Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Started on the right as for True Drew
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5.5 | ★ Piton-be-gone | 10m | |||||
First climb in Canada
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Mon 15th May 2023 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mixed Feelings - with Alexander Pimentel | 15m, 3 | |||||
No trad, used the 3 bolts
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Mad Hatter | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found the anchor area tough to work with, limited footing or area to transition into a rap after the top rope solo setup. Fun little pitch just be prepared to be hanging off your personal lanyard to do any rope work following climbing and into the final rap.
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Mon 11th Apr 2022 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.5 | ★★ Queen of Hearts | 15m | |||||
wet like usual, send it
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5.9 5.10a | ★★ Airy and Scary | 20m, 7 | |||||
Loose rock before anchor, where a helmet if possible, very fun climb, 2 extended draw to have a straighter line
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Wed 25th Aug 2021 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Airy and Scary | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really fun and consistent climbing. There is no longer a locker at the chains.
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Sat 12th Jun 2021 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Fire Starter Direct - with David Gibbs | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very photogenic.
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5.10c | ★ To Follow the White Rabbit - with David Gibbs | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Toproped this and couldn't get the crux.
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5.8 | ★ unknown left - with David Gibbs | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell after the ledge of this trying to reach for a hold. Tight belay recommended for that part. Probably not that hard to clip if you're not so short.
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5.9 | ★ Grey Beard - with David Gibbs | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A little less cleaned than the right version.
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5.9 5.8 | ★ unknown left - with David Gibbs, Bartski, Su A. Alteen, Kate Hunt | 20m, 7 | |||||
Hard for a 5.8
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5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang - with David Gibbs, Bartski, Su A. Alteen, Kate Hunt | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard for a 5.8
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5.8 | ★★ Mixed Feelings - with David Gibbs, Bartski, Su A. Alteen, Kate Hunt | 15m, 3 | |||||
The easiest 5.8 here.
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5.10c | ★ To Follow the White Rabbit - with David Gibbs, Bartski, Su A. Alteen, Kate Hunt | 10m, 3 | |||||
The crux requires very good crimping for a super high reach.
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5.10a | ★★ Crimper's Cramp - with David Gibbs, Bartski, Su A. Alteen, Kate Hunt | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I should have led it. Tricky but it all goes quite consistently.
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5.10a | ★★ Airy and Scary - with David Gibbs, Bartski, Su A. Alteen, Kate Hunt | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really interesting moves. Doesn't let up much and the move to the third bolt is freaky and all the bolts are quite widely spaced. The climbing is probably no harder than 5.9 though, putting the fear factor aside.
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5.8 | ★★ Areted Development - with David Gibbs, Bartski, Su A. Alteen, Kate Hunt | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun but a bit dirty.
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5.9 | ★ Grey Beard | 10m, 5 | Average | ||||
Mostly the same as Someone's Overhang.
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5.10a | ★★ Crimper's Cramp | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A lot of thin moves.
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5.8 | ★★ Areted Development | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit dirty and mossy -- needs a recleaning or more people climbing it. Not as good as it could be in the current shape.
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5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Took a couple tries to find the good hold.
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5.5 | ★★ Queen of Hearts | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Anchor feels awkwardly low.
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5.7 | ★★ True Drew | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good climbing and good gear when not wet and dirty.
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Mon 19th Oct 2020 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Through the looking Glass | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell clipping the anchor 😔
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Thu 15th Aug 2019 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10c | ★ To Follow the White Rabbit | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Came back after two years and hiked the crux move on second try using a thumbdercling/sloper I'd have never considered. The rest is easy sailing for the grade in solid crimps and good feet.
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5.10d | ★★ Down the Rabbit Hole | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Fun, delecate climbing throughout. No harder than white rabbit, just more sustained.
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5.10a | ★★ Crimper's Cramp | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Hard for grade. I followed the arete to the top. Not sure of this is correct but the face is quite blank.
