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Routes as sport in Woy Woy

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Showing all 42 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
15 Stingray

Obvious line up middle of left wall to DRB. Thin start but getting easier with height. 5 BRs.

FA: Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther & Steve Moss, 1978

Sport 15m, 5 Woy Woy
15 HS

2m right of SS/P. Around small bulge and then straight up easy ground to DRB lower offs. Well protected with 5 BRs, although 2nd clip can be a bit stressful.

Sport 15m, 5 Woy Woy
19 Sharon Stone

2m right of WIJALB at huge pocket. 1. Even looks like a great route! 6 BRs.

FA: Richard Jeffrey & Matthew Kingsman-Smith, 1996

Sport 15m, 6 Woy Woy
16 NS

On left side of arete. Stem up the dihedral to start then follow arete to top. 4 BRs to DRB lower off.

Sport 15m, 3 Woy Woy
19 Phoenix

Start as for SS. Nice moves make a classic face climb at the grade. 6 BRs.

FA: Richard Jeffrey & Matthew Kingsman-Smith, 1996

Sport 15m, 6 Woy Woy
18 Inbreeds in the Midst

Mother's Buttress area is to the south of the main descent gully.

The arete at the very base of the gully. Straight up on jugs.

WARNING: This climb has an overgrown/invisible carrot DBB at the top. You can risk losing gear and/or getting stuck.

To finish you can either:

  • Climb out and over the roof of the cave and walk off (this is the safest option; anchor yourself to tree and bring second up to clean the route).
  • From the cave, walk down the ramp of Mother's Choice (not recommended).
  • Double BB's in the floor of the cave. You can either rap off a tree and into the cave at the end of your session to clean anchors, or if you need to abandon route and grab gear later.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 2002

Sport 10m, 3 Woy Woy
16 The maestro

Start as for SM. Straight up left side of obvious large bulging block. 3 RBs (last needs long runner) to double BB.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 10m, 3 Woy Woy
6 H

6m right of G. Up easy slab. 2BRs to double BB.

FA: David Forbes, 2002

Sport 5m, 2 Woy Woy
20 B

4m right of arete. Straight up. A little runout.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn & Gordon Porter, 2000

Sport 15m, 4 Woy Woy
15 Gratitude

4m left of V. Juggy. Up wall and slab to finish. Traverse right 3m to DRB lower offs as for V.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2001

Sport 12m, 3 Woy Woy
18 So wat’cha want

At obvious tree stump. Centre line up block and over bulges. Shares bolts with M

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 10m, 3 Woy Woy
18 Show Bag

4m right of CA. Up to the left, behind tree. 4 BRs.

FA: Gary Hamilton, 1999

Sport 13m, 4 Woy Woy
12 G

3m right of F. Hard start then eases off. 2 BRs to double BB.

FA: David Forbes, 2002

Sport 5m Woy Woy
15 Somethings got to give

Down left below blunt arete. Up around bulge and up final dirty ramp / slab. 3 RBs to double BB.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2001

Sport 10m, 3 Woy Woy
12 Sweet Mamma

Right of the obvious, wide, overhanging chimney. Up steep wall and overhanging chimney. Recently retrobolted with 3 large RBs & double BB

FA: Phil Stallard & Scott Hoy, 1978

Sport 8m, 3 Woy Woy
18 Chicken Nuggets

1.5 left of WNW. Veer left then straight up. A little over protected with 7 BRs. This climb seems to have been retro-bolted with the appearance of several very large ring bolts. The original bolts have not been removed.

FA: Kye Riddington, 1999

Sport 12m, 7 Woy Woy
15 Sure shot

3m right of J. Another a little gem! Thin slab then over bulge. 3 BRs to single RB.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 6m, 3 Woy Woy
18 Sabotage

3m left of TLG. Up nice slab. 3 BRs to double BB. This line was drilled minimally by Grant Severn immediately before the appearance of the final line.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2000

Sport 8m, 3 Woy Woy
19 Chips Ahoy

4m right of O. They needed a lot of cleaning to unearth this one. Up through suspect rock passing 5 BRs (2012 - this route looks clean and appealing). Single carrot for anchor.

