Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
10 | ★ Baghdad | 80m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st May 2011 | ||||
First multi pitch lead. Requires a bit of hunting around to find good gear placements on this cliff!
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8 | ★ Cherry's Flake | 66m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st May 2011 | ||||
Seconded, Dan lead. Great second pitch. Last pitch a bit mossy/lichen.
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16 | ★ Busting for Relief | 12m, 1 | The You Yangs | Sun 21st Aug 2011 | |||||
The grade of this route has been up graded to 17 in 2011 Glenn Tempest guide book "Rock Climbs Around Melbourne".
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Dec 2011 | ||||
Had done on 2nd before, steep start with OK nuts but requires a bit of hanging around to protect well. Easy after this when you know the big pocket is there up and well left of the bolt.
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16 | ★★ Taking it Easy | 13m, 1 | Mount Beckworth | Average | Sat 7th Apr 2012 | ||||
Lack of protection and runout.
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16 | ★★ Taking it Easy | 13m, 1 | Mount Beckworth | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Apr 2012 | ||||
Not expected for a 16 but great fun!
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14 13/14 | Surrogate Kitty | 7m, 1 | Black Hill | Average | Sun 15th Apr 2012 | ||||
Hardly worth the effort
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Dec 2012 | ||||
TR Solo: Nice route.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Dec 2012 | ||||
TR Solo
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16 | ★★ Afternoons - direct finish - with PhillipIvan | 14m, 1 | Mount Beckworth | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Feb 2013 | ||||
Link up with One of these Nights; up Afternoons to triangular cave then out, stepping right to traverse under the overhang, then up to bolts
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | Wed 13th Feb 2013 | |||||
Recommended.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Feb 2013 | ||||
Stitched it for Pete
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Feb 2013 | ||||
Cold and dark by this stage. Climbed by head torch.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Almar | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Sun 7th Apr 2013 | ||||
Fun route with some nice moves at the start. Next time I should lead trad it, Almar used nuts, one small cam and a big X. Need few cordelettes for the anchor, there are not so much for gear placement.
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20 20 R | ★★ Skating Away - with Paul | 22m, 1 | Ben Cairn | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Oct 2013 | ||||
Bolts have been replaced.
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19 | ★★ Skating Away | 22m, 1 | Ben Cairn | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | ||||
nice route. beautiful cracks/good pro and nice slab afterwards. not keen on leading this one with just that old bolt up the top and slippery slab. would have been a clean ascent if the slab weren't so slippery. it seems like the rock at ben cairn is more slippery than usual. perhaps due to humid weather?
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Sat 8th Feb 2014 | ||||
witch is still way better. rock was pretty slippery today.
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8 | ★ Cherry's Flake - with Riley Day | 66m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | ★ Good | Sun 16th Mar 2014 | ||||
Nice.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Apr 2014 | ||||
Big move after the bolt makes it harder than 16.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Kevin Russell | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | ||||
Really nice route. Big move at the top. Reach helps.
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22 | ★★ Slave Girl - with Henk Dam | 14m, 1 | Werribee Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Apr 2014 | ||||
Pumpy on top rope, this would be a bold lead!
Great crip and finger crack climbing!
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10 | ★ Baghdad - with Rob | 80m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | Average | Mon 23rd Jun 2014 | ||||
dodgy in the rain.
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22 | ★★ Slave Girl - with Jules | 14m, 1 | Werribee Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Jul 2014 | ||||
Just missed getting it clean after hanging in there for a fiddly nut tool cam retrieval. Very inspiring!
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Sep 2014 | ||||
The climb is awesome. Provided you like moist walls that is. The block is shaded all day with lichens and moss everywhere. No doubt it is an awesome climb in Summer time.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Kevin Russell | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Sep 2014 | ||||
Sustained at the grade down low. Overhung.
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20 | ★ Regicide | 10m, 1 | The You Yangs | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | ||||
Tough climb. Project for Royalty wall.
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11 | ★ Fig Leaf Direct - with Joshua Hope | 24m, 1 | The You Yangs | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Jun 2006 | ||||
Joshua's first trad lead
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Matt | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | Average | Sat 6th Sep 2014 | ||||
Gear is not very good.....but there is a bolt at the cruz, so everything is fine (?)
