Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
6b+ | ★★★ El Schuppo
Excellent climbing on large flakes along western edge of Wig und Wam. FA: Uwe Eder & Zimmermann, 1994 | 16m, 10 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
7a | ★★★ Maracuja
Tricky, vertical climbing on edges. To the right of El Schuppo. FA: Uwe Eder & Zimmermann | 17m, 5 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
6+ | ★★ Rampe
| 30m, 11 | Amberg | ||
6a+ | ★★ Mein Gott Walter (First Pitch)
FA: 1986 | 20m | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
7- | ★★ Die Linke
| 30m | Amberg | ||
6+ | ★★ Por-yes
DIE Aufwärmroute. FA: Ch. Küng & M. Wasina, 2007 | 12m, 5 | Stadtschrofen | ||
6- | ★★ Schattalagant
| 15m, 7 | Walgau | ||
6a | ★★ Anderland | 16m | Engelswand | ||
8- | ★★ Die Schlinge | 20m | Sparchen | ||
7 | ★★ Lorünser Verschneidung | 19m, 8 | Walgau | ||
{FR} 5a | ★★ Köpfleblick
FA: 2021 | Walgau | |||
6+ | ★★ Dead can dance
| 35m, 12 | Walgau | ||
6 | ★ Hace trabucho jien
| 12m, 5 | Walgau | ||
7a | ★★★ Santana
FA: Bernhard Schiestl, 1996 | 22m, 10 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
5c+ | ★★★ Der Wolf und die Zwerge | 25m | Engelswand | ||
6- | ★★ Ambergverschneidung
Rock quality better than in the neighbor 6- route 'Soft und sexy'. Loose parts can be avoided without problem. The dihedral is fun to climb. Trad ascent possible - larger cams benificial. | 25m, 11 | Amberg | ||
6a | ★★★ 08/15
FA: Gerhard Hörhager sen., 1975 | 35m, 2 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
{FR} 7c | ★★★ Schmarotzer
FFA: Peter Schäffler & Marco Wasina, 1993 | 25m | Walgau | ||
7- | ★ Hüpper de Nüpper
FA: Roman Fehr | 12m, 5 | Stadtschrofen | ||
7- | ★★ Schwabenkinderblues
| 23m, 11 | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Gimme Bananas
FA: 2021 | 15m | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6b | ★★★ Let it rock
| 25m, 11 | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Plastic People - extension
| 27m | Walgau | ||
{FR} 7b+ | ★★ Stahlfinger
FFA: Jenny Kurt, 1994 | 13m | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Liquid Spirit
| 25m, 13 | Walgau | ||
6 | ★★ Via Johanna
FA: Wolfgang Vogl | 20m | Känzele | ||
7- | ★★ Primera Alto
| 30m, 12 | Amberg | ||
6a+ | ★★ Grisu | 20m | Oberried | ||
{FR} 6b | ★★ Kümmerling
| 25m, 12 | Walgau | ||
7- | ★★ Por-no
FA: K. Bereuter & M. Wasina, 2007 | 12m, 5 | Stadtschrofen | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Marco's Liste
| 25m, 10 | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Bürser Verschneidung
1
6a
15m
2
6b+
5m
6a till the old anchor (single ring). 6b+ till the double ring anchor (where the extension starts) | 20m | Walgau | ||
{FR} 5c | ★★ Gemeinsam statt einsam
FA: 2021 | Walgau | |||
6 | ★★ Spuren des Bösen
| 35m, 15 | Walgau | ||
9- | ★★ Free
FA: German Lotzer | 25m | Ardetzenberg | ||
{FR} 5c+ | ★★ Ablaufdatum
FA: 2021 | 15m | Walgau | ||
5b | ★ Goldköpfl | 10m | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
7- | ★ Dämmerlicht
| 14m, 5 | Amberg | ||
6- | ★★ Rucola
1
5-
37m
2
5-
28m
3
4
32m
4
5
38m
5
6-
32m
6
5-
25m
7
4+
30m
FA: Ewald Eisendle & Sepp Lesssiak, 2012 | 220m, 7 | Martinswand | ||
6a+ | ★★ Lausbubenverschneidung | 20m, 10 | Oberried | ||
7- | ★★ RAF | 15m, 6 | Stadtschrofen | ||
5 | ★ San Martin
| 10m, 6 | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6b | ★★ Ice Age
| 25m | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Buschdackel
FA: 2021 | 15m | Walgau | ||
6a+ | ★★ Streamer | 10m | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
5+ | ★★ Alphornkiffer
| 17m, 8 | Nofels | ||
{FR} 5b+ | ★★ Henkelsmahlzeit
FA: 2021 | Walgau | |||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Nemo
| 25m | Walgau | ||
5c | ★★ Via Lisa | 30m | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
6a | ★★ Its your time | 25m | Engelswand | ||
{FR} 6b | ★★ Menuett
| 30m | Walgau | ||
FR:7a+ | ★★ Metamagikum ext.
