Ascents in British Columbia by Alexei Drummond having sport-cpr or ascent-date

Red point! Not in the best style as the first two draws were pre-clipped, but the locals on the 5.13a next to us were doing the same thing Nevertheless, I repeated it in better style later in the same session.

Repeat. In better style. Only first draw pre-clipped for safety.

Really nice crux movement. Alex’s onsight attempt revealed all.

Red point. As always, went smoothly once all the beta is known About 23 moves. A no-hands rest is possible if, like me, you prefer to make things as easy as possible.

Nice varied route with some subtle movements down low and a crimpy face crux at the top that didn’t have much chalk to show me the way. Glad I held my nerve.

Third attempt of the day. Equal high point (hold 17+). Then two hang

Fourth attempt of the day. Matched high point (hold 17+; going to the right shark tooth jug next to last bolt). Then one hang. Still very warm.

Fourth go of day. High point (hold 17). One hang.

Third go of day. High point (hold 16). One hang.

First attempt of the day. Hung a few times.

Second go of day. Got through the crux from the ground. High point on this trip.

First time on this in a year. I had just hurt my back, but still felt much stronger than last year and made it to the top for the first time

Second tie-in. Had first and second pre-clipped to focus on getting the moves. Did all the moves including clipping 3rd and 4th, with a couple of rests to understand the sequences. Hardest single move seems to be between 2nd and 3rd on the "peanut hold" pinch.

Only flashed this because Alex had good beta. Easy at bottom, makes the grade at the top.

Warm up. Nice gym style climbing.

Warm up. Finally sent the warm-up

#2ndGo easy with beta.

Warm up

Quite fun moves but over quickly.

#2ndGo. Embarrassingly easy low crux, knowing where the holds are. The top is fun.

Warm up

Stay on face with no arete or cracks to left for full value.

Repeat to clean the gear off.

Thin, but the hard moves are done after the first two bolts Short, fun and so stoked to onsight at this grade.

Warm up. I climbed to the second last hold, then punted. Afterwards I worked out that I needed to flag my left foot while heel hooking the rail to make the match much easier. I also worked out the correct feet for the final move to the clipping jug.

Climbed easily to second last hold. Still couldn't work out feet. Cut feet and then came off. One hang and then clipped anchor.

Checking the moves.

Had a proper attempt. Clipped all the bolts but called take directly after clipping the last bolt as I was slipping off the jug Just two moves below the anchor One hang.

Warm up

Tried to do it in better style, but left foot slipped in crux.

Second attempt of the day. Fell off the lower crux going to sloper ledge.

First attempt of the day. High point (hold 17+). Very warm.

This was a very tenuous send. Dynamic smearing and desperation but everything kept sticking somehow

Warm up

Warm up

Warm up

First go of the day. Clipped 3rd from the ground, but realised I was much weaker than the previous day, so didn't bother going further.

First go. Went bolt to bolt to 4th clip. Pulled past the crux between 3rd and 4th.

Second working go. Clipped 3rd clean from the ground. Did all the moves to the 4th bolt clip. Tried the moves above and clipped the 5th bolt.

Third go. Already feeling weak. Clipped 3rd clean from the ground. Then gained pinch, but couldn't do crux move to slopers below the 4th. Decided I was toast for the day.

Warm up. Tricky crux with worn shoes

I had the sequence down really well, especially after watching Alex work the route as well. Felt really locked in and very happy with this send #2ndGo

#2ndGo easier when you have chosen which crystals to stand confidently on. Shoes too soft for this type of climbing

Couldn't get off the ground on my first tie-in. Difficult to read boulder problem.

Super happy to get to the top of this without a stick clip. Cool boulder problem (though took all the skin on my left index finger), followed by some balancy moves and quite a difficult final slab approach to the anchors. Really cool line. Wish I had more time to give it another burn.