Ascents in Jannali Reserve having Beta

Working on moves

20+ goes trying 1 arm then 5ish goes to stick the 2 hands. Well and truly learned how to generate on the jugundercling

Wanted to film without fumbling the mantle

Soft, V7 at most if short

Thought this was easier than the V7. More straightforward

Long moves to poor crimps leads to thought-provoking finish.

Bypass the 2nd bypass with a bomber handjam . Great route. Committing top out in the wet

Used the block/ledge for feet and it felt more like V6 for a taller guy like me.

just pull yourself into the scoop and use the slopey undercling; technical rather than physical or reachy. can be done from either side or even a standing start, v3.

Not that big of a jump byt fairly hard to stop the swing.

Nice climb, not sure about the grade though

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjMd910F1y4/

https://www.instagram.com/p/B0Hja_ejGQF/

https://www.instagram.com/p/B0Hja_ejGQF/

3rdish go. Really cool

Done ages ago. Great problem.

I did the climb the same way all people I know did it; starting along the crimp rail and then big move out to the jug left of the main scoop for the V5. Felt easier than a V8 this way, but hard to tell because I haven't climbed much in this grade range.

Used an intermediate. Sick. Nice start. Would have loved to jam but need to condition skin for that!

bit sandbagged if you're shorter.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBIJTAWj3g6/

Couldn't get any closer without sending it. Just didn't quite hold the swing.

Put this away very quickly. Almost 'flashed' it, a couple goes working the long move, back on from the start and sent.

Lol. Blew the topout... I'm gonna blame the dark.

Figuring out that big dyno crux to the lip was something special. Deserves the grade, especially for those who are wingspan or vertically challenged.

I really enjoyed working this! Bit of a tall person move though.

Easy but sooo good

Got schooled hard by the start. Just can’t figure it out. Close to getting second dyno though.

Big dynamic moves on great holds. Loads of jumpy fun.

Much Cooler than anticipated. However, I think a downgrade might be reasonable with the toehook-catch beta. Check my Instagram for the video

Almost there

Very cool moves. Better than QB I reckon.

Best of the lot IMO. Heel popped at the death to thwart me this time!

Spent session trying to work out move from pocket. Probably need to commit to the dyno/deadpoint rather than use the intermediate edges/pinches.

Reachy for a small boy like me, fired off the dyno a couple of times gonna take some sessions

Low holds tore my hands up quick all moves on their own not too hard but together makes it some work

fun moves, once your in with the toes on the jug its cruisy

Just fun, find the feet that meet your size and you good

Got it done !

Surprised myself by getting this 3rd go today after 3 days of climbing

Extra good when it wet.

Sometimes things just need to be downgraded

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CaBVk1IJE1-AG-QsVU6zyIEZTCqxENmIjgPM140/?utm_medium=share_sheet

Easier for apes

Mental note: make sure you get your core properly activated before jumping on this! Hard to hit crux holds precisely at night.

After getting destroyed on the start for triple, I gave this one a go. The start was equally as hard but actually felt possible. Once I nailed it, I linked the end which I’d already played with previously and got possibly the most satisfying send I’ve had in a long time.

goodbye skin, hello dyno jake

to break felt distant but move to pocket was cool. did the top with without the dyno, using sidepull/gaston out right above break - maybe this is the v6 variant?