Routes in Townsville for selected grade

The thin suspect crack 1m left of Gone in Sixty Seconds straight up to join into the crux of Portrait. Take up to size 1 Camalot and 7 draws. Have a solid belayer you trust from crack to first bolt is commiting.

An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Up R past four bolts, then a traverse out R onto super exposed overhanging wall. Devious bouldery crux then pumpy jugging up right to top out the wall.

Extension to Kneebar Nexus. Battle onward through final core intensive section. Break out onto steep juggy terrain some 50m off the deck. Power through top roof on superb holds to triumph atop Supernova Wall. Redirect through Kneebar Nexus anchor to avoid being trapped dangling out in space.

The "Supernova" extension! After the crux, step L and keep on pumping which makes it longer and more full-on. Brutal!

8m right of Cognition. Up to ledge, then follow pillar to the unrelenting rail. No forgiveness for the unrepentant.

Straight up the white streak

Branch L off Spookeye p1. Find the key to the stopper start and be rewarded with brilliant pockets.

Access via 35m rap from bolts above Lionsgate. Exceptionally steep and pumpy by Stuart standards.

DS to OMF flowing through a variety of interesting sequences.

Break right from the 3rd bolt of MS to gain the corner. Funky crux through the roof to the engaging 3D groove above.

The shorter version of The Kraken.

Start as "Gone in 60 Seconds" then trend left at the FH half way up.

Straight up after the 2 bolts to get on the starting ledge of Rampage.

The bolts just to the L of Vice Grip.

Starting a few metres right of Neurofriend.

LHV of Imported Products. Using a high LH hold, and moving up into the top of Imported Products.

Slopey, crimpy and hard. Classic Steve sandbag.

Sit-start to screamer. Classic and sustained up a steep arete. The convenient block/flake is not in as a starting hold for the right foot.

Note: The starting left side flake broke April 2024. The climb has since been repeated and remains at the same grade.

Up the runnel to the sidepull and slopey topout.

As for above problem but then move R via some small slopey holds.

A harder line the traverses the crackli

On the other side of this boulder from "Epitome of a Man". SS off the block.

Sit start

Up the middle of the face, short and hard. Previously known as the mono project that Live Lundemo came very close to.

The low start to The Testicle Mantle. Done with RH on edge and low LH pinch.

Continue "Fall from Grace" left along the slopey lip till you reach the other arete and mantle here.

Start just to the right of “Timeout”, with both hands using the small roof as an undercling. Pull on and throw up and left for the flake and finish up this.

The original problem, staring a little higher on the arete. A little easier, perhaps even soft for the grade. (Starting holds shown in the guidebook).

Crimpy sit start with diagonal LH and small RH. Straight up. Hard.

Start on the little cairn to reach the seam and up.

Tiny arete from a sit.

Sit-start going left to join the start of “Too Many Slopers”. Now contrived and superseded by Alister's beta “Too Many Slopers Direct” but cool enough to include here.

From the jugs, throw big to the tiny slanting crimps. Crank and commit to the easier slab finish.

Right-hand side of wall. Up, with a terrible undercling and a small mono to start.

Start in middle of face with low edges, moving up and left to a tough finish. Face was uncovered after a large fire destroyed a tree in front of the face.

Start matched on obvious rail, head straight right then up.

That is how much it cost Dan Radford to do the second ascent. Up from edges to slopes and mantle.

Start as for “Monster of Rock”, only takes the low traverse option after the first few moves. Big sideways move off the huge flake to small edges, then to jug. From jug continue as for “Monster of Rock”.

Stand start on slopey pockets, straight up to tough and slopey mantle, reminiscent of Castle hill. Classic!

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

The high slab on the opposite side of “Fall From Grace”. Work through the low scoop and then up onto a balancy top.

A reference to the holds rather than a swipe at any particular political preference! Sit-start off the block (or crouched start) into above problem. Starts with low right-hand sidepull. Technical and crimpy.

Technical

L of “Curved Arête” SS off edge on low boulder.

The low start of Walk The Line adds about 4 tough moves. Starting holds - RH crimp, low LH undercling.

Start straddling the tree and follow the thin, overhanging flake left to a slopey finish. Watch the block that makes the landing awkward.

Just R of “Best in Show” Start off bad RH sidepull and high LH edge. Up to obvious cluster of small edges then move L and up.

Sit-start to “Sly Boy”. May be a crouched start if you can't reach the holds from the ground. Starts off the small edge and slopey sidepull located together. Up to bad holds and up slab.

Sit-start on obvious holds. Straight up to a tough finish.

Start as for "Bum Crack Sit Start", only go up and across diagonally left to finish up as for "Harry Houdini's Hand Holds", via a tough and thin traverse.

The gently bulging face on the Middle Brother, the shortest of the three boulders. A highball on perfect granite. It starts with steep and powerful moves off a chunky, in-cut flake, followed by a series of vertical cranks on small but positive edges, which guard the crux mantle onto a slopey narrow rail at two-thirds height. Blankness and weirdness above the rail gets you to a thin seam just below the more amenable top-out. It's one of Harvey's aesthetic highball jewels.

Face with undercut start 2m L of "The Incred-eye-ball mantle". Start below vague scoop with RH on tiny positive 'ear' and up on thin holds.

Very tall, proud arête and a magnum opus. Sometimes there are some wasps on the right face, so be careful.

Overhung wall 5 metres to the left of “Porcelain”.

Starting 2m left of "The Good Wife". Follow the line of edges and scoops up to a crux at the top with a cruisy mantle to finish. Mega classic!

Low crouched start off RH sidepull and little LH sloper. Up and across into Lovely Legs.

Link “Sly Fly” left into “My Girlfriends Got a New Girlfriend”, via a tough short traverse.

Start a little further left on the little crimps and link into Against The Grain. Soft.

Eliminate the block for your feet on Sydney Six.

Sit start the obvious steep feature. Up into a technical top. Also see El Destructo Stand Start.

Sit-start to “Mr Bastard”. A great problem that's often tried, seldom sent.

Mantles the LH side of the eyeball. Move up the arete till you get your LH on the good crimp, and then a hard move moving L onto the slab.

Crouched start on obvious crimp. Straight up to slopers and then press L into scoop. Desperate!