Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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9 |
Lazy Days
![]() | 10m | Buchan | Don't Bother | Tue 22nd Apr 2003 | ||||
16 |
Morning Sickness
![]() | 10m | Buchan | Average | Tue 22nd Apr 2003 | ||||
A challenging route for beginners, the top few moves are pretty groovy. My nephew Chris showed amazing courage on this route, he was scared and shaking but kept moving, inspiring effort from the little fella
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11 |
Choss Corner
![]() | 15m | Buchan | Average | Tue 22nd Apr 2003 | ||||
Good beginner climb, great bolts on top very new and solid. My nephews first climb!
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18 Hard |
★★★ The Initiation
![]() | 90m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 20th Nov 2023 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
![]() | 230m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Jan 2022 | ||||
20 |
★★★ Sultan
![]() | 65m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Jan 2022 | ||||
14 |
★★ The Pintle
![]() | 70m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 1st Jan 2022 | |||||
16 |
★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant
![]() | 70m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | Sat 1st Jan 2022 | |||||
17 |
★★ Profanities
![]() | 45m, 11 | Mount Buffalo | Sat 1st Jan 2022 | |||||
16 |
★★ Corner And Crack
![]() | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 1st Jan 2022 | |||||
15 |
The Crack Corner
![]() | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 1st Jan 2022 | |||||
V3 |
★ Scrambled cignall
![]() | 3m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Good | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | ||||
V2 |
★★ Glad I don’t have reception
![]() | 4m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||||
V1 |
Waiting for reception
![]() | 4m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||||
18 |
★★★ The Initiation
![]() | 90m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
![]() | 42m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | ||||
21 |
★★ Huns Don't Cruise
![]() | 10m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | ||||
20 |
★ Strange Angels
![]() | 15m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||||
V3 |
★ Non receptive
![]() | 3m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||||
17 |
★ Prospero's Cell
![]() | 15m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||||
17 |
★ Ariel
![]() | 15m, 3 | Mount Buffalo | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||||
13 |
Homer's Butt Crack
![]() | 10m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||||
16 |
★ Son of Epic
![]() | 25m, 3 | Mount Buffalo | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Sultan
![]() | 65m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 19th Apr 2017 | ||||
First climb at Mt Buffalo and it was awesome! Super cool first pitch with little rooflets, amazing traverse on 2nd pitch, interesting 3rd with a scary solo slab section at the end! We brought 3 x #4 and I'm glad I did
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17 |
★★★ Maharajah
![]() | 42m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 19th Apr 2017 | ||||
Pretty classic climbing.
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18 |
★★★ The Initiation
![]() | 90m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 19th Apr 2017 | ||||
One of the best climbs I've ever done! Super varied! We did it as the sun was setting and it was amazing!
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20 |
★★★ Peroxide Blonde
![]() | 18m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 20th Apr 2017 | ||||
Epic position with a big run out between 3rd and 4th bolt
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16 |
★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant
![]() | 70m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Apr 2017 | ||||
Cool varied climbing. Make sure you go through the narrow chimney before the last pitch
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20 |
★★ This Is Not Our Land
![]() | 15m, 3 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 20th Apr 2017 | ||||
Awesome features! Used a sling between 1st and 2nd bolt
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21 21 to 23 |
★★ Injustice
![]() | 15m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 20th Apr 2017 | ||||
Really amazing climbing on power jugs before delicate crux next to a bolt!
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18 |
★★ Spaceman Spiff
![]() | 15m, 6 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Apr 2017 | ||||
Really good climbing! Much better than This is not our land in terms of bolting!
