Ascents in Crater Bluff

Sensational

Super cool, definitely a classic, soloed P1, simul-seconded from there to the top. Each pitch was unique. Read the approach section for crater bluff to make the day go a lot smoother (eg. Approach from Dagda Saddle, follows faint trail down to the creek), made for a very memorable day having to bush bash in, but wouldn’t recommend. The rap out was very cool but we spent a lot of time untangling ropes.

Crikey wild and chossy probably more of a grade 12 then 14 but then again your climbing stacked choss. The climbing doesn't deserve star but the adventure as a hole is classic!

A nice day out. We started at 6am and reached the base at about 7:30am. The track off the hiking trail is getting overgrown. I'll link the GPX trail we did without getting lost. We simulclimbed the route in 2 pitches with microtraxions every 30 meters, stopping at the end of pitch 4 to belay my seconder up the 14 crux & reset gear. I took a double rack of cams from 0.2 to 3, 18 alpine draws, and 4 microtraxions. Back at the car by 1pm.

GPX Downloads: https://caltopo.com/m/F8F4H

Wish I had more to say about such a mega route, but honestly the day was perfect. Clear sky, supreme conditions, great climbing. Soloed the first few pitches to speed things up, link p5/6 but again mostly soloing on easy ground. The descent was an adventure in itself down the slippery glacier. Mega first day in the bungles.

Went to have a crack at this (probably classic) route as some kind of minor preparation for Flight of the Phoenix later in the week but failed to find the start (we think) and after wandering up the wall for 100m or so decided to bail off some conveniently left bail slings. Had a minor epic doing this as the rope got caught, ultimately resulting in some very nice climbing back up to free them and then down climbing to prevent it happening again. A very successful self rescue attempt which i feel is an achievement in of itself in the Bungles!

"This is just like sport climbing" said an enthusiastic Harry Kadi upon finding two pitons on the last pitch. Awesome day and the only one of the week where we got back to the camp without needing head torches (although admittedly it was very dark as we walked along the tourist track but we were adamant we wouldn't use them). Dad came up the night before and so he, Harry and i climbed this as a three man team. Harry and i swung leads with me starting meaning that i got to lead the awesome grade 14 pitch - what insane exposure!!!! A fantastic, cruisy day was had by all and an exceptional psychological effort on my Dad's behalf as he had never really done a climb with that kind of exposure before and indeed never climbed anything on gear. Also a lovely and fun descent down Green Glacier where we down climbed all but the obligatory abseils. Can be safely done and descended off with a single 70m rope.

Number Two on the birthday link up with Bluff Mountain and Belougery - 15 hours 55 minutes car to car. Soloed to the base of the crux pitch then simuled to the top in one block. Even better than i remembered. This thing is all time! Descending Green Glacier took longer than the route and is kinda shit (but very pretty).

Mega classic long route. Good view of a party getting themselves into trouble on diagonal route at sunset and not knowing where the crater bluff rap stations are

Techniclly very easy climbing, just very out there and remote. Rope drag is killer if you try to combine pitches, more worth it to just do shorter pitches. Gearwise we used small- large nuts and only one C2 on the whole route, although it wasnt really necessary. The descent down green glaicer is probaby more hectic than the actual route, super steep and slippery. We used 2x 60s and simul raped it. The last rap point can be done with a single 60m folded in half, if you dont mind an easy 1m down climb off the end of the ropes

down climbed this instead of using the rap route, was really very pleasant and would make a very nice lead too. I thought it deserves more than just the one star

stoked to run up this one again

Led 1,3,5 with Kaz. 2 1/2 hours and had to climb through another group. Getting down was also fun. A real mountaineering adventure.

Much better rock quality and climbing than Bastion Buttress. Deserves a lot more attention. We started up cornerstone rib to gully where cornerstone heads left. Go back into alcove with crack at left side. This is likely the direct start. Instead go up slabs starting 3 m left, and after piton go up past another, and step airily right. Then 2 pitches of good quality chimney, no thrutching required. Belay at massive chockstone after first 40 m of chimney. Steps left at top of chimney and follow nice rock corner then easy 20 m scramble to top. Green glacier descent is very overgrown. Definitely safer to abseil from top chains. Traverse to third abseil station is overgrown and was hard to see ( I had to Prussic back up) .