| 30m, 13 | Walgau | ||
6c | ★★ Midclimb Crisis
Has a short tricky crux-move for a 6c, but the rest is easier. | 35m, 15 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
6b | ★★★ Strada del Sole
1
5b
35m
2
6b
20m
3
6a
30m
4
5c
20m
5
5c
20m
6
6a+
25m
7
5c
47m
https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/strada-del-sole-noesslachwand/ FA: Alexander Giacomelli, Florian Gufler & Patrik Gufler, 2004 | 200m, 7, 14 | Nösslach | ||
{FR} 7a | ★★★ Octopus
| 30m | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Die Verwandlung
| 25m, 12 | Walgau | ||
6+ | In der Nähe der Sonne
Für eine 6a hat sie weite Züge. Griffe sind gut, doch nicht immer gleich zu sehen. | 10m, 4 | Stadtschrofen | ||
6a | ★★ Traumtänzer | 20m | Engelswand | ||
6b | ★★★ Papermoon | 18m, 10 | Oberried | ||
8- | ★★ Papillon
| 25m, 10 | Amberg | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Metamagikum
| 18m, 8 | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Amor
FA: Matthias Burtscher, 2009 | 30m | Oetz | ||
{FR} 5a | ★★ Magic
| 18m | Scharnitz | ||
{FR} 5c | ★★ Abendausklang
| 20m | Walgau | ||
{FR} 5b | ★★ Putzteufelchen
Start am kleinen Überhang. | 25m, 11 | Walgau | ||
7- | ★ Sonnenhut
FA: Leane Amann & Wilfried Amann, 2003 | 30m, 9 | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6a | ★ Meckertante
| 15m | Walgau | ||
7- | ★★ Zwischen Macht und Wahrheit
| 35m, 14 | Walgau | ||
5 | ★★ Wespenplage
| 18m, 10 | Nofels | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Chill
1
6a
2
5c
| 27m, 2 | Scharnitz | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Valentinstag
FA: 2021 | Walgau | |||
9- | ★★ Rapunzel
Left of 'Lorünser Verschneidung' | 20m, 9 | Walgau | ||
5- | ★ Sunshine
| 15m, 10 | Nofels | ||
{FR} 7a+ | ★★★ Rattenfänger
| 30m | Walgau | ||
7 | ★ Black Pearl
| 22m, 11 | Walgau | ||
7- | ★ Alviersand
| 20m, 10 | Walgau | ||
6a | ★ Captain Hook
1
5b
2
6a
| 18m | Oberried | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Bizeps
FA: Hermann Scalet | 30m | Oetz | ||
6b+ | ★★ Das letzte Einhorn
FA: Gerhard Hörhager & S.P. Darshano, 1983 | 12m | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Linke Wand | 20m | Oetz | ||
{FR} 7a | ★★ Sturzflug | 20m | Oetz | ||
6- | ★★ Eiger Feelings
| 15m, 10 | Nofels | ||
6- | ★★ Mug | 18m, 7 | Morsbach | ||
{FR} 5c | ★★ Ein Stück Heimat
FA: 2021 | Walgau | |||
6c+ | ★★ Schattenspiel | 15m, 6 | Oberried | ||
7+ | ★★ Panische Plagiatoren
| 25m, 13 | Walgau | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Eine Handvoll Glück
FA: 2021 | 14m | Walgau | ||
6c | ★★★ Sechsplosion
FA: Gerhard Hörhager, 1983 | 27m | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
{FR} 5b | ★★ Kante
FA: Hermann Scalet, 1975 | 20m | Oetz | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★★ Harakiri
FA: Hermann Scalet & Reinhard Schiestl, 1974 | 30m | Oetz | ||
{FR} 7a | ★★ Trompetras Vision
| 16m, 6 | Walgau | ||
5+ | ★★ Flotter Dreier
1
4+
30m
2
5-
25m
3
5+
25m
4
5
30m
5
5-
30m
Start of the route is marked with the plate with the name of the route. In general, it's very easy multipitch with quite long runout in easy sections. The whole route is full of pockets very common on Martinswand. If it's getting too hard probably you're heading in the wrong direction. The 3rd pitch with traverse to the right it's a bit tricky/reachy but there are good holds and this part is well protected with bolts. All anchors are equipped with two not connected bolts, some of them with extra quicklinks. Warning! On the anchor, on the top of 2nd pitch/beginning of the 3rd pitch there is stuck non-climbing screwgate carabineer rated for 350 kg and this one should be removed - do not clip to it. FA: Hans Wagner, Sepp Lessiak & Ewald Eisendle, 2002 | 140m, 5 | Martinswand | ||
6b | ★★ Klushund
| 30m | Kalkofen | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Schuh des Manitou
| 20m | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
{FR} 6b | ★★★ Guater Haggen
FA: Hermann Scalet, 1998 | 30m | Oetz | ||
8 | Tanz der Blätter
| 25m | Amberg | ||
{FR} 5c | ★★ Rechte Wand | 25m | Oetz | ||
6+ | ★ Mückenplage
| 15m | Amberg | ||
7- | ★★ Schwan
1
7-
2
7-
3
6
FA: Harald Fischer, 1996 | 30m, 3 | Walgau | ||
7+ | ★★ Im Steinbruch 1
FA: Wolfgang Muxel & Alex Zyntek, 2013 | 10m, 4 | Walgau |