Ascents in Secret Crags having Beta

Sliced finger on thinness

If it was another 10m it’d get 3 stars. Climbing to the arete was underwhelming but once there it was gorgeous.

Good, hard.

Nice little hand jam finish, which no one else decided to use to my dismay.

Hated this in the summer but willing to admit it's way more enjoyable in the cooler weather and when you figure out some beta.

Managed to work most the moves this session but still really struggling with the link in the middle.

Cannot figure out how to get onto the left jug from out of the cave.

Pretty goey! Crack too skinny for hand in many places and smeary feet. Pure crack experience for a few meters! Happy to get a 1 sit on toppie.

Very nice! Great for a warm up being fairly easy until the final crux sequence.

Was a little confused by this one. Took the more obvious line to the left at the top but assuming that's not the intended route.

If you're a shorty like me the first move off the ground is pretty cooked, had to do a mini dyno. Also a few technical sections thoughout but it all flows quite nicely once you know the moves. Ended up enjoying this one.

top ropped approximately 3/4 of the route as the top anchors weren't reached on the previous lead attempt, cool climb. Keen to lead in the future

First try today. Definitely climbed much better than last week but the top was still tricky.

Thought this would be an easy tick after doing the RH variant but the ending on this is really awkward climbing. Definitely feels harder than 21 to me at the moment until I find better beta.

Not too bad after working the moves but still pretty physical for the grade. Deserves a bit more traffic than it gets.

Managed to tick this despite some pretty horrid conditions - sick, bung shoulder, hot weather, march flies, and Bailey belaying. Gonna say it is easy for the grade as others have suggested, pretty similar to sushi quest in my opinion.

Accidentally did an inbred version of this and sushi quest where I started on sushi quest and linked onto death by parsnip - would recommend. Gonna try the real climb next time.

Don't want to admit how many sessions this took. Got forced out onto the face at the end due to some wet rock, this ended up being better beta for me thankfully.

Blew it after the last bolt/crux and had to take a rest on gear.

Good little warmup.

Very hard second half. Got worked.

Pumped and scared when the spice came on!

Fun jugs with no obvious crux

2 goes on this, definitely sand bagged. I was trying to go right onto the face too early on my first go. A good pumpy route.

My kind of route. I don't think the span is that long though.

Sick climbing. Didn’t want to do any red pointing grades today but thought I’d give this a whirl. Got sprayed down by some lovely locals chicka and worked through cruz. Compared to sushi quest (more sustained) this is more cruxy with a couple cool powerful boulder moves.

Will come back for this!

Pumped and gassed putting draws on. Should’ve just read this as spicy. Not warmup 😂. Fun climb though and makes you think when you come out of the cavelet onto face. I’d give this a pumpy 20.

Start was interesting, middle section seems to involve climbing into “Death by Parsnip”, or a fairly contrived way that seems considerably harder (but not in a “good” way), didn’t fancy either so stripped it off the second last bolt.

Indeed, quite spicy!

Punted like a true punter.

Kinda tricky to get onto this climb but the actual climb on arete is lovely with some good exposure and views.

Was told this was easier than sushi quest but disagree. Was also rinsed and outta beans so came down.

Shaky warm up. Still shaking the cobwebs off.

Punchy movement with good flow. Getting back into it after being bit wobbly after taking a scary whip on gear few weeks back but did all the moves to blow the cobwebs out and felt good.

Cool route with holds right where you need them, thought about doing the extension but it didn’t look to have an anchor? 🤔

Fun flowy route! I honestly found “Sushi Quest” harder though, and that seemed about 23 to me. Caroline Chang assures me this one is harder though. 🤷‍♀️

Spicy goodness! Got more pumped than expected on this one!

Fun one!

Felt kinda’ lost the whole way!

Nice climb.

Easy beta method.