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18 |
★ Two Old Plonkers
![]() | 12m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 22nd Apr 2017 | |||||
Really good slabbing in the wet! Crux at 2nd last bolt
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19 |
★ Where Angels Fear to Tread Direct Start
![]() | 26m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Apr 2017 | ||||
Stupidity resulted in not looking 1m left so we ended up doing the direct, down
climb, then went up the direct direct through tree (literally) and did the same death traverse as per direct with scary run out to link back to original climb after a late discovery by Sam mid death traverse
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17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
![]() | 230m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Apr 2017 | ||||
After completing the direct & direct through tree, we finally got into the main crack system! We did it in 7 pitches! P1. 30m belayed above tree P2. 30m once above tree, traverse on slab to gain right crack system, P3. 30m follow crack through wide section and belayed below bulge P4. 40m followed crack towards chimney and go through chimney P5. 40m up corner, into offwidth and then fridge hugging to ledge P6. Up the right trending crack on the right of the ledge to gain next ledge P7. Can go up dyke jug ladder but we decided to go through the hand crack up top P8. Go around the left of the wall in front of you and scramble over some boulders and down into Burstons Crevasse. So glad we brought the #5 and multiple #4 cams!
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18 |
★★ Beowulf
![]() | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th Apr 2017 | ||||
Last climb of our Mt Buffalo trip and well worth it! Would deserve 3 stars is its longer but outstanding nevertheless. Cool jams before the crux through finger locks. Focus on your feet through the top crux makes the climb much easier especially in the wet when I did it!
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15 |
★ Derailed
![]() | 18m, 5 | Beechworth Area | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Apr 2023 | ||||
15 |
★★ Broken China
![]() | 10m, 4 | Beechworth Area | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||
17 |
★ Psycho Midget Madness
![]() | 15m, 6 | Beechworth Area | Sat 29th Apr 2023 | |||||
17 |
★ Mount Pilot Unearthed
![]() | 20m, 3 | Beechworth Area | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Jul 2019 | ||||
15 |
★ Sticky Date Sunrise
![]() | 20m, 6 | Beechworth Area | ★ Good | Mon 1st Jul 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★ Spaceman Spiff
![]() | 15m, 6 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Nov 2019 | ||||
15 |
★★ Big Fun
![]() | 25m, 7 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Nov 2019 | ||||
16 |
★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant
![]() | 70m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Nov 2019 | ||||
Second pitch
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17 |
★ Bloodnok
![]() | 27m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Good | Sat 19th Oct 2019 | ||||
17 18 |
★★ The Arete
![]() | 10m, 4 | Albury Quarry | ★ Good | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | ||||
22 21 |
★★ Georgia’s got a date (The arete -wasp variant)
![]() | 10m, 4 | Albury Quarry | ★ Good | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
![]() | 42m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 22nd Dec 2012 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Peroxide Blonde
![]() | 18m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | Sat 22nd Dec 2012 | |||||
14 |
★★ The Pintle
![]() | 70m | Mount Buffalo | Sat 22nd Dec 2012 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
![]() | 230m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 20th Nov 2019 | ||||
19 |
★ Where Angels Fear to Tread Direct Start
![]() | 26m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Good | Wed 20th Nov 2019 | ||||
16 |
★★ A Fundamental Difference Of Opinion
![]() | 120m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Nov 2019 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
![]() | 42m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Nov 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Initiation
![]() | 90m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Nov 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Initiation
![]() | 90m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 20th Nov 2019 | ||||
14 |
★ Mother of Pearl
![]() | 180m | Mount Buffalo | Average | Tue 19th Nov 2019 | ||||
20 |
★★ Love and Respect
![]() | 12m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Good | Wed 20th Nov 2019 | ||||
Sandbag!
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18 |
★★ Spaceman Spiff
![]() | 15m, 6 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 21st Nov 2019 | ||||
12 |
★★ Beware The Strathbogie
![]() | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 21st Nov 2019 | ||||
14 |
★ Eat Your Vegies
![]() | 15m | Mount Buffalo | Average | Thu 21st Nov 2019 | ||||
13 |
Antagony
![]() | 15m | Mount Buffalo | Average | Thu 21st Nov 2019 | ||||
18 |
★ Two Old Plonkers
![]() | 12m | Mount Buffalo | Don't Bother | Thu 21st Nov 2019 | ||||
20 |
★★★ Peroxide Blonde
![]() | 18m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | Mon 12th Nov 2018 | |||||
Humbling. Great striking line!
