Routes in Victoria for selected grade

One of the few worthwhile aid routes in the Grampians, with a huge roof at the very top of the cliff. It is written up with the direct start, which is the best way to do the climb.

The original start (two pitches) came in to the base of pitch four from 45 metres up the gully to the right via mostly easy climbing and a few aid bolts.

It is likely that significant sections of the lower pitches could be freed relatively easily. Using 60 metre ropes could help to run the lower four pitches into two giving a significant time saving on the approach to the roof. Head torches have been found useful in the past. Take 2 bat-hooks and 11 hangers.

The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half from the car with packs.

Start: Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of 'Burning Daylight' (400 metres left of Big Chimney). Scramble about 10m up onto a block.

1. 27m (- M4) Move left and up incipient groove to ledge. BB on right.

2. 40m (12 M3) Step up right (BR) and then left to the foot of a crack. Free up the crack, switching to aid when necessary. Finish with some bolts then free to a big ledge.

3. 10m (-) Step right and up to next ledge.

4. 27m (- M3) The crack, mostly aid, to below the roof.

5. 15m (- M4) The thin crack in the outrageously exposed roof.

another easy line a few meters left of Borley

Easy but lovely line up the obvious right wards crack on the secret beach side of the boulder from a sit

Up arete without using the large 'ledge' below.

SDS wide easy corner crack

Up the obvious nose, seems like it could be slightly precarious until you factor in all the jugs above.

Up the corner finger crack, good holds abound - no struggle here

Stand start with hands matched on the big jug (marked by number on topo), shelf feet. Mantle. May be V0-?

Gain and follow the crack.

Short crack and ridge right side of Big Bird

Start as for Bough Left/Right moving direct up the mantel.

Stand start as for Bough Left stepping right to mantle slab and up.

Stand start both feet on the left low ramp, step and mantle left and up.

Crack 15 metres left of 'Ten Years After', 25 metres right of 'The Lone Ranger'

Crack 3 metres left of 'Hairy Canary'

Sickle shaped corner 5m right of Impromptu. May still have 2 old bolts.

Distinctive crack aided through bulges.

You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.

1. 37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.

2. 24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.

M2 11. A silly climb. Climb the corner immediatly right of 'Clicke Crack' to the roof, aid left to the arete and finish up 'Clicke Crack'.

Start: Starts just right of the obvious splitter 'Clicke Crack'.

A shallow corner angles right.

Start as for Lucky Left Fin and continue up to the block but keeping left. At the block traverse left about 1.5 m with some difficulty to escape up and left.

On the R side of the gully that is 20m R of the lookout. There is a very striking pinnacle on the east of this gully. From the gully climb the face of the pinnacle to a small connection to the main cliff.

45m L of the archway, below a prominent crack. Up 4m to a ledge, up steep crack at the back of the ledge.

Start at the "WSRD" initials on the rock. Climb up the thin crack to the first roof. Slight step left to follow up crack to the second roof. Follow route right for an easy finish and finish up same crack as "Fucket Bucket". Or climb straight up for a more difficult and exposed finish (?WSRD).

Right hand side of the rock, follow chossy chimney on the back and top out steeply on the headwall. Descend onto exposed slab and walk off.

The original and possibly the easiest route on the wall, poor climbing though. The Chimney crack 3m R of TAM.

1. 18m Easily up the chimney line to a small stance on the L.

2. 21m Traverse L 2m into the 2nd pitch of TAM and climb the corner crack with poor protection to a bolt belay.

3. 36m Traverse back R via a dodgy flake to the original line. Chimney up to make a scary exit L onto grass. Choss to the top.

Good positions above the crashing surf. The climbing however is terrible.Starts at the extreme L edge of the Big Cliff, where a chimney starts 6m up and slants L that can be reached at low tide.

1. 16m 11 Go up easily and enter the chimney, which you follow to a good ledge on the R. There is a Bolt Belay at its far end.

2. 25m 11 Back L and cross the top of the chimney. Diagonally up L to a bolt on the L wall. Bad rock leads to a spectacular stance on the arete.

