Ascents of Security

First try... some decent progress, but need to come back to it.

Completed it for the first time, that is, I pulled every one of the moves, each time I fell re-setting to where I was before I fell. But I fell a lot -- though not as early as last time I went after it.

One rest at the bolt.

Clean top rope this time. I think I'm going to work the moves for the red point

Spent a long time working the moves for a pink point. Bit too ambitious 3 weeks after 3 months off. Next season perhaps

Left shoulder popped out its socket and had to back off. Really gutted coz I was thought the crux and the clim was mine. Next time security, next time

Checking holds and gear placement before the red point I will take you security

Top roped, checked gear and how wet the holds are before the red point attempt

When a nemesis becomes a project! Finally I get this climb on lead, a very important red point and feel so good to finish my project. I had forgotten it was a 5.10d after all that.

Better again. Clean to the crux section onto the slab; two falls on that section, then clean to the finish. Another try or two and I might put it together. On TR, that is. Lead... hm... have to think about that, don't have to carry much rack, at least.

Again at the crux. I need to figure out the sequence without falling several times. sigh

Took two tries at the crux to figure it out. It should go clean next time and possibly lead as there is a nice juicy bolt guarding the crux.

Got the lower sequence pretty smooth and easy, but took about 4 tries at the crux. I think I may have a slightly better sequence now, but will need to try again soonish.

Went clean on toprope. Sussesed out the gear. Bottom takes some bomber nuts protecting the hard moves to the first bolt. Bolt guards the crux nicely but the top has nothing but runout. Redpoint is a ways off, but I can see it.

Didn't expect to make it up Security today, but actually did, surprising me.

Some key holds were a bit damp, making this harder than normal.

Not horrible this time, but not too bad.

One fall. I think wrong foot placement. Most of it felt easier than I'm used to it feeling.

One hang at the crux. Then a careless foot placement in the easier section for an unneccessary second fall. Still went smoother than I expected.

Not as smooth as previous. Rock felt more greasy, was a more humid day. Need to really try this on a cool, dry, day.

Got spanked trying to lead this.. got onto TR to figure out the crux moves.

All about the feet - good feet make the difference between impossible and success

Forgot how sustained the bottom section of this climb is. Will be back.

Some guys had a top rope already on this and we're nice enough to let me give it a go. I've also realized my stick clip can get the first bolt so I may go for the sport redpoint sometime

3 or 4 hangs at the crux.

I still think it isn't harder than 10C.

Stick clipped the first bolt to skip the gear section, then got shut down on the crux. I guess that's karma haha.

I've got the beta fully down now. TR'd the whole thing with a few rests then lowered to the start of the crux and sent the top half clean.