Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.11a | ★★ Ace of Spades | 30m | Canmore | ||
5.10a | ★ Wild Card
Joins up with Long Shot at the third bolt. FA: John Martin, 2006 | 9m, 4 | Canmore | ||
5.11c | ★★ Al on the Run
A real classic. Climb the overhanging arete up the right side of the cave, then up onto the face and to the anchors. FA: P Chedore, 1994 | 8m, 4 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Salvation
The most sort after 12B at Skaha. And for good reason! If the tons of mini cruxes don't pump you out, the final move to clip the anchor surely will! | 30m | Skaha | ||
5.10b | ★ Pump it Hottie, Pump it
Shares a start with 'Revenge for the Fires'. Follows the bolt line on the right after the 2nd bolt. | 12m | Beaver Valley | ||
5.7 | ★ Mr Tree
A juggy start into some crimpy holds. Finished with an easy runout. FA: Tess Egan | 16m, 5 | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★★ XXX
Fifth line FFA: John Lang FA: Jeff Giebelhaus, 2000 | 16m, 6 | Lonely Crag | ||
5.8 | ★★ Slowpoke
Climb up the slab to the right of the brown streak to a high anchor. FA: John Martin, 1998 | 30m, 13 | Canmore | ||
5.9 | ★ Prélude
| 15m, 5 | Kamouraska | ||
5.11c | ★★ Purple People Eater
Old guide book said "A couple finger sized cams might be useful between the first and second bolt". New bolts have been added to fix this issue. Look at how beauty the purple Quartzite is! FA: Greg Golovach, 1997 | 23m, 6 | Lake Louise | ||
5.8 | ★ Crazy Eights | 15m | Calcheak | ||
5.7 | ★★ Au Gré de la Galéjade
Beautiful long climb with a nice variety of moves at the grade. Start at the flake (at about the height of the first bolt). Follow the crack and finish on some moderate but delicate slab towards a bolted anchor with rappel rings. | 30m, 10 | Lac Gervais | ||
5.9 | ★ Drill of a Lifetime
FA: John Martin, 1993 | 17m, 6 | Kananaskis Country | ||
5.8 | ★ In Dog We Trust
FA: Brian Finestone | 15m | Nordic | ||
5.10a | ★★ Cha Cha
Starts from the "A" Dance Ledge (to the left of the gully) which has two bolts + rap rings to belay from. Climb the bolted line about 1 m to the left (leftmost of the three bolted routes). Two rings for lower-off. | 11 | Halton Region | ||
5.9 | ★★ Open Season
Climb the short dihedral to the roof. Escape roof to the right then trend left and up though the black water stain on pocket crimps into easy rails to the anchor. A significantly harder variation goes 11+ if you pull directly though the roof at the first bolt and stay on the black water stain. FA: Jim Clark, 9 Nov 2020 | 4 | Calabogie | ||
5.9 | ★ You Oughtta’ Know
FA: John Martin, 1995 | 22m, 9 | Canmore | ||
5.6 | ★★ (un)Comfortably Numb
From the start of "Welcome to the Machine", which is the right-most route accessible from the safety rope, follow the edge of the wall up and right until you reach a line of bolts proceeding up an angular corner. (If you continue up and right, next line of bolts is "Wish You Were Here", which is significantly harder.) Climb the corner, pulling out left onto the slab at the top. Then angle back right above the corner and up to an anchor. Can top-out, but leaves a bit of an exposed scramble at the top - not recommended. FFA: David Gibbs, 1 Jul 2020 | 15m, 7 | Lac Sam | ||
5.10c | ★★★ Kamikaze
Everyone's favourite warm up. Climbs up the fun jugs, crimps and sidepulls to a short and fun crux up higher. If only it was longer... | 12m, 5 | East Kootenays | ||
5.11a | ★★ Currently Coagulating | 15m | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.7 | ★★ Randy Moss
A few metres left of Slab O'Doom 2.0 start up the a small bulge to holds just left of a small platform. Step left from this onto a slab then up beside the roof of Dave, Dave -- keeping the crack to your left. Pull up into the centre dihedral, climb this, then finish at the Dave anchor. Recleaned and bolted in April 2021. Set: jonathan wilts & Simon McMillan FA: Jonathan Wilts, Kate Hunt & David Gibbs (TR), 2011 FFA: Simon McMillan, Apr 2021 | 25m, 9 | Lac Sam | ||
5.10b | ★★ The Swiftly Tilting Planet
5m left of Perspective. Follow the bolted line up a steep thin slab to rappel anchors. FA: Kieran Andrews | 15m, 5 | Eagle's Nest | ||
5.10a | ★★ Vérités Dérangeantes