3. 42m 11 (crux) Climb the face above the ridge (bolt at 3m) Traverse R up to a ramp with a big flake. Up with care and continue along the ridge to the R. Evenually you can move up L to a bolt belay on the L wall.

4. 36m 11 Ignore the the chimney of Nostromo above, instead traverse L over boulders until a short loose chimney gives access to the final slope and bolt belay.

From the quartz of FW head @ 18m to 'niche'. Diagonally R till above cave and top out.

Describes anyone who's new routed at this crag!

Start: Start 10m R of the far R end of the main cliff, where a tree leans against a slab.

Mossy crack and smooth slab 5 m R on Sth face of outcrop.

R of the Bed & Becky corner crack. Follow the left leading crack

Slab to R of SUL.

Bulge 1m R of crack, then R side of block.

At the L end of the wall there is a toe. Start 2m past this by going up and L along the ramp until you can mantle. BR.

Up R of Spindrift

Brushed (long ago) crack system. BB (not obvious)

An obvious corner crack system that is visible from the car park and 3m R of Quartz route.

On the outside of the alcove, down and right (exiting the alcove R of Cosy Corner. Climb the arête R of obvious gently sloping corner crack all the way to chains. 3BR and trad (including long slings)

There is a slightly overhanging E face with a series of large ledges on a long thin boulder further left.

Unknown route 1m left of Frogs Hollow. Four non-rusted carrots to the same anchor. Feels about grade 10-11.

The obvious curving crack on the R side of the Appastic Buttress.

Start as for Cardiac Event then step right into upper crack.

Starts down the bottom of the access ramp. LBW is the obvious groove.

1. 25m The groove, L at the top and onto the belay ledge.

2. 25m Up the thin cracks, to the bulge. Directly through this to the large ledge. Climb the face above this at its hardest point to the Razorbacks.

From the flake in Laver's Route head to the BRs. Go left and up following the weakness and find a belay above the BRs.

Not that easy to locate. Start at the R side of the 3rd buttress below a chimney.

1. 43m Up the easy slab and move into and climb the chimney.

2. 43m Up the rib.

3. 44m To the top. Abseil or climb down the rear of the pinnacle.

This boulder is round on the far left side. it goes up to the top over two boulders.

Goes to the left of 2.1, going the easier way whilst also giving access to the next area. As this is at the top of the shelf and slab falls can be a bit nerve racking as the slant below is obvious.

Similar to the No.1 but on the other side of the outcroppy bit which is a bit further up the slab. Again low falls with little risk involved.

A short boulder near the track, nice to start on if looking for something relatively easy. Nice-ish holds along the ridges and the rock patterns just look nice.

Climbs the right arete of the first part of the cliff encountered on the walk in. Scramble up to ledge below a prominent nose. 1 20m Corner, undercling right on overlap to tree belay. 2 25m Right and up lovely finger crack till it ends at arete. 3 15m Layback arete then up headwall.

2 BR up the slab 4m to the left of NRT

Pretty good overall, nice holds although the start can be a bit more difficult. Not to high and has really good views of the valley from on top.

Pretty good overall, nice holds although the start can be a bit more difficult. Not to high and has really good views of the valley from on top.

Belay at top of the grassy gully. Boulder to top of pinnacle on the right to the main face. Up the centre of face to the groove. Place dubious protection then up and slightly right on suspect holds. Climb past mossy ledge to belay on boulders above

Starts 2m right of Hermes. Straight over the flake.

Maybe the top of Dance Of The Curates. It is on the same level as Space Jugging apron but 15m to the right. You need to scramble down from Space Jugging, around the buttress and back up. The left facing corner with a bolt at the top of the gully. Finish up either the right corner or step left and up on buckets.

On pitch 3, continue straight up the crack system. Graded 14 in NW Victoria Guide.

Face and corner 2m left of XT Cherie.

Far superior to SPQR. Good jamming and interesting moves all the way up the nice corner.

The corner crack 1m R of 'Death Gate'.

Obvious crack line when approaching from Drysdale Rd.3m R from fenceline, up slab to finish. DBB