Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
13 | ★★★ Muldoon
1
13
20m
2
12
22m
Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.
34m rap from double ring bolts above the climb - 70m rope or doubles required. Can be done in two raps using a 60 and the mid-station, or walk right and down the gully. FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965 | 42m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ D Minor
1
10
25m
2
14
10m
The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.
FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964 | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece
The excellent thin cracks up the middle of the front of this pillar. Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams. FA: Chris Baxter & Matt Taylor, 1976 | 33m | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon
A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed.
FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964 | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ Piccolo
1
11
18m
2
11
15m
FA: Garry Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965 | 33m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge
1
3
43m
2
5
27m
3
4
20m
4
5
30m
An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.
FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963 | 120m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★★★ Bard
1
12
43m
2
12
12m
3
12
20m
4
12
15m
5
12
30m
Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.
FA: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking, 1965 | 120m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell
Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.
FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1968 | 130m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★ D Major
1
10
25m
2
10
25m
Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe. Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the D Major pipe.
FA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1964 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter
1
10
30m
2
14
30m
3
13
18m
An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon. Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.
FA: 1965 | 78m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack
1
9
40m
2
9
40m
Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).
FA: Chris Davis & Ian Guild., 1964 | 80m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack
1
12
25m
2
14
20m
3
16
18m
4
16
32m
Fantastic climb. Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top. Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam.
FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1966 | 95m, 4, 3 | Arapiles | ||
19 | ★★★ Tannin
Fantastic climbing on gorgeous peachy rock, many climbers' favourite 19 at Araps. Chains at top (32m). Videos FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★★★ Arachnus
1
8
40m
2
8
21m
3
9
14m
4
8
30m
A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.
FA: Ian Speedie & Rob McQuilkin, 1964 | 110m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities
A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece
A really good route, one of the most pleasant 18s at Arapiles. Start 3m R of Jason. Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and up thin line. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter McKeand, 1969 FFA: Roland Pauligk, 1974 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
8 | ★★ Diapason
1
7
20m
2
6
25m
3
8
10m
The first climb done in the Organ Pipes. A very pleasant outing. Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.
FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Rob Taylor, 1963 | 55m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★★★ Mari
Quite classic and good fun. Climb the obvious corner on the left side of the wall. An awkward start then jamming to a little roof. A bit tricky but not too cruxy. Take care with gear in the glassy crack - cams have a habit of either skating out or walking in. FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★★ Skink
1
12
25m
2
18
40m
3
17
42m
A technical, exhilarating route. A great contrast to its companion climb. The majority of the route remains in the shade until late morning. Start as for Watchtower Crack.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1966 | 110m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ Pedro
Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start). Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready. FA: Mike Stone, Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 1965 | 36m | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★★ Swinging
As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off. Start: As for 'Trapeze'. FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976 | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★★ Necrophilliac
Left curving crack with a few nice jams. Lower-offs (25m). FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
16 R | ★★★ Brolga
1
15
30m
2
16 R
30m
3
14
30m
Fantastic slab climbing up immaculate rock. With modern gear it is not nearly the scare fest it used to be. Start at the gorgeous water streak up the middle of the face that commences off the slight ledge just above the path.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Andrew Bowman, 1975 | 90m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air
Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of Muldoon. Start: Start 2m R of Tantalus. Descend from DRRB at the top of Muldoon FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
20 | ★★ Pilot Error
More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge. Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book. FA: Ian Anger, 1980 | 12m, 1 | Arapiles | ||
6 | ★★ Exodus
Delightful. Start just right of a detached little pinnacle and just left of Edgell Gerber at a shallow corner. FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Uebergang, 1967 | 36m | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★★★ Siren
1
4
25m
2
8
35m
3
8
35m
4
6
25m
5
9
25m
A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner. Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.
From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11. FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963 | 150m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
21 | ★★★ Kachoong
Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes. FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | ||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd
Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at Arapiles. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch. Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle. Rap anchor at the top. FA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1968 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★★ Toccata
1
15
27m
2
13
23m
A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.
