Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
8b | |||||||||
8b | Halteverbot | 140m | Hochwiesler | Wed 1st Jul 2015 | |||||
MSL mit vier Längen
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7B | |||||||||
7B | ★★★ Cosmic Train — 5 attempts | Vils | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||||
7B | ★★★ Cosmic Train — 2 attempts | Vils | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 21st Sep 2023 | |||||
7A+ | |||||||||
7A+ | ★ Unbekannt 17 | Vils | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | ||||||
7A+ | ★ Unbekannt 17 | Vils | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Mar 2022 | |||||
7A | |||||||||
7A | Soul Rebel | Vils | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | ||||||
7A | Soul Rebel | Vils | Sun 27th Mar 2022 | ||||||
9- | |||||||||
7 |
Schrei aus Stein (Gimpel Classics)
- with
Alpinlama
16
3
linkup Ausstieg
| 700m | Gimpel | Thu 22nd Jul 2021 | |||||
9- |
★★★ Gelbfieber
- with
Frithjof Winkelmann
1
8+
lead by
Fabian Michel
Too difficult for me without any warm up, also mentally, even though protection is quite good.
2
8+
lead by
Frithjof Winkelmann
Nice pitch, first a pumpy traverse on a series of big holes, then straight up and slightly overhanging. Had to rest once.
3
7+
lead by
Fabian Michel
A traverse on a ramp with chossy rock and then an overhanging part with good holds (the rock is glued).
4
9-
lead by
Frithjof Winkelmann
Better rock quality and a very nice pitch. First, a traverse to the left on slopers and a far reach up into a crack. Face climbing after the crack. Somehow did not have any energy left at this point and could only do a few moves in a row, even on good holds.
5
8-
lead by
Fabian Michel
Slightly overhanging climbing leading into a crack. I also didn't have any energy left for this pitch. | 100m | Hochwiesler | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
Nice climb, but very chossy in the first three pitches. However, all key holds have been glued and the route has been cleaned, so almost everything is solid now, it's more that it looks chossy. Continuously overhanging on yellow rock. Would be a classic for me if the rock quality was better.
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9- |
★★★ Gelbfieber
- with
Fabian Michel
| 100m | Hochwiesler | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
Compared to other routes in this area this route is awesome - steep, athletic climbing on mostly good holds. Rock is choosy, but since a lot is glued in this doesn't impact climbing that much.
The crux pitch was a bit above my onsight level - crag gloves might be helpful here.
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8+ | |||||||||
8+ | ★★★ Zentral Pfeiler | 380m, 8 | Rote Flüh | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Jun 2005 | ||||
8+ |
★ Polarstern
- with
Frithjof Winkelmann
1
8-
lead by
Frithjof Winkelmann
Slabby. Small holds and small feet at the end, I fell three times at almost the same place.
2
7+
lead by
Fabian Michel
Nice face climbing, and the rock quality is relatively good (for the area).
3
8+
lead by
Frithjof Winkelmann
Very hard section on small and sharp holds, then a nice steep finish on good rock.
4
8-
lead by
Fabian Michel
Ridiculously hard single move for the grade (getting over a bulge with few holds), then very easy through grassy terrain.
5
8+
lead by
Frithjof Winkelmann
Best pitch of the route. First a slabby part, however there are always quite good holds and then a steeper part with one reachy move. I had to try this move three times before making it, using different handholds than Frithjof Winkelmann. | 150m | Hochwiesler | ★ Good | Sat 7th Oct 2023 | ||||
The last pitch is the best, the quality of the other pitches is mixed.
|
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8+ ~9- |
★ Polarstern
- with
Fabian Michel
1
8-
lead by
Frithjof Winkelmann
Already not easy for the grade, face climbing on some small crimps (for comparison, this pitch felt harder than pitch 5).