L1 5.7 s, 4B 16m Départ sous le toit, à droite de la terrasse avec le grillage. Relais optionnel avant le dièdre. L2 5.9/5.10a s, 10B 22m Grimper le dièdre pour passer le toit par la droite. WOW!! Il est plus beau de combiner les deux longueurs en apportant une longue sangle d’extra pour le premier relais. Après le relais du toit, il existe une dernière petite longueur en 5.8 de 8m avec 3 bolts. Mais celle-ci est moins belle. FA: Jean-Claude Néolet & Martin Perron, 2005 | 38m, 2, 14 | La montagne du Tranchant | ||
5.5 | ★ Trash Pandamonium
Last bolted route on the cliff. | 15m | Halton Region | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Out in the Daytime | 20m, 13 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Blade Runner
FA: Harry Kettman, 1994 | 22m, 10 | Skaha | ||
5.10- | ★ There’s Something About Bob
Left most route on Bob's Wall | 14m | Mont Rigaud | ||
5.9 | ★ Curly
| 18m, 5 | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★ Larry
| 18m, 5 | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★ A Finer Niner
Roadside Right, eighth from left FA: John Martin, 2011 | 16m, 5 | Banff | ||
5.10d | ★★ Falling into Blackness
FA: Robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 1991 | 30m, 11 | Skaha | ||
5.12a | ★★ The Graduate
One of Nemo's best climbs at the grade. This is the bolted line a couple of meters right of Cat's Tail. Climb the face right of the arête, and the face above, until you can get a closer look at the large roof. Take a deep breath. Exit the roof using the obvious crack. Fight the pump to the top. | Halton Region | |||
5.7 | ★ Début d’un temps nouveau
FA: Jul 2021 | 17m, 7 | Panorama - Bowman | ||
5.8 | ★★ Mysophobie
Une belle voie de difficulté continue qui vous amènera au relais sommital. Prière de garder la voie propre. FA: Sébastien Déry, 2023 | 12m, 6 | Lone star | ||
5.10a | ★★ The Missing Link
Climb over a left facing flake and finish along the edge of the roofs. Some down-climbing or traversing may be needed if rappelling/lowering off a 60m rope -- tie a knot in the end. FA: John Martin, 2006 | 28m | Banff | ||
5.9 | ★★ La Purge
Start at the bolts on the bottom and follow the technical line to the top. A nice warm up for harder routes. FA: Alexis Beaudet-Roy & Socrate, Nov 2017 | 25m, 12 | Paroi Elephant | ||
5.10a | ★★ Close the Barn Door
| 4 | Kananaskis Country | ||
5.11a | ★★ American Heavy | 16m, 6 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.7 | ★ Swiss Cheese
A bit shorter than Right Popsicle Twin. This is the first route left of the big corner (the popsicle twins and Vuvuzela are on the wall at climber's right). | 8m, 6 | Halton Region | ||
5.10a | ★★ Solar Flare
FA: Chas Yonge, 2009 | 15m, 5 | Banff | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Liquid Sky
| 15m, 7 | Lake Louise | ||
5.10b | ★ Walk the Line
Climb up a flakey left facing corner. Crimps on top will cause hesitation before cruising to easier moves that lead to a small roof. A larger roof guards the anchor. | 25m, 9 | Banff | ||
5.9 | ★ Valleyview
Great afternoon out. 6 fun pitches. Pitch1 40m 5.6 Pitch2 25m 5.9 Pitch3 25m 5.8 Pitch4 25m 5.9 Pitch5 25m 5.8 Pitch6 50m 5.7 | 190m, 6 | Banff | ||
5.10d | ★★ Swamp Buttress Right | 10m | Canmore | ||
5.7 | ★ Chromosomes X
Départ sur la gauche de la dalle dans le coin pour remonter jusqu’à la vire. Climb up onto some slab and clip a high first bolt, then pull up onto a big ledge. Follow the bolts up some slab, then a dihedral then more slab to the finish. FA: Jean-Claude Néolet & Daniel Brousseau, 2004 | 25m, 8 | La montagne du Tranchant | ||
5.10a | ★★ Bent Jack Crack
Roadside Right, fourth from left. Direct start is fifth from left. Shares start with Cutblock. | 23m, 9 | Banff | ||
5.10c | ★★★ Critical Mass
Everyone knows this one. The best 10C in the Bow Valley. Enjoy varied climbing on jugs, crimps and side pulls to a pumpy finish and a funky move. Absolutely classic FA: John Martin, 1990 | 22m, 7 | Canmore | ||
5.10b | ★★★ Sole Mate
Climb the 'Seal Cove Traverse' out to the notch. 'Sole Mate' starts just right of the belay station and heads up on small cracks and sticky slab. Fun Climb! FA: Jeff Thomson, Glen Payan, Jack Fieldhouse & Shannon Price, 1998 | 20m, 7 | Squamish | ||
5.8/9 | ★ Moominland
pad up the bolted line just right of center. FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996 | 14m, 4 | Squamish | ||
5.11b | ★ Thumbstruck
FA: Dave Jones, 1994 | 25m, 10 | Skaha | ||
5.7 | ★ Hamish's
Far-right side before the gully FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1997 | 14m, 3 | Squamish | ||
5.10a | ★ Hammy Hamster
FA: Gus Alexandropoulos & Chrstine Triggs | 8m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ||
5.7 | ★ Chalk Point Charlie
| 13m, 5 | Squamish | ||
5.10d | ★ Light My Way | 10m, 4 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.10c | ★ 45 and French
FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz | 17m | Beaver Valley | ||
5.9 | ★ Swordfish Trombone
| 10m, 4 | Lake Louise | ||
5.7 | ★ Who's That Change Guy
Located behind the pinnacle inside the "Alley". Starts on the 2m "step". Follow the right set of bolts. FFA: Randy Kielbasiewicz/ Melissa Armstrong, 2013 Set: Randy Kielbasiewicz/ Melissa Armstrong, 2013 | 15m, 10 | Beaver Valley | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Ancient Heart | 20m | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.8 | ★ Professor Ravenwood
Follow the slab directly up using the ledges. Crux is between the first and second bolt. FA: Adrian Wilson, 1994 | 10m, 4 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.11a | ★ Pet Taxi
FA: Marc Bourdon | 10m, 5 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.7 | ★★ L'hypothenuse
The lovely crack that starts right facing and curves to almost vertical along the right side of the front face of the cliff. Bolted recently. | 14m, 8 | Montagne d'Argent | ||
5.7 | ★ Stepladder
Follow the bolts up the slab. FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996 | 12m, 4 | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★ Dan's Magickal Night in Puja
Alternative start may include stemming up the boulder FA: Ken Chase (Equipper), May 2019 | 10m, 5 | Halton Region | ||
5.11a | ★★ Nemesis
Bolted crack line to the right of Nemesis. Moves right at the top. FA: Aldo Brando, 2009 | 9m, 5 | Skaha | ||
5.10b | ★★ Vertebrae
Great climbing on the arete left of Where in the World is Carmen Pelligrino, all bolted until the chains. | 20m | Harrison Bluffs | ||
5.7 | ★★ A17
| 15m, 8 | Kananaskis Country | ||
5.9 | ★ Rough But Well Groomed | 19m, 7 | Canmore | ||
5.11b | ★★ Monument Builder
Petite sortie de toit qui pompe, mais se lever dans le dièdre du haut n’est pas donné non plus. FA: Geoff Creighton, 1992 | 20m, 7 | Mont Baldy | ||
5.10- | ★★ Dogma
Start just left of Karma Points under the small roof. Head up to jug rail and pull directly though the roof onto the slab and up the slab. Finish on Karma Points at end of slab. Dihedral on right is completely out. Contrived eliminate. Has 2-3 great moves though the roof. Jug under roof on left is tempting, loose and not required as pinching the corner above is enough. Shares Karma Points bolts. Suggest pre-cliping second bolt to avoid potentially serious swing. FFA: Jim Clark, 24 Sep 2018 | 13m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.12c | ★★ Sudden Impact - Long
FA: Peter Winter, 2003 Set: Pete Winter, 2004 | 20m, 9 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.9 | ★ Piggy Monster
FA: Dave Jones, 1996 | 24m, 8 | Skaha | ||
5.4 | ★ Minihapa | 95m | Banff | ||
5.11a | ★★ 51 hotdogs
A route that was recommended by Gripped Magazine as a must do! Amazing holds, feet and rests for the majority of the climb. The crux is the exposed bulge with extra pumpy moves, bad feet and a fight for the finish. FA: John Lang, 2006 Set: John Lang, 2006 | 25m, 10 | Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | ||
5.7 | ★ Korn-erred
Both Korn-erred and Nice Bulge share nearly the same start with Korn-erred being the left option that follows a more prominent crack system with a more overhung start. | 15m, 7 | Halton Region | ||
5.9 | ★★ Litige
This climb is above the lower (right) end of the main Grand Canyon wall. From the bottom of the canyon, hike along the small trail rightwards, until it doubles-back (with fixed rope) up some 3rd class slab, as you would if you were going to set top-ropes for the main Grand Canyon walls. As you finish the roped slab, and come out near the top of the first climbs, look right (down into canyon is left) and you will see a bolted anchor, and bolts heading up from there. This is where the climb starts.
Enjoy the view. Descent: rappel the route, but if rappelling on a 60m rope, use the anchors directly below the crack of the 2nd pitch, rather then the anchors used during the ascent (climber's right of the crack/corner). Else, you may run out of rope getting to the base. | 58m, 2, 12 | Montagne d'Argent | ||
5.11a | ★ Stand and Deliver
High first bolt to the left of the two trees. Even throughout for the grade, with multiple different types of cruxy elements. Delicate traverse on small holds, awkward balancy mantel, small crimp face climbing. | 6 | Halton Region | ||
5.10b | ★★ The appmaster
Slab between crags, avoid holding/stepping on them for full grade, I've been told 5.10b although feels more 10a | 20m | Squamish | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Colin de bin
Great and varied climbing. | 23m, 9 | Squamish | ||
5.11c | ★★ Gertrude
FA: Calvin Adams & Colin Moorhead, 2011 | 12m, 3 | Squamish | ||
5.11b | ★★ Wingman
Up the arete. The first climb reached on the approach. FA: Shaun Bent, 2006 | 22m, 7 | Sully's Hangout | ||
5.11b | ★★ Pockets Full of Kryptonite
Great consistent 10c climbing into a great rest spot then a 11b crux to the finish | 18m, 7 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.10b | ★★ Pup Star
FA: Gus Alexandropoulos & Chrstine Triggs | 14m, 7 | Beaver Valley | ||
5.10c | ★★ Centurion
Heads up the longest section of wall in the area. | 170m, 6, 51 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.10b | ★★ A Stab In The Dark
Very cruxy start onto the wall to the first bolt turns into a solid climb with plenty of jugs. FA: Pam Bourdon, 1998 | 10m, 4 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.12a | ★★ Grenouillage
Départ du côté droit du devers. Il est possible de sortir tout droit sur l’arrête, ou sur la face en allant sur la vire à gauche (un peu plus facile). Une 12 assez accessible, et donc assez populaire comme intro au niveau 5.12 | 4 | Mont Baldy | ||
5.10b | ★★ Hypocritical alternative billing | 20m | Skaha | ||
5.12c | ★★ The Fleeing Heifer
Fixed draws | 15m, 7 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.9 | ★★ Trombose
Very nice route with a few rock overs in the beginning and middle. Ends with a slab. | 25m, 8 | Kamouraska | ||
5.10a | ★ Bangers and Mash
Same start as Instant Classic. Goes straight up. | 19m, 5 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.10b | ★★ Foul Language | 12m | Calcheak | ||
5.11b | ★★ Constant Gardener
The next climb right of Lubo. Climb towards the same corner as for Lubo, continuing up the arete and to the anchors. FA: Shaun Bent | 20m, 6 | Sully's Hangout | ||
5.10a | ★★ Instant Classic
Traverses right after first bolt. | 27m, 6 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.7 | ★ Attempted Theft
FA: Mike Ross, 1997 | 18m, 5 | Lonely Crag | ||
5.10a | ★ Black Jack | 10m, 3 | Canmore | ||
5.10a | ★ Noire Gluante
Grimper le dièdre noir. Climb the black-stained dihedral, generally trending leftwards. FA: Socrate Badeau, 2010 | 22m, 1 | La montagne du Tranchant | ||
5.9 | ★ We Meet Again, Fraulein
Face climb along the corner of the boulder. Small ledges up and a layback to finish. FA: Adrian Wilson, 1994 | 10m, 5 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.9 | ★ Borax
Paddock Wall Right, second from left. FA: John Martin, 2010 | 12m, 4 | Banff | ||
5.9 | ★ Into The Light
This arete also known as Arete Dreams is a fun route difficulty depends to what side of the arete your climbing climbers right of the arete is closer to 10a on climbers left 5.9- FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz | Beaver Valley | |||
5.12b | ★★ Plastic Jesus
| 18m | Horne Lake | ||
5.9 | ★★ Skunks do it in Tevas
| 22m | Bruce Peninsula |