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15 |
★★ Big Fun
![]() | 25m, 7 | Mount Buffalo | Mon 12th Nov 2018 | |||||
Interesting moves.
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16 |
★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant
![]() | 70m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | Mon 12th Nov 2018 | |||||
14 |
★★ The Pintle
![]() | 70m | Mount Buffalo | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
![]()
2
33
lead by
Michael Hallang
| 42m | Mount Buffalo | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | |||||
Flake start. Decked off a whipper and wasn't in the right frame of mind to lead again for the rest of the day. Some very interesting climbing on the upper pitches, must come back and try this again.
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20 |
★★★ Sultan
![]() | 65m | Mount Buffalo | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | |||||
What an adventure this was.
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17 |
★★★ Maharajah Flake Start
![]() | 10m | Mount Buffalo | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | |||||
14 |
★★ The Pintle
![]()
1
2
3
| 70m | Mount Buffalo | Wed 27th Dec 2023 | |||||
13 |
★★ Noblesse Oblige
![]() | 420m, 6 | Mount Buffalo | Average | Wed 27th Dec 2023 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
![]()
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
17
50m
4
17
45m
5
10
45m
| 230m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Dec 2023 | ||||
M4 10 M4 |
★★★ Ozymandias Direct
![]() | 300m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 18th Dec 2015 | ||||
23 |
★★★ The Dreaming
![]() | 90m | Mount Buffalo | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | |||||
16 |
★★ The Pinch
![]() | 48m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
![]() | 230m | Mount Buffalo | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
![]() | 42m | Mount Buffalo | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah Flake Start
![]() | 10m | Mount Buffalo | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
![]()
1
17
24m
2
17
18
| 42m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Feb 2019 | ||||
First climb of the trip and it was great. Went up the flake at the start as width is not our area of expertise. So fun seeing Dad get rattled the whole way up! Slab at the top was more exciting than I was fully expecting
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18 |
★★★ The Initiation
![]() | 90m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 16th Feb 2019 | ||||
Flippin' amazing! The dream feature; perfect jug flake for eternity. Start was slightly tricky but then its just a beautiful wander with stonker gear for as long as you like. I led the first pitch to where the flake turns vertical, then Harry led up this, through the hilarious traverse and down climb, built a belay and then he also led the final hand crack. A totally stunning route and more worthwhile than any of the other easily accessed classics like Sultan and Maharajah.
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20 |
★★★ Sultan
![]()
1
20
20
2
14
15
3
18
30
| 65m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Feb 2019 | ||||
Another classic to get my Dad scared on. We did this the morning before he left and it was a fitting end to his brief trip with plenty of wide crack grunting and a whole bunch of exposure. First pitch is very sustained but with no moves that are particularly. My feet got quite sore from the endless smearing on nothingness. Pitch two is one of the most spectacular 14s ever. Super airy but easy and delightful. The final pitch is also classic, especially after the awkward start, with juggy flake climbing and the exciting finishing slab to top out. Brilliant!
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20 |
★★★ Peroxide Blonde
![]() | 18m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Feb 2019 | ||||
Really good but very insecure; I was quite stressed about coming off. The tourists up the top were quite bemused and friendly.
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17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
![]() | 230m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 18th Feb 2019 | ||||
Probably the best long, easy, crack multipitch in Australia! Such wildly good and varied jamming on every pitch, from ring locks all the way to offwidthing and tight chimneys at the top. We did most of it in approach shoes but there is one section on pitch three and pretty much all of pitch four where climbing shoes makes life much easier. Our rack was double cams from 0.3 to 3 with a single 4 and two extra 2s. This was more than enough gear and in reality you could probably just have singles from 0.3 to 0.5. We also had nuts but only placed a few to justify our having brought them.