3
8+
lead by
Frithjof Winkelmann
Felt super hard, I couldn't even do all the moves - comparing this to Gelbfieber, this pitch could also be graded at 9-
5
8+
lead by
Frithjof Winkelmann
Best pitch of the route. This felt relatively easy compared to the other pitches (maybe the second easiest pitch of the whole route?). The crux consists of one very reachy move on quite good holds. | 150m | Hochwiesler | ★ Good | Mon 9th Oct 2023 | ||||
Very weird grading on this one, feels like holds broke out on a few pitches making them quite hard for the grade.
|
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6B+ | |||||||||
6B+ | Unbekannt 23 | Vils | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | ||||||
6B+ | ★ Startvariante | Vils | ★ Good | Sun 27th Mar 2022 | |||||
8 | |||||||||
8 | ★★ Miss Nesselwängle | 180m, 42 | Zwerchwand | ★★★ Classic | Wed 20th Oct 2021 | ||||
8 | ★★★ Schwarze Mamba (Schwartze Mamba) | 270m, 12 | Rote Flüh | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Oct 2004 | ||||
8 |
★★ Kuschelrock
1
6+
35m
2
7+
20
3
6+
30
4
8
10
5
6-
20m
| 120m | Gimpel | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th May 2022 | ||||
mit Direktvariante (7+)
|
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7- |
★★ Miss Nesselwängle
1
7-
25m
2
6+
35m
3
4
5
6
7
8
| 60m, 42 | Zwerchwand | ★ Good | Mon 20th Jun 2022 | ||||
Die teilweise überschwänglichen Bewertungen der Route kann ich nicht ganz nachvollziehen, aber einige nette Seillängen sind schon dabei. Leider sind die jedoch meist viel zu kurz. Kaum kommt man in den Kletterfluss, schon kommt der nächste Standplatz... Die 8er Stelle hat es in sich, das ging bei mir nur A0 - und auch danach bleibt es noch für einige Klettermeter deutlich schwieriger, als im Rest der Route. geniale Abseilfahrt!
|
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8 | ★★ Miss Nesselwängle | 180m, 42 | Zwerchwand | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th Jun 2022 | ||||
8 |
★★ Kuschelrock
1
6+
35m
2
7
15m
3
6+
15m
4
6+
35m
5
8
20m
| 120m | Gimpel | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | |||||
8 |
★★ Kuschelrock
1
6+
35
2
7
15
3
6+
15
4
6+
35
5
8
20
| 120m | Gimpel | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Schwarze Mamba
- with
Frithjof Winkelmann
| 270m, 12 | Rote Flüh | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Oct 2023 | ||||
Starts with a nice dihedral and then a vertical part on gray rock with lots of edges but not that many good holds. Then a bit of slab and two relatively steep and very nice pitches in the sixth grade. We took the Hochwiesler rappel, so we skipped the last two pitches.
|
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8 |
★★★ Schwarze Mamba
- with
Fabian Michel
| 270m, 12 | Rote Flüh | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Oct 2023 | ||||
8 | ★★★ Schwarze Mamba - with Fabian Beck | 270m, 12 | Rote Flüh | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | ||||
6c+ | |||||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Schäferstündchen | 120m, 44 | Schäfer | Mon 22nd Nov 2021 | |||||
8- | |||||||||
8- | ★ Akrophobie | 85m | Zwerchwand | ★ Good | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||
6c | |||||||||
6c | ★★★ D´r Fischer Franze | 100m, 32 | Schäfer | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Nov 2021 | ||||
5C | |||||||||
5C | Unbekannt 16 | Vils | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | ||||||
5C | Unbekannt 14 | Vils | Tue 29th Mar 2022 | ||||||
5C | Unbekannt 14 | Vils | Sun 27th Mar 2022 | ||||||
7+/8- | |||||||||
7+/8- | ★★ Mamma Mia | Gimpelhaus Klettergarten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | |||||
Very nice maybe 6a to the first anchor
|
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7+ | |||||||||
7+ | ★★★ Schwarzer Afghane | Wolfebnerspitzen | ★★★ Classic | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||||
Spannend
|
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5B | |||||||||
5B | Enterprise | Vils | Tue 29th Mar 2022 | ||||||
5B | Unbekannt 19 | Vils | Sun 27th Mar 2022 | ||||||
7 | |||||||||
7 | ★★★ Welcome to Verdon | 100m, 8 | Hochwiesler | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Oct 2004 | ||||
7 | Südwestwand | 280m, 16 | Rote Flüh | Sun 31st Oct 2021 | |||||
7 ~7+ | Salsa | 8 | Läuferspitze | Average | Fri 23rd Jul 2021 | ||||
7 | ★ Pavelas | 140m | Hochwiesler | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Jun 2006 | ||||
7 | ★ Pavelas - with Frithjof Winkelmann | 140m | Hochwiesler | ★ Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
Inhomogeneous, the 7- and 7 pitches are easy apart for about 2 meters of climbing. There are also quite a few parts in chossy rock.
|
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7 | ★ Pavelas - with Fabian Michel | 140m | Hochwiesler | Average | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
The two harder pitches are almost one move wonders. Lots of choosy Rock in between.
|
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7- | |||||||||
6 |
★★ Neue Südostkante
1
4
280m
2
3
3
5+
4
5
5
6
6
6-
7
5+
8
6-
9
6
10
6-
| 280m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th May 2017 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Schwabentanz | 110m | Wolfebnerspitzen | ★★★ Classic | Thu 20th Jun 2013 | ||||
6 7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante | 320m | Gimpel | ★ Good | Sun 14th Oct 2018 | ||||
7- | ★ Gimpelgeist | 170m, 12 | Gimpel | ★ Good | Fri 21st Jun 2019 | ||||
7- | ★★ Tannheimer Revival | 180m | Zwerchwand | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | |||||
6 7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante | 320m | Gimpel | Sun 31st May 2020 | |||||
7- | ★★ Südwestkante - with Nico | 300m, 46 | Rote Flüh | ★★ Very Good | 2015 | ||||
Nachtrag
|
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6 7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante | 320m | Gimpel | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Jun 2021 | ||||
7- | Monotonie | Gaichtpass | Thu 19th Aug 2021 | ||||||
Leider etwas feucht
|
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7- | ★★★ Schwabentanz | 110m | Wolfebnerspitzen | ★★★ Classic | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | ||||
6 7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante | 320m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Oct 2021 | ||||
7 7- | ★★ Südwestkante | 300m, 46 | Rote Flüh | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Nov 2021 | ||||
7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante | 320m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | ||||
6 7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante - with Niklas | 320m | Gimpel | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | |||||
7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante | 320m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Jun 2022 | ||||
7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante | 320m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Oct 2021 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Lechtalblick | 210m, 12 | Gehrenspitze | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | ||||
2 Nachstiegsstürze in der Schlüsselseillänge
|
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7- |
★★ Neue Südostkante
3
5
25m
4
5+
23m
5
5
26m
6
6
23m
7
6-
22m
8
5+
28m
9
5+
28m
10
7-
26m
11
5+
22m
12
6-
32m
| 290m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||
über Direkteinstieg
|
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7- | Quertreiber | Gimpelhaus Klettergarten | Thu 25th Aug 2022 | ||||||
Schwere Stelle am dritten Haken, danach bleibt es interessant
|
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7- | ★★ Südwestkante | 300m, 46 | Rote Flüh | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Oct 2022 | ||||
7- | ★★ Tannheimer Revival | 180m | Zwerchwand | ★★ Very Good | Wed 19th Oct 2022 | ||||
7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante - with La Pantera | 320m | Gimpel | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Aug 2022 | ||||
7- Hard | ★★ west Side Story | Gimpelhaus Klettergarten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | |||||
7- |
★ Gimpelgeist
1
5+
35
2
6-
29
Vorsteiger hat sich verlaufen. Vom Stand der Nachbarroute zum 2 Stand durch Schrofen gestapft
3
7-
38
No way, yet | 100m, 12 | Gimpel | Sat 10th Jun 2023 | |||||
Brüchig!
|
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7- |
★★ Neue Südostkante
- with
Marit Nava
1
4
30m
2
3
35m
3
5+
45m
4
5
30m
5
6
25m
6
6-
25m
7
5+
30m
8
6-
30m
9
7-
30m
10
6-
40m
| 320m | Gimpel | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | |||||
7- | ★★★ Südwestkante | 230m | Wolfebnerspitzen | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Sep 2021 | ||||
In der 2. darf man ein paar Keile legen, in der 3. wird es luftig! Die Schlüsselstellen sind sehr gut gesichert. Oben raus wird es dann leichter aber alpiner - beherztes Klettern zwischen den Haken ist angesagt.
|
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7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante | 320m | Gimpel | ★ Good | Sun 9th Jul 2023 | ||||
7- | ★★ Neue Südostkante | 320m | Gimpel | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Jul 2023 | ||||
7- Hard | ★★ Tannheimer Revival | 180m | Zwerchwand | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Jul 2023 | ||||
7- | ★★ Südwestkante | 300m, 46 | Rote Flüh | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | ||||
Better than the guidebook says. One weird hard move in the crux pitch, otherwise really nice climbing all the way.
|
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7- | ★★ Memory - with Nicole | 100m | Zwerchwand | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | ||||
6 |
★★ Neue Südostkante
- with
RockrockerMo
1
4
30m
2
3
35m
3
5+
45m
4
5
30m
5
6
25m
| 170m | Gimpel | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | |||||
Too much wind. We hike the evening and made a bivouac at the hut. Early bird first walk through snow until the bottom. We went right from the root free to skip the 2 first pitches. Spaced split so no plaisir but normal for alpine route. The third pitch was nice and I expect that the rest of the route is really enjoyable. Do not underestimate the way down if there is snow.
|
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7- | ★★ Tannheimer Revival - with Patrick | 180m | Zwerchwand | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
7- |
★★ Neue Südostkante
1
4
30m
2
3
35m
3
5+
45m
4
5
30m
5
6
25m
6
6-
25m
7
5+
30m
8
6-
30m
9
7-
30m
10
6-
40m
| 320m | Gimpel | Sun 28th May 2023 | |||||
7- | ★★ Hirschbrunft | 110m | Hochwiesler | Average | Thu 28th Oct 2021 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Hirschbrunft
1
4+
35m
2
5
15m
3
6+
40m
4
6+
20m
| 110m | Hochwiesler | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Jul 2022 | ||||
nervige Schrofen, aber zwei sehr schöne Platten
|
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7- | ★★ Hirschbrunft | 110m | Hochwiesler | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | |||||
7- | ★★ Hirschbrunft | 110m | Hochwiesler | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | |||||
7- |
★★ Hirschbrunft
- with
Nicole
1
2
3
4
| 110m | Hochwiesler | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | |||||
5A | |||||||||
5A | ★★ Trihangel | Vils | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Mar 2022 | |||||
5A | Unbekannt 10 | Vils | Tue 29th Mar 2022 | ||||||
6+ | |||||||||
6+ | ★★ s'Bienchen | 75m, 24 | Hochwiesler | Average | Sun 27th Jul 2014 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Via Jonas | 250m | Hermannskarturm | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Aug 2015 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Via Jonas | 250m | Hermannskarturm | ★★★ Classic | Wed 19th Jun 2013 | ||||
6+ | Neue Südwestkante | 220m | Wolfebnerspitzen | Tue 18th Jun 2013 | |||||
6+ | ★★★ Wirklich oben bist du nie | 170m | Gimpel | Sat 8th Jun 2019 | |||||
It turns out we were actually in "Gimpelgeist(7-/7)", which was not as planned and proved too hard for my second. Gimpelgeist is not in the locally sold Topo.
|
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6+ | ★★★ Wirklich oben bist du nie - with Christina Baker | 170m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Sep 2019 | ||||
5c 6+ | ★★ Zwerchweg - with Christina Baker | 200m | Zwerchwand | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Sep 2019 | ||||
6+ |
★★★ Wirklich oben bist du nie
- with
Johannes
2
lead by
Johannes
3
lead by
Danilo Bürger
4
lead by
Johannes
5
lead by
Danilo Bürger
6
lead by
Johannes
| 170m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Jun 2020 | ||||
5c 6+ | ★★ Zwerchweg - with Nico | 200m | Zwerchwand | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Oct 2014 | ||||
Nachtrag
|
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6+ | ★★★ Wirklich oben bist du nie - with Nico | 170m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | 2015 | ||||
Nachtrag
|
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6+ | ★★★ Wirklich oben bist du nie | 170m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Jun 2021 | ||||
6+ | ★ Papa Ratzi | Gaichtpass | Thu 19th Aug 2021 | ||||||
6+ | Vertikalverkehr | Gaichtpass | Thu 19th Aug 2021 | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Wirklich oben bist du nie | 170m | Gimpel | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Sep 2021 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Wirklich oben bist du nie - with Eva | 170m | Gimpel | Mon 22nd Nov 2021 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Direkter Südwand | 360m, 8 | Rote Flüh | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Sep 2006 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Südostwand | 440m | Rote Flüh | ★★★ Classic | Mon 10th Nov 2003 | ||||
7- 6+ | ★★★ Schuster Führe | 210m, 8 | Hochwiesler | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Oct 2004 |