FA: Kye Riddington, 1999

Sport 15m, 5 Woy Woy
17 Brass monkey

Slabby blunt arete. Nice little climb. 2 BRs to single RB.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 6m, 2 Woy Woy
16 Gordo's Climb

3m left of W. Straight up wall and slab above, traverse right to belay as for V / W. 3 BRs.

FA: Gordon Porter, 2002

Sport 12m, 3 Woy Woy
15 Drunken Praying Mantis style

4m right of TLG. Wandery and brittle, take care. Veer right toward arete then up left to belay. 3 BRs to double BB.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2000

Sport 3 Woy Woy
21 Rub a Dub

2m left of M. Up passing 4 BRs. A #3.5 friend keeps the rope out of the way to start.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 2000

Sport 15m, 4 Woy Woy
19 Hard Stuff

On small boulder in centre of wall. Up centre of wall, fingery holds with a few good jugs lower down. 3 BRs to double BB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, Matthew Kingsman-Smith & Jenny McClaren, 1996

Sport 7m, 3 Woy Woy
Q

Right side of Roundabout Gully. Straight up past 3 BRs to double BB belay.

FA: Gary Hamilton & David Forbes, 2002

Sport 6m, 3 Woy Woy
16 Pow

2m right of K. Dirty slab. 2 BRs to shared single RB with 'K'.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 7m Woy Woy
17 R

Around arete 4m left of Roundabout. Through chossy start then straight up steepening slab. 4 BRs to triple BBs.

FA: Gary Hamilton & David Forbes, 2002

Sport 10m, 4 Woy Woy
21 Gastric

Up SB then veer right, the back left to rejoin SB to finish. 4 BRs.

FA: Gary Hamilton, 1999

Sport 13m, 4 Woy Woy
22 Putting shame in your game

Right line on block. Start up chossy undercut (take care) to first high clip, then up over bulges. Watch the tree behind you. 2 BRs and 1 RB.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 10m, 3 Woy Woy
16 X

2m left of GC, and just right of damp crack. Straight up steep slab passing 3 rusty BRs.

FA: Kye Riddington, 1999

Sport 4 Woy Woy
16 D

At right end of Stuff Wall. Up through chossy cave then veer left.

FA: Gary Hamilton & Shane Hirst, 2001

Sport 7m, 2 Woy Woy
17 Shake your rump

2m right of I. Nice thin slab then over bulge. 2 BRs to shared single RB with 'I'.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 6m, 2 Woy Woy
21 Pauls Project / C

2m right of S. Up. Paul Rivere's abandoned project.

Sport 12m, 3 Woy Woy
21 Just a test

2m right of TLG. Up thin wall. 4 BRs. DBB .

FA: Shane Hirst, 2000

Sport 10m, 4 Woy Woy
21 Honey I'm Wet

At low flake. Move from low flake to slightly wet dominant pocket (I've heard people describe their wives this way!). Easily down climbed to clean. 3 BRs.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 1996

Sport 6m Woy Woy
21 Climb this

20m left of Sweet Mamma. Up right side of blunt arete passing 2 BRs and 1 RB. Take care with opening gate on second runner.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 7m, 3 Woy Woy
12 New Years Day

3m left of Spalding. Around bulge on frail holds then up slab to left. 4 BRs.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 10m, 4 Woy Woy
22 Left wing

Line of large U bolts left of CN

Sport 12m Woy Woy
14 I don’t know

20m right of 'O'. 2 BRs and 1 RB.

FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002

Sport 4m, 3 Woy Woy
22 A

2m left of HIW. Start up past 3 BRs. Again best to down climb to save a lot of mess.

FA: Gary Hamilton, 1999

Sport 6m, 3 Woy Woy
25 Big Traverse

Long traverse heading rightwards

Sport 12m Woy Woy
The Direct
Sport Woy Woy

Showing all 42 routes.

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