FA: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1965 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★★ Dirty Bomb
Best easy route at this crag. Fun climbing and surprisingly cool holds. Starts about 5m R of UF, steep start on great holds then up the face looking for the cool pockets. FA: Matt Brooks & Jessica Shaham, 28 Mar 2016 | 15m, 7 | Flat Rock | ||
11 | ★★ Dracula
1
11
25m
2
8
15m
Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block. Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.
FA: Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1965 | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
20 | ★★★ Little Thor
The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped. Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws. FA: Ian Guild & Peter Smith, 1965 FFA: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974 | 12m | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ Trapeze
Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above. Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face. FA: Russell Judge & Don Bennett, 1964 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★ The Rack
People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though. The crack 3m R of 'Christian Crack'. FA: John Ewbank, 1968 | 13m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac
Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor. FA: John Moore, 1967 | 28m | Arapiles | ||
6 | ★ Revolver Crack
The deep crack. Start 20m right of Melville's Cave. FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★★ Dirge
1
17
35m
2
50m
Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter., 1974 | 85m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
13 | ★★ Hell For Leather
As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove. Start: Start 10m R of T. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ Didgeridoo
Start as for Horn Piece on the Didgeridoo Pipe. Veers left from Horn Piece near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade. FA: Ian Speedie, Garry Kerkin & Mike Stone., 1965 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★★ Syrinx
1
10
20m
2
10
20m
3
10
35m
4
8
38m
5
9
12m
6
8
25m
7
7
20m
The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined. While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join. Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.
FA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1964 | 170m, 7 | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★★ Libretto
Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section. Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of D Major.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger., 1968 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★★ Moby Dick
The obvious flake crack on the wall facing Golden Fleece Wall. FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Dewhirst, 1966 | 15m | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★ Camelot
Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top. FA: Phillip Stranger | 13m | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★ Maximus
The thin wall 2m right of Camelot. FA: Peter Watson & Peter Megens | 13m | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★ Nuclear Novice
The best sport climb at its grade in the Grampians!? Start of the R end of the ledge about 10 R of CIC. Follow the bolts and jugs up the face to DUB. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope. Set: Matt Brooks FFA: Buck Rogers & Matt Brooks, 14 May 2016 | 15m, 5 | Flat Rock | ||
14 | ★ Minimus
The bulging crack just right of the plaque. FA: Bob Bull & John Fahey | 12m | Arapiles | ||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight
Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor. Start: As for It'll Never Fly. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 18m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid
1
17
45m
2
17
30m
Fantastic climb. The original route climbed the first pitch of Courage until above the grotty overhang and then traversed left. The route as described is vastly better. Start below the inset corner in recessed bay behind large Callitris pine.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Mark Shelton, 1976 FA: Glenn Tempest & Keith Egerton, 1976 | 75m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer
Up weakness to the right of Side Show following left-facing flake system to the roof. Head left along under this until an exit can be made straight up to rap station. For a more exciting finish (still grade 18), go straight through the weakness in the roof Start: Two metres right of Side Show, a vague "E" can be found scratched on the rock | 20m | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★★ Blockbuster
The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position. FA: 1964 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★★★ Resignation
1
10
35m
2
15
15m
3
15
23m
4
11
23m
A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top. Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).
FA: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage & Ann Pauligk, 1966 | 96m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★★ Eurydice
1
18
33m
2
17
32m
A fine old classic that has just about everything in its two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position. On the E face of the Bard Buttress there's a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.
Ann Pauligk's mid 1970s ascent, first go, was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. FA: Bob Bull, Peter Jackson & Ted Batty, 1965 NA: Ann Pauligk, 1975 | 65m, 2, 2 | Arapiles | ||
8 | ★★ Spiral Staircase
Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.
FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963 | 100m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★ King Rat
Another awesomely steep line. Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp. FA: Roland Pauligk & Derek Lord (1 aid on piton), 1967 FFA: Dave Neilson, 1971 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link
The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great. Start in the middle of the West face of Bluff Major, where the ground is at it's highest point. Finish direct to chains on R side of summit boulder, or slightly easier to L side of boulder. Please don't toprope direct off the chains as they see a lot of traffic. Ann Pauligk's bold early-mid 1970s ascent may have been the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. FA: Reg Williams, Peter Jackson & Chris Dewhirst (1 aid piton), 1965 NA: Ann Pauligk, 1975 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington
Has steadily increased it's reputation over the years, and is now considered by some to be one of the best 19s at Arapiles. Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the Piccolo side. Approach by going L around the back of D Minor Pinnacle. The logs and chain in the gully are for erosion control; they are not designed or to be used as belay anchors. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Matt Taylor, 1976 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
16 R | ★★ Marmot's Mall
The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place. Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18. FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst & Kevin Sheehy, 1966 | 12m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★★ Panzer
Start directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder.
FA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1965 | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Asteroid
Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first. Start: Start as for IaLD. FA: Geoff Donovan, 1987 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★ Aardvark
Start at the top end of the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, opposite Lemmington. The thin crack over low overlap then R-facing flake to chains. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ed Neve, 1975 | 18m | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★ Mesa
Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing. Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge. FA: Graham Squire & Clive Parker, 1966 | 33m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★★ Watchtower Chimney
1
12
45m
2
8
17m
3
12
31m
4
8
18m
A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line! Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.
FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie & Garry Kerkin, 1965 | 110m, 4, 1 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★ Inxcessive
A bouldery start, eases to good holds. FA: Neil Monteith, 2008 | 13m, 5 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
14 | ★★ Tremulo
Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten. Start at short chimney 5 metres right of Humouresque. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor. FA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
6 | ★★ Guiding Light
A quirky ramble that is very enjoyable. There was a serious accident on this climb a couple of years back, showing that a lapse of concentration can get you hurt anywhere. Start at the foot of the chimney-gully.
FA: Simon Mentz & James Falla, 1998 | 60m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★★ Siamese Crack
The middle of the three prominent cracks on the wall is a daunting layback if your jamming technique is lacking. FA: Peter Jackson & Ted Batty, 1965 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★ Hot Play
Steep climbing on big jugs. Nice, easy warm up. FA: Neil Monteith, 2008 | 9m, 4 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
7 | ★ Charity
Up the crack. Start: Start under the L crack on the main face. FA: Bruce & Keith Lockwood, 1968 | 14m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Mantis
Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left. Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang. FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1965 | 33m | Arapiles | ||
13 | ★★ Stalagmite
Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall. The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily. FA: Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr & Rob Taylor, 1966 | 36m | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ The Bishop
Start as for Revelations, Serpent, etc.
FA: Garry Sudholz & Rod Sutherland, 1967 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
19 | ★★ Pains Ford
The first and best route at the crag, borderline 3 stars? Unique for the 'Grampians' - climbs and looks more like limestone. Great sustained climbing on water polished jugs. Surprisingly overhung. Located in the middle of the south face, directly in front of small pine tree. When it gets tough around the 5th bolt dog-leg left to find the better holds. Seeps for several days after heavy rain. FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2008 | 18m, 8 | Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||
19 | ★★ In Halen
Grey slightly overhung gritty wall climbing. This climb is a very good warm-up for harder routes in the area at it is pumpy with no sharp holds. Originally a trad route. FA: Neil Monteith Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 13m, 4 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
13 | ★ Ivan
The R-curving crack just R of Abdul. Awkward - but you've got to get up to Blockbuster Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 14m | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur
Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first. Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge. FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★★ Agent Orange
Conjures up an image of Chris Baxter clutching a bush and screaming as he hurtles down "Vanoise". The little flake just right of the initial corner has also been climbed at 19. Start: At small, right-facing corner 3 metres right of "Vanoise". Rap chains. FA: Chris Baxter & Paul Daniels, 1981 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★ Maiden China
Imposing ringbolted wide crack on left end of 'Tribute Wall'. Luckily there is an abundance of jugs on either side of the crack to make it a nice stemming problem. Start on left side of pit. Step right to RB on right side of crack, then mantle onto ledge. 'Problematic' move up wide crack gains jugs on right wall, then easier (put steep!) climbing to top. 5 RBs and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2008 | 13m, 5 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior
An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high. Start below the major crack on the right side of the wall, 2m L of the Droop Street arete. Move up to the seam to a tricky move, then enjoyable climbing follows to a solid finger crack at the top. FA: Glenn Tempest, Joe Friend & John Chapman, 1976 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
V2 | ★★ Golden Streak
| 4m | Arapiles | ||
20 | ★ Dwarf Pumper
Self explanatory. Far right side of cave. A 'Nowra' style mini pumpfest. Three RB's up steep orange wall. Double RB lower off at top. FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002 | 8m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
10 | ★★ Serpent
Fantastic climbing. There is a variant start to the left at the painted initial "S" but the way described is better. Start below right-hand line up the sombre cleft, right of the initial "S".
