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Routes in The Playground for selected grade

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Showing all 7 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
20 Fist Full of Ants

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Allen McGill, Scott Johnson & Susan Dyer, 1991

Mixed trad 20m, 4 Mt Stuart
20 Warlock

Starting on the arête to the left of "Par 3". This fun climb is a mega classic with spectacular views and providing a true feeling of exposure. This awe inspiring climb offering excellent photo opportunities with powerful starting moves and an interesting mix of crimps and balancey high block steps for the rest, up to the lower-off.

FFA: Mark Gommers, Rik Wittkopp & Adam Hardaker, 2000

FA: Mark Gommers, Adam Hardaker & Rik Wittkopp, 2002

Sport 18m, 8 Mt Stuart
20 Wimps in the Gym

Starts in corner move up then traverse left before roof to carrot on the arete then up past two more carrots then left to the fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Matthew Swait, 1998

Mixed trad 16m, 4 Mt Stuart
20 Suspicion

A slabby adventure. Start as for Holiday to the pedestal. Step across the void to the R (FH) and crank up to the slab (crux). Now delicately up the slab passing two more FH's.

FA: Mark Gommers & John Blake, 1992

Mixed trad 23m, 3 Mt Stuart
20 Big Green Maggot Riddon Tripe Farm

Crap name - good climb. The scene of Lee Skidmore's brush with death (4m grounder onto back on grisly boulders). Don't let that deter you though, there is bomber pro. Starts right around the corner from the above two routes, about 15m from S. Up the overhanging layback crack then L to arête (BR). Up L side of arête past another BR and some natural pro in pockets to ledge. Finish up the short face behind (BR). Mind rope drag, or use two.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

Trad 23m Mt Stuart
20 Little Birdman

Start up Eye Of The Tiger until about 3.5m below the obvious chockstone and at an undercling flake/pockets in the L wall. Make committing moves L and follow the flake system (small wires) to join the final moves of Two Hands Are Better Than One at the last BR on that route.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2000

Trad 20m Mt Stuart
20 Suspicion VF

As for S but keep traversing R to the thin crack and up it.

FA: Mark Gommers & John Blake, 1992

Trad 25m Mt Stuart

Showing all 7 routes.

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