Ascents in Québec

Better again. Clean to the crux section onto the slab; two falls on that section, then clean to the finish. Another try or two and I might put it together. On TR, that is. Lead... hm... have to think about that, don't have to carry much rack, at least.

Even dirty, and digging stuff out of the crack to place gear and hand jams, this was a good climb. I think, with cleaning, it may be a classic. The upper crack section is the first section of good crack climbing I've found at Lac Sam.

Followed David up this to start the day. More gear keeps presenting itself, which is a good thing. The top dihedral is still a bit run out. WATCH OUT on lowering: there's a notch (at the top of the second big blocky section, I think) that has a nasty tendency to catch the rope and stop it.

This climb has real potential, particularly the crack in the upper half, but it will definitely need some gardening. The rock at the start felt friable: proceed with caution here. After the wide step right, as you start to move up, look out for loose rock in the mini-dihedral to your left. Then just enjoy the heck out of the finger crack that takes you to the top.

Again at the crux. I need to figure out the sequence without falling several times. sigh

Took two tries at the crux to figure it out. It should go clean next time and possibly lead as there is a nice juicy bolt guarding the crux.

Lead it again. Gear is finicky at the start, I used a (little) white tri-cam, and not sure the rock is strong either.

Still contemplating a bolt to protect the opening.

Got the lower sequence pretty smooth and easy, but took about 4 tries at the crux. I think I may have a slightly better sequence now, but will need to try again soonish.

after much debate, bolting the dihedral to make this a safer but mixed route is unnecessary in my opinion - official

Lead it again -- found another couple gear placements in the (previously thought to be) run-out section. Both small (including a white tri-cam) but ok.

I found the lead of the traverse quite committing -- I was in groundfall range at at least one point, and found the gear tricky to find and place. Especially in advance, it was difficult to see where the next piece might be.

Muddy up to the start, and a bit damp, but a fun lead.

Went clean on toprope. Sussesed out the gear. Bottom takes some bomber nuts protecting the hard moves to the first bolt. Bolt guards the crux nicely but the top has nothing but runout. Redpoint is a ways off, but I can see it.

Didn't expect to make it up Security today, but actually did, surprising me.

Some key holds were a bit damp, making this harder than normal.

Easy climb, lots of variations possible. Great to learn how to place a wide variety of gear. In my opinion, you don't need the two blots in the middle (there is very good placement near).

Not horrible this time, but not too bad.

Steep in one bit, for a 5.7.

One fall. I think wrong foot placement. Most of it felt easier than I'm used to it feeling.

One hang at the crux. Then a careless foot placement in the easier section for an unneccessary second fall. Still went smoother than I expected.

Not as smooth as previous. Rock felt more greasy, was a more humid day. Need to really try this on a cool, dry, day.

Got spanked trying to lead this.. got onto TR to figure out the crux moves.

All about the feet - good feet make the difference between impossible and success

If you're in for a little challenge try the direct start, brings it up to about 10d for that little section.

Felt easier than I remembered.