Routes as trad in Desperado Walls

An extremely serious undertaking requiring confident leader & second. Start approx 200m left of the shale gut on the ascent path at a huge open book corner that forms a giant yellow sickle at the top. Start on the right side of the corner below a jumble of rocks.

1. 10m Scramble up to below main flake system.

2. 50m Follow the right flake all the way to the top

3. 15m (20) Up the wide, overhanging crack over loose blocks to a small resting spot. Up over first roof then traverse right to a ledge. Nut anchors

4. 30m Follow the route rightwards to the top.

A cliff splitting line that reserves its crux for the very end. Soft rock. Take large pro. Start marked "SoS". 6m right of Traversy at the left of the two great grey cracks.

1. 26m. Go up little walls etc into the chimney and up to the roof. Jamb the left crack to a small stance.

2. 44m. Follow the crack to a stance just above a very decomposed section.

3. 15m (17) Up corner into cave below roof. Jamb out around the roof (exposed) and on to top.

Recommended. Start 40m right of Zeppelin in an obvious left-facing corner.

1. 25m (16) Climb the corner to the start of a chimney.

2. 40m Follow the chimney and corner to the top.

A pleasant climb and a good line. Looks harder than 14. Start 150m right of Zero at a clean crack on a grey wall.

1. 30m Up pleasant jamb crack to a V-chimney. Tree anchor.

2. 20m Up obvious broken corner, slightly left of flake, then around the block and roof to gain ledge.