Ascents in House of Cards having Beta

Was super proud when Jon asked me to retro one of his classic routes. Rest in peace Jon. You’re missed. All of the hard work you put into the BV and this sport won’t ever be forgotten.

Not sure what the third bolt is doing so far out to the left.

Linked pitches

Lead it slightly damp -- seemed really easy for 5.8, even dealing with dampness. I'd call it 5.7 at most. But generally fun. (When I finished the lead and got asked what I thought of it, I said it was a really nice 5.6 climb.)

Done in single pitch. First pitch a bit too easy for a 5.9, second pitch is a pretty tough 10a with a spicy finish. Anna led this one too.

Cleaned some loose rocks.

Cleaned some loose rocks.

Crimpy up top had to rest at a couple clips.

Basically a boulder problem. 2 bolts. Very polished feet.

Basically a boulder problem. 2 bolts. Very polished feet.

Flake above first red hanger is a bit scary! No really memorable moves, definite crux at the bulge, though.

The sidepulls! Wouldn't say the start is a "cruise" as the route description in Bow Valley Sport suggests, but the money is definitely on the crux sidepulls. Good stuff!

Despite unseasonably warm weather, climbing in the shade made for cool rock. Nice moves, fairly consistent. Climbed together with p2 for a quality 40m+ pitch.

Footwork, footwork. Tricky roof problem. Climbed together with p1 for a quality 40m+ pitch.

Sustained at the grade. Old copy of Sport Climbs lists this as a 10b, but 10c feels fair.

A bit of an odd one. Worth a lap, despite the polish.

Fun, seems to be easy for some and hard for others. More 5.9 territory in my mind.

Fine. Sure, why not.

Get on this before it's polished. Cruiser start leads to a super fun technical crux section near the finish.

Long and meandering, not great. Better on the wall.

very crimpy and hard to read moves

Pretty fun for a 5.8. The final moves on the last couples of clips make up for the rest.

Great warm up climb - watch for the creek level as it can run through belay area.

A bit more run out and rock quality a bit iffy. Exciting crux

Done as one 45 m pitch with P 2

Nice roof moves

P1 10 b, P2 10 c, did as one long route, 18 draws

Another nice long route

Hard for a 5.8 not the best climb to intro new climbers.

Balancing moves... my favourite! Technical and crimpey to the crux for the last move.

Climbs remarkably better than it looks!

Nice long route, a little slabby at the start but overall a really good warmup.

Really interesting climbing

long!

5 mintes earlier I witnessed someone lowered off the end of the rope and fell from the first draw, bounced several times, and landed in the creek - about 7m. He was ok though.

wet slab. Climbing is still good fun though

More wet slab

Followed Mike up this

Good climbing with a tough and tech crux with some very stiff moves. Nice climbing

I ran this pitch into the 2nd pitch of the new route to the left which was 11b/c to make a 50m pitch. 4 good solid cruxes

33m pitch, long climb, sustained with fantastic moves. Felt great.

Tried it in January but all the upper section was icy. Bit easier when dry, though still tough for the tick

wiinnnddddyyyyy

Requires lots more than 10 draws