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | ||||
Theres a wobbly flake (jug too!) on this that will probably come off one day, which is a pity
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22 22 R | ★★ Slave Girl | 14m, 1 | Werribee Gorge | Average | Sat 22nd Sep 2012 | ||||
weird crux
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Sat 5th Apr 2014 | ||||
If it's rained, look out for water in the buckets up top.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with @michaelmink | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Nov 2014 | ||||
Awful climb today. Wet and cold, not slippery though. Misplaced a cam halfway to bolt, came loose when I wanted to rest a bit Made it to the bolt, but gave up there due to totally shot forearms. Will definitely try that one again.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Nov 2014 | ||||
Awesome climb.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Phil Sidaway | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Dec 2014 | ||||
2nd go today. Made a huge difference to have a nice and warm weather rather than a wet and windy one. Failed on the first attempt, since I still had the miserable last attempt a couple of weeks ago in mind. 2nd attempt done with one rest only. Remarkable how (relatively) easy this route becomes if you just remember the basics: fully extend your arms; let the legs do the work; place gear on hip or chest level (not above head). Think I can do it clean next time.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Jan 2015 | ||||
Bouldery start leads to a pumpy section with plenty of medium cam placements, then a rest ledge and bolt before the crux. It's wishful to think that being tall will make the "reachy" crux any easier.
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22 22 R | ★★ Slave Girl - with Noel | 14m, 1 | Werribee Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Jan 2015 | ||||
Spent way too long fiddling with gear and came off the upper crux.
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22 22 R | ★★ Slave Girl | 14m, 1 | Werribee Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Jan 2015 | ||||
Good gear and good moves. Putting the two together is the challenge.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Julie Hjorth | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Jan 2015 | ||||
Nice
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Jan 2015 | ||||
Nice climb!
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | Tue 24th Feb 2015 | |||||
Top tope with the ROC
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Mar 2015 | ||||
I think this climb is growing on me each time I do it! Great one to second on too.
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21 | Witch Right Variant Finish - with damien lees | 15m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Mon 9th Mar 2015 | ||||
3 new moves. good 3 moves, sure, but only 3 ...
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with damien lees | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Mar 2015 | ||||
Quality route at the grade
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18 | ★★ Pancake Flake - with Phil Sidaway, Michael Mink, Steve Rowland | 30m, 1 | Ben Cairn | ★ Good | Mon 6th Apr 2015 | ||||
Good climb - if only it were free of moss and dirt and water and… Took some rests to clean. Otherwise a nice climb.
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21 | ★ Glass Slippers - with Phil Sidaway, Michael Mink | 16m, 1 | Ben Cairn | Mon 6th Apr 2015 | |||||
Tried to do the variant (16) on top rope, but failed to even get to the bolt. Couldn't stand up on the slab, no matter what I tried. Maybe coming back when it's more dry. Or after a bush fire got rid of all the moss.
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18 | Scenester | 8m, 1 | Camels Hump | Average | Sat 11th Apr 2015 | ||||
A few thin moves around the first bolt, and then relax, put in a nut higher up, and cruise to the top.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Apr 2015 | ||||
Seconded Conan.
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17 16 | ★ Busting for Relief - with Mikie Bob | 12m, 1 | The You Yangs | Wed 1st Jul 2015 | |||||
So many nice little routes on this wall
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20 | Excuse Me While I Touch the Sky | 20m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Sep 2015 | ||||
Gets seriously difficult when you reach the bolt. Obscenely reachy and bouldery moves to gain the poor, mossy ledge above the almost featureless wall containing the bolt, then up, strenuously, on a combination of jugs and crimps. Large horizontal crack below overhang will take a BD #4 cam easily, or a #3 if you find the narrowest sections. Got through the reachy crux cleanly, after backing off and returning to the ledge several times, but then pumped out while approaching the overhang.
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21 | Witch Right Variant Finish - with Damien Lees | 15m, 1 | Camels Hump | Average | Mon 9th Mar 2015 | ||||
No more difficult than the way I actually did Witch. Lon move from a positive crimp
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Damien Lees | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Mon 9th Mar 2015 | ||||
Quite nice. Another route with a long move from a very positive crimp
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Ethan Connolly | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Mon 28th Sep 2015 | ||||
Pleasingly Ethan did this first shot too ...
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with DAniel Bell | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Oct 2015 | ||||
Awesome fun climbing with a mixture of styles. In the shade and wind my fingers went numb with cold before the bolt.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Phil Sidaway | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | ||||
Nice and relaxed climbing. Soo cold, though, that fingers went numb halfway up to the bolt. Came down, warmed fingers, and then climbed in one go.
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15 | News From Home | 20m, 1 | Camels Hump | Don't Bother | Wed 16th Dec 2015 | ||||
Very run out. No reliable pro before the rusty carrot bolt, and then not much before the end either. Ended up clipping one of the nearby bolts on Summer Breeze. Interesting bollard moves at the start though. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear or a long sling or cordelette reaching to the Skippy bolts.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Dec 2015 | ||||
Same start as Witch and go on the right after the first crack.
