Showing all 21 ascents.
Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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2150
points
| 5.11a 5.12b | ★ Actual Porn Star - with David Gibbs | 3 | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||
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2126
points
| 5.12b | ★ Actual Porn Star | 3 | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Sep 2021 | |||
Projected this a bunch to get the part from bolt 2 to bolt 3.
The undercling hold was cool. |
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2012
points
| 5.10b | ★ No More Mr Nice Guy [variation] - with David Gibbs, Chantalle | 14m, 4 | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Oct 2021 | |||
Narrowly flashed this on lead to set up a toprope.
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1996
points
| 5.10b | ★★ Impatience - with David Gibbs | 15m, 4 | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Sep 2021 | |||
Narrow flash as I was sorta pumped still from working "Actual Porn Star" cool features and moves on an overhang.
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1857
points
| 5.10- | ★★ Sidewinder - with David Gibbs | 16m | Mont Rigaud | ★★★ Classic | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||
Very lovely route that somehow I found pretty easy for the grade (how? no idea). I compressed and de-compressed rather than a deadpoint for the crux. I was very grateful to have the second bolt stick clipped to start because of the low first bolt and unstable moves and clipping position for 2. One of my favs from today.
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1841
points
| 5.10a | ★★ Pourquoi sacrer - with David Gibbs | 14m, 5 | Mont Rigaud | ★★★ Classic | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||
Definitely one of my favs from today. Consistent with a crux in the middle. Great beautiful jug holds overhanging and fun flowy climbing.
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1641
points
| 5.9 | ★★ Smeg Head - with David Gibbs | 13m, 5 | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||
A sweet and fun route. Cool moves, fascinating crux. Nice features. Good to do.
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1641
points
| 5.9 | ★★ Smeghead - alternate finish | 13m, 5 | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||
Flashed this by going 'direct,' through the crimps rather than going rather right of the bolt line. It might have made it harder but made it less nerve-wracking for me on lead. Fun little line, worth having for sure.
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1592
points
| 5.10b | ★ The Crack - with David Gibbs, Chantalle | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | ||||
1521
points
| 5.8 | ★★ 40 Foot Smurf - with David Gibbs | 16m | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||
Oof, somehow I found the move to clip 2 very awkward and challenging for a first climb of the area. The rest of it was cool.
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1521
points
| 5.8 | ★ Plumb Bob - with David Gibbs | 15m, 4 | Mont Rigaud | ★ Good | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||
Worth doing and worth having because it's around other easy sport climbs. Closely bolted for what it is. Has some tricky parts if you climb the 'hard,' parts instead of holds from the route on the right.
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1500
points
| 5.11a | ★ Sputnick - with David Gibbs | 14m | Mont Rigaud | ★ Good | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||
Sorta like a 2 bolt span wonder with easy climbing (still cool) as bookends.
Worked it ground up on lead bolt to bolt. Finally figured out a viable sequence but I didn't want to project it too much in a row due to using a 2 finger pocket as a key hold on slopey feet. |
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1441
points
| 5.8 | ★ Stigmata | 15m, 5 | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||
Fun cool down climb... (And then we did two more lol). A bit thinky at times.
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1107
points
| 5.8 | ★ Brûle pour Ciel - with David Gibbs, Chantalle | 14m | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | |||
1041
points
| 5.6 | ★★ Shish-Kebob - with David Gibbs | 15m, 7 | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Aug 2021 | |||
Lovely ramble up good holds with good feet throughout. Last move to the anchor might be the crux... but you can otherwise tether into the anchor. Clipping holds are super solid right by the bolt. When I realized this I started clipping with the draw at my waist not over my head on a less good (good for a 5.11 climber) hold. Great new climber lead.
Also decent to get pictures for the climbs to the left of it... Especially at sunset! |
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1037
points
| 5.8 | ★ Booty and the Hoe Fish - with David Gibbs, Chantalle | 11m, 3 | Mont Rigaud | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | ||||
707
points
| 5.6 | ★★ (another easyish sport route) - with David Gibbs, Chantalle | 15m | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | |||
637
points
| 5.6 | ★ Bunny Hop - with David Gibbs, Chantalle | 11m, 2 | Mont Rigaud | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Oct 2021 | |||
no one expected me to want to lead this
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532
points
| 5.5 | ★ Pine Sol - with David Gibbs, Chantalle | 11m, 4 | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | |||
402
points
| 5.4 | ★ (new easy sport route 1) - with David Gibbs, Chantalle | 15m | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | |||
202
points
| 5.3 | ★★ Blocky Corner - with David Gibbs, Chantalle | 14m | Mont Rigaud | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Oct 2021 |
Showing all 21 ascents.
While the site says sport, 3 bolts... If you plan on linking to the end of the face finishing on either the left or right to the fixed gear you'll need 4 quickdraws (plus an anchor if you plan on lowering repeatedly, or toproping).
Okay, so first off, I went 'right,' after the second bolts and used the left edge and a left jug to clip bolt 3, and then finished the same as per "Impatience" . On toprope, I later tried the eliminated direct sequence only going right after bolt 2 and couldn't pull the moves quite yet, going from the right small crimp pinch to a left crimpy undercling to eventually (probably?) going to a left undercling with high feet, and twisting to a crimpy vaguely juggy thing.
That'll be a project for another time. Taking it down in a day as I did leads me to suggest 5.11a using that hold set which is less than 2 feet away from the bolts. Lots of 'bang for your buck,' on this climb possible, as it could probably go harder up top with more staying in the 'middle,' and avoiding any jugs...