Ascents in North East by Scott Godwin having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Got scared of the dirty top out. Clipped a draw on our fixed rap line that was hanging conveniently close.

With Graham. 1st pitch only (the hard one), then rapped because we were running out of daylight. Accessed by top roping the rigudon offwidth from the chains on Ramadan. Just barely managed the onsight. I had to fight for this one! Intricate sequences of fingerlocks and pulling on rattly faceholds. We had an incredible sunset on the walk out.

Really good. Some tricky bridging on the first pitch, and some really annoying shrubbery in the crack on the second. Amazing weather on this trip. Absolutely still, clear skies, and mild temperatures. I don't think I've ever experienced such silence on the Ben.

Zillionth lap, but still classic. Got a bit pumped.

Hard to walk past this without doing a lap.

Repeat. Always good.

Repeat. So good.

Definitely not 22 as the old guide suggests, but 19 seems a bit stingy. 20 seems fair. Probably harder if you have fat fingers.

The resident wedgie was cruising around while we were racking up, which seemed like a good omen. Technically not really an onsight, but I'm going to claim it anyway. Climbed the first few metres and found the crack dripping wet and freezing cold so I backed off to warm up my numb fingers and wait for the sun to come around. Second go - crack still dripping wet but a bit less freezing. All clean with the rope still through the first three or four runners. It turned into an epic battle against the pump in the last ten or fifteen metres. Grant led the second pitch, which as second pitches on this buttress go is a really good one. There were still a few patches of snow on the ground at the top from the dump two days beforehand.

Good to finally put this one to rest after flailing on it a few years back. Headpoint style. Toproped twice first and found the gaston beta for the crux to go surprisingly smoothly, and worked out the best wires for the critical placement (black brass offset at the back of the slot, with a grey peanut at the front). They seem pretty good, but probably still best not to fall from the moves just after the crux.

First 'real' trad pitch post surgery. Ankle felt pretty good on the walk in and out. No problem with the climbing. Great looking crag. The approach is pretty long for a day trip. I'll be back to stay for a couple of days next time. Note. Bring a spare 3m tape or cord for a rap anchor.

Repeat to make sure that it wasn't a fluke. Felt pretty solid. Dave got his redpoint after a few falls at the crux too.

Still hadn't managed this on top rope the week before, but got the clean lead first go today using Dave's beta for the crux. Much better that way.

So good.

Top rope solo. Figured out the sequence for doing the crux direct, but couldn't do the move without tension from the rope. Mantling the ledge to the left works, but feels like cheating.

Amazing pitch. I almost pumped off when I went in the wrong direction through the first steep bulge, then hesitated and climbed up and down for ages in the corner before the traverse. It looks so ridiculously unlikely that I couldn't convince myself that it was the right way to go, but when I finally committed it was much easier than it looks. Thanks Nate for patiently belaying me for so long.

Led to put the rope up then again on top rope. Gorge classic.

Really good. Worth coming back for.

Hard

Seconding to clean Nate's gear.

Offwidth practice with John. Twice on lead and once on top rope to unstick the rope.

One lap on lead then a few more on top rope.

Onsight for the mega second pitch. We skipped the offwidth by rapping in. Had about three metres of rope left at the top of the pitch. Great climbing, easier than Ramadan. Lots of great stances mean it never gets too strenuous.

Classic gorge climbing. Packs a lot into 10 metres. Was very glad to find the good RP to protect the weird cruxy bit.

Really nice climbing.

Used the tree down low.

Repeat. Really good.

Top roped after Will to clean the gear. Always good.

Another lap to make sure it wasn't a fluke. Felt tired from climbing at the Ben yesterday but managed to perform for the sunday afternoon peanut gallery on the gorge walk. I'm sure they were secretly hoping that I'd fall off

Tickage. Finshed direct up the thin crack instead of doing the shoulder exploder move out to the right. Supposed to be a grade harder if you go direct but I actually found it a bit easier. 2nd shot today. 4 in total.

Had struggled with this one previously. Felt great today. Seems to go much better if you get the sequence of locks right from the start.

Really good. Gear is better than it looks.

Really good. Tough at the bottom.

Calling this a flash because I followed Grant's advice and pre-placed a couple of runners on abseil. It would have been tricky to place them blind on lead. Nice, balancy climbing.

Really good climbing, very well protected despite appearances. Feels a bit loose at the top. Calling this one a flash because I watched John and Mike sussing the gear on it.

Cleaning up an old dog. Classic gorge crack climbing. Intense for a short route.

Fell off pretty promptly at first bolt. Couldn't figure it out and pulled through to last bolt. Seems pretty tricky.

First proper jamming test post surgery. Ankle felt stiff but ok.

Had a play on top rope. Did the crux moves but the shoulder wasn't happy about that gaston. Seems very contrived to keep going straight up to the last bolt rather than traverse across the horizontal break to Death Row.

I think I'd done this once before ages ago. Tricky start.

Repeat lap. Classic.

Cleaning for Dave.