Fond but sad memories from my previous ascent of this with Nick. Did it today from Blackmans camp with Dave and Jonty. The rocks average but the experience is great.

Exciting. scary on old anchors down green gully

with Rodney

On the approach if coming from the carpark, head right at the T intersection, and take the fast path past Balor Hut. This brings you to Dagda Saddle, which shows as Dagda gap on the NP map.

Nice but rock pretty average. Long and has some nice exposure.

Absolutely amazing climb for many reasons. We solo'd the first two pitches. Roped up for the third. Crux pitch was super fun, extra long alpine draws would help reduce the drag if you're with a single rope. We were slow but made it to the top at sunset to enjoy the view for a minute before rushing down.

We scrambled down until we found the tree with two water jugs and a D shackle attached. First mandatory abseil was 30m past the tree on the left wall before the drop off. Then follow path along the wall until you can scramble down and find the Cairns leading the way through the narrow gully. Descent was just as fun as the climb.

With MickyB - sometime in the early 90s.

Simul-climbed pitches 1-3, first time climbing with progress captures. Bottom to top in 5 hours. Beautiful seeing the Green Glacier in daylight this time. Took a more left/arete route on the grade 12 pitch this time for better rock quality and easier climbing.

Awesome line in Outrageous place. Pretty cruisey climbing with a few exposed moves in the middle to keep you honest. Descent Note: To find the last abseil, follow the cairns right (looking out) across the small gully and up the other side. Chains to your left.

Managed to not make it an epic, as a party of 5. We climbed in 2 + 3, worked well, enough room on the belay stances in general. We were overtaken by a party of 2, no issue with a bit of considered rope use. Walked out from Balor hut at 6am, started climbing at 7.30 (in the dark hard to stay on the track up and left after crossing the creek (find the cairns at the crossing), we ended up 30 meters below Cornerstone and had to scramble up, despite a reccie the night before). Topped at 15.30pm had a break and lunch. The descent very doable (it was dry), first a short abseil and a little scramble down the green track. Another short abseil (one bolt with homemade plate). Then a long walk/scramble down more green goodness to last tree (two jerricans of water there, one empty, the other broken but filled with disgusting looking water). From there down climb/walk/all fours to double bolt and chain anchor above waterfall (would hate to that part in the dark when wet). Instructions clear enough to make it with care to the last abseil (double bolt/chain) great views at last of the sun, and down to ledge. Walked off and found the track down just in the last light, walk out to the saddle and balor hut easy to find and fast.

First climb in the bungles and it lived up to the hype, I'll definitely be coming back for more. Very good adventure climbing!

Full value 3 star spicy-as, froth-inducing climbing with a ridiculous aspect, incredible views, beautiful birdsong and wedge-tailed eagle buddies checking us out.

We solo'd P1+2, roping up where the exposed traverse begins at P3.

P4 crux lead brilliantly by Hayden, followed by my really enjoyable traverse lead on P5 with some fun step-into-the-void moments.

Watching Jenny absolutely rocket up the wild-looking blocky spine on P6 was a hoot, and then Hayden cruised to the top, veering right up the slab to get an extra bit of climbing instead of taking the hike-able gully to the summit.

Very grateful for double ropes on this route, as well lots of small gear - I'm not sure I have the hang of Bungles placements, they're incredibly variable and always thought-provoking. I guess we'll have to come back and do it again!

So good to be back on this classic and introduce some new people to it! Superb position and a fantastic day out.

Solo'd P1-P2.5, then roped up for the final section of P3 along the spine proper.

P4, P5 and P6 are all quite different and engaging in their own right. Finished up the handcrack on RHS of exit gully instead of walking out, slightly contrived but recommended.

The exit gully creek was flowing reasonably well thanks to the recent rain.

Lives up to the hype! Pulling onto the crux in a total whiteout and 50 km winds was pretty damn memorable

Stellar climb that had fun and unique climbing.

Easter 2000 - backed of after crux traverse due to unfit nameless partner !!!

The rib is the most stunning feature I've climbed🤙 Amazing!