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Fri 2nd Aug 2019 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Mad Hatter | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
It's not a 5.8 if you finish on the face. It's in the 5.10 range for sure.
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5.10a | ★★ Airy and Scary | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite enjoyable, extend mid section draws to limit rope drag. Route is well protected.
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Tue 7th May 2019 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★ unknown left - with Zachary Smart | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got chased out by the rain so me and Zach Smart Multi Pitched this to try and beat the rain
Had my first real fall from a lead, maybe 10 feet, had do some funky maneuvers to avoid slamming Zach into the wall but no injuries all around.
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Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang - with Sean Sullivan | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tough Climb. Lots of crimps. Once you get the holds all figured out shouldn't be a problem. I need to go back and just clean up my climb. Too tired that day to clean it up.
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5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This was my first route I ever tried to climb outdoors last year and I couldn't even get onto the wall, came back and lead it free and clean this year. Great climb, good jugs above the overhang, good side pulls. First left foot is sketch, consider a stick clip or be confident.
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Fri 20th Oct 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ True Drew - with Sean Sullivan | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun climb, great view. Good Rappel spot as well
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Sat 16th Sep 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.5 | ★★ Queen of Hearts | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
TR to setup TR on Mixed Feelings.
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5.5 | ★ Piton-be-gone | 10m | Average | ||||
TR to clean anchor.
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5.5 | ★ Piton-be-gone | 10m | Average | ||||
Clipped the bolts - stopped at ledge, upper face was soaking wet.
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5.9 5.8 | ★ unknown left | 20m, 7 | Average | ||||
Seems harder than 5.8, even if using the Arete to the left -- straight up the bolt line would be definitely into the 10s.
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5.10a | ★ Mad Hatter | 15m, 5 | |||||
Wandered all over the face, where-ever easiest.
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5.5 | ★★ Queen of Hearts | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Tough lead soaking wet.
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5.6 | ★ Easy Way Up | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Soaking wet slab at the start -- but ok once established on the climb.
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Fri 15th Sep 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ True Drew | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Finished my night with sending this route clean.
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5.5 | ★★ Queen of Hearts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic line to climb if you are fresh off the boat for trad. This was my first trad ascent tonight. No falls, 2 short rests to catch my breath.
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Tue 12th Sep 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10c | ★ To Follow the White Rabbit | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Got it clean. To protect the crux pre-clip a long runner to the second bolt. This will prevent a potential ground fall from the first bolt.
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Wed 23rd Aug 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Fire Starter Direct | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sequence specific moves at the lower half of the climb. Bolts well placed to protect route. Medium gear used for corner. Bomber .75 and #2 placement.
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Thu 17th Aug 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mixed Feelings | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Takes medium sized gear really well in the horizontal crack mid way up
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Mon 7th Aug 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10c | ★ To Follow the White Rabbit | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
I cleaned the route on rappel. One powerful crux sequence.
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Sat 5th Aug 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ True Drew | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Dirty, protects well.
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5.10a | ★★ Crimper's Cramp | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Felt harder than 5.10a on lead
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Sat 1st Jul 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Crimper's Cramp | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did this line twice, second run was better when I figured out some beta on it. Still had to rest. This is my next project so I can climb it clean.
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Thu 15th Jun 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Through the looking Glass (project) | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After working the top Boulder problem on TR, I managed to redpoint it on lead. If you're tall this
route goes at 11b -- if you're shorter you will
Have to find a different sequence that could potentially make this 11+/12a. I suggest calling it "Through the looking glass". Thanks to who ever bolted this, no longer an open project!
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Tue 13th Jun 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10b 5.10d | ★ Mad Hatter | 15m, 5 | |||||
High first bolt. Stick clip would be good. Seems less than a 10d. Maybe 10b/c.
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Thu 8th Jun 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★ unknown left | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bottom half to the ledge was easy to work out, challenging still on the footwork for newer climbers like myself. Getting passed the spot where sap was leaking out of the rock was spicy, gotta stick left.....
