West
	22	★★ End of the Century	Sport 10m, 3	★★ Very Good	Peter Melouney
Great climb! Bouldery and balancy start and couple powerful moves. Really fun.
	22 ~21	★★ Felix	Sport 10m, 5	★★ Very Good	Peter Melouney
Fun alternative to luckys roof. Only single bolt at top so down climbed to clean.
	20	★ Shire Riot - with Henry Tanpanny	Sport 10m, 4		Anthony Mackay
based on Joe's send, it's a ball busting first move, then forgettable easy climbing, and hard to clean?
	18 Hard	★ Zip - with Henry Tanpanny	Sport 8m		Anthony Mackay
heel hook, then pinch the bottom of the diagonal rail, then ??? pull really hard?
Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Bangor West
	15	★ Ali - with Kelly Ristovsky	Trad 5m		Anthony Mackay
cbf laybacking
Fri 28th Jul 2023 - Bangor West
	19	★★ Fixed Steps	Sport 10m, 3		Aa
fun smears
Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Bangor West
	21	★★ Tits and Bits - with King	Sport 10m, 2		Cassie Ma
bouldery crux; found short beta
Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Bangor West
	20	★ Sports Injury Clinic	Sport 10m, 2	★ Good	Murray
A bit desperate running it out to clip the first bolt! Stick clip this in future.
	21	★ Mars Apple — 2 attempts	Sport 8m, 3	Average	Murray
Went flailing off into the air before clipping the first bolt, brutal slab start, needed to swap shoes.
	23	★ My Girl — 2 attempts	Sport 10m, 2	★ Good	Murray
Ouch, maybe not the best way to get draws on GGGA. Fumbled the start so can't claim on the onsight, the rest was a bit desperate clawing. Bolts a bit suss!
	24	★★ Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix	Sport 10m	★ Good	Murray
Last time I tried this i got a finger injury. Good to get the dog off with a clean quick send after inspection and planning. Be sure to warm the fingers before getting in this one!
	16 ~17	★ New Generation	Sport 10m, 5	★ Good	Murray
Pretty stiff crux over first bolt. Going round the corner after doesn't add any value.
	23	★★ Another kind of rainbow	Sport 10m, 4	★★ Very Good	Murray
Great fun, great positions, one for the aspiring roof pumpers.
	13 ~14	★ Whippersnapper	Sport 8m, 3	★ Good	Murray
Poor slabby feet, sandbag?
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Bangor West
	18 Hard	★ Zip	Sport 8m		Anthony Mackay
i feel like hanging on the left is a mistake unless you are muscular and sweaty
	17 Hard	★★ Grandma's Wheelchair Direct	Sport 10m		Anthony Mackay
actually a comfortable relaxing climb once you sit in the wheelchair instead of panicking
	13	★ Zulu Trainer	Sport 10m, 2		Anthony Mackay
didn't use the bomber 2mm pebble this time
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Bangor West
	18	★ Zip - with Jesse A	Sport 8m	★ Good	Arden Burrell
Finally got it clean

Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,632 ascents.

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Ascents in Bangor West having Beta

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