FA: Keith Lockwood, Geoff Uebergang & Gary Sudholz, 1967 | 43m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★ The Shroud
1
6
28m
2
10
22m
3
10
25m
4
8
43m
Another great outing up the front of the Pharos. Start 9 metres right of Hurricane Lamp Cracks at the foot of a deep crack.
FA: Unknown, 1965 | 120m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Mantle
More great slabbing. Start 8 metres right of Brolga, directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965 FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965 | 90m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack
The obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of Bluff Major. Wander up the crack to the top. It’s possible to head L to the anchor of FD if you want to lower off, otherwise top out. FA: Ian Guild & Mike Stone, 1965 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★ Voodoo
Start: 3m R of 'Chinese Algebra' at dog-leg crack.
FA: Rosandra Alpine Club, 1965 FFA: , David Shirra & early's, 1970 | 65m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
19 | ★★ Commissioner Gordon
Sustained steep face climbing, one of the better routes on the cliff? Starts about 5m left of "The Riddler". Delicately up the wall, traversing up and left on good break past 3rd bolt to good clipping stance at 4th bolt. Straight up past 5th bolt to rap station. FA: Josef Goding & Naomi Gibbs, 2007 | 14m, 5 | NE Mt Zero Range | ||
9 | ★ Holdup Line
Very nice. Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB. FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★ Lines N' Noses
Fun little jug fest up the left side of the wall on a subtle arete. Starts 1.5m left of 'In Halen' at left edge of main wall. FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2005 | 12m, 4 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
17 | ★★ Preludes
Start at the beginning of the gully, in the gap behind Minstrel Pinnacle. Good tricky and enjoyable crack climbing, but with some questionable rock. FA: Phillip Stranger & Rob Taylor, 1967 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
V5 | ★★★ Epsilon Crack
Start of fin/jug and use crack to gain high edge. Up to finishing jug. | 4m | Flat Rock | ||
7 | ★ Little Revolver Crack
Discontinuous cracks. Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'. | 20m | Arapiles | ||
20 | ★★ Christian Crack
Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of Colosseum Wall - this is the left one. Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 FFA: Joe Friend, 1974 | 13m | Arapiles | ||
V2 | ★ The V2 Sit
| 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
14 | ★ Ckinell
The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start. Start: Just L of Melville's Cave. FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970 | 28m | Arapiles | ||
13 | ★ Sexless Sue
Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top. FA: Norm Osborne & Ed Briner, 1970 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★★ Death Row
Layback corner then L into the "condemned cell", which takes some escaping! Great moves continue above, trending slightly L. Top anchor is several bits of rope/tat with a mallion. Walk over the top of the pinnacle, with a short down-climb to a rap anchor behind boulder. Start: Start at the L-facing corner at the R end of the main face. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 45m | Arapiles | ||
V3 | ★★ Paranoiac Critical Town
| 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
16 | ★★ Coming on Chris
A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb! FA: Mike Law, 1976 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
22 | ★★ Terminal Insomnia
One of the best sport route of this grade in the Grampians. Brilliant, but unfortunately it seeps very heavily after rain. Starts just left of black streak on far left end of the Pocketed Wall. Scramble up and place a sling thread for safety before the first bolt and belay from there or else directly from the bottom. Rebolted 2023 (with a couple of retrobolts added in the final section). FA: Neil Mahant, David Langley & Peter Stebbins | 30m, 7 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) |