Ascents in North East by Fraser Chadwick having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Intimidating climb.

Not a bad looking crack at all. Started on the left hand finger crack rather than the right hand seam. Protects well. Options to hand and foot jam or use crimpers outside the crack. Pretty easy finish as gear gets harder to place. Probably a grade 15 or 16.

Had a go at leading it, got the first 2 bolts but couldn't get around the corner to finish. Seconded after Joel and managed to piece it. Placed a nut on the first attempt once we got into the alcove to protect the first bolt but didn't use it on repeat attempts.

Second pitch is hard for the grade.

Good lead

Surprisingly good

First pitch only

Tricky start and tricky top out.

Very hard first pitch. A lot harder than it looks. Set up at the original belay but would recommend to continue up the flake crack and set up there if you have enough gear. The flake is pretty easy climbing in comparison and the belay point above it is a little bigger. Next crack is little wider and I managed to keep my right foot out and smear up the outside, finishes with a fun little traverse left to a good belay point. Similar sized crack again up to a bulge, set up belay point there. Up the crack on the right which thins out at the top. Decided to set up the belay at the big ledge under the first little chimney. Took the easier option around to the right of the chimney then walked my feet up the crack while pressing up against the block on the left. Wide crack to finish was a little harder to jam feet. Big belay ledge. Guide books description from here was a little vague but thanks to a few phone calls to guys at home we manage to work out where to go. Walked right to the easiest looking crack with a little tree in it, up that then scrambled as high and to the left as I could go. Then the crack on the very left is full of features so had an easy climb to the top of that, belayed from there then we scrambled up the little slabby bit on the left of a wide crack to the base of the big head wall. Then scrambled up the boulders on the left to get onto the track out. Huge effort by Joel who lead the whole thing! Very physical climbing and requires a pretty big effort.

First pitch only