Ascents in La Petite Folie having Beta

Was a bit trickier feeling on lead than on TR, especially with cold fingers -- but went ok.

Dirty.

Was soaking wet, making the lead a lot more challenging than it should be. I think, dry, it would be a pleasant climb.

Not quite a crack climb, not quite a face climb

Lots of water on it made this a harder climb than it should have been. Would like to climb it dry sometime.

Came back for the send. (Well TR-send.) Project for lead?

Went more smoothly and easily than I expected. Maybe I need to try leading it next time.

Almost got it... final sequence, didn't find the one good hold I needed in time.

Wasn't feeling it today, retreated after 2nd piece.

Short but hard.

Not as difficult as the roof at the top of the dihedral looks.

You can do this as a layback almost the whole way, or, if you've got flexibility and like dihedral stemming, you can half-stem, half-jam up to the roof. The friction is great for the smeary finish past the roof. A lovely climb.

Was very happy to get back and lead this. Takes gear well.

Went surprisingly smoothly.

I think consistent with other 5.3s at Montagne d'Argent, but feels easy in the grade to me.

A bit dirty, but otherwise nice climbing.

Only the first pitch. I couldn’t figure where the second pitch was.

Can follow crack leftward past 1st anchors to 2nd set of anchors at top (near steel cable). Can link both pitches and lower with single 60m rope

Pitches can be linked and lowered with a 60 m rope

Didn't feel like leading it on wet rock, so I just top-roped it after climbing Arretez-le quelqu'un.

Some nice friction work near the bottom.

I think I know where the name comes from. Somehow, the moves you make on this climb make you feel like a rabbit. It's a cute climb.

A quick run up to rescue Shaunna who got scared on lead above a bolt -- the rock was a bit damp, so a bit scarier than normal.

"Warm up" on a cold day. Lead the first 2/3rds with gloves on to keep my hands warmer.

This is mostly a friction/slab climb, so much of it being wet made the lead trickier. No gear, but a couple bolts.

Climbed this as the second pitch of Lapin agile, traversing sideways off Lapin agile to the bolts at the top of Encore! mon lapin. Kind of short as a second pitch, but what the hey. It was fun. With a 40m rope we couldn't do the whole of Lapin in one pitch.

If you're in for a little challenge try the direct start, brings it up to about 10d for that little section.

Linked.

Linked with Encore!...

Went easily, even when wet. The guide pictures bolts for the low traverse which don't appear to exist.

Direct start is fun and goes at 5.10'sh. if you have a 60m no reason to not continue to the top.

Linked with Arretez. Went fine, with lower-off, on a 60m rope.

Linked with Arretez...

Very fun beginner trad route.

There's an amazing nut placement in the middle on which I took a fall in the context of a course.