In regards to taping, it is hugely unnecessary on this climb. The route is so slabby that you rarely have to weight your jams in any meaningful way, so leave the tape or gloves at home and use it as an opportunity to improve on your technique. All up a completely excellent experience with the light rain that flavoured the day keeping the scorching sun away. |
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20 |
★★★ Home James
![]() | 30m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Tue 19th Feb 2019 | ||||
Seriously good rock climb but probably quite soft at the grade, especially by Buffalo standards. It would probably be excellent as a first route to do here as your head would switch on but you wouldn't be scared. Four bolts and two~ trad pieces in about 20m of climbing keep it nice and safe. Totally fun.
After climbing this we took the rest of the day off and went for Pizza in town. |
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18 |
★★★ Caligula
![]() | 60m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 20th Feb 2019 | ||||
Brilliant route with plenty of wide crack weirdness to keep you on your toes. Generally super cruisy with some beautiful jamming up to the little roof at the top where things get briefly interesting. After this you can just mosey on up to the tree belay.
Definitely best climbed as a single pitch and probably best accessed by rapping in off the belay tree. In terms of the rack you could probably take singles 0.3 to 0.75 and then doubles of 1 through to 4. Really great route and it would make a super duper finish to Angels if you still had some energy left! |
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19 20 |
★★ This Is Not Our Land
![]() | 15m, 3 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Feb 2019 | ||||
Good fun and with a few moves that were trickier than they looked from the ground. Gets 19 in the print guide.
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18 |
★★ Spaceman Spiff
![]() | 15m, 6 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Feb 2019 | ||||
Bit of a weird one where it's hard to know where the actual line goes. I just stemmed straight up the centre. Pretty fun.
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21 21 to 23 |
★★ Injustice
![]() | 15m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Feb 2019 | ||||
Another strange route. I definitely don't meet the height requirements for #themove but, at the same time, the way I did it probably wasn't much harder than 21, just super duper insecure. Good but pretty weirdly bolted.
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25 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
![]()
3
25
30m
| 55m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 17th Mar 2022 | ||||
Pretty rad to be down playing on this wall. Not sure how many opportunities i’ll have to try the route whilst working on this film about Duncan with Tristan and Tom for TNF but was cool to have a play as Duncan rested. Seconded pitch one first go which was pretty chill and then did three back to back laps on the 25 pitch. I went up it first to figure it out and fell off a few times, came down to the stance just above the balancy start and climbed from there to the top but figured I should do it properly so lowered back down to the belay and did it pulling the rope through the grigri the whole time which was a bit brutal. Hopefully it feels easier on lead.
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14 |
★ The Creaming
![]() | 9m, 3 | Felltimber Creek Crag | ★ Good | Wed 19th Apr 2017 | ||||
14 |
★ The Creaming
![]() | 9m, 3 | Felltimber Creek Crag | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Apr 2016 | ||||
17 |
★★ Bullfighter
![]() | 9m, 3 | Felltimber Creek Crag | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Apr 2016 | ||||
17 |
★★ Bullfighter
![]() | 9m, 3 | Felltimber Creek Crag | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Apr 2017 | ||||
17 |
★★ Bullfighter
![]() | 9m, 3 | Felltimber Creek Crag | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Feb 2017 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
![]() | 42m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Apr 2017 | ||||
17 |
★ Little Fatty
![]() | 8m, 2 | Beechworth Area | ★ Good | Sun 22nd May 2016 | ||||
17 18 |
★★ The Arete
![]() | 10m, 4 | Albury Quarry | Sat 22nd Apr 2017 | |||||
17 |
★★ Wissywoo
![]() | 20m | Beechworth Area | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Apr 2017 | ||||
18 |
★★ Shell Shock
![]() | 30m, 4 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Dec 2016 | ||||
15 |
★ Tree House
![]() | 15m, 3 | Albury Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th May 2017 |