Routes in South East

This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route. R.Parkyn, Aug 95.

Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains.

1. 10m. Scramble up to the ledge on the NE side of the Moai.

2. 20m. Climb the corner onto the pedestal then up to the bolt. From the bolt move right 1m then up via a flake. Trend rightward to another bolt then straight up. Use the anchors of 'Ancient Astronaught' to belay/rappel (a single 50m rope doubled just makes it down). Take a small selection of small to mid-sized SLCDs.

Note: the first bolt is currently loose, the rap chains seem pretty lightweight.

R.Eberhard, R.Parkyn, Aug/94.

Between 'Unzip' and 'Winkle' climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.

Starting at a prominent corner with twin cracks.

1. 35m. Up the corner to belay at tree or notch.

2. 30m. Continue up the main crack-line above small tree to the big ledge on top of the buttress.

Continue as for "Bert's Fear" (45m) up the ridge or rap down your choice of three anchors right from ledge - Brown Madonna / Pleasant Screams.

Straight up centre of slab, 2m R of 'Twilight Groping'. 5 UBs to chains.

Best done as one pitch however, the easier first pitch to this ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right.

1. 25m (22). Straight up the face just R of Fiddlesticks. A crimpy crux to get off the ground, then flow up the rest with pleasant moves.

2. 25m (25). Continue up the line of bolts to the anchors. Crux is just past the third bolt.

Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.

A long pitch of overhanging climbing, starting at the left end of the wave platform seperating tha Paradiso proper from the Aquaphobia Wall. Long reaches between incut holds characterise this line, which has been known to shed the odd piece of rock. Popular warmup for the harder routes, or a greatpitch to work in its own right. DBB.

Start 3m R of 'Tour de France', towards R end of central slab. Follow L line bolts after 3rd bolt. Trend L at top to chains shared with 'Les Grands Ensembles' & 'TDF'. 9 UBs. NOTE: top section (to chains) is more technical due to block with holds shedding (May 2017).

L-most end of main slab, 3m R of 'Bastard Cancer'. 5 UBs to chains.

On the face to the right of Drama Queen.

R-most line of bolts on slab, 2m R of 'Eye Bolt Route'. 4 UBs to DUBB.

Arête just L of main slab. Nice rock. Bouldery start, can pre-clip first bolt from easy corner to R. 4 UBs (5 if you use last UB on 'Death Unto Racists') finishing at DBB shared with 'DUR'.

This has now been bolted.

Popular route with a testing initial wall, followed by a dynamic crux. If you make it through all that to the ledge at 3/4 height your doing well. Its in the bag.....isn't it? Fully bolted with a DBB.

Ascends the blunt arête at the R end of the cliff. Try climbing it blindfolded! 4 UBs to chains.

Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.

Good thin climbing up face to L of 'The Blind Leading The Crippled' arête. 4 UBs to anchors.

The classic of the wall with constant good and varied moves.

A two pitch escape route to get you back up the rap route. Grade 12, 16

Fully bolted now

Thin crack through hand sizes and off width near top. Wires useful in first half. Belay and Abseil Point 45m from ground.

The best way to do the link up is in one long pitch. Past two U bolts to a flake with good natural gear, then to the ledge (as for the end of 'Burning Spear P1') then up past bolts to DBB loweroffs.

You can just lower on a 50m rope but be careful not to drop it in the sea in high winds.

Start 2m R of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'DBACR'.

L-most line of bolts on slab, starting just behind the small tree. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'Twilight Groping'.

1. 25m (25) This pitch doesn't get done much since Deep Play was established, the latter being easier with much lower ropedrag and admin.

2. 40m (25) This is the "money pitch". Mostly Bolts (about 8), a few pieces of trad gear where the climbing is easier.

The classic of the crag

Classic of the crag. Sustained interesting climbing the whole way. Excellent.

Great moves on good rock up through two bulges that each have their own intricacies

Absolute classic. Up the arête to the left of Brown Madonna. Consistent, exposed, technical moves. Double ropes can reduce drag, but aren't mandatory.

Delicate climbing. Starts 2m L of 'Bastard Cancer'. 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'BC'.

Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.

Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).

Lovely climbing passing a series of small overhangs on the right side of the wall.

A must do if you are in this area of the Pipes. Trad with DBB anchor stations at the top of both pitches.

Classic. Stand start from jug in cave. Strenuous roof climbing to turn lip, then face to top out.

The bolted arête to the L of 'Shock Wave'. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off. S.Young, Jan 07.

Popular variant first-pitch to 'The Free Route'. Mostly Bolts, a few pieces of small trad gear where the climbing is easier.

Classic introduction to pumpy and steep sandstone climbing. The anchor clip can be a bit of a stretch.

1. 15m Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB.

2. 25m Sport. Fully bolted. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains. The missing first bolt was recently replaced (Dec 2018)

Start just left of the crackline. Crank leftwards onto the overhanging rounded arête, then up and over bulge via pockets and horizontals to slab (DBB). Lower off, or step right to finish as for Welcome to the Dark Ages.

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

1. Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake to 2 bolt anchor.

2. Abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Squeeze through the slot to rubble ledge and big spike.

4. 55m The Stegosaurus Pitch! Great fun. Place minimal pro on this to avoid drag, your primarily protecting the second, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney.

Short easy climb, great for beginners or first time leaders. 3 UBs to DUBB.

On the left side of the the steepening wall behind the big tree root. Thoughtful and fun.

The best route at the quarry? Continually interesting climbing up the groove feature and bulge. 4 UBs to anchors.

Entertaining climbing up the arete with a cut loose move to boot!

Some thin moves through the first section, followed by pleasant climbing up the head-wall. Very worthwhile.

Slab and headwall just to the left of where the track meets the cliff.

Start at slab just right of enormous right facing corner, directly below a disused falcon perch high in the corner. Follow corner above, then before reaching the falcon perch make exciting moves up and left across the overlaps, and continue up the wall above to the lower offs.

Start as for 'Oh Joyous Lobotomy'. At the 3rd UB head R past a final UB to anchors. The FH between the 3rd & 4th bolts doesn't offer additional protection and there's less rope drag if it's not clipped.

A quality route on steep, clean rock (original 2 pitches). Start 4m to the R of Pulpit Chimney at a squeeze chimney with two chockstones. Follow the chimney directly and climb to the top of the huge detached flake, (Belay possible) Climb the short crack to a ledge (possible to traverse L to join Skyline Minor (11)) continue directly up the steep crack to belay just short of the Buttress Pinnacle.

Face climbing.

Start: wall L of Andromeda

Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the UBs. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier (Aug 2017), having lost a handy jug, adding a grade (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware!

Both pitches are awesome.

Start: Shares the same start as Twice.

1. 28m (19) Climb the black streaked corner to the roof, continue through it via the LH line (crux) and up the thin crack to ledge belay L of the base of the Twice corner.

2. 46m (18) Follow the corner of Twice for 6m to a steep diagonal flake system leading out L towards the arête. Layaway and bridge the airy flake system until it eases. Continue up R of the arête to reach U-bolt rap station. Rap down to huge Linda chock stone (50m) Another rap station accesses the LH end of 'Battle Cruiser' Ledge (25m).

The prominent crack up the front of Cossack Column. One of the best routes at the Organ Pipes.

1. 15m (19) As for Tartarus. Belay in small corner just below narrow ledge that heads right.

2. 45m (20) Travers right to the arete and follow intermittent crack lines up the column. Exit right under the block to the DBB.

Starts on the left side of the wall, with the crux moves coming in the initial steeper section and a thinnish move at the very top.

1. 25m 24. Crank through the overhang at the base of the NE arete. Continue up the arete and the wall to its left.

2. 10m 20. Blast straight up from the belay ledge then trend right via the last U to finish on the right side of the arete. No natural gear required on either pitch.

What a surprise - thin start followed by good climbing to the top.

A Sand River classic. Steep and athletic climbing, with a dyno, multiple heel hooks and an energy sapping finish.

Start up the prominent crack line. A tricky layback sequence leads to the overlap. Make a technical traverse 4m left then finish up the pillar / arête feature to DBB.

Link up. Start up 'Jesus Built My Hammer Drill'. At 3rd UB, head L to join 'Drilling In The Name Of' at its 4th UB. Finish at 'DITNO' anchors.

The wall left of the Pulpit. Climb up the crack on L of Pulpit for 3m them move L and straight up wall to small roof. Turn roof on R continue up crack to ledge then follow the hand crack to bolted belay at 32m. Originally continued up Skyline Minor but most people rap off here. Be careful rapping off on 60m rope!

One of the classics of the crag. Long and pumpy, on positive holds, until the final rooflet is mounted and the mood of the route changes. The initial roof is regarded as the crux, but the final rising traverse to the DBB is a heartbreaker.

A long and varied pitch up the right trending corner system that seperates the main overhanging portion of the Paradisio (on the left) from the more sympatheticaly angled wall (on the right). DBB.

Steadily increasing difficulties up the steepening technical wall.

The line up the middle of the main overhang, right of fire wall.

Start as for 'Serial Driller' but follow R line of bolts after 3rd bolt. 8 UBs to chains.

hand, fist, finger crack

Start: L of Savage Journey is a dirty corner chimney and L of this is a fine looking north facing crack.

The obvious chimney. Most people belay on spacious ledge above the huge chockstone.

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

1. 15m (18) 5 bolts. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

2. 15m (22) 7 bolts. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the ground using the climber as a counterweight.

Shares 2 bolts with Phoenix, before cranking through the right side of big roof to a DBB.

Bouldery start as for Glowing Embers, but continue straight up through overhang to a slopey anchor clip.

A highly entertaining climb with terrific positions. Start at far right hand side of the cave. Bouldery start up the corner (stick clipping the second bolt is the way to go) then traverse out left along the very lip of the roof. Follow the thin crack past the slab and the final overhang.

The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.

Past two U bolts to flake with good natural gear. Continue up to ledge to join the top of 'Burning Spear p1'

Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir

1. 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar

2. 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem

Start: Crack system to the L, around arete of Brown Madonna.

1. 26m (18) Crack to corner

2. 36m (18) Crack to 1 m below bush, then traversee L to arete and up.

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

Up the corner from the natural belay bench. Challenging, sustained, airy climbing with good gear.

1. 48m (16) Follow the crack to the first belay ledge, 10m below the roof.

2. 32m (18) Jam through the roof to a ledge and continue up the finger crack and above to an easier finish.

Rap from DBB anchors (2 raps).

Steep and exposed. Up corner system to level with anchors on Deputy Warden, then blast up the steep wall to the right.

Well protected exciting moves on big features provides a very enjoyable climbing experience.

P1 21 step right around arete and follow bolts just right of arete up sculpted rock to finish pitch on arete. P2 14 finger crack with medium wires.

Varied and sustained on glorious rock. At the top of it's grade and difficult to on-sight.

On the left end of the main overhanging 'Fire Wall'. Boulder up the short left arete then trend right on immaculate rock to a rest at the base of a pillar. Up pillar to roof, and a strenuous pull on flakes.