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5.10a 5.11b | ★★ Through the looking Glass (project) | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I was junk, made it to 2 meters from the finish and just blanked out, I didn't know what to do for this last bit. Calling it 5.10a because I'm good usually to 5.9 on top rope.....newer to climbing.
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Thu 11th May 2017 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★ unknown left - with Jeff | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Start off easy, works into a harder climb. All around fun
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5.10a | ★★ Crimper's Cramp | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun climb! 10 out of 10 would recommend to a friend
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5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wonderful overhang route with great holds to get you out and up the overhang
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5.10a | ★ unknown right | 20m, 7 | |||||
Tricky, sparse feet after the comfy rest on the ledge.
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Sun 18th Sep 2016 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ True Drew | 15m | |||||
Climbed again to clean the anchors.
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5.8 | ★★ Areted Development | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed again to clean the anchors.
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5.5 | ★ Piton-be-gone | 10m | Average | ||||
Climbed again to clean the anchors.
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5.5 | ★ Piton-be-gone | 10m | Average | ||||
Soaking wet, making it a bit more exciting. Clipped bolts from "unknown" as well as placing gear.
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5.7 | ★★ True Drew | 15m | |||||
Nice climb, would be nicer -- and easier -- dry.
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5.6 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
The slab at the start was very slippery when wet -- almost like wet slime on the rock.
Rope was on wrong anchor -- so finished up and left to the anchor for Areted Development, rather than following the corner up and right. Probably a harder finish -- but fun. |
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5.8 | ★★ Areted Development | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice movement.
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5.5 | ★★ Queen of Hearts | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Would have been a lot less stressful on lead if it wasn't soaking wet.
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Sun 3rd Jul 2016 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang | 10m, 4 | Average | ||||
Easy climbing into the overhang. Use high feet to cruise the crux. Top could still use cleaning.
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5.8 | ★★ Mixed Feelings | 15m, 3 | Average | ||||
Enjoyable warm up. Good slab climbing. Great climb to practice placing gear.
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Tue 28th Jun 2016 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Easy Way Up - with Jeff A. | 7m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprisingly fun! The gear is solid and the climb tops out really nice.
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5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang - with Jeff A. | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Finally got it..
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Tue 21st Jun 2016 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★ unknown left - with Colin cook | 20m, 7 | Average | ||||
Used the far left edge, goes very blank if you are not going to use it
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Thu 9th Jun 2016 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 5.10d | ★ Mad Hatter | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
No way this is 10c. Easy climbing throughout, was graded 5.8 until recently.
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Wed 8th Jun 2016 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10c | ★ To Follow the White Rabbit - with Meghan Beale | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
One tricky sequence between 1-2 bolts
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Tue 10th May 2016 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Fire Starter - with Rob Klodt | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Tried the alternate start on Mad Hatter. Top portion was slimy so I had to rest and use the root.
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Fri 11th Mar 2016 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mixed Feelings - with Kyle Lanteigne | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
First climb of the season. Packed down the ~4ft snow base for a belay station. Wall was clear of snow and ice.
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Thu 17th Sep 2015 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Crimper's Cramp - with Meghan Beale | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Used the right edge past the third bolt then made my way back left.
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5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang - with Colin cook | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Spent a long time and many tries finding the best way over the overhang. Once I finally got up to the jug, straightforward climb.
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5.10a | ★★ Crimper's Cramp - with Meghan Beale | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
And it continues. Was able to link crux. A few more sessions and it will go. Tough route finding.
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5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang - with Meghan Beale | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Easy climb into the crux. Fun move to the jug. Top of the route could use some cleaning.
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Sun 30th Aug 2015 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mixed Feelings - with Laura Durelle | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Solid technical climb with very blank sections. This route does have some gear placements but this route will not eat up gear. The guide I printed has it listed as a 5.7, I would agree with the current grade of 5.8 leading it as a mixed climb.
