Routes as trad in Northern Ontario

Climb the obvious tower. Solid hand and foot jamming. Some large pieces are handy for protecting the start. Make your way to the first ledge. The cracks thin out and the rock becomes more balanced, use light footwork and refrain from pulling on the smaller blocks. There is a nest of webbing with mallions at the top for rappelling. Be sure to inspect these pieces thoroughly before clipping anything into them.

Climb the obvious crack with the big dog-leg in it about 3/4 of the way up the wall.

2 Pitches overlooking Lake Superior. Follow the crack system to larger belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor. Crux first move on second pitch. Follow crack again to large ledge at top rap from anchors there 60m to bottom.

Climb a corner up to a roof, bypassed on the left with a delicate traverse.

Scramble up into the cave and walk to the back. The climb goes up the crack and slab and out the chimney at the top.

2 bolt anchor with rap-rings at top.

Alternate first pitch.

Follow the most obvious crack straight up to the anchors. Eats gear to 4 inches. The crux is the 10 foot section that can be lay back or jammed.

P1: 5.9, 40m P2: 5.10c, 30m P3: 5.5 30m (or straight up, 5.8 slab, 25m)

P1 5.4, 15m P2 5.8 25m/30m (depending on finish)

Follows a thin, broken crack that angles up and rightwards up the face. Protection is thin at the start, with one in-situ piton, then better farther up.

P1 5.10b 50m P2 5.8, 18m, choss - not recommended.

P1: 5.10b, 35m P2: 5.11a, 40m

From the bolted belay (fat hangars, suitable for lowering), climb up the obvious scrubbed rock above, supplementing the 3 bolts with gear.

Gear to #4 C4

Two bolts to gain a ledge then climb the splitter tips crack to the anchor

Hand to offwidth crack

This beautiful corner can be found between All Dressed and Tips Crack. Start up corner utilizing small crack and jugs to gain a large ledge at base of the corner. Continue up left facing corner with great movement utilizing the odd foot chips on the face and arete. (30 meters) Anchors on the face or pull the lip and rappel down General Anesthesia (Climbers left)

Double rack #0.3 to 0.75, #1, #2. Load up on extra 0.5

Begin up hand crack pulling the small roof, and then continue up hand crack to where it blanks out. Traverse right on good footholds to reach the next crack system. Continue up the tight hand crack to a stance then pull through good holds with small gear to bring you to the top. Rappel back down from the bolted anchors

0.3-0.5, x3-4 0.75, x2 #1-#3, #4 C4, 6-8 alpine draws

P1: 18m, sport, 511b P2: 30m, mixed (bolts & gear), 5.11c.

Start at the lower left portion of the cliff, climb diagonally up and left along the obvious crack towards the start of the large dike running diagonally up and rightwards across the face. Do the rising traverse along the dike, until reaching the overhangs at the right end, then turn left again and climb to the trees. Belay on gear where convenient -- breaking into two or three pitches depending on rope drag.

Gear 6' and up

Found in the corner left of Time Dilation (Between All Dressed and Tips crack). Begin by standing on pedestal and start up finger/tight hand crack pulling small roof to gain a good stance. Some ‘technical’ gear placements get you through the flaring section to a hand crack. Pull the bulge and then the off-width chimney action begins. Rappel down route (30 meters)

0.3-0.75, extra 0.5, #2, 3x #3, #4, 2x #5

On the left side of the wall, look for the left-most white streak and bolts on the slab above below this white streak. Climb directly up, supplementing bolts with gear. Has ring-bolted anchor for belay and top.

Pitch 1: (5.7, 29m). Climb up face past 2 bolts, over a depression, then past another bolt to the anchors. Pitch 2: (5.7, 22m). Continue up past the flake onto the face (bolts and gear) to the top anchors.

P1: 5.10d, 45m P2: 5.10a, 20m P3: 5.8, 30m

Gear to #5, bring a few extra #3 for P1