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Routes as trad in Midgegoroo National Park

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Showing all 51 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
12 A Picnic At Mt. Cuthbert

On the decent trail there is a large slab of rock about 8m high leaning against the main outcrop. Start 1m R of left-hand end of this slab. Straight up slab to gain main outcrop through a broad horizontal break before climbing steep slab to large broken blocks. Skirt around to R of these. Straight up and over low headwall to finish. Belay as for Cakewalk. Pleasant and a lot better than it looks.

FA: Gary Phillips & Steve Digwood, 1990

Trad 25m Midgegoroo National Park
18 Sultans of Swing Trad 10m Midgegoroo National Park
20 Slipway

Mixed trad (4 bolts & gear). Start at base of obvious crack/drain. Up crack to 1st bolt FH (8m). Move R approx 2m and up to base of featureless light gray slab to 2nd FH. Straight up from here, keeping bolts to your L before reaching short headwall and lower off anchors. (medium to large cams) One of the classics of Mt Cuthbert.

Mixed trad 37m, 4 Midgegoroo National Park
10 Cakewalk

An easy slab climb with good pro, suitable for beginners. Start at extreme R of slab, 1.5m L of crack dividing slab from scalloped rock on R. Climb this imaginary line and continue up overlap at top of slab. Belay in crack.

FA: Steve Digwood & Gary Phillips, 1990

Trad 15m Midgegoroo National Park
10 Boom Boom

Easy slab moves with the odd crack. Start 3m L of 'A Picnic On Mt Cuthbert'. Scramble to top of detached slab, straight up white rock through undercling to vertical crack. Finish on juggy weakness at overlap.

FA: Guy Dizzynski & M Marshall, 1990

Trad 27m Midgegoroo National Park
1 Rabbit Hole

Not really a climb, but a handy access route from the picnic rock to the base of the boulders.

Trad 10m Midgegoroo National Park
14 First Sister Trad 6m Midgegoroo National Park
17 Flashdance

Starting on the right side of the boulder, climb to the horizontal crack in the rock. Follow the crack left. At the end of the crack follow the thin face to the top.

Trad 12m Midgegoroo National Park
17 Third Sister Trad 6m Midgegoroo National Park
19 Bull Market

Starts as per flashdance. Climb straight up to bolt and top out.

Mixed trad 10m, 1 Midgegoroo National Park
19 Second Sister Trad 8m Midgegoroo National Park
20 The Drain

Mixed trad (gear & 2 FH bolts. The very obvious groove or shallow corner that is used as a reference point, located approximately midway across the crag. Ensure that good small wires/cams are placed before the committing 1st bolt clip-and-crux sequence. Continue up seam to lower off anchor of White Elephant.

Mixed trad 37m, 2 Midgegoroo National Park
15 Slab Talk

45m (15) 2 pitches, mixed trad & sport route. Start L of the main slab between Beginners Luck and Spaced Out. Pitche1: 23m (15). Tricky start past 3x bolts. Past several eroded slots, which offer some natural pro. Past 1x bolt to rap anchor. Pitch2: 22m (10) past 4x bolts to rap anchor shared with Slabulous. Can also belay at overlap (cams) or continue to anchors at Quiver.

FA: Ronald Master, 1990

Mixed trad 45m, 2, 8 Midgegoroo National Park
15 The spiral

The crack opposite to brush boy

FFA: Raymond Hill & David Ladkin, 19 Jul 2020

Trad 8m Midgegoroo National Park
18 Mac's Crack

First sighted by 'Mac' McArthur decades ago, the slender jam crack in the centre of the wall is both technical and surprisingly sustained! Originally graded 18, but it is harder than Cleavage.

Trad 7m Midgegoroo National Park
21 Doubtful Virginity Trad 6m Midgegoroo National Park
14 One nut wonder

6 meters to the right of gods piece Small thin crack about 1 meter long, climb up to it for first piece of pro. Then climb to top

FFA: Raymond Hill & David ladkin, 26 Jul 2020

Trad 10m Midgegoroo National Park
19 Quiditch with a Chuditch

Magic broomsticks were out in force during the first ascent. Starts at the thin crack behind a bottle brush. Squeeze up through the branches with technical footwork and disappointing finger locks to a sloper jug. Thin gear. A delicate move takes you to an easy angled, gear gobbling crack that leads to a DBB lower off.

FA: Neil Gledhill, Swain Sweeping Team, kate swain & Chris Swain, Oct 2015

Trad 15m Midgegoroo National Park
14 Slanting crack

A very sharp hand jamming crack

FFA: David Ladkin & Raymond Hill, 19 Jul 2020

Trad 9m Midgegoroo National Park
7 Brush boy

Nice easy trad crack.

FFA: Raymond Hill, 19 Jul 2020

Trad 8m Midgegoroo National Park
18 Musket ball's

2 m left of SWS finish a hard boulder problem start! Then easy slab finish. No pro on top be careful

FA: Raymond Hill & David Ladkin, 1 Aug 2020

Trad 11m Midgegoroo National Park
14 Sickle crack

Climb the sickle shaped crack well protected to end of crack then finish on top of boulder, run out finish

FFA: David Ladkin & Raymond Hill, 19 Jul 2020

Trad 12m Midgegoroo National Park
15 Stern crack

Obvious horizontal crack on last boulder replace pro before bouldery start

FFA: David Ladkin & Raymond Hill, 26 Jul 2020

Trad 7m Midgegoroo National Park
13 Stepped crack

Big crack facing west, boulder start to slab up to top

FFA: David Lakin & Raymond Hill, 19 Jul 2020

Trad 9m Midgegoroo National Park
15 Ship wrecked slab

Start as sickle crack then traverse left 3 m then up

FFA: David Ladkin & Raymond Hill, 1 Aug 2020

Trad 14m Midgegoroo National Park
23 Slipstream

This climb is desperate crimp-and-smearfest and that's on a good day! Start approx 3m L of On The Slide, on solid, flaky rock just R of the round nose. Option to thread a wire/ thin tape pro on spike, then up to 1st bolt. Slightly L to 2nf bolt where an extreme but short crux leads to bolt. Up the easier slab past bolts to lower off anchors.

FA: Dave Wagland & Y Mochizuki, 1990

Mixed trad 37m, 6 Midgegoroo National Park
16 Walking the plank

This was free soloed basically

FFA: David Ladkin & Raymond Hill, 1 Aug 2020

Trad 7m Midgegoroo National Park
8 Crowbar man

Easy climb first ascent solo

FFA: David Ladkin, 19 Jul 2020

Trad 9m Midgegoroo National Park
18 Cleavage

The obviously V-groove, just like at Frog Buttress. Take a selection of small wires. Grunty

Trad 7m Midgegoroo National Park
14 Choc-a-bloc

The manky thrutch just L of True Grit

Trad 5m Midgegoroo National Park
12 Gods piece

5 meters right of sickle crack, straight up large right crack to top, then no pro up to finish

FFA: Raymond Hill & David Ladkin, 19 Jul 2020

Trad 12m Midgegoroo National Park
10 Scrub the deck

Basically a solo from last pro. You will deck if you fall

FFA: Raymond Hill & David Ladkin, 1 Aug 2020

Trad 12m Midgegoroo National Park
16 Ringworld Trad 5m Midgegoroo National Park
20 No Wonder Mallory Didn't Make It

Climb the chimney at the L end of the crag then traverse out, around and up the crack.

Trad 7m Midgegoroo National Park
10 It’s Quite Good, Ashley

Start 7m right of Sensible Sock in a right facing corner, behind flake at very right hand end of wall. Up corner to crack, then 4m up diagonally left, then up flaring crack for 7m. Trad belay at flakes. Gear to #1 camalot.

FA: Ross Weiter & Linda Antoncich, May 2015

Trad 15m Midgegoroo National Park
22 Vague Notions Mixed trad 12m, 1 Midgegoroo National Park
12 Treeways

The obvious chimney yields to a combination of bars and grunts

Trad 7m Midgegoroo National Park
24 Masters of Deception Mixed trad 12m, 2 Midgegoroo National Park
21 Cicero

The thin seam up the centre of the wall opposite Mac's Crack, protected by small nuts. Vertically challenged individuals may experience trouble starting, others may not have time to place pro!

Trad 8m Midgegoroo National Park
21 Dungeon Trad 12m Midgegoroo National Park
17 Slanting crack direct

FA: Greg Carter & Raymond Hill, 29 Nov 2020

Trad 9m Midgegoroo National Park
18 Nean's Crack

Start as for flashdance .Trend left and follow flake to and seam to top

Trad 12m Midgegoroo National Park
15 Microphobia

The R-trending crack with a bouldering start up overlap. If you can reach the starting holds it is a 15, else bad luck(hence the name). Good trad gear. FA: R.Weiter, A.Separovich, Jul 08.

There is some interesting but easy bouldering behind that boulder: a hand traverse and a crack: warm up amusements.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/microphobia-at-mt-randall/

Trad 7m Midgegoroo National Park
18 Knuckle Buster Trad 8m Midgegoroo National Park
24/25 Barracuda Trad 6m Midgegoroo National Park
18 Three Flakes Corner

1FH > Cam > DBB

Mixed trad 8m, 1 Midgegoroo National Park
13 Cracked Up Corner

Climb up Yaganing and clip the first bolt. Then traverse right past loose flakes , shrubs and whatever natural gear you feel is appropriate until you reach the fine but short and easy corner. Climb this easily and then head right to a DBB above Book of Torah.

FA: Chris Swain & Mac McArthur, May 2015

Trad 30m Midgegoroo National Park
16 Fairy Moss Trad 8m Midgegoroo National Park
19 Book of Torah Crack Finish

As for Book of Torah, but at the second bolt head straight up to the stereotypical LASER finger crack. It’s too short and a not steep enough but it’s still rather memorable. 2 bolts and some finger sized gear and smaller. Use the same DBB as Book of Torah. Scramble off right and down.

FA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, May 2015

Trad 16m Midgegoroo National Park
20 Missing Sock

Just right of Book of Torah. High first bolt – stick clip it !! One more bolt and some finger sized gear and smaller. Amusing boulder problem start to easy slab. Use DBB up high as for Book of Torah. Scramble down off right.

FA: Kate Swain & Neil Gledhill, May 2015

Trad 16m Midgegoroo National Park
18 Sensible Socks

Just right of Missing Sock. Oh look, another high first bolt – stick clip it too !! Then amble up past blobs and onto slab. Shoot left and clip the 2nd bolt, shared with Missing Sock and up as per that route.

FA: Kate Swain & Neil Gledhil, May 2015

Trad 16m Midgegoroo National Park

Showing all 51 routes.

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