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5.10a 5.10d | ★ Mad Hatter - with Ethan McDonald | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Marginal route with very fragmented climbing. Moves are not conducive to being read or made. This is definitely a climb for the more experienced leader and into the .10s. 5.8 is a sandbagged grade.
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Thu 27th Aug 2015 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Crimper's Cramp | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Classy line. Decent crimps throughout. Figured out all the moves and linked most. Feet beta is tricky.
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5.8 5.10d | ★ Mad Hatter - with Colin cook | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome climb, harder start.
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5.10a | ★★ Crimper's Cramp - with Colin cook | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb, trust the feet.
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Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.7 5.8 | ★★ Mixed Feelings | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb. Lots of footwork. Stayed on the face.
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5.8 5.10d | ★ Mad Hatter | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
First lead climb ever - used pre-placed gear and rested on the rope once on the way up. Instead of starting left, I started more to the right (not as far as the far right crack) and worked my way left.
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5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really great climb - once you get the hand holds, they are worth it!
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5.8 | ★ unknown left | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Made it up to the ledge no problem. We left pre-placed gear on the harder part, above the ledge. Clipped into the first bolt and couldn't get to the second after falling.
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Thu 6th Aug 2015 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10d | ★ To Follow the White Rabbit | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Low hard crux between first and second bolts that I skipped one move on. Close to pulling the crux but that Gaston crimp isn't much. Not sure that move belongs on a 10b. Top needs some cleaning but goes quite easily compared to the crux. I'm a call this a 10d unless I missed something.
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5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Classic! Sweet moves though the overhang on nice holds.
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5.10a | ★ unknown right | 20m, 7 | Average | ||||
Easy climbing to the ledge. Top is about a 4 move 10- on delicate thin moves. Very technical.
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5.8 | ★ Mad Hatter | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Ether I missed a bunch, was way off route or this ain't no 8. Awkward start into some 8ish slab. Overhang isn't bad but compressing that top bulge is heinous. Escape left into the jug crack maybe goes 8?
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5.10b | ★★ Fire Starter Direct | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun and wild move though the roof! If the rest of the climb wasn't a walk and the key hold off the overhang wasn't loose this would be classic or better. No way this is a 10d though as it is a decent finger lock though the mantle after a no hands rest into a no hands rest. Maybe 10b if I am generous.
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5.7 | ★★ Mixed Feelings | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I really like this climb. Thought it was an easy 10a when I did it. Not sure I'd go down to a 7 if you stay on the face with the decent jams and thin crimps. Flowed nicely.
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5.5 | ★★ Queen of Hearts | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Solid, fun, good gear. A bit dirty in the back of the cracks.
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Thu 30th Jul 2015 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.8 | ★ unknown left - with , Colin cook | 20m, 7 | |||||
gets pretty hard up at the top after the ledge
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5.8 | ★ unknown left | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty awesome climb. Super super easy at the start (5.3-.4?) but over the big ledge was a surprise. Turned into one solid slab with not very much to get a hold of. Once found though, holds were gold
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5.8 | ★ Mad Hatter | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Decent go. Hard enough if you stay on the bolted route. Huge usable cracks on either side though, good alternatives to have.
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5.8 | ★★ Someone's Overhang | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Hit the deck pretty hard trying to clip the rope at the start on the first attempt. Second attempt was a success with a bit of hanging. Overall good solid climb. Belay station is pretty sketchy though. Anchors are seated behind a ledge so on the rappel down it was a bit rough on the rope if you moved around.
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Mon 27th Jul 2015 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.10c | ★ To Follow the White Rabbit - with , Meghan Beale | 10m, 3 | Average | ||||
Looks easier than it is. Crux is on the bottom third. Couldn't figure out the sequence. Dogged thru it. Rest of the route goes fairly straight forwards. Route needs a good cleaning. Some holds were hard to find due to moss and debris
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