Routes in Lac Boisseau

Originaly a project in mix that was climbed in trad. The route would need bolt(s) at the end because there is no protection... Open project again!

Folow the micro crack right of the glue-ins of Bricks are Heavy, at the small roof traverse right to the ledge, climb the big left facing diedral, continu to the top vertical wall by the left and exit on the ledge at the v crack (crux). Was climbed before Überhang was bolted.

Location

Between Bricks are Heavy and Brothers in Arms, rap from trees

Protection

full trad, no anchors, micro taper nuts to C4 #5

A nice affordable face on the left side of the Three Sisters’ Wall. Mixed route with 3 bolts, standard rack up to C4 #2, retrobolted rap/belay station.

High and exposed first bolt. Stick clip recommended. Fun route with overhanging action, creative moves and big jugs! 5 of the 7 bolts used to be equipped with permadraws, they've been removed but chains they were attached to remain.

Run-out from last bolt to anchor. Very loose hand sized block at the right just before the anchor. Parasite route of Carmen, uses same anchor and is 4 feet to the left on a 100 m wide wall.

Recommend repelling as rope can get caught in loose block on lowering.

Clip Stick recommandé !

Hard

Start in the small roof and follow the face until you reach a small ledge finish the line in the big crack.

4 bolts and a anchor equipped with rappel ring. Short and nice small roof to pass. The crux is the roof.

Leftmost route in this section. The first half is a good 5.7/5.8 warm-up; the 2nd is a boulder problem at height.

1. 5.8. Climb slab past 6 bolts to an anchor 13m, 6bolts.

2. 5.10c Scramble to the base of the roof, then climb up and over to a second anchor. 13m, 5 bolts.

Watch out for ledges falls

This errosion crack was filled with black earth, it took forever to clean.

Tricky start right underneath the small roof left of the tree. The route is equipped with two relays 1.5m away from each other for a reason: the route is 5.10a, but the last move is a solid 5.10d.

Last climb to the right of the sector, starts right behind the tree very close to the wall. Using the tree is permitted. Slightly run out toward the end. Easiest route of the sector.

Hard, less flashed then Chérubin...

Traverse that starts right of Rêve orange to the belay of Chérubin

Link-up Aborigène to Chérubin

Second route from the left, situated in the center of the sector. The guidebook shows that it shares the anchor with Bruno, it would be more natural to continue straight into the finish of Parcours d'ange. Still, the route lacks of its own character and melts into its neighbours.

3rd route from the left, situated in the center of the sector.

Link-up from Chérubin to Aborigène. The name appeared on the web in 2010