Ascents in Austria

Amazing long route through the middle of the wall. Only had time for one attempt. The start is a bit strange on downward angled edges and few foot holds, first going up and then traversing to the left. The end of the traverse is a very fun boulder problem: after matching an undercling on your right, you go left into a very long sidepull which you take as a gaston with the left hand. The right foot is on a really big hold, which allows you to bring in your right hand to a bad sidepull at the upper end of the edge on your left. Then, the left hand is placed further down on a large ledge. With the left hand pushing, you match feet on the good foot hold, then put your right foot further in and left on a tiny foot hold. For stabilization, put the left hand a bit further left, place your left foot where the hand was and then slowly extend your left hand to the upper left until you reach a jug (I turned the movement into a half-jump at the end to be able to reach all the way). After some easier climbing, there is another hard section after a very good undercling. The final slab is also not super easy.

Photos and topo are inconsistent in our guidebook - not sure if we did this one.

Nice dyno at the second quickdraw. I first thought I definitely would not be able to do it, but it was not that hard with enough commitment, surprisingly. The setting right next to the river is amazing.

Crux on tiny crimps

(w/o qd) Repeat 1st Go

1 try

(w qd, L1 9-, L2 8+, L1+L2 7b/+) 2nd Go of the day + 3 more tries

Nice climbing with a 100% Rest inbetween. A bit of a one move wonder though, with the hardest move being right at the top. Almost climbed it today, Slipped on the final jug.

Hard, hard, hard.... Feels like 8a to the rest followed by another boulder. Tried it the first time 3 years ago. Many sessions over the years, this year 2nd session. Cant beleive i sent it first time i reached the rest, i was certain i'd fall on the last boulder at least once. Started all my send goes from the ground and not platform.

Oben nicht von den Chalkspuren verleiten lassen, sondern tief bleiben, sonst steht man über dem Umlenker.