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Routes as trad in Quadra Island

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Showing all 44 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Chinese Mountains Trailside Crag
5.6 Trailside Crack

follow the prominent crack up the middle of the crag. (potential piton)

Trad 20m
Chinese Mountains Manzanita Wall
5.8 Sheep Thrills Trad 25m
5.10b Circling Vultures Mixed trad 27m, 8
Chinese Mountains Lotus Land
5.7 Triple Jump

first pitch starts at the left side Fern Gully Walls witch tackles a 30m 5.3 with 1 bolt the second pitch is a 8m 5.7 with one bolt and a piton the third pitch is another 8m 5.7 with good trad pro

Mixed trad 45m, 3, 3
5.7 Chockstone Corner

climb the obvious right facing corner to the first bolt of A Midsummer Night's Dream than continue straight up (bring 120cm sling to wrap around the chalkstone but be carful not to dislodge it)

Mixed trad 18m, 2
5.9 Meditation On The Lotus Petal

this route is located at the ramp that leads to Chalkstone Corner. climb ribs and flutes on quality rock (1 piton)

Mixed trad 15m, 3
5.7 Shanghigh

starts above a small pine tree, scramble up to the first ledge to an open book crack and continue above

Mixed trad 24m, 3
Chinese Mountains Great Wall
5.5 Staircase To Heaven

the furthest left route on the Great Wall. starts ~40m to the left of the lowest point (Silk Road), use the midway anchors or Xanadu for second rappel

Mixed trad 55m, 5
5.8 Xanadu

starts a few meters to the right of Staircase To heaven

Mixed trad 60m, 2, 5
5.9 Taishan

this route starts ~15m to the right of Silk Road under a mossy terrace. (pitch 1) easy climbing to the belay spot of Meandarin and keep heading straight up 25m 5.8 7 bolts. (pitch 2) after the first pitch head up on to a ledge and traverse leftwards and scramble up small block top the belay anchors of Meandarin 15m 5.6 1 bolt, consider linking pitch 1 and 2 together. (pitch 3) from the belay head toward the anchors of Dynasty but head straight up the arete that leads to a corner cut right at easier blocky terrain 20m 5.9 4 bolts. (pitch 4) from the belay spot head straight up the upper short wall with better pro in the crack, continue to the anchor 25m 5.8 2 bolts.

Mixed trad 85m, 4, 14
Chinese Mountains Jumping Frog
5.9 Springboard

starts at the leftmost side of Jumping Frog Wall (pitch 1) 25m 5.9 11 bolts. (pitch 2) 20m 5.8 3 bolts.

Mixed trad 45m, 2, 14
5.9 Amphibian

the second climb from the left featuring a roof in the lower section (pitch 1) 24m 5.9 8 bolts. (pitch 2) follows the rightmost route 16m 5.4 4 bolts

Mixed trad 40m, 2, 12
Chinese Mountains East Wall
5.10d The Great Leap Foward

shares the same start as Art Of War but takes the direct line straight up the wall

Mixed trad 28m, 10
Chinese Mountains Far East
5.10+ Arch Anemone

the furthest left route on the wall

Mixed trad 50m, 2, 16
5.10a Garden Of Heathen

the multi pitch route to the right of Triad. at the second pitch pulling straight over the roofy bulge (10c) avoiding it (5.8)

Mixed trad 40m, 2, 15
5.10a White People Spicy

the route to the right of Jenga Start

Mixed trad 22m, 8
Chinese Mountains Sickle Edge
5.5 Nestle Wrestle

this climb is located on the far right side of the crag above a collection of boulders

Trad 6m
Chinese Mountains Evening Wall
5.5 Evening Star

climb the prominent wide crack above Bedtime Story (trad to 6")

Trad 20m
5.9 Cinderella Story

the climb to the right of the Evening Star anchors. (pitch 1) 5.9, two line options, the Left line up the hallow flake (10b) or the right line up small blocks (5.9). (pitch 2) 5.7, 5 bolts follow the line under the obvious roof and traverse right and up over the roof.

Mixed trad 40m, 2, 5
5.8 Midnight Express

the climb to the right of Bedtime Story (pitch 1) 5.7, 4 bolts a short line up a steep step to a slabby face. (pitch 2) 5.8, 3 bolts the line up the left side of the huge flake. (Pitch 3) 5.7, 6 bolt, from the belay climb right an up to the small roof, climb direct over small roof and gain blocky ledges and flake.

Mixed trad 55m, 3, 13
5.8 After Eight Flake

the route to the right of the top anchors on pitch 1 of Midnight Express. (Pitch 1) 5.8, 4 bolts, #6 stopper, climbs the right edge of the detached flake, use a sling on the large horn follow up an angled corner ramp to a steep step to the anchors, shares last pitch with Midnight Express

Mixed trad 20m, 2, 10
5.10a Nightfall Corner

the route to the right of After Eight Flake

Mixed trad 20m, 5
5.7 Wildflower Stem

the route to the right of Ironwood Corner (shares anchors with Nightfall Corner)

Trad 17m
Chinese Mountains Horizon Wall
5.10a Eclipse

the leftmost route on the wall. (pitch 1) 5.8, 3 bolts. Start left from Horizon and continue straight up to the anchors. (pitch 2) 10a, 6 bolts. follows the line around the gold wall and up to the anchors. (pitch 3) 5.9, 4 bolts follow the line straight up to the anchors.

Mixed trad 60m, 3, 13
5.8 Darkwave

to the right of Eventide

Mixed trad 35m, 10
Chinese Mountains Yardarm Bluff
5.7 Little Strathcona

the leftmost route on the cliff

Trad 30m
5.8 Loose Change

to the right of Little Strathcona

Mixed trad 20m, 4
Trad-gically Gripped

to the right of Loose Change (shares anchors)

Mixed trad 6m, 8
5.9 Crystal Malice

to the right of Trad-gically Gripped

Mixed trad 20m, 4
Morte Lake Little Morte Edge
5.10+ Melting Point

FA: Andy Brown & Rich Barry, 25 Jun 2014

Mixed trad 10m, 4
Morte Lake Lake View Crag
5.11c Rigor Mortis

FA: Bryan Sexauer, 6 Jun 2015

Trad 14m
5.8 Verdict Trad 22m
Breton Island West Platform
5.10d Blood, Sweat and Beers

FA: Philip Stone & Richard Sagar

Trad 10m
Breton Island Central Platform
5.7 Sybil’s Slit

FA: David Green, 1989

Trad 14m
5.3 Easy Street Trad 10m
5.7 Basil’s Crack

FA: Philip Stone, 1989

Trad 12m
5.10d Breaking Breton

FA: Allan Ramsay, 25 May 2017

Trad 8m
5.7 Dead Parrot

FA: Rob Wood & David Minchello, 1989

Trad 15m
5.7 The Rat

FA: David Minchello, 1989

Trad 12m
5.4 Don’t Mention The War

FA: Brooks Hogya, 1989

Trad 12m
Eagle Crag West Wing
5.5 Crack'teryx

start to the right of fools gold climbing a long wide crack (optional multi Pitch) gear from 1 - 5

Trad 55m, 2
5.7 Emergency Rainbow Generator

same start as Culture Of Fear (optional multi-pitch)

Mixed trad 50m, 2, 4
5.8 Crash Corner

start up Bang For your Bolt and head left at a ledge

Mixed trad 20m, 4
Eagle Crag Main Wall
5.11b R Captain Falcon

the route to the right of Talon

Mixed trad 55m, 3

Showing all 44 routes.

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