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16 | ★★ Jacobite (Jakobite) - with Philipp Robeck | 15m, 1 | Mt Alexander | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Jan 2016 | ||||
Very good route! Fell (unnecessarily) on the final crack when switching from jamming to laybacking. Very enjoyable traverse with good protection all the way.
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17 | ★ Spit The Dummy - with Michael Mink | 13m, 1 | Mt Alexander | Average | Sun 24th Jan 2016 | ||||
Fun way up until right above bolt. From there, it felt to both of us more like a 20+ than a 17. I fell at least once while trying to top out. We both ended up grabbing the crack on "Sandman" at the top
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20 20 R | ★★ Skating Away - with Steve Harper | 22m, 1 | Ben Cairn | ★ Good | Wed 14th Mar 1990 | ||||
Date approximate
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20 | ★★ Skating Away - with michael smith | 22m, 1 | Ben Cairn | ★ Good | Sat 13th Feb 2016 | ||||
Must be something wrong with my shoes...they kept slipping off the rock
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20 | ★★ Skating Away - with michael smith | 22m, 1 | Ben Cairn | ★ Good | Sun 14th Feb 2016 | ||||
Must be something wrong with my shoes...they kept slipping off the rock
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15 | Russell 2 | 19m, 1 | Camels Hump | Average | Wed 9th Mar 2016 | ||||
Can start as for Space Jugging then tend left to first and only bolt. I believe some ascents of SJ may infact be Russell 2. For SJ, tend right after juggy start. Bolt not obvious.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Richard Smith | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Tue 15th Mar 2016 | ||||
Warm up. This one - unlike everything else here - is actually getting easier every time.
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24 | ★★ Scottish Reign - with Betty | 15m, 1 | Mt Alexander | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Apr 2016 | ||||
One sit near the bottom.
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14 |
★ Cherry's Flake
- with
Tim Exley
1
14
3
8
| 66m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | Sun 15th May 2016 | |||||
Might have done the direct start, an edgy experience. 10m up before I could get a piece of gear in; this route could really do with a bolt or three as the first section up to a small ledge (suggested in the guide as an optional belay) is certainly harder than a grade 8. The rest of the climb is great, with a fun corner crack section and mainly jug hauling on pitch 2.
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10 | ★ Baghdad - with Cameron Parsons | 80m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | ★ Good | Sun 26th Jun 2016 | ||||
Climbed straight past the bolt on first belay, set belay in the cave, much warmer!!!!
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24 | ★★ Scottish Reign - with Karl Bromelow, Kai Seth Robertson, Mandy Robertson | 15m, 1 | Mt Alexander | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Nov 2016 | ||||
Top rope following my 9 year old son who lapped it 3 times. Oh, to be young again.
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16 | ★★ Jacobite (Jakobite) | 15m, 1 | Mt Alexander | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Nov 2016 | ||||
I think this and 'Flake of Fear' at Summerday Valley should switch names. Don't try to place any protection before the bolt - best case you will introduce massive rope drag, and worst case you'll fall, tear the flake off, and not only hit the ground, but also have the now-detached flake land on top of you!
Terrifying climbing up the paper-thin flake, followed by a nice, delicate slab traverse, and then a final loose finger crack to finish, which offers nice, secure finger-locks. |
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Ana Maluenda | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Nov 2016 | ||||
...when thrown off the crux of the Witch...! Enjoyable nonetheless!
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16 | ★ Xanthene Direct - with Michael Mink | 45m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Nov 2016 | ||||
Nice slab climbing, very enjoyable route. Linked it with the 4th pitch of 'Xanthene'. Since that was a delicate 17, this one felt like cruising.
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22 | ★★ Jack Russell (Jack Russel) | 20m, 1 | Mt Alexander | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Nov 2016 | ||||
Bring your big cams and keep calm.
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24 25 | ★★ Scottish Reign | 15m, 1 | Mt Alexander | Wed 23rd Nov 2016 | |||||
This climb really spoke to me, it said "Go home old man, you don't deserve to be here."
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15 | News From Home | 20m, 1 | Camels Hump | Average | Fri 30th Dec 2016 | ||||
Dirty. Run out. Bad pro. Good for a laugh, get your free solo on.
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8 | ★ Cherry's Flake - with Tayla | 66m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | ★ Good | Sun 8th Jan 2017 | ||||
Fun jug fest, nice sheltered belay in cave
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Jan 2017 | ||||
Warm up. Lovely and cruisy. Had never noticed before just how dodgy the bolt is. Looks like an 8mm (or thinner?) thread with a bolt plate fixed to it!
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20 | ★★ Skating Away | 22m, 1 | Ben Cairn | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Jan 2017 | ||||
Difficult moves at the top of the crack getting onto the slab, then a good rest once you're above that, very delicate slabbing past the bolt, getting much easier towards the finish.
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18 | ★ Time Child | 20m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Jan 2017 | ||||
Surprisingly good, after I gave it a decent brushing. Somewhat similar crux to Wishful Thinking, but more prolonged, harder, and further from the bolt. (But still very well protected.)
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Phil Aarons | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Wed 15th Feb 2017 | ||||
Good warm up, Good gear, anchor is a fair way back
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Michael Smith | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Feb 2017 | ||||
Warmup. Nice as always.
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17 19 | ★ After the Deluge - with Benham, Mel McGregor | 22m, 1 | The You Yangs | Sat 8th Apr 2017 | |||||
Not 19
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24 25 | ★★ Scottish Reign - with Vic Uni | 15m, 1 | Mt Alexander | Thu 27th Apr 2017 | |||||
I was there with Uni and didn't have my shoes with me.. just gave it a try on toprope. Looks very good anyway! next time
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8 | ★ Cherry's Flake | 66m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | Wed 31st May 2017 | |||||
with mum
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3 5 | ★ Laver's Route | 60m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | Mon 1st May 2017 | |||||
with mum
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with Paul | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th May 2017 | ||||
Juggy and crimpy in parts. One crux lowish near a rusty piton which I clipped but it's ancient (!!) and another is protected by a bolt. Good climb
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24 | ★★ Toulouse Lautrec (Early Days) - with Bernie | 20m, 1 | Werribee Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 21st May 2017 | ||||
First shot (on preplaced gear)
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8 |
★ Cherry's Flake
- with
Benham
1
lead by
Steve
2
lead by
Steve
3
lead by
Mark
| 66m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | ★ Good | Sat 17th Jun 2017 | ||||
Nice slabby moves into the flake.
The flake pitches are quite pleasant
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3 5 | ★ Laver's Route - with Benham | 60m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | ★ Good | Sat 17th Jun 2017 | ||||
Agree with the guide book, the first pitch is really nice, the second pitch is average
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8 | ★ Cherry's Flake - with Benham, Steve Gretton | 66m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | Sat 17th Jun 2017 | |||||
Nice fun climb once you reach the flake.
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8 |
★ Cherry's Flake
- with
Andrew
1
2
3
| 66m, 1 | The Cathedral Range | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jul 2017 | ||||
Great climb though pro could use some work. 2 bolts need replacing! (or controversially add a third bolt)
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20 | ★ Regicide | 10m, 1 | The You Yangs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jul 2017 | ||||
Top-roped due to the crazy run out (one bolt?!). Placing gear in the seam on the right didn't appear to be a viable option as the climb itself is further out on the arete
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18 | ★ After the Deluge - with Sasha | 22m, 1 | The You Yangs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Sep 2017 | ||||
Nice and thin.
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17 | ★ Spit The Dummy | 13m, 1 | Mt Alexander | Sun 8th Oct 2017 | |||||
No skin left
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16 21 | ★ Glass Slippers - with isaac eastland | 16m, 1 | Ben Cairn | ★ Good | Fri 10th Nov 2017 | ||||
Did the variant finish. That slab is seriously sandbagger.
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20 | ★★ Skating Away - with Isaac Eastland | 22m, 1 | Ben Cairn | ★ Good | Fri 10th Nov 2017 | ||||
Got conned into leading, above my grade, super dodgy lead/aid climb. Really looking forward to getting strongk and leading this clean.
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18 | ★★ Poxbow Variant - with Michael Mink, Michael Smith | 25m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Nov 2017 | ||||
Pretty committing move at the top. A fall would've resulted in a bit of a huge swing to the left. But the holds are bomber, so all good. Fun!
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with MikiOtter, , steve f | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Nov 2017 | ||||
Top roped this ages ago. A very enjoyable step back into leading - lots of pro and fun moves.
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18 | Scenester - with Dinesh | 8m, 1 | Camels Hump | Average | Sat 9th Dec 2017 | ||||
Top is so easy I thought it's run-out sport -.-
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Sun 25th Feb 2018 | ||||
Set a top rope to keep the hoards of kids warm.
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16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking - with NancyC | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Apr 2018 | ||||
Very good (First trad (mix) 16)
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25 | ★★ Scottish Reign - with Tanya, Dylan Gilmore | 15m, 1 | Mt Alexander | ★★★ Classic | Mon 14th May 2018 | ||||
One rest. Really hard to remember the sequence from the start to the bolt.
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