Routes as sport in Perth

starting at base of blah blah blah head up and right on the slab to the first hanger. follow past 7 bolts to anchors of twenty easy steps. a little tough but well protected.

Access route to the base of the crag. Find rappel anchor above Yaganing Slabs, just left of vegetation at the top of slabs. Rappel 28m, to anchor of Brilliant slab & Yaganing slabs, second rap to the ground. You can also easily access Pegmatitic & Narry mica routes. Fun multipitch out of the crag via Access route- 4 fixed hangers, very easy slab.

The line of the crag. Fine steep face and slab climbing on great rock with Druid OH&S approved bolts. Delicate little moves and delicate little holds. Nice.

Just right of PBP and almost as good. Grade 23 when the Cockatoos are bombing you with honkey nuts.

Heading clockwise around the main boulder from Jenga crack Hard project 25, 10m Please stay off

Please stay off Classy. Bolted at the close of the day and waiting a return by us to lead.

Rounded pleasant arete. Best done in mountain boots with a big pack of gumnuts.

No carrots here. Layback then easy slabbing.

Boulder start then up the slab, easing as you will.

Starts up as "Urban Ethics" then from 2nd carrot go straight up to the bolt and continue on the wall staying on the right side of the arete. After climbing crux moves above 4th bolt finish up same as original.

Project - SG

Project - CD

Project - KVA

Project - KVA

Listed as "Project - AG", but likely first done long ago.

Probably around grade 16/17.

Project - JG

Project - JG

Project - GL

Climb state of discontent to the break and traverse across to finish on sweat pea.

6m left of BBMF. For more see Perth Rock 2nd Ed (2013)

See Perth Rock 2nd Ed (2013)

See Perth Rock 2nd Ed (2013)

Not actually on the Solstice Boulder - when facing BoB, Skate Ramp is 6m up the gully behind you.

No stepping R of arete, no using big block to left. Contrived.

As per Perth Rock CLimbing 2nd Ed.

Ascend the North side of the balancing egg-like rock. One bolt

Start up Urban Ethics then branch left into Star Wars. The more common way of doing Star Wars since the rockfall

Link Black Ambience into Rogue State (Perhaps a more obvious start to Rogue State)

The slab with 2BR. J. Truscott, M. Rosser, N. Gledhill 31 Aug 03

Old Gary Matier project 10m left of the big tree near ringworld. The climb is called Old Fusion grade 27 2pb to lower offs. Hope you enjoy Jay.

The overhang on the detached buttress at the LHE of Wungong Slab. 2BR then top-out. Sequency pull-ups, knee bars and heel hooks.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wungong-slab/

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/buckle-up-spanky/

Start up SOD to the obvious break at mid-height. Instead of heading left of the arete as for SOD, break right (and cross the line of Black Ambiance) and head up the obvious leaning corner feature using both the face and the arete of the corner to an exciting finish.

Lower-offs at the top can also be used for neighbouring Animalistic Rage, which has not had lower-offs to date.

WARNING: Same issues surrounding rockfall as the rest of this section of wall (I believe this has lost at least one bolt since the FA)

Logan's description:

"Got the project up the middle of Skywalker wall yesterday (7/3/2011). It was chipped and equipped by Mark Wilson and i got his permission to do it. It starts left of skywalker and goes up the thin face to where the corner block of skywalker used to be. It then goes through the overlap and finishes up premature evacuation. It is awsome technical fingery climbing and a full 30m. Gives your forearms a good pump. Needs some others to attempt it to give an idea of grade as i am not too sure. Could be 28 or 29 but i am leaning towards 29.:

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/03/death-star-29-mountain-quarry-perth.html

A free version of Learning to Fly (though the exact line goes more straight up than LTF)

Logan's description in 2011:

"Finally freed the direct line of bolts Richard kindly put in straightening out Learning to Fly 23 (A0) on the back wall of Mountain Quarry. Has a pretty hard boulder prob at the start (where the A0 move is on LTF) and then another hard boulder at about 3/4 height where the line has been punched straight up over a triangle feature instead of traversing way around right. Hard to grade since its really just two seperate problems which felt about V6/7/8ish? each to me. Be good to hear some comments from others who have tried it."

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/05/unchipped-route-in-perths-big-chip-and.html

Optional (recommended) gear before first bolt

Shares first bolt with 'The Golden Rule' (trend right)

Shares first bolt with 'Friend of Easy' (trend left)

A long traverse on existing climbs.

Starting from the base of Penthouse, traverse diagonally right all the way across the wall up to the ring bolts of ‘Bumble Sea’. There are about 10 bolts, but with quite a run-out in the middle under the large blast-hole. If you want to, use a long sling (3 metres) and the the bolt in the blast-hole and then come down again. Maybe I’ll put a bolt in someday…

Crux is the last few moves from about the Bumble Aye line up to the ring-bolts, about grade 18 if you keep in the direct line and don’t wimp out and use the stuff right in the corner.

‘Not the Wurst!’ 40 m, grade 18, Phillip and Tracy, and Andvariousothers shouting comments…errr… encouragement in the background.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-mq/

Free version of Green Beret

This section of rock is quite snappy and the holds may have changed since the FA

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/first-free-ascent-mountain-quarry/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kates-razzle-dazzle/

Sweet Pea into Cardio Funk Link Up

Cardio Funk into Sweet Pea Link Up

Alchemist - Bulls Link Up.

Start up Alchemist to the jug rest, then go left to finish up Bulls

Bulls - Alchemist link up.

North side of last boulder/buttress. Starts just right of Antimatter Possum, Climb up left arete past bolts. Tricky stepup which could ruin your day if you don't get it first go.

On the furthest small buttress on the right of the crag. climbs right arete past bolts. Sequency. You know you are on a Perth boulder when climbing this

Start between “Shield of Achilles” and “Barren Awakening”. Stick clip the first bolt. Follow expansion bolts and climb up! Lower off fixed biner on 2nd last bolt and lower off ring at last bolt. Delicate, technical and surprisingly good climbing. No idea how this line survived so long without being bolted. Sneaky foot work will get you past the starting moves to a quarry classic mantle. Then a technical crux at the underclings where body position not biceps are the key. Delicate R&R Master slab climbing takes you to the finish.

Start by the marri tree, move right to the carrot bolt and then up past slopey ledges

Straight up the face using crimps and rails

Tricky climbing past 3 carrot bolts

The lower boulder with the large right trending flare. Follow the crack to the break, then climb up the arete

Tricky, delicate moves on small holds. You might just be grateful for that low first clip. There are 2 carrots on top for lower offs

Climb up the flakes to the short slab section, avoid the ledge to the left. There are 2 carrots on top for lower offs

2m to the right of Crystal Direct. Sidle up small ramp to clip high bolt (safer to pre-clip on abseil), then crank up on small foot holds to easier ground.

The remaining climbs start at ground level. Bit Buster follows the dark water runnel 3 m to the right of Crystal Direct

2m to the right of Bit buster. Up past spike to overlap.

1m to the right of Venturi, 1m to the left of tree. Steep start, and thin fingers to get to overlap

1m to the right of SSB at base of tree. Step up to undercling and veer left

2m right of Elfin. Start to the left of small mantleshelf. High foot and stand to clip first bolt.

1m right of CEE. Start to the right or middle of small mantleshelf. Shares last bolt with CEE.

Follows Crystal Direct to the 3rd bolt, then a couple of moves along the leftward curving crack to bolt and up to belay

Follows line of bolts between the leftward curving seam and the crystalline streak

A link from chain reaction to Munji the Soul Stealer.

Climb Chain Reaction, pull through crux then move right and finish up final moves of Munji the Soul Stealer.

A much more Satisfying finishto CR even if it is harder. Probably adds a grade.

5 bolts plus anchors

Start at base of chain reaction, head right up the short arete onto face and follow the bolts. Don’t stray too far left at bottom or top. 4 bolts and anchors.

The face left of 'Corner Shop' has a line of carrot bolts, up the slab to the ledge, then up the rounded arete.

Can't find a record of name or grade in Perth area guidebooks or CAWA forums.

The rounded arête just right of COUTK

This is a Girdle! Start as Bumble Sea heading left upwards direction to DDB of Black Slab, then traverse to finish first pitch on Left Edge. Second pitch topout to the abseil boulders

The deepest jugs in Perth, you can sink your forearms into them (and wash your hands). 10m L and uphill from “Trampling on Roses”. 6 GIMBs and lower-offs.

Middle of the face. 4Br with DBB at top.

4 BR - left side of the main face. Steep.

Start on left boulder, delicately traverse right and up toward anchors, can top out for extra style.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-stathams-quarry/

Fun spot climb for beginners 6 ring bolts.

A gymnastic, fun climb with lots of interesting moves from the start to the very finish. Grade 21 for Boya Boys. 10 years on from the adjacent routes and not much has changed. The Boys are still hard at it. DBB lower off at the top. Named after the quoll sized rock that landed on my back from high up during preliminary route development

Climb face to good edge and first bolt. Then move right to undercling. Stick the committing moves past second and third bolt. Move right and enjoy slab climbing past the fourth bolt. Last bolt is on the middle of the slab between "Boomer Crack" and "Sated and Calm" be light on your toes to top.

Climb Kid Rock all the way to the anchor, and then just keep traversing left to the anchors of Stolen Glory, clipping one of the bolts of the anchors of Bonking Penguins along the way. Fun traverse at the top may increase the grade of Kid Rock a bit, but beware of how dirty and lose the top is — make sure the belayer has a helmet.

3 bolts to DBB. Starts up "fais climbing" then heads right after clipping the last bolt before the anchor. A bit of overhanging grunt work required before clipping one more bolt before heading to the anchors on "shadow of a doubt"

Just a short easy climb with a couple of nice moves. Start at the lowest point below the roof, climb up slightly left to finish. 2 bolts to DBB.

Start in the corner just L of Competitive Edge. Climb the overhanging jug-haul past 6 ring bolts to DBB. FA was done barefoot (shoes forgotten at home).

Start 4m L of BBB. Toddle up the slabby apron and easy groove above until near the top. Then it gets interesting. 7 fixed hangers to DBB.

The right trending curving flake detached thing. A classic and a boulder solo FA at ~ V3 by Mitch Woodward.

Exciting climbing, heel hooking rightward past bolts to a standup slab crux. Fun times indeed. Just like indoor climbing. Only not.

Mitch kindly agreed the line could be bolted.

three bolts on the face right of Bee Wasp

Must have been climbed ? About grade 24 if done direct. Easier if you wimp out sideways.

Impressive steep slab face thing. We were soooo close but no FA yet due to crumbling holds. You are welcome to try. Starts the same as Dumb Idea on you as far as i can remember. Easier if you hold your breath and have the fingers and poise of a praying mantis.

Starts just right of the hanging corner climbed by CUC at the small undercut corner. Boulder up past the first bolt – definite crux. Clip the second bolt and either head left and up the good looking arête or…. Do the crack finish. Four bolts to DBB up high and slightly right of arête finish. Scramble off right and down.

Just right of Pegmatitic. Climb on large white crystals past the mica “fin” sticking out between the 1st and 2nd bolts (looks like wood!), then directly up the crux bulge at top. 4FH to DBB.

Starts left of the tree growing out of the rock just off ground level. Grade 16 according to Mac Mcarthur and Francois Le Bril. There is no “right” way to get to the first bolt… or the second. But you will find the crux near the third bolt. DBB lower off. Enjoyable.

Starts right of the tree. Reachy boulder problem start (for a grade 13!) takes you to pleasant slabbing. 4bolts to DBB lower off shared with Bril-liant Slab.

3 bolts between NL and HP. Then join either route for the finish. Technical and somewhat height dependant. Cruxy.

Shares a DBB/lower off up high, with Schizophrenic, Narrogin Line, Project Mac, Hakea Penance, and Clemency. 10-12m of climbing then 10m plus of easy slabbing to the anchor.

Not named after the 18th century Baron Hake. Named after the spikey bushes at the base. Sustained and satisfying, leading to atonement at the top.

Shares a DBB/lower off up high, with Schizophrenic, Narrogin Line, Project Mac, Hakea Penance, and Clemency. 10-12m of climbing then 10m plus of easy slabbing to the anchor.