Ascents in The Pinnacle

Opened route

Opened route

Really worked hard. Well worth it

1 rest

Horrible time for me as a leader, didn't have enough gear, route wasn't obvious, had to borrow bolts on the climb to the left, the move through the roof is horribly difficult for a "19", apparently my second thought it was pretty good though so I don't know. Would be good if there was something more descriptive about it or notes of some kind

What a route, if the flake kept going it'd be 3star for sure.. fun as can be though!

Where do I even start with this? It was an unforgettable climb. 😅

After 3 days on, Em and I scrambled our way down to the base of the pinnacle full of froth and stoke. After a short hiatus to fend off a green ant attack (little bastards!), we found the base and roped up. I immediately felt the fatigue when I pulled on and realised I was a little short on cams; double #4s would have made the starting 6-8 metres much nicer. After bumping/shuffling a 3+4, I flopped onto the first rest ledge!

The next 10 metres of layback flake was absolutely divine. Super enjoyable climbing on good gear with beautiful lay-backing and jamming up the flake. I had a small lead fall when a footer blew; footers did seem to be constantly popping, and Em later noted she was getting sprayed with rocks while I was climbing.

So here I am, end of the flake, stoked as heck, surrounded by small wire placements, analysing how to tackle the roof when I slipped (or a footer blew, who even knows!) and I take the biggest god damn trad whip of my life.



The universe switches into slow mo so I can see my self yeeting down the cliff towards the ledge, hear my two nuts and a cam pop and so I can watch Ems shocked expression as I plummet. I stop roughly a metre above her, close enough that we could fist bump, maybe 2 metres from the deck. The grand whipping total is 15 meters, almost half the route! 🎉

Somehow I am completely unscathed. If the 4th piece had blown or Em hadn’t done a ground anchor or if I tapped the ledge or if I’d been slightly higher up, I’d at the very least have two broken legs and more likely have been much worse.

I think I’m going to have to think a lot about the circumstances around the fall and figure out what factors led into such a big whip. I definitely was very lucky today and am going to take away a few life lessons thats for sure!

Unlock the crux sequence to make this an easy climb!

I made a meal of this. 21.

i forgot to put this one in !

Type 2 fun! the exit isnt to dangerous as a bolt on suspended animation is in the perfect position as you exit the chimney.

Redpointed the second pitch later after being benighted first time

One of my favourite climbs on Stuart.

Definitely worth the time! A really fun mixed route with good gear, good rock and in a great location. It never gets too hard for the grade but there are a couple of nice interesting sections. Could be done as an awesome single 50m pitch but we did not have enough bolt plates. We also didn't have enough extendable draws so we had a lot of rope drag by the time we reached the belay 35m up and 15m from the top. Whether you do it as a single pitch or in two quite a few extendable draws will help.

Hardest beginning to get off the ground, considering all the rope stretch going on if you dont hit the moves. Great mixed climb. route weaves back and forth a bit as required. Love this climb, epic adventure that requires a good share of endurance to get up. Climbed it as a 2nd, slings will help keep the rope line well, otherwise you might swing out when pulling gear. Did it as a single pitch.

Ran out of quickdraws and did it therefore in two pitches, the second one on the ringbolts of another route. Not sure which one. It was nice anyway!

Free large BD nut now on the first pitch. Thorn tree is still very much alive. Don't worry about gear larger than BD 2.

onsight first pitch

Pretty excellent climbing with a crux that'll make you think and then remain fairly sustained till the next belay. A size 3 BD C4 Cam comes in handy for that pitch too where it's a bit run out.

So glad we went and did this climb today, it is a total must do in Townsville! Such nice rock with such great climbing in such a lovely location makes this a true classic in my opinion. All 3 pitches are fun and total quality. There's not a dirty, dull or dodgy moment in the whole 50meters. Would be mega classic if pitch one and three were longer but only because it was so good it left me wishing for more! Go do it, for sure. Liam lead P1&3 and me P2.

Mega, amazing continuous face climbing on great rock and in a superb position. Needs the carrots at the top and the 2nd belay replaced

Second pitch takes gear. Third pitch feels a fair bit easier than 20?