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Routes in Douglas

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Showing all 31 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
13 Binocular Pocket

Starts on the small boulder. Straight up flaky face with small holds to a hangerless bolt. Continue up featured face staying to the right of small orange caves. Place a crucial #10 hex into another pocket (up and L). A big reach for small pockets and up slab to the "binocular pocket" (#6 hex), then easy slab to top. Anchors for top roping can be set up.

FFA: Lee Skidmore, Philippa Newton & Steve Baskerville, 1998

Mixed trad 11m, 1 Douglas
14 Small Wonder

Starts 2m right of "Binocular Pocket". Climb up past a hangerless bolts (missing it's nut) to horizontal break. Then up past pocket and second hangerless bolt then slightly left through bulge with optional #2.5 SLCD. Finish on run-out but easy slab. Anchors for top roping can be set up.

#missing_nut

FFA: Lee Skidmore, Philippa Newton & Steve Baskerville, 1998

Mixed trad 12m, 2 Douglas
18 R Dechossify

Up the face then up arete then move R to ledge and DBB.

Run out, chossy, and potential ground falls. Needs a couple of extra bolts. Loose block at start.

FA: Jodie Rummer & Luen Warneke, 18 Jan 2019

FFA: Jodie Rummer & Luen Warneke, 2 Apr 2019

Sport 9m, 3 Douglas
19 R Toechoss

Up the face, following a weakness up L to clip the last FH of Dechossify and then up to DBB.

Run out, chossy, and potential ground falls. Needs a couple of extra bolts.

FA: Luen Warneke & Jodie Rummer, 18 Jan 2019

FFA: Luen Warneke, 6 Apr 2019

Sport 9m, 3 Douglas
17 Viva La Choss

Starting at the base of the large outcrop, climb up to ledge and easy slab to the first FH. Up steeper ground pasting another two FHs before trending L to DBB.

FFA: Jodie Rummer, Sean Sullivan & Luen Warneke, 24 Jul 2019

Sport 10m, 3 Douglas
21 Nasty But Nourishing

Starts 2m right of "Small Wonder". Climb up short corner crack (medium-size cam) to ledge and corner to break then straight up to big pocket (large cam). Undercling and up staying right of the fixed hanger, traverse up lip of large cave a few moves then over lip of cave (crux) into large corner. Finish on run-out but easy slab. Anchors for top roping can be set up.

FA:

FFA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

Mixed trad 13m, 1 Douglas
17 Triple Connection

Start at "Binocular Pocket". Move up and diagonally right past the first hangerless bolt of BP, continuing diagonally up right though to hangerless bolt of SW, keep moving right to clip fixed hanger bolt of NBN when at chest height. Stay left of the bolt and move through bulge (crux) to run-out but easy finish on slab.

FFA: Lee Skidmore, Jason Shaw & Steve Baskerville, 1998

Sport 16m, 3 Douglas
22 Chosscrop

Starting at the base of the large outcrop, climb straight up the chimney to the arete then through the crimpy, boulderly mid-section and onto easier ground. DBB.

FA: Luen Warneke, 31 Jul 2019

Sport 10m, 5 Douglas
10 Doze

Starting just R of Seista, straight up to cave and trend R and up.

FFA: Luen Warneke, 22 Feb 2019

Trad 9m Douglas
14 snake pit

a risky boulder/ free solo. good crimps but can get overstretched. possible to top rope but wouldn't be worth the time then. a fun free solo in my opinion.

FA: Jack Preedy, 7 Dec 2019

Boulder 6m Douglas
10 Seista

Found on far left side of crag when facing the wall. Poxy as, start in crack move up to top out.

Top rope 8m Douglas
14 Small Wonder Direct Start

The thin mantel move between the boulders then finish on "Small Wonder".

FFA: Steve Baskerville, 1998

Mixed trad 13m, 2 Douglas
V0 White Tipped Stand Start

Stand start.

FA: Jodie Rummer, 10 Oct 2018

Boulder 4m Douglas
11 Stinkbug

Up flake in centre to vegetated ledge then up short overhung crack on yellow rock. (Can be top roped off tree behind climb)

FA: Stuart Anderson, 2009

Top rope 12m Douglas
12 Chossable

Up the face and crack with some surprisingly nice moves. Chossy.

FFA: Luen Warneke, 27 Nov 2018

Trad 8m Douglas
17 Idle Apathy

2m right of "Sinkbug" up corner to ledge under orange pillar (trad pro) move right to pillar arete, clip hangerless bolt, then up pillar (crux) to finish. Easy tree belay. Bolt is missing nut. #missingbolt

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

FFA: Jason Shaw & Steve Baskerville, 1998

Mixed trad 13m, 1 Douglas
V0+ White Tipped Sit Start

Sit start. The hollow under the rock makes it hard to get footholds.

FA: Luen Warneke, 10 Oct 2018

Boulder 4m Douglas
V0 Easy Street

Starting on crimps, throw for jug and mantle.

FA: Luen Warneke, 13 Oct 2018

Boulder 2m Douglas
V0+ Up The Backside

Sit start.

Watch out for the chossy mid section - avoid by trending left slightly.

FA: Chris Beric, 10 Oct 2018

Boulder 4m Douglas
V0+ Sexy Shark

Sit start. Layback start on the two obvious holds under the overhang.

FA: Chris Beric, 10 Oct 2018

Boulder 4m Douglas
10 baby snake Boulder 5m Douglas
16 Taipans nest

Fun short climb located directly behind/west of the main lazy wall anchor bolts. Can attach a top rope anchor around the large boulder at the top. Start from the prominent jug just before the diagonal crack then work a heel hook up into the crack, there is a pinch in the small “cave” but it’s quiet a squeeze as there is a lack of good holds (very crimpy but sharp). Also the crux. From here it’s a easy climb to the top.

FA: Jack Preedy, 7 Dec 2019

Top rope 8m Douglas
12 Dreamer

Starting just left of Binocular Pocket, make your way up the small crack to the ledge just above the first bolt of Binocular Pocket. Traverse ledge right using pockets as hand holds, clipping Small Wonder 's second bolt and continue past Nasty But Nourishing (below the bolt - can reach up and clip if you're tall enough) and then up on the left of Stinkbug.

FFA: Luen Warneke, 22 Aug 2018

Mixed trad 12m, 3 Douglas
18 Chossgate

Up the obvious crack, traversing R at the top and finishing around the corner. Rock belay.

FFA: Glen Hayford & Luen Warneke, 15 Nov 2018

Trad 14m Douglas
19 Chosscrop VS

Start up slab as per Viva La Choss. Then up between the two bolted climbs. Join into Chosscrop at the mantel and up to DBB.

FA: Luen Warneke, 31 Jul 2019

Top rope 10m Douglas
Nasty But Alimentative

Open project.

TradProject 13m Douglas
V2 V2 Sit Start

Sit start on steep wall below "Triple Connection".

Boulder 2m Douglas
17 slaby snake

yet to be climbed. 3m to the right of Nest and straight up the slab.

Top rope 9m Douglas
19 Chossgate Variant

Open project. Follow the crack line up and around R to a loose, bouldery and slightly overhung finish. Don't pike R onto slab early.

TradProject 12m Douglas
19 Cheesychoss

Open project. Up face (2 x Coeur Pulse) and step R onto slab (1 x Coeur Pulse). Up slab to DBB (2 x Coeur Pulse).

Requires 5 x Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm

Mixed tradProject 6m, 3 Douglas
Sweetchoss

Open project. Up face (2 x Coeur Pulse), over bulge (1 x Coeur Pulse) to DBB (2 x Coeur Pulse).

Requires 5 x Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm

Mixed tradProject 8m, 3 Douglas

